How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine?

3 things to check for...
Spark, compression and fuel.
Does it crank normally? Compression is probably OK.
Hold the coil wire 1/2 inch from ground and crank. See a spark? Move
on.
Sray some carb cleaner down the throttle body and crank. If it
tries... fuel problem.
Narrow it down and get back to us.
HTH,
Ben

On Jan 8, 2:32 am, Forddri....RemoveThis@invalid.com wrote:
> I recently bought my first fuel injected vehicle. Its a 1990 Ford
> truck. I have always had carbs in the past. I have not driven this
> truck for a month. It always started just fine, but for some reason
> it wont start. It turns over but wont "pop". I added a can of gas,
> because the gauge was low, but its not out of gas since I added the
> can. My question is how to start a Fuel Injection vehicle that wont
> start. On a carb, I'd spray a little starting fluid, or even pour a
> little gas in the carb, but is that possible on a F.I. engine?
> We have had very cold (zero) weather so that may be part of the
> problem, but it is warmer now and in the mid 30s. I just wanted to
> run it for a bit and also move it before it gets snowed in again.
>
> What do I do. I guess I could use a little overall advice on dealing
> with F.I. engines that wont start. I've dealt with carbs for the past
> 30+ years, but this is new to me.
>
> Thanks
>
> Forddriver
> (no valid email)
 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine? 

On Wed, 9 Jan 2008 14:09:55 -0800 (PST), "benteaches@gmail.com"
<benteaches.RemoveThis@gmail.com> wrote:

>
>3 things to check for...
>Spark, compression and fuel.
>Does it crank normally? Compression is probably OK.
>Hold the coil wire 1/2 inch from ground and crank. See a spark? Move
>on.
>Sray some carb cleaner down the throttle body and crank. If it
>tries... fuel problem.
>Narrow it down and get back to us.
>HTH,
>Ben
>

Thanks for the reply.
I stopped at my mechanic and explained the situation. He asked me
when this happened. I told him. He said "it was really foggy that
morning". Yes, it was. He told me to go home and try it again. I
did, and it started immediately. I called him back and he said that
the fog was so bad that night and morning he could not keep up with
the phone calls. He recommended changing my plug wires and dist. cap,
and said I could bring it in the next day, or do it myself (he knows I
so smaller repairs myself). I plan to change them when weather and my
budget allows.

Now I got another problem. Maybe someone can comment on this.
Except during that fog problem, the truck runs well. However, every
so often, it randomly goes into a very fast idle. I'm talking 2000 to
3500 RPM. This is most annoying if not dangerous. In fact it became
dangerous the other day when I was hauling a load of hay on a wagon,
and it went into this fast idle when I was on an icy gravel road. I
ended up with a jacknifed wagon, and would have gone in the ditch if
not for quick thinking where I shut off the engine and smacked the
wagon against a large snow pile to stop it.

This happens at random. I called my mechanic again. He said that he
was swamped with work, but if I brought it there, he'd show me
something on the engine. He showed me a Idle (something) device on
the throttle part of the intake. He said it's a solenoid and they
often stick. He suggested removing the two screws and wire, and
either replacing it, or spraying PB Blaster into it, and reinstalling
it. I did the PB Blaster thing, and it seemed ok at first, but its
happening again. That thing does not seem stuck. He told me that
there could be other causes, so I hate replacing parts that may not be
bad. What else could be causing this?

I've worked on a lot of cars, but I am new to Fuel Injection. Please
advise !!!!
Note: Tapping on the housing of that thing does not slow the engine
down once it goes into that fast idle. He told me that usually helps.

BTW: If you got here in the middle of this thread, this is a 1990 Ford
F150 4WD pickup, Manual Trans. 302 F.I. engine.


