I've been changing the p.s. reservoir fluid regularly (battery filler -
rubber bulb and long plastic tube make this simple and inexpensive)
with Mobil 1 ATF and a small amount of Lucas power steering fix as
preventative maintenance to avoid this scenario, and so far, not a drop
leaking, but copied the following from a newsgroup some time back -
haven't tried it, but you may find helpful:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Just went through that with my 94 Camry LX sedan. As noted in some
other messages, its a bitch - but it can be done.
First, make sure its actually the PS pump. In my case I was ready to
purchase a rebuilt pump for about $140. Just to make sure, I took a
closer look - it turned out the pressure hose was actually the
problem. It was leaking at about mid-point and dripping down on the
PS pump so it looked like the PS pump was the problem.
OK, so I purchased a 3'd party pressure hose at about $60 (later found
a closer parts house with one for $27 that looked just about as good).
On to the removal.
The only way to get the PS pump out is by bringing it, along with the
pressure hose, down between the axle and steering arm. In my case I
had to bring the return hose down with it also since the clamp was
positioned so I couldn't loosen it.
First steps to do this are remove the tire, the fender screen and the
under-body-cross brace and detach the steering arm at the knuckle. I
found out by breaking a socket that the cross brace is on pretty
solid. You need an air impact wrench. In fact, my 20 year old $29.95
special wasn't up to the job. Off to the store to purchase a newer
"heavy duty" model, advertising 330 ft-lbs of torque. That did the
job. You'll also need either a puller or a "pickle fork" to break
loose the steering arm. (** if he's talking about the tie rod end, I
recently found a puller that worked great for $6.95 at Harbor Freight
called "tie rod end puller") One of those special wrenches made for
working on flare nut connections will also be useful for breaking the
connection on the pressure hose at the top of the fire wall.
Pretty straight forward from there except for the PS pump through
bolt. Its a 14 mm bolt that's almost impossible to reach sitting
there above the pulley. I finally got it by putting my 14 mm impact
socket in my 1/2 inch drive ratchet (my 1/2 inch drive regular socket
set only went down to 15 mm), but only inserting the drive about 1/4
inch. That gave just enough clearance for the ratchet handle to clear
the pulley. I'm sure NAPA or someone sells a slightly longer socket
("deep" socket won't fit - the body panel gets in the way - you need
something between the "deep" socket and a standard socket length) that
would work, but by this time all the stores were closed.
Only other issue is the copper washer on the pressure hose where it
attaches to the PS pump. Toyota and the pros say replace the washer.
My pressure hose didn't come with a washer, however. Toyota wanted to
sell me the washer with a new hose attached for $140. Went to the
local parts store and asked if they has washers and they said "no- the
come with our $27 hose." I said "OK, lets take a look." Brought out
the hose - no washer.
I ended up re-using the old washer. No problem with leakage. I'm not
a pro, but I think the issue is work hardening of the washer through
successive installations. In this case, the hose had never been off
before so it was only the second time the washer had been used and it
probably had enough resilency to seal. If I was a pro I'd probably
know where to get the washers and would consider it cheap insurance
against an irate customer driven re-do so would certainly replace it.
Hope this helps.
Art Coe
TurboJeepR <turboJpr.TakeThisOut@intherough.net> wrote in message
news:<ukpptu89pdl6733qql0g5kc50usv1tuisb.TakeThisOut@4ax.com>...
> '94 Camry LE Wagon 3.0 V6. Pump shaft oil seal is leaking. >> Stay informed about: question re steering pump removal from '95 1MZ-FE engine 
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