typical low oil pressure failure mode - 2.0 engine?

On Jan 1, 10:30 am, Nate Nagel <njna... RemoveThis @roosters.net> wrote:
> Bernd Felsche wrote:
> > Nate Nagel <njna... RemoveThis @roosters.net> wrote:
>
> >>got a friend with an A3 Jetta, 2.0 automatic.  She says that when the
> >>engine gets hot - not overheating, but up to full operating temp -
> >>she'll get a low oil pressure warning.  sounds to me the way she
> >>described it like it really is low oil pressure, as she stated that
> >>she'd had it checked out by a shop and they added "Lucas oil stabilizer"
> >>and pretty much suggested that she run it till it dies and then get a
> >>new/rebuilt engine.
>
> >>My question is, is this something that is likely possible to be fixed by
> >>simply in the car bearing replacement?  I know that G60s had a run of
> >>bad rod bearings and simple replacement would let them live a long,
> >>happy life.  Or is it likely the oil pump?  Or something that can't be
> >>easily fixed, like cam journal/bearing block or lifter bore wear?
>
> >>If there's an economical fix I'd like to recommend it to her, although
> >>my diagnostic resources are limited being several hundred miles away.
>
> > First; check the oil level.
> > Second; check that the correct type of oil and filter are being used.
>
> > Then, check the oil pressure sensors.
>
> > After that; a check of the oil pump itself may be called for.
> > Pulling the sump to do that may indicate other possible causes e.g.
> > a blocked suction screen; damaged baffle(s), etc.
>
> again, I'm about a 4-5 hour drive away from the car, so I'm really just
> trying to see if it's worth advising her to buy a new set of rods and
> mains and maybe an oil pump to see if she can eke a couple more years'
> use out of the car.  I could probably do the swap in an afternoon for
> her (the car doesn't sound like it's worth enough to invest in new
> bolts, although I'd probably buy a new oil pan as well just to save time
> because they're cheap) next time I'm in town if it is worthwhile to do it.
>
> I did tell her she should be using a 40W or preferably 50W oil in the
> car, and I don't have any way of telling if she's getting good filters
> or not (I'm sure she has the oil changed rather than changing it herself.)
>
> I'm ASSuming that all the sensors have been checked or replaced, but I
> don't know where she's been taking the car.  Had I not been visiting
> only for a dark, rainy evening I might have suggested buying a cheap
> mechanical OP gauge and going for a drive...
>
> nate
>
> --
> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I would first off run the car with an oil pressure gauge in place of
the sensor. At least you would know if you were getting false signals.
If, after determining exact value, and it's within spec, I would check
to see if there is a voltage regulator in the dash. On my 16V, there
was a faulty voltage regulator in the dash which kept setting off the
warning light/buzzer. Not sure if the newer ones have that set up, but
it may be worth checking.

Rick
 >> Stay informed about: typical low oil pressure failure mode - 2.0 engine? 

Bernd Felsche wrote:
> Nate Nagel <njnagel.RemoveThis@roosters.net> wrote:
>
>
>>got a friend with an A3 Jetta, 2.0 automatic. She says that when the
>>engine gets hot - not overheating, but up to full operating temp -
>>she'll get a low oil pressure warning. sounds to me the way she
>>described it like it really is low oil pressure, as she stated that
>>she'd had it checked out by a shop and they added "Lucas oil stabilizer"
>>and pretty much suggested that she run it till it dies and then get a
>>new/rebuilt engine.
>
>
>>My question is, is this something that is likely possible to be fixed by
>>simply in the car bearing replacement? I know that G60s had a run of
>>bad rod bearings and simple replacement would let them live a long,
>>happy life. Or is it likely the oil pump? Or something that can't be
>>easily fixed, like cam journal/bearing block or lifter bore wear?
>
>
>>If there's an economical fix I'd like to recommend it to her, although
>>my diagnostic resources are limited being several hundred miles away.
>
>
> First; check the oil level.
> Second; check that the correct type of oil and filter are being used.
>
> Then, check the oil pressure sensors.
>
> After that; a check of the oil pump itself may be called for.
> Pulling the sump to do that may indicate other possible causes e.g.
> a blocked suction screen; damaged baffle(s), etc.

again, I'm about a 4-5 hour drive away from the car, so I'm really just
trying to see if it's worth advising her to buy a new set of rods and
mains and maybe an oil pump to see if she can eke a couple more years'
use out of the car. I could probably do the swap in an afternoon for
her (the car doesn't sound like it's worth enough to invest in new
bolts, although I'd probably buy a new oil pan as well just to save time
because they're cheap) next time I'm in town if it is worthwhile to do it.

I did tell her she should be using a 40W or preferably 50W oil in the
car, and I don't have any way of telling if she's getting good filters
or not (I'm sure she has the oil changed rather than changing it herself.)

I'm ASSuming that all the sensors have been checked or replaced, but I
don't know where she's been taking the car. Had I not been visiting
only for a dark, rainy evening I might have suggested buying a cheap
mechanical OP gauge and going for a drive...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
 >> Stay informed about: typical low oil pressure failure mode - 2.0 engine? 

A few cheap tricks from the old days... asumming the oil pressure is just at
the spec or slightly low. As designed the oil lamp is to come on if oil
pressure is below about 28psi at 2000rpm.

1- the original oil pressure switch on the filter housing is 1.8bar, but one
from the diesel is only 1.4bar.
2- just use the diesel engine switch
3- another trick is to use the oil pump from the G60 Corrado which is a
higher volume unit
4- if you get into replacing the bearings then use a solid lower half in #4
main bearing.


Oh, I forgot to ask, I bet the oil lamp comes on just about 2000rpm.


