How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine?

On Sun, 20 Jan 2008 01:10:23 +0000 (UTC), Kevin
<kevyNOSPAM DeleteThis @netins.net> wrote:

>Forddriver@invalid.com wrote in news:uun4p35klk7av3chhp4psqh935krmangjo@
>4ax.com:
>
>> On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 09:23:22 -0800 (PST), "benteaches@gmail.com"
>> <benteaches DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Have you had a check engine light on the dash lit up?
>>>If not, put a new iac on.
>>>If so, get the codes read and get back to us.
>>>hth,
>>>Ben
>>>>
>>>> When the engine was racing, I pulled the electrical plug from the
>IAC
>>>> and the engine killed. (if that means anything).
>>>>
>>>> BTW: What would be the easiest way to plug thee holes for the test?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again
>>>>
>>
>> I almost always have a check engine light on, but the reason is
>> because the oxygen sensor wires are ripped off. I knew about this, my
>> mechanic said that in order to replace that sensor, I first need to
>> replace the exhaust crossover pipe. That pipe alone is almost $300.
>> It includes the Cat-convertor. This is mostly a farm truck, I am not
>> going to spend a fortune on it, and to replace that exhaust and oxy
>> sensor, I was quoted nearly $1000 (with labor). That's for a truck
>> that cost me $600. My mechanic told me that on a truck as old as
>> mine, running it without that oxy sensor is not really that critical.
>> He said it would likely get a little better gas milage, but said it
>> would take a long time to justify spending $1000.
>>
>> When the weather gets better, I have a friend who has a pipe bender
>> and saaid he could make me a crossover for under $100. That I will
>> do, but he said there wont be any holes in it for oxygen sensor.
>>
>> The truck does run pretty well, except for this racing. It's actually
>> getting dangerous to drive. Yesterday I was on an icy road and the
>> engine surged to 3000 rpm. I had to use the brake the whole time to
>> hold it back.
>>
>> What gets me is that I can be sitting as a stop light. The engine is
>> idling at 600 to 700 RPM (normal). I am not touching the gas pedal or
>> doing anything. Suddenly the engine RPM will increase to somewhere
>> from 2000 to 3000 RPM for no reason, it may shoot up quickly, or may
>> just gradully rise. It will also come back down by itself, either
>> come down partially, or all the way back to the normal idle. In 5
>> minutes of idling, it may do this several times. It does not get this
>> fast idle until it's warmed up. When I first start it, it idles
>> normally.
>>
>> I might have my mechanic put the code tester on it anyhow, if I can
>> not find an actual leak. I can not drive it this way much longer. I
>> have been driving my car the last few days and only using the truck
>> for actual farm work.
>>
>>
>
>It takes almost nothing to drill a hole and add a bung to put the O2
>sensor back on. You are running in limp home mode now, very inefficient
>and poor power. KB

But what good will it do when the pipe is patched together and leaks?

That still dont solve the idle problem which is my #1 concern.

Like I said in another post, come warm weather I am going to do what I
can to go back to a simple carburetor engine without all this modern
garbage which does nothing but make the parts stores wealthy by
selling costly parts, and make the dealers wealthy because people cant
repair their own cars. I have a full size station wagon with
carburetor. It's a Chevy, but the engine is the same size (5 liter).
I get better milage with the carburetor. This fuel injection stuff is
garbage. I have been driving cars with carburetors for about 40 years
and they were easy to fix and dependable. Now I got this complicated
pile of junk with enough unneeded parts to melt down and build a
second vehicle, and it's always acting weird in some manner. The last
feul injected vehicle I owned had the in tank fuel pump die, and would
have cost 5 times what I paid for the car to repair. I junked that
car.

If all this complicated emissions junk actually made a significant
increase in gas milage, and really did reduce pollution at the same
time, I might feel differently about it.

By the way, this truck did NOT have this idle problem when I bought
it, this just started a week or two ago. The O2 sensor has been
broken off since I bought the truck, so that is not the cause of the
idle problem.

<Forddriver RemoveThis @invalid.com> wrote in message news:bs75p3l2p52i0eiuu09dmnrjbtnrg0lvn2@4ax.com...
> How difficult is it to change a Fuel Injected engine to a carburetor.
> The more I mess with this fuel injected engine, the more I hate it.
> Going back to a pre-fuel injection vehicle means getting something
> that's pretty old, and thus rusty and falling apart. Yet, I am
> finding that fuel injection is going to cost me a fortune for repairs.
> The cost of the parts are outrageous. I am a DIY guy, and am finding
> myself spending half my paycheck to pay a mechanic, and they dont
> always solve the problem until several trys. Rather than going back
> to an old rusty vehicle, I'd rather just remove the fuel injection and
> install a carburetor from an older Ford engine. How feasible is this?
>
> Otherwise, it looks like my only other option would be to rebuild and
> older carbureted engine, and change the whole engine, removing all the
> emissions garbage in the process (which is not inspected where I
> live). It used to be so easy to work on the old engines. As long as
> the engine block itself was working, it meant that either the
> carburetor or fuel pump was dead (fuel problem), or it was the coil,
> distributor, points (or module), or spark plugs (ingition problem).
> These days there is so much garbage it seems the mechanics can not fix
> them without numerous trys and spending a fortune.
>
> Thanks
>

Makes me want to opt for a moped when I buy my next vehicle.