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Next: 1994 Mustang starting trouble
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External
Since: Apr 23, 2007
Posts: 3
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(Msg. 1) Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 10:25 pm
Post subject: a/c repair babble
Archived from groups: rec>autos>tech, others (more info?)
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Hello proud DIYs. I have a couple of questions. Take a stab at any or
all.
1) My a/c compressor (FS-10) just froze up on my '95 Bronco. I bought
a "new" one from Pep Boys for $210, with clutch. I also got a quote
from Carquest for a new one for $315. I don't remember if that one
included a clutch, but I think it did. I asked both places if these
were new or reman; both said definitely new, I asked but neither store
offered remanufactured items, nor offered core return. Today, I'm
talking with an a/c repair shop. He refused to believe I got a new
compressor with clutch for $210. So now I'm wondering; can large
places like Carquest and Pep Boys get away with callling reman'd parts
"new"? Is there a difference between "remanufactured" and "rebuilt"?
Can I actually expect to buy a truly new a/c compressor, with clutch,
for $210? The part comes with a 1 year warranty and does not contain
oil, but appears to be sealed.
2) For the real a/c geeks: I have plans to replace the clutch fan in
the Bronco with a 2-speed electric fan from a '90ish Ford Taurus. I
understand from what I'm reading that too few cfm through the
condenser will cause problems (which is probably part of what happened
to the current compressor), so I want to be sure I'm putting enough
fan on it, and may want to use the low speed if possible. Is there any
way to come by that minimum cfm number? I'm assuming there's a
relationship between physical volume of refrigerant in the system,
high side pressure, and condenser air throughput, such that any two
could be used to derive the third, but that's me just trying to sound
smart.
3) Does anyone know cfm specs for the radiator fan from late '80s-
early '90s 3.8 liter Ford Taurus?
Thanks for the help.
Matt |
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External
Since: Feb 21, 2005
Posts: 211
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(Msg. 2) Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:21 am
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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External
Since: Nov 28, 2004
Posts: 103
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(Msg. 3) Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:07 pm
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On 23 Apr 2007 22:25:16 -0700, Matt <under4pines DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote:
>Can I actually expect to buy a truly new a/c compressor, with clutch,
>for $210? The part comes with a 1 year warranty and does not contain
>oil, but appears to be sealed.
The compressor probably is a complete new unit. The problem is it
isn't a complete new OEM unit, it is a new China Cheapo that isn't
made of the best stuff or to the tightest tolerances. If this were
an easy to replace alternator I wouldn't really care but on an A/C
compressor you are going to have to do an awful lot of work for
something that might croak in a month. Hopefully more folks will pipe
up and give you their experiences.
>
>2) For the real a/c geeks: I have plans to replace the clutch fan in
>the Bronco with a 2-speed electric fan from a '90ish Ford Taurus. I
>understand from what I'm reading that too few cfm through the
>condenser will cause problems (which is probably part of what happened
>to the current compressor), so I want to be sure I'm putting enough
>fan on it, and may want to use the low speed if possible. Is there any
>way to come by that minimum cfm number? I'm assuming there's a
>relationship between physical volume of refrigerant in the system,
>high side pressure, and condenser air throughput, such that any two
>could be used to derive the third, but that's me just trying to sound
>smart.
I can't see you getting away with low speed unless you have some
pretty good engineering skills. You want to keep the CFM up to keep
the temp down in the condenser. As the temp in the condenser rises
the pressure rises and you loose cooling effectiveness. If you are
handy with wiring and relays you could rig up a system to kick the fan
up on high when the high pressure reaches X psi using a couple of
relays and a high pressure switch (much like the low pressure switch
that currently cuts the compressor off if the pressure drops below a
certain psi).
>3) Does anyone know cfm specs for the radiator fan from late '80s-
>early '90s 3.8 liter Ford Taurus?
>
No idea on even an estimated number or where to find it.
Steve B. >> Stay informed about: a/c repair babble |
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External
Since: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 507
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(Msg. 4) Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 2:07 pm
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Steve B." <none RemoveThis @none.com> wrote in message
news:pahs23dqlg8uj7ub8da14phqp6rt6spp2i@4ax.com...
> On 23 Apr 2007 22:25:16 -0700, Matt <under4pines RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >Can I actually expect to buy a truly new a/c compressor, with clutch,
> >for $210? The part comes with a 1 year warranty and does not contain
> >oil, but appears to be sealed.
