weird battery problem

how old is the battery??
if it is over 3 years old, it is most likely shot.
lack of use in a car battery is its #1 enemy.
the plates will corrode and break down.
it will look like it is fully charged, cause when you hook up the charger it
will bridge the gap in the plates, showing a full charge, but once you try
to pull any power out of it, the gap will reopen and it will act like a dead
battery.


put a new battery in it, with either a battery maintainer/trickle charger,
or a solar battery charger on it at all times. this will keep the battery
topped of, and it will last forever.
<myford100 DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:lk5fr3130m36satefb9trq3hhg7kg4hsvi@4ax.com...
> You're saying "charger meter," but that's probably a voltmeter. It
> may be that you're charging it up to its full capacity, but the three
> months without running allowed one or more cells to degrade and
> reduced the full capacity to some laughably small fraction of the
> original.
>
> Can you put a load tester on it? Around here, the parts places, or
> even a WalMart, will test a battery for free. Have you tried putting
> in a known good battery?
>
> Let us know how it comes out.
>
> On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 01:46:56 GMT, "Jim Beaver"
> <jumblejim DeleteThis @prodigy.spam> wrote:
>
>>I've got a '57 Chevy. It's run great -- only 5,200 miles on a new crate
>>engine, everything else new. New battery (well, 5,200 miles on it).
>>Started fine every time for months. THEN I was detained out of town
>>unexpectedly for about three months on a job and wasn't able to start the
>>car. Battery was left connected.
>>
>>Now, when I got back, I expected a dead battery, and sure enough, the car
>>wouldn't start. Jumping it worked fine, many times. But driving it would
>>not apparently charge it up, as it would never start without a jump. So I
>>hooked up a charger to put a slow charge on it, figuring I've got a VERY
>>low
>>battery. But the charger meter indicates there's a full charge in the
>>battery. But still it won't start without a jump.
>>
>>Keep in mind that it worked fine, every time -- battery, starter,
>>recharging
>>system, engine, everything. The ONLY thing that's happened is three
>>months
>>sitting unused.
>>
>>So IF the battery has a full charge and nothing has been changed in regard
>>to all the like-new equipment that worked fine before, what am I missing?
>>It seems to me that every part of the equation is in working condition,
>>yet
>>with no change other than time, it's suddenly not working. And that
>>doesn't
>>make sense to an amateur like me. Any ideas?
>>
>>Jim Beaver
>
 >> Stay informed about: weird battery problem 

My guess would be that one of the plates in the battery has shorted or
buckled. I'd return the battery to the place of purchase and ask them to
check it via load meter. Only other possibility, which I would check first,
is the battery cable connections to both the battery and terminal ends
(solenoid and ground). A little corrosion buildup in the 3 month period
could effectively kill the starting potential while still allowing smaller
current flows.
HTH,
John

"Jim Beaver" <jumblejim DeleteThis @prodigy.spam> wrote in message
news:kmMtj.12163$R84.1997@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...
> I've got a '57 Chevy. It's run great -- only 5,200 miles on a new crate
> engine, everything else new. New battery (well, 5,200 miles on it).
> Started fine every time for months. THEN I was detained out of town
> unexpectedly for about three months on a job and wasn't able to start the
> car. Battery was left connected.
>
> Now, when I got back, I expected a dead battery, and sure enough, the car
> wouldn't start. Jumping it worked fine, many times. But driving it would
> not apparently charge it up, as it would never start without a jump. So I
> hooked up a charger to put a slow charge on it, figuring I've got a VERY
> low battery. But the charger meter indicates there's a full charge in the
> battery. But still it won't start without a jump.
>
> Keep in mind that it worked fine, every time -- battery, starter,
> recharging system, engine, everything. The ONLY thing that's happened is
> three months sitting unused.
>
> So IF the battery has a full charge and nothing has been changed in regard
> to all the like-new equipment that worked fine before, what am I missing?
> It seems to me that every part of the equation is in working condition,
> yet with no change other than time, it's suddenly not working. And that
> doesn't make sense to an amateur like me. Any ideas?
>
> Jim Beaver
 >> Stay informed about: weird battery problem 

dittos to all that has been said.......