Thanks for all help

>On Jan 8, 2:32 am, Forddri....RemoveThis@invalid.com wrote:
>> I recently bought my first fuel injected vehicle. Its a 1990 Ford
>> truck. I have always had carbs in the past. I have not driven this
>> truck for a month. It always started just fine, but for some reason
>> it wont start. It turns over but wont "pop". I added a can of gas,
>> because the gauge was low, but its not out of gas since I added the
>> can. My question is how to start a Fuel Injection vehicle that wont
>> start. On a carb, I'd spray a little starting fluid, or even pour a
>> little gas in the carb, but is that possible on a F.I. engine?
>> We have had very cold (zero) weather so that may be part of the
>> problem, but it is warmer now and in the mid 30s. I just wanted to
>> run it for a bit and also move it before it gets snowed in again.
>>
>> What do I do. I guess I could use a little overall advice on dealing
>> with F.I. engines that wont start. I've dealt with carbs for the past
>> 30+ years, but this is new to me.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Forddriver
>> (no valid email)
 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine? 

The part your mechanic was referring to is the IAC, Idle Air Controller.
Rather than using an idle speed screw on a carb to adjust the minimum
opening of the throttle plate, the IAC allows extra air into the throttle
body to increase the idle speed, and the computer adds extra fuel thru
the injectors to balance the mixture.

If the IAC is stuck open, the engine will race. If you have a vacuum leak
that's greater than the amount of air the IAC normally allows in, the
engine will race (because the computer will close the IAC completely,
and you still have too much air coming in thru the leak).

On a 1990 truck, you're sure to have brittle or cracked vacuum hoses,
including any larger hoses such as to the PCV valve or to the brake
booster. Check them all, and replace as needed. Spray carb cleaner
or direct propane gas around suspected leaks to see if the idle speeds
up. And replace the IAC, it doesn't work forever.

Bob

<Forddriver.DeleteThis@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:8tvko3lqbjcq92mvgi8ptij72f68j5p5ha@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 9 Jan 2008 14:09:55 -0800 (PST), "benteaches@gmail.com"
> <benteaches.DeleteThis@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>3 things to check for...
>>Spark, compression and fuel.
>>Does it crank normally? Compression is probably OK.
>>Hold the coil wire 1/2 inch from ground and crank. See a spark? Move
>>on.
>>Sray some carb cleaner down the throttle body and crank. If it
>>tries... fuel problem.
>>Narrow it down and get back to us.
>>HTH,
>>Ben
>>
>
> Thanks for the reply.
> I stopped at my mechanic and explained the situation. He asked me
> when this happened. I told him. He said "it was really foggy that
> morning". Yes, it was. He told me to go home and try it again. I
> did, and it started immediately. I called him back and he said that
> the fog was so bad that night and morning he could not keep up with
> the phone calls. He recommended changing my plug wires and dist. cap,
> and said I could bring it in the next day, or do it myself (he knows I
> so smaller repairs myself). I plan to change them when weather and my
> budget allows.
>
> Now I got another problem. Maybe someone can comment on this.
> Except during that fog problem, the truck runs well. However, every
> so often, it randomly goes into a very fast idle. I'm talking 2000 to
> 3500 RPM. This is most annoying if not dangerous. In fact it became
> dangerous the other day when I was hauling a load of hay on a wagon,
> and it went into this fast idle when I was on an icy gravel road. I
> ended up with a jacknifed wagon, and would have gone in the ditch if
> not for quick thinking where I shut off the engine and smacked the
> wagon against a large snow pile to stop it.
>
> This happens at random. I called my mechanic again. He said that he
> was swamped with work, but if I brought it there, he'd show me
> something on the engine. He showed me a Idle (something) device on
> the throttle part of the intake. He said it's a solenoid and they
> often stick. He suggested removing the two screws and wire, and
> either replacing it, or spraying PB Blaster into it, and reinstalling
> it. I did the PB Blaster thing, and it seemed ok at first, but its
> happening again. That thing does not seem stuck. He told me that
> there could be other causes, so I hate replacing parts that may not be
> bad. What else could be causing this?
>
> I've worked on a lot of cars, but I am new to Fuel Injection. Please
> advise !!!!
> Note: Tapping on the housing of that thing does not slow the engine
> down once it goes into that fast idle. He told me that usually helps.
>
> BTW: If you got here in the middle of this thread, this is a 1990 Ford
> F150 4WD pickup, Manual Trans. 302 F.I. engine.
>
>
> Thanks for all help
>
>>On Jan 8, 2:32 am, Forddri....DeleteThis@invalid.com wrote:
>>> I recently bought my first fuel injected vehicle. Its a 1990 Ford
>>> truck. I have always had carbs in the past. I have not driven this
>>> truck for a month. It always started just fine, but for some reason
>>> it wont start. It turns over but wont "pop". I added a can of gas,
>>> because the gauge was low, but its not out of gas since I added the
>>> can. My question is how to start a Fuel Injection vehicle that wont
>>> start. On a carb, I'd spray a little starting fluid, or even pour a
>>> little gas in the carb, but is that possible on a F.I. engine?
>>> We have had very cold (zero) weather so that may be part of the
>>> problem, but it is warmer now and in the mid 30s. I just wanted to
>>> run it for a bit and also move it before it gets snowed in again.
>>>
>>> What do I do. I guess I could use a little overall advice on dealing
>>> with F.I. engines that wont start. I've dealt with carbs for the past
>>> 30+ years, but this is new to me.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Forddriver
>>> (no valid email)
>
 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine? 