>
> The compressor probably is a complete new unit. The problem is it
> isn't a complete new OEM unit, it is a new China Cheapo that isn't
> made of the best stuff or to the tightest tolerances. If this were
> an easy to replace alternator I wouldn't really care but on an A/C
> compressor you are going to have to do an awful lot of work for
> something that might croak in a month. Hopefully more folks will pipe
> up and give you their experiences.
>
> >
> >2) For the real a/c geeks: I have plans to replace the clutch fan in
> >the Bronco with a 2-speed electric fan from a '90ish Ford Taurus. I
> >understand from what I'm reading that too few cfm through the
> >condenser will cause problems (which is probably part of what happened
> >to the current compressor), so I want to be sure I'm putting enough
> >fan on it, and may want to use the low speed if possible. Is there any
> >way to come by that minimum cfm number? I'm assuming there's a
> >relationship between physical volume of refrigerant in the system,
> >high side pressure, and condenser air throughput, such that any two
> >could be used to derive the third, but that's me just trying to sound
> >smart.
>
> I can't see you getting away with low speed unless you have some
> pretty good engineering skills. You want to keep the CFM up to keep
> the temp down in the condenser. As the temp in the condenser rises
> the pressure rises and you loose cooling effectiveness. If you are
> handy with wiring and relays you could rig up a system to kick the fan
> up on high when the high pressure reaches X psi using a couple of
> relays and a high pressure switch (much like the low pressure switch
> that currently cuts the compressor off if the pressure drops below a
> certain psi).
>
>
> >3) Does anyone know cfm specs for the radiator fan from late '80s-
> >early '90s 3.8 liter Ford Taurus?
> >
>
> No idea on even an estimated number or where to find it.
>
> Steve B.
Stick with the stock fan. If the clutch is bad replace it with a good one,
not an el cheapo. You'll be a lot better off.
Al >> Stay informed about: a/c repair babble |
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External
Since: Aug 11, 2004
Posts: 659
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(Msg. 5) Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:55 pm
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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">>
>> >
>> >2) For the real a/c geeks: I have plans to replace the clutch fan in
>> >the Bronco with a 2-speed electric fan from a '90ish Ford Taurus. I
>> >understand from what I'm reading that too few cfm through the
>> >condenser will cause problems (which is probably part of what happened
>> >to the current compressor), so I want to be sure I'm putting enough
>> >fan on it, and may want to use the low speed if possible. Is there any
>> >way to come by that minimum cfm number? I'm assuming there's a
>> >relationship between physical volume of refrigerant in the system,
>> >high side pressure, and condenser air throughput, such that any two
>> >could be used to derive the third, but that's me just trying to sound
>> >smart.
>>
The two speed electric fans run on high speed anytime the AC is running.
I will second Big Al's advice, if in doubt, replace the fan clutch with a
high quality
brand heavy duty replacement. If more than 50,000 miles on the fan clutch
replace it.
Whitelightning >> Stay informed about: a/c repair babble |
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External
Since: Feb 20, 2006
Posts: 55
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(Msg. 6) Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:45 am
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Whitelightning" <white.lightning2.TakeThisOut@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:FitXh.2081$1M1.2063@trnddc01...
>
> The two speed electric fans run on high speed anytime the AC is running.
> I will second Big Al's advice, if in doubt, replace the fan clutch with a
> high quality
> brand heavy duty replacement. If more than 50,000 miles on the fan clutch
> replace it.
>
>
> Whitelightning
>
>
FWIW to the OP:
I have a '55 Ford F-100 pickup. Actually, it's a '55 cab and bed
transplanted onto a '92 F-150 frame. The engine is a 302 V8 coupled to a C4
transmission. The cooling system consists of the radiator from the '92
F-150, but an electric fan was installed replacing the stock fan.
The temperature probe is installed on the upper section of the radiator.
A "Vintage Air" air conditioning/heating system is also installed in the
truck. The A/C has worked fine on it with the electric fan system.
Obviously, when moving along the fan does not run, but at a traffic light or
idling when warmed up, the fan cycles on and off and I've never noticed a
major difference in the temperature of the A/C air flow, even in 90 degree
summer days.
I am not suggesting this is an ideal setup or even correct, but it works.
RCE >> Stay informed about: a/c repair babble |
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External
Since: Feb 20, 2006
Posts: 55
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(Msg. 7) Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:48 am
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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External
Since: Apr 25, 2007
Posts: 1
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(Msg. 8) Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:24 am
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On Apr 23, 10:25?pm, Matt <under4pi... RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hello proud DIYs. I have a couple of questions. Take a stab at any or
> all.