"Nate Nagel" <njnagel.RemoveThis@roosters.net> wrote in message
news:flb3eu01prv@news2.newsguy.com...
> Hi all,
>
> got a friend with an A3 Jetta, 2.0 automatic. She says that when the
> engine gets hot - not overheating, but up to full operating temp - she'll
> get a low oil pressure warning. sounds to me the way she described it
> like it really is low oil pressure, as she stated that she'd had it
> checked out by a shop and they added "Lucas oil stabilizer" and pretty
> much suggested that she run it till it dies and then get a new/rebuilt
> engine.
>
> My question is, is this something that is likely possible to be fixed by
> simply in the car bearing replacement? I know that G60s had a run of bad
> rod bearings and simple replacement would let them live a long, happy
> life. Or is it likely the oil pump? Or something that can't be easily
> fixed, like cam journal/bearing block or lifter bore wear?
>
> If there's an economical fix I'd like to recommend it to her, although my
> diagnostic resources are limited being several hundred miles away.
>
> nate
>
> --
> replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
> http://members.cox.net/njnagel
 >> Stay informed about: typical low oil pressure failure mode - 2.0 engine? 

That's what I'm talking about... stuff like that... I didn't drive the
car so I don't know what RPM the light came on at. I'll ask next time I
talk to her.

re: G60 oil pump, I thought that was kind of a pricey item? ISTR
someone recommending using a later 2.0 pump in a G60 with a mod to the
shaft as it was "higher volume and cheaper" and this is indeed a later
model 2.0.

This is somewhat relevant to my interests as I still have SWMBO's
Corrado disassembled in the garage

nate

Lost In Space/Woodchuck wrote:
> A few cheap tricks from the old days... asumming the oil pressure is just at
> the spec or slightly low. As designed the oil lamp is to come on if oil
> pressure is below about 28psi at 2000rpm.
>
> 1- the original oil pressure switch on the filter housing is 1.8bar, but one
> from the diesel is only 1.4bar.
> 2- just use the diesel engine switch
> 3- another trick is to use the oil pump from the G60 Corrado which is a
> higher volume unit
> 4- if you get into replacing the bearings then use a solid lower half in #4
> main bearing.
>
>
> Oh, I forgot to ask, I bet the oil lamp comes on just about 2000rpm.
>
>
> "Nate Nagel" <njnagel RemoveThis @roosters.net> wrote in message
> news:flb3eu01prv@news2.newsguy.com...
>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>got a friend with an A3 Jetta, 2.0 automatic. She says that when the
>>engine gets hot - not overheating, but up to full operating temp - she'll
>>get a low oil pressure warning. sounds to me the way she described it
>>like it really is low oil pressure, as she stated that she'd had it
>>checked out by a shop and they added "Lucas oil stabilizer" and pretty
>>much suggested that she run it till it dies and then get a new/rebuilt
>>engine.
>>
>>My question is, is this something that is likely possible to be fixed by
>>simply in the car bearing replacement? I know that G60s had a run of bad
>>rod bearings and simple replacement would let them live a long, happy
>>life. Or is it likely the oil pump? Or something that can't be easily
>>fixed, like cam journal/bearing block or lifter bore wear?
>>
>>If there's an economical fix I'd like to recommend it to her, although my
>>diagnostic resources are limited being several hundred miles away.
>>
>>nate
>>
>>--
>>replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
>>http://members.cox.net/njnagel
>
>
>


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
 >> Stay informed about: typical low oil pressure failure mode - 2.0 engine? 

In article <BQzej.114$0e.48176@news.sisna.com>,
Lost In Space/Woodchuck <webparts.DeleteThis@wildblue.net> wrote:
>A few cheap tricks from the old days... asumming the oil pressure is just at
>the spec or slightly low. As designed the oil lamp is to come on if oil
>pressure is below about 28psi at 2000rpm.
>
>1- the original oil pressure switch on the filter housing is 1.8bar, but one
>from the diesel is only 1.4bar.
>2- just use the diesel engine switch
>3- another trick is to use the oil pump from the G60 Corrado which is a
>higher volume unit
>4- if you get into replacing the bearings then use a solid lower half in #4
>main bearing.
>
>
>Oh, I forgot to ask, I bet the oil lamp comes on just about 2000rpm.


Isn't another trick just using 20W50 synthetic? I did that with my 1994
2.0L eight years ago and I haven't had an oil light blip since.


--
Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
 >> Stay informed about: typical low oil pressure failure mode - 2.0 engine? 

yep, but 50w in the real cold climates makes for a slow crank


"Peter Parker" <nospam DeleteThis @zero.com> wrote in message
news:47810dde_2@nntp2.nac.net...
> In article <BQzej.114$0e.48176@news.sisna.com>,
> Lost In Space/Woodchuck <webparts DeleteThis @wildblue.net> wrote:
>>A few cheap tricks from the old days... asumming the oil pressure is just
>>at
>>the spec or slightly low. As designed the oil lamp is to come on if oil
>>pressure is below about 28psi at 2000rpm.
>>
>>1- the original oil pressure switch on the filter housing is 1.8bar, but
>>one
>>from the diesel is only 1.4bar.
>>2- just use the diesel engine switch
>>3- another trick is to use the oil pump from the G60 Corrado which is a
>>higher volume unit
>>4- if you get into replacing the bearings then use a solid lower half in
>>#4
>>main bearing.
>>
>>
>>Oh, I forgot to ask, I bet the oil lamp comes on just about 2000rpm.
>
>
> Isn't another trick just using 20W50 synthetic? I did that with my 1994
> 2.0L eight years ago and I haven't had an oil light blip since.
>
>
> --
> Jeeps and dubs and everything's nice...
 >> Stay informed about: typical low oil pressure failure mode - 2.0 engine?