Bob Bailin wrote:
> me
> remember my weakness, that I constantly forget. This is as instructive to me
> as my forgotten thought; for I strive only to know my nothingness.
>
> 373. Scepticism.--I shall here write my thoughts without order, and not
> perhaps in unintentional confusion; that is true order, which will always
> indicate my object by its very disorder. I should do too much honour to my
> subject, if I treated it with order, since I want to show that it is
> incapable of it.
>
> 374. What astonishes me most is to see that all the world is not astonished
> at its own weakness. Men act seriously, and each follows his own mode of
> life, not because it is in fact good to follow since it is the custom, but
> as if each man knew certainly where reason and justice are. They find
> themselves continually deceived, and, by a comical humility, think it is
> their own fault and not that of the art which they claim always to possess.
> But it is well there are so many such people in the world, who are not
> sceptics for the glory of scepticism, in order to show that man is quite
> capable of t

Pensee's, Pascal???
 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine? 

Remove the IAC.
plug both holes and start the engine.
If it still races,. you have a vacuum leak.
If it doesnt, replace the iac.
HTH,
Ben


On Jan 13, 1:33 pm, Forddri....TakeThisOut@invalid.com wrote:
> On Wed, 9 Jan 2008 14:09:55 -0800 (PST), "benteac...@gmail.com"
>
> <benteac....TakeThisOut@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >3 things to check for...
> >Spark, compression and fuel.
> >Does it crank normally? Compression is probably OK.
> >Hold the coil wire 1/2 inch from ground and crank. See a spark? Move
> >on.
> >Sray some carb cleaner down the throttle body and crank. If it
> >tries... fuel problem.
> >Narrow it down and get back to us.
> >HTH,
> >Ben
>
> Thanks for the reply.
> I stopped at my mechanic and explained the situation. He asked me
> when this happened. I told him. He said "it was really foggy that
> morning". Yes, it was. He told me to go home and try it again. I
> did, and it started immediately. I called him back and he said that
> the fog was so bad that night and morning he could not keep up with
> the phone calls. He recommended changing my plug wires and dist. cap,
> and said I could bring it in the next day, or do it myself (he knows I
> so smaller repairs myself). I plan to change them when weather and my
> budget allows.
>
> Now I got another problem. Maybe someone can comment on this.
> Except during that fog problem, the truck runs well. However, every
> so often, it randomly goes into a very fast idle. I'm talking 2000 to
> 3500 RPM. This is most annoying if not dangerous. In fact it became
> dangerous the other day when I was hauling a load of hay on a wagon,
> and it went into this fast idle when I was on an icy gravel road. I
> ended up with a jacknifed wagon, and would have gone in the ditch if
> not for quick thinking where I shut off the engine and smacked the
> wagon against a large snow pile to stop it.
>
> This happens at random. I called my mechanic again. He said that he
> was swamped with work, but if I brought it there, he'd show me
> something on the engine. He showed me a Idle (something) device on
> the throttle part of the intake. He said it's a solenoid and they
> often stick. He suggested removing the two screws and wire, and
> either replacing it, or spraying PB Blaster into it, and reinstalling
> it. I did the PB Blaster thing, and it seemed ok at first, but its
> happening again. That thing does not seem stuck. He told me that
> there could be other causes, so I hate replacing parts that may not be
> bad. What else could be causing this?
>
> I've worked on a lot of cars, but I am new to Fuel Injection. Please
> advise !!!!
> Note: Tapping on the housing of that thing does not slow the engine
> down once it goes into that fast idle. He told me that usually helps.
>
> BTW: If you got here in the middle of this thread, this is a 1990 Ford
> F150 4WD pickup, Manual Trans. 302 F.I. engine.
>
> Thanks for all help
>
> >On Jan 8, 2:32 am, Forddri....TakeThisOut@invalid.com wrote:
> >> I recently bought my first fuel injected vehicle. Its a 1990 Ford
> >> truck. I have always had carbs in the past. I have not driven this
> >> truck for a month. It always started just fine, but for some reason
> >> it wont start. It turns over but wont "pop". I added a can of gas,
> >> because the gauge was low, but its not out of gas since I added the
> >> can. My question is how to start a Fuel Injection vehicle that wont
> >> start. On a carb, I'd spray a little starting fluid, or even pour a
> >> little gas in the carb, but is that possible on a F.I. engine?
> >> We have had very cold (zero) weather so that may be part of the
> >> problem, but it is warmer now and in the mid 30s. I just wanted to
> >> run it for a bit and also move it before it gets snowed in again.
>
> >> What do I do. I guess I could use a little overall advice on dealing
> >> with F.I. engines that wont start. I've dealt with carbs for the past
> >> 30+ years, but this is new to me.
>
> >> Thanks
>
> >> Forddriver
> >> (no valid email)
 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine? 