>
> 1) My a/c compressor (FS-10) just froze up on my '95 Bronco. I bought
> a "new" one from Pep Boys for $210, with clutch. I also got a quote
> from Carquest for a new one for $315. I don't remember if that one
> included a clutch, but I think it did. I asked both places if these
> were new or reman; both said definitely new, I asked but neither store
> offered remanufactured items, nor offered core return. Today, I'm
> talking with an a/c repair shop. He refused to believe I got a new
> compressor with clutch for $210. So now I'm wondering; can large
> places like Carquest and Pep Boys get away with callling reman'd parts
> "new"? Is there a difference between "remanufactured" and "rebuilt"?
> Can I actually expect to buy a truly new a/c compressor, with clutch,
> for $210? The part comes with a 1 year warranty and does not contain
> oil, but appears to be sealed.
>
> 2) For the real a/c geeks: I have plans to replace the clutch fan in
> the Bronco with a 2-speed electric fan from a '90ish Ford Taurus. I
> understand from what I'm reading that too few cfm through the
> condenser will cause problems (which is probably part of what happened
> to the current compressor), so I want to be sure I'm putting enough
> fan on it, and may want to use the low speed if possible. Is there any
> way to come by that minimum cfm number? I'm assuming there's a
> relationship between physical volume of refrigerant in the system,
> high side pressure, and condenser air throughput, such that any two
> could be used to derive the third, but that's me just trying to sound
> smart.
>
> 3) Does anyone know cfm specs for the radiator fan from late '80s-
> early '90s 3.8 liter Ford Taurus?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Matt
The air conditioning on my 2000 park avenue blows cool air on the
passengers side but uncooled air on the drivers side. What is the
problem and how can it be fixed?
Ed >> Stay informed about: a/c repair babble |
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External
Since: May 10, 2005
Posts: 476
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(Msg. 9) Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:21 am
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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<Badermath.TakeThisOut@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1177514660.583435.177680@t39g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
> On Apr 23, 10:25?pm, Matt <under4pi....TakeThisOut@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Hello proud DIYs. I have a couple of questions. Take a stab at any or
> > all.
> >
> > 1) My a/c compressor (FS-10) just froze up on my '95 Bronco. I bought
> > a "new" one from Pep Boys for $210, with clutch. I also got a quote
> > from Carquest for a new one for $315. I don't remember if that one
> > included a clutch, but I think it did. I asked both places if these
> > were new or reman; both said definitely new, I asked but neither store
> > offered remanufactured items, nor offered core return. Today, I'm
> > talking with an a/c repair shop. He refused to believe I got a new
> > compressor with clutch for $210. So now I'm wondering; can large
> > places like Carquest and Pep Boys get away with callling reman'd parts
> > "new"? Is there a difference between "remanufactured" and "rebuilt"?
> > Can I actually expect to buy a truly new a/c compressor, with clutch,
> > for $210? The part comes with a 1 year warranty and does not contain
> > oil, but appears to be sealed.
Go to ackits.com and have a look. An FS10 replacement compressor, new, is
about
$215
I used one of their compressors on my Reatta upgrade (134a) and it worked
well,
very quiet. I believe that these compressors may well be better than the GM
OEM units. >> Stay informed about: a/c repair babble |
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External
Since: Apr 03, 2004
Posts: 329
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(Msg. 10) Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:21 pm
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Matt" <under4pines DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1177392316.238823.182040@n35g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
> Hello proud DIYs. I have a couple of questions. Take a stab at any or
> all.
>
> 1) My a/c compressor (FS-10) just froze up on my '95 Bronco. I bought
> a "new" one from Pep Boys for $210, with clutch. I also got a quote
> from Carquest for a new one for $315. I don't remember if that one
> included a clutch, but I think it did. I asked both places if these
> were new or reman; both said definitely new, I asked but neither store
> offered remanufactured items, nor offered core return. Today, I'm
> talking with an a/c repair shop. He refused to believe I got a new
> compressor with clutch for $210. So now I'm wondering; can large
> places like Carquest and Pep Boys get away with callling reman'd parts
> "new"? Is there a difference between "remanufactured" and "rebuilt"?
> Can I actually expect to buy a truly new a/c compressor, with clutch,
> for $210? The part comes with a 1 year warranty and does not contain
> oil, but appears to be sealed.
Ooooookay. Personally, I prefer acsource.com and acsource.net for my stuff.