I had a quality battery in a seldom-driven car that went dead although
on a trickle charger.......took it in to be tested and shop explained
the "plates degrading and shorting out" when the car sits still.

sounds silly, but I made a "jiggle rack" under my workbench where I keep
batteries.........I've had them last up to 11 years when occasionally
jiggled and kept charged!
 >> Stay informed about: weird battery problem 

Jim

Please excuse my eager attempt to "jump in" and contribute as a former owner
of a automotive servicenter.
My suggestions below are in order as if I were troubleshooting your 57
Chevrolet.
You will need a direct current (dc) multimeter (measures amperes,
resistance, and voltage).
Read about Ohm's Law.
Be prepared to loosen either battery cable with a 1/2 inch /13 mm wrench
and/or battery pliers/vise grips for top post cable connection, a battery
wire brush / or plumbers 5/8 and 3/4 circular wire brushes.
Check alternator drive belt for 1/2 inch deflection.
Baking Soda or Bicarbonate of soda mixed with water to neutralize/clean the
battery cable ends.


You may have:

1) An excessive parasitic/static current draw exceeding 50 to 100 milliamps
dc.
i.e. door left ajar, mercury light switch on either the hood or trunk
lid, hydraulic brake light switch to name a few.
For future reference, disconnect the battery if you anticipate being
away more than a week to week and a half.
Once you get a good key-off static/parasitic dc ammeter reading of for
example: 25 to 35 milliamperes, You can
then calculate the amp/minutes Reserve Capacity and compare to the week
to week and a half limitation of allowing
your battery to remain connected without disconnection.

2) A bad battery.
After you slow or trickle charge the battery, let the battery "cool
down" and "bleed off" itself for any surface
charge for about 72 hours. Then "load" test the battery per
specification.

3) A bad starter.
Check for any bad, corroded, or loose connection. i.e. Check with a
dc multimeter for a voltage drop no more
than .50 volt dc from the positive battery terminal to the battery
side of the solenoid. Likewise, from the Negative
battery terminal to preferably the engine. If you have a voltage drop
exceeding 0.50 volts dc while cranking across
either cable, you probably have a high resistance, loose connection,
corroded terminal(s), cold solder joint from
improper soldering, etc. Voltage and Resistance are directly
proportional,

4) A bad alternator.
i.e. a bad diode trio, a bad diode in the diode bridge rectifier,
I may be correct in stating your Chevy has a dc ammeter dash gauge
which should read a little negative to centered
at a idle to a positive charge a fast idle with the headlights and
heater blower on. This verifies whether a alternator
will maintain the charge to the battery. Remember, the ammeter only
indicates what is left over to charge/maintain
the battery. A generator indicates similar readings. Charging voltage
should be in a range from 13.2 up 14.6 volts
dc.



"Jim Beaver" <jumblejim DeleteThis @prodigy.spam> wrote in message
news:kmMtj.12163$R84.1997@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...
> I've got a '57 Chevy. It's run great -- only 5,200 miles on a new crate
> engine, everything else new. New battery (well, 5,200 miles on it).
> Started fine every time for months. THEN I was detained out of town
> unexpectedly for about three months on a job and wasn't able to start the
> car. Battery was left connected.
>
> Now, when I got back, I expected a dead battery, and sure enough, the car
> wouldn't start. Jumping it worked fine, many times. But driving it would
> not apparently charge it up, as it would never start without a jump. So I
> hooked up a charger to put a slow charge on it, figuring I've got a VERY
> low battery. But the charger meter indicates there's a full charge in the
> battery. But still it won't start without a jump.
>
> Keep in mind that it worked fine, every time -- battery, starter,
> recharging system, engine, everything. The ONLY thing that's happened is
> three months sitting unused.
>
> So IF the battery has a full charge and nothing has been changed in regard
> to all the like-new equipment that worked fine before, what am I missing?
> It seems to me that every part of the equation is in working condition,
> yet with no change other than time, it's suddenly not working. And that
> doesn't make sense to an amateur like me. Any ideas?
>
> Jim Beaver
 >> Stay informed about: weird battery problem 