On Tue, 15 Jan 2008 07:58:16 -0800 (PST), "benteaches@gmail.com"
<benteaches RemoveThis @gmail.com> wrote:

>Remove the IAC.
>plug both holes and start the engine.
>If it still races,. you have a vacuum leak.
>If it doesnt, replace the iac.
>HTH,
>Ben
>

Thanks for the info. I have not found any bad vacuum hoses, although
it's bery cold right now so I only looked quickly. I apprecaite this
help because like I said, I hate replacing parts that are not bad.
You said to plug BOTH holes. Where are these two holes? I know there
is one under the IAC, which I saw when I removed it and sprayed it
with PB Blaster. If there is 2 holes under there, I guess I didn't
notice (it was cold that day too, so I was in a hurry).

When the engine was racing, I pulled the electrical plug from the IAC
and the engine killed. (if that means anything).

BTW: What would be the easiest way to plug thee holes for the test?

Thanks again



>
>On Jan 13, 1:33 pm, Forddri... RemoveThis @invalid.com wrote:
>> On Wed, 9 Jan 2008 14:09:55 -0800 (PST), "benteac...@gmail.com"
>>
>> <benteac... RemoveThis @gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> >3 things to check for...
>> >Spark, compression and fuel.
>> >Does it crank normally? Compression is probably OK.
>> >Hold the coil wire 1/2 inch from ground and crank. See a spark? Move
>> >on.
>> >Sray some carb cleaner down the throttle body and crank. If it
>> >tries... fuel problem.
>> >Narrow it down and get back to us.
>> >HTH,
>> >Ben
>>
>> Thanks for the reply.
>> I stopped at my mechanic and explained the situation. He asked me
>> when this happened. I told him. He said "it was really foggy that
>> morning". Yes, it was. He told me to go home and try it again. I
>> did, and it started immediately. I called him back and he said that
>> the fog was so bad that night and morning he could not keep up with
>> the phone calls. He recommended changing my plug wires and dist. cap,
>> and said I could bring it in the next day, or do it myself (he knows I
>> so smaller repairs myself). I plan to change them when weather and my
>> budget allows.
>>
>> Now I got another problem. Maybe someone can comment on this.
>> Except during that fog problem, the truck runs well. However, every
>> so often, it randomly goes into a very fast idle. I'm talking 2000 to
>> 3500 RPM. This is most annoying if not dangerous. In fact it became
>> dangerous the other day when I was hauling a load of hay on a wagon,
>> and it went into this fast idle when I was on an icy gravel road. I
>> ended up with a jacknifed wagon, and would have gone in the ditch if
>> not for quick thinking where I shut off the engine and smacked the
>> wagon against a large snow pile to stop it.
>>
>> This happens at random. I called my mechanic again. He said that he
>> was swamped with work, but if I brought it there, he'd show me
>> something on the engine. He showed me a Idle (something) device on
>> the throttle part of the intake. He said it's a solenoid and they
>> often stick. He suggested removing the two screws and wire, and
>> either replacing it, or spraying PB Blaster into it, and reinstalling
>> it. I did the PB Blaster thing, and it seemed ok at first, but its
>> happening again. That thing does not seem stuck. He told me that
>> there could be other causes, so I hate replacing parts that may not be
