More throttle cable info./ hood clearance

My original linkage came off one day while getting on the freeway. It was
raining and I was on the loopy part of the onramp when the pull rod came
off. It was as though you hit the brakes while making a tight turn. The
rear end started to come around and I tried to correct it by adding a
little gas, but to no avail. No linkage, ya know. I tried to correct by
steering into it, but it was too late. The rear kept coming around till I
was pointing in the right direction "again". It was a quick and easy fix,
but that told me then and there I needed to get a reliable throttle on
this car. When I hit the gas and my car doesn't respond with the glorious
smell of burning rubber, that's when I know a fix is in order.
Someone made a comment about not having hood clearance enough to add a
carb spacer. I made two mods at the same time to account for this. When I
added the Edlebrock carb, I needed a spacer. Not a problem, I thought. It
just so happened, I needed motor mounts at the same time. I went to the
NAPA dealer and checked his books. I found a motor mount which is actually
a trans mount for a Volvo. It's about 3/4 inch shorter than a stock Stude
mount. That made up the difference I needed for the hood clearance. I'm
sorry, but this is one modification I didn't make careful notes about. It
was just a rash decision to improve the poor stock linkage setup. I
believe it was a full size V8 car like a Caprice that the cable came off
of. The pedal bolts to the firewall and the cable passes through the
firewall above the pedal. The hole for the cable needs to be sqared so the
plastic cable-stop will fit and snap into place. The cable makes a half
loop and mounts to the carb base with a part of the original mounting
hardware that comes with the cable. I cut most of it away and only used
the corner part of it with the square hole where the other end of the
plastic cable-stop mounts. I pulled the cable tight and drilled a hole in
the carb throttle linkage to mount the cable end. Done. Its not on a show
car, but my daily driver beater hot rod. I just know it works well, and
has never let me down.

But didn't you have problems with the harmonic balance or pulleys coming too
close or even hitting the steering ram or the arm?

Brooksie

"Sals54" <salstude RemoveThis @sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:ae616ea4aa45725a1a6561506408c0f2@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...
> My original linkage came off one day while getting on the freeway. It was
> raining and I was on the loopy part of the onramp when the pull rod came
> off. It was as though you hit the brakes while making a tight turn. The
> rear end started to come around and I tried to correct it by adding a
> little gas, but to no avail. No linkage, ya know. I tried to correct by
> steering into it, but it was too late. The rear kept coming around till I
> was pointing in the right direction "again". It was a quick and easy fix,
> but that told me then and there I needed to get a reliable throttle on
> this car. When I hit the gas and my car doesn't respond with the glorious
> smell of burning rubber, that's when I know a fix is in order.
> Someone made a comment about not having hood clearance enough to add a
> carb spacer. I made two mods at the same time to account for this. When I
> added the Edlebrock carb, I needed a spacer. Not a problem, I thought. It
> just so happened, I needed motor mounts at the same time. I went to the
> NAPA dealer and checked his books. I found a motor mount which is actually
> a trans mount for a Volvo. It's about 3/4 inch shorter than a stock Stude
> mount. That made up the difference I needed for the hood clearance. I'm
> sorry, but this is one modification I didn't make careful notes about. It
> was just a rash decision to improve the poor stock linkage setup. I
> believe it was a full size V8 car like a Caprice that the cable came off
> of. The pedal bolts to the firewall and the cable passes through the
> firewall above the pedal. The hole for the cable needs to be sqared so the
> plastic cable-stop will fit and snap into place. The cable makes a half
> loop and mounts to the carb base with a part of the original mounting
> hardware that comes with the cable. I cut most of it away and only used
> the corner part of it with the square hole where the other end of the
> plastic cable-stop mounts. I pulled the cable tight and drilled a hole in
> the carb throttle linkage to mount the cable end. Done. Its not on a show
> car, but my daily driver beater hot rod. I just know it works well, and
> has never let me down.
>