On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 23:44:57 -0500, "Ken Heslin"
<kenheslin.TakeThisOut@columbus.rr.com> wrote:

>Jim
>
>Please excuse my eager attempt to "jump in" and contribute as a former owner
>of a automotive servicenter.
>My suggestions below are in order as if I were troubleshooting your 57
>Chevrolet.
>You will need a direct current (dc) multimeter (measures amperes,
>resistance, and voltage).
>Read about Ohm's Law.
>Be prepared to loosen either battery cable with a 1/2 inch /13 mm wrench
>and/or battery pliers/vise grips for top post cable connection, a battery
>wire brush / or plumbers 5/8 and 3/4 circular wire brushes.
>Check alternator drive belt for 1/2 inch deflection.
>Baking Soda or Bicarbonate of soda mixed with water to neutralize/clean the
>battery cable ends.
>
Also service the negative battery cable's connection at the
body/frame/block.
>
>You may have:
>
>1) An excessive parasitic/static current draw exceeding 50 to 100 milliamps
>dc.
> i.e. door left ajar, mercury light switch on either the hood or trunk
>lid, hydraulic brake light switch to name a few.
> For future reference, disconnect the battery if you anticipate being
>away more than a week to week and a half.
> Once you get a good key-off static/parasitic dc ammeter reading of for
>example: 25 to 35 milliamperes, You can
> then calculate the amp/minutes Reserve Capacity and compare to the week
>to week and a half limitation of allowing
> your battery to remain connected without disconnection.
>
>2) A bad battery.
> After you slow or trickle charge the battery, let the battery "cool
>down" and "bleed off" itself for any surface
> charge for about 72 hours. Then "load" test the battery per
>specification.
>
>3) A bad starter.
> Check for any bad, corroded, or loose connection. i.e. Check with a
>dc multimeter for a voltage drop no more
> than .50 volt dc from the positive battery terminal to the battery
>side of the solenoid. Likewise, from the Negative
> battery terminal to preferably the engine. If you have a voltage drop
>exceeding 0.50 volts dc while cranking across
> either cable, you probably have a high resistance, loose connection,
>corroded terminal(s), cold solder joint from
> improper soldering, etc. Voltage and Resistance are directly
>proportional,
>
>4) A bad alternator.
> i.e. a bad diode trio, a bad diode in the diode bridge rectifier,
> I may be correct in stating your Chevy has a dc ammeter dash gauge
>which should read a little negative to centered
> at a idle to a positive charge a fast idle with the headlights and
>heater blower on. This verifies whether a alternator
> will maintain the charge to the battery. Remember, the ammeter only
>indicates what is left over to charge/maintain
> the battery. A generator indicates similar readings. Charging voltage
>should be in a range from 13.2 up 14.6 volts
> dc.
>
>
>
>"Jim Beaver" <jumblejim.TakeThisOut@prodigy.spam> wrote in message
>news:kmMtj.12163$R84.1997@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...
>> I've got a '57 Chevy. It's run great -- only 5,200 miles on a new crate
>> engine, everything else new. New battery (well, 5,200 miles on it).
>> Started fine every time for months. THEN I was detained out of town
>> unexpectedly for about three months on a job and wasn't able to start the
>> car. Battery was left connected.
>>
>> Now, when I got back, I expected a dead battery, and sure enough, the car
>> wouldn't start. Jumping it worked fine, many times. But driving it would
>> not apparently charge it up, as it would never start without a jump. So I
>> hooked up a charger to put a slow charge on it, figuring I've got a VERY
>> low battery. But the charger meter indicates there's a full charge in the
>> battery. But still it won't start without a jump.
>>
>> Keep in mind that it worked fine, every time -- battery, starter,
>> recharging system, engine, everything. The ONLY thing that's happened is
>> three months sitting unused.
>>
>> So IF the battery has a full charge and nothing has been changed in regard
>> to all the like-new equipment that worked fine before, what am I missing?
>> It seems to me that every part of the equation is in working condition,
>> yet with no change other than time, it's suddenly not working. And that
>> doesn't make sense to an amateur like me. Any ideas?
>>
>> Jim Beaver
 >> Stay informed about: weird battery problem