>> bad. What else could be causing this?
>>
>> I've worked on a lot of cars, but I am new to Fuel Injection. Please
>> advise !!!!
>> Note: Tapping on the housing of that thing does not slow the engine
>> down once it goes into that fast idle. He told me that usually helps.
>>
>> BTW: If you got here in the middle of this thread, this is a 1990 Ford
>> F150 4WD pickup, Manual Trans. 302 F.I. engine.
>>
>> Thanks for all help
>>
>> >On Jan 8, 2:32 am, Forddri... RemoveThis @invalid.com wrote:
>> >> I recently bought my first fuel injected vehicle. Its a 1990 Ford
>> >> truck. I have always had carbs in the past. I have not driven this
>> >> truck for a month. It always started just fine, but for some reason
>> >> it wont start. It turns over but wont "pop". I added a can of gas,
>> >> because the gauge was low, but its not out of gas since I added the
>> >> can. My question is how to start a Fuel Injection vehicle that wont
>> >> start. On a carb, I'd spray a little starting fluid, or even pour a
>> >> little gas in the carb, but is that possible on a F.I. engine?
>> >> We have had very cold (zero) weather so that may be part of the
>> >> problem, but it is warmer now and in the mid 30s. I just wanted to
>> >> run it for a bit and also move it before it gets snowed in again.
>>
>> >> What do I do. I guess I could use a little overall advice on dealing
>> >> with F.I. engines that wont start. I've dealt with carbs for the past
>> >> 30+ years, but this is new to me.
>>
>> >> Thanks
>>
>> >> Forddriver
>> >> (no valid email)
>
>
>
>
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine? 

Forddriver RemoveThis @invalid.com wrote:
> On Tue, 15 Jan 2008 07:58:16 -0800 (PST), "benteaches@gmail.com"
> <benteaches RemoveThis @gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Remove the IAC.
>> plug both holes and start the engine.
>> If it still races,. you have a vacuum leak.
>> If it doesnt, replace the iac.
>> HTH,
>> Ben
>>
>
> Thanks for the info. I have not found any bad vacuum hoses, although
> it's bery cold right now so I only looked quickly. I apprecaite this
> help because like I said, I hate replacing parts that are not bad.
> You said to plug BOTH holes. Where are these two holes? I know there
> is one under the IAC, which I saw when I removed it and sprayed it
> with PB Blaster. If there is 2 holes under there, I guess I didn't
> notice (it was cold that day too, so I was in a hurry).
>
> When the engine was racing, I pulled the electrical plug from the IAC
> and the engine killed. (if that means anything).

> BTW: What would be the easiest way to plug thee holes for the test?
>
> Thanks again

FWIW, most of the problems I've noticed here (and my experience also)
with IAC have been that the engines won't keep running. Time and again,
cleaning the IAC has cured the problem (and saved some $$$). Check
closely for vacuum leaks.
 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine? 

Have you had a check engine light on the dash lit up?
If not, put a new iac on.
If so, get the codes read and get back to us.
hth,
Ben
>
> When the engine was racing, I pulled the electrical plug from the IAC
> and the engine killed. (if that means anything).
>
> BTW: What would be the easiest way to plug thee holes for the test?
>
> Thanks again
>
 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine? 

On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 09:23:22 -0800 (PST), "benteaches@gmail.com"
<benteaches.TakeThisOut@gmail.com> wrote:

>Have you had a check engine light on the dash lit up?
>If not, put a new iac on.
>If so, get the codes read and get back to us.
>hth,
>Ben
>>
>> When the engine was racing, I pulled the electrical plug from the IAC
>> and the engine killed. (if that means anything).
>>
>> BTW: What would be the easiest way to plug thee holes for the test?
>>
>> Thanks again
>>

I almost always have a check engine light on, but the reason is
because the oxygen sensor wires are ripped off. I knew about this, my
mechanic said that in order to replace that sensor, I first need to
replace the exhaust crossover pipe. That pipe alone is almost $300.
It includes the Cat-convertor. This is mostly a farm truck, I am not
going to spend a fortune on it, and to replace that exhaust and oxy
sensor, I was quoted nearly $1000 (with labor). That's for a truck
that cost me $600. My mechanic told me that on a truck as old as
mine, running it without that oxy sensor is not really that critical.
He said it would likely get a little better gas milage, but said it
would take a long time to justify spending $1000.

When the weather gets better, I have a friend who has a pipe bender
and saaid he could make me a crossover for under $100. That I will
do, but he said there wont be any holes in it for oxygen sensor.

The truck does run pretty well, except for this racing. It's actually
getting dangerous to drive. Yesterday I was on an icy road and the
engine surged to 3000 rpm. I had to use the brake the whole time to
hold it back.

What gets me is that I can be sitting as a stop light. The engine is
idling at 600 to 700 RPM (normal). I am not touching the gas pedal or
doing anything. Suddenly the engine RPM will increase to somewhere
from 2000 to 3000 RPM for no reason, it may shoot up quickly, or may
just gradully rise. It will also come back down by itself, either
come down partially, or all the way back to the normal idle. In 5
minutes of idling, it may do this several times. It does not get this
fast idle until it's warmed up. When I first start it, it idles
normally.

I might have my mechanic put the code tester on it anyhow, if I can
not find an actual leak. I can not drive it this way much longer. I
have been driving my car the last few days and only using the truck
for actual farm work.
 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine? 

On Tue, 15 Jan 2008 20:51:33 GMT, "F.H." <connectu2.RemoveThis@verizon.net>
wrote:

>Forddriver@invalid.com wrote:
>> On Tue, 15 Jan 2008 07:58:16 -0800 (PST), "benteaches@gmail.com"
>> <benteaches.RemoveThis@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Remove the IAC.
>>> plug both holes and start the engine.
>>> If it still races,. you have a vacuum leak.
>>> If it doesnt, replace the iac.
>>> HTH,
>>> Ben
>>>
>>
>> Thanks for the info. I have not found any bad vacuum hoses, although
>> it's bery cold right now so I only looked quickly. I apprecaite this
>> help because like I said, I hate replacing parts that are not bad.
>> You said to plug BOTH holes. Where are these two holes? I know there
>> is one under the IAC, which I saw when I removed it and sprayed it
>> with PB Blaster. If there is 2 holes under there, I guess I didn't
>> notice (it was cold that day too, so I was in a hurry).
>>
>> When the engine was racing, I pulled the electrical plug from the IAC
>> and the engine killed. (if that means anything).
>
>> BTW: What would be the easiest way to plug thee holes for the test?
>>
>> Thanks again
>
>FWIW, most of the problems I've noticed here (and my experience also)
>with IAC have been that the engines won't keep running. Time and again,
>cleaning the IAC has cured the problem (and saved some $$$). Check
>closely for vacuum leaks.

What method did you use to clean the IAC?
I am not going to replace it unless absolutely necessary.
Do you know what they cost? I was quoted $110.00
I almost passed out....
 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine? 

How difficult is it to change a Fuel Injected engine to a carburetor.
The more I mess with this fuel injected engine, the more I hate it.
Going back to a pre-fuel injection vehicle means getting something
that's pretty old, and thus rusty and falling apart. Yet, I am
finding that fuel injection is going to cost me a fortune for repairs.
The cost of the parts are outrageous. I am a DIY guy, and am finding
myself spending half my paycheck to pay a mechanic, and they dont
always solve the problem until several trys. Rather than going back
to an old rusty vehicle, I'd rather just remove the fuel injection and
install a carburetor from an older Ford engine. How feasible is this?

Otherwise, it looks like my only other option would be to rebuild and
older carbureted engine, and change the whole engine, removing all the
emissions garbage in the process (which is not inspected where I
live). It used to be so easy to work on the old engines. As long as
the engine block itself was working, it meant that either the
carburetor or fuel pump was dead (fuel problem), or it was the coil,
distributor, points (or module), or spark plugs (ingition problem).
These days there is so much garbage it seems the mechanics can not fix
them without numerous trys and spending a fortune.

Thanks
 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine? 

Forddriver DeleteThis @invalid.com wrote in news:uun4p35klk7av3chhp4psqh935krmangjo@
4ax.com:

> On Wed, 16 Jan 2008 09:23:22 -0800 (PST), "benteaches@gmail.com"
> <benteaches DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>Have you had a check engine light on the dash lit up?
>>If not, put a new iac on.
>>If so, get the codes read and get back to us.
>>hth,
>>Ben
>>>
>>> When the engine was racing, I pulled the electrical plug from the
IAC
>>> and the engine killed. (if that means anything).
>>>
>>> BTW: What would be the easiest way to plug thee holes for the test?
>>>
>>> Thanks again
>>>
>
> I almost always have a check engine light on, but the reason is
> because the oxygen sensor wires are ripped off. I knew about this, my
> mechanic said that in order to replace that sensor, I first need to
> replace the exhaust crossover pipe. That pipe alone is almost $300.
> It includes the Cat-convertor. This is mostly a farm truck, I am not
> going to spend a fortune on it, and to replace that exhaust and oxy
> sensor, I was quoted nearly $1000 (with labor). That's for a truck
> that cost me $600. My mechanic told me that on a truck as old as
> mine, running it without that oxy sensor is not really that critical.
> He said it would likely get a little better gas milage, but said it
> would take a long time to justify spending $1000.
>
> When the weather gets better, I have a friend who has a pipe bender
> and saaid he could make me a crossover for under $100. That I will
> do, but he said there wont be any holes in it for oxygen sensor.
>
> The truck does run pretty well, except for this racing. It's actually
> getting dangerous to drive. Yesterday I was on an icy road and the
> engine surged to 3000 rpm. I had to use the brake the whole time to
> hold it back.
>
> What gets me is that I can be sitting as a stop light. The engine is
> idling at 600 to 700 RPM (normal). I am not touching the gas pedal or
> doing anything. Suddenly the engine RPM will increase to somewhere
> from 2000 to 3000 RPM for no reason, it may shoot up quickly, or may
> just gradully rise. It will also come back down by itself, either
> come down partially, or all the way back to the normal idle. In 5
> minutes of idling, it may do this several times. It does not get this
> fast idle until it's warmed up. When I first start it, it idles
> normally.
>
> I might have my mechanic put the code tester on it anyhow, if I can
> not find an actual leak. I can not drive it this way much longer. I
> have been driving my car the last few days and only using the truck
> for actual farm work.
>
>

It takes almost nothing to drill a hole and add a bung to put the O2
sensor back on. You are running in limp home mode now, very inefficient
and poor power. KB

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 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine? 

In article <bs75p3l2p52i0eiuu09dmnrjbtnrg0lvn2.TakeThisOut@4ax.com>,
<Forddriver.TakeThisOut@invalid.com> wrote:
> How difficult is it to change a Fuel Injected engine to a carburetor.
> The more I mess with this fuel injected engine, the more I hate it.
Not impossible, whether the effort is worth it is up to you, It would
depend on how much you'd need to fabricate.

I'd suggest you see if you can get on some decent tuning software/ scanner
for your motor and get onto some good tuning forums.
A good scanner will tell you a lot about your vehicle's state.

HTH

--
Terminal_Crazy

Mitch - 1995 Z28 LT1 M6 terminal_crazy.TakeThisOut@sand-hill.freeserve.co.uk
Lancashire England http://www.sand-hill.freeserve.co.uk/terminal_crazy/
 >> Stay informed about: How to start a stubborn Fuel Injected engine?