I am a combination DIY/licensed A/C tech. I don't actually do A/C work for
a living. Acsource.net has $227 for the FS10 new. I just bought one, it
was new. It's on my truck right now. I cannot explain the behavior of the
guy at the shop. The person you're talking to shouldn't be overpaying
ridiculously if he's in the business. He ought to know better. I have also
used the 4 seasons brand from Autozone, and those are also new, but it's a
lot better to get the real name brand stuff when you can for $200. Here's
what they carry NEW:
"For new compressors we have Delco, Visteon, MoPar, Ford, GM, Chrysler,
Nippondenso, Sanden, Nihon, Calsonic, Zexel, Diesel Kiki " They're not
trying to fool anybody.
> 2) For the real a/c geeks: I have plans to replace the clutch fan in
> the Bronco with a 2-speed electric fan from a '90ish Ford Taurus. I
> understand from what I'm reading that too few cfm through the
> condenser will cause problems (which is probably part of what happened
> to the current compressor), so I want to be sure I'm putting enough
> fan on it, and may want to use the low speed if possible. Is there any
> way to come by that minimum cfm number? I'm assuming there's a
> relationship between physical volume of refrigerant in the system,
> high side pressure, and condenser air throughput, such that any two
> could be used to derive the third, but that's me just trying to sound
> smart.
>
In this particular application, your compressor dies of "Black Death", which
plugs the restriction orifice. Air isn't the problem. Air flow certainly
does help keep condensing pressure down, and it really would help the
compressor have less of a load on its parts. Will it last longer? It can't
hurt, that's all you can say. >> Stay informed about: a/c repair babble |
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External
Since: Apr 03, 2004
Posts: 329
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(Msg. 11) Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:29 pm
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Marsh Monster" <MarshMonster2624 DeleteThis @aol.com> wrote in message
news:1177395775.802985.128620@t38g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
> ========
> ========
> Matt <under4pi... DeleteThis @yahoo.com>asked in message:
>> Hello proud DIYs. I have a couple of questions. Take a stab at any or
>> all.
>>
>> 1) My a/c compressor (FS-10) just froze up on my '95 Bronco. I bought
>> a "new" one from Pep Boys for $210, with clutch. I also got a quote
>> from Carquest for a new one for $315. I don't remember if that one
>> included a clutch, but I think it did. I asked both places if these
>> were new or reman; both said definitely new, I asked but neither store
>> offered remanufactured items, nor offered core return. Today, I'm
>> talking with an a/c repair shop. He refused to believe I got a new
>> compressor with clutch for $210. So now I'm wondering; can large
>> places like Carquest and Pep Boys get away with callling reman'd parts
>> "new"? Is there a difference between "remanufactured" and "rebuilt"?
>> Can I actually expect to buy a truly new a/c compressor, with clutch,
>> for $210? The part comes with a 1 year warranty and does not contain
>> oil, but appears to be sealed.
Check this out: One store that carries reman, China, and OEM. Look at the
price difference! They're all 3 the same!
http://www.discountacparts.com/addtocart~Year~1994~make~Ford~model~PIC...rt~60-0
That's just creepy. >> Stay informed about: a/c repair babble |
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External
Since: Mar 16, 2007
Posts: 273
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(Msg. 12) Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:11 pm
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Imported from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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External
Since: Feb 20, 2006
Posts: 55
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(Msg. 13) Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 7:47 am
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Ashton Crusher" <demi.TakeThisOut@moore.net> wrote in message
news:6ig033576iq472cb80olsdu74ithbglbsc@4ax.com...
> On 25 Apr 2007 08:24:20 -0700, Badermath.TakeThisOut@aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>>The air conditioning on my 2000 park avenue blows cool air on the
>>passengers side but uncooled air on the drivers side. What is the
>>problem and how can it be fixed?
>>Ed
>
> could be there is a blend door stuck somewhere. I've also seen this
> happen when a system is low on freon and only part of the evap cools
> down so only one side of the air stream gets cooled off.
We had this happen on a BMW X5 my wife had. It was the air management
(blend doors) system that was bad. It would have been cheaper to repair if
the compressor had been bad.
RCE >> Stay informed about: a/c repair babble |
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External
Since: Jan 14, 2004
Posts: 615
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(Msg. 14) Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 9:26 am
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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External
Since: Aug 16, 2005
Posts: 352
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(Msg. 15) Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 9:55 am
Post subject: Re: a/c repair babble [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On 25 Apr 2007 08:24:20 -0700, Badermath DeleteThis @aol.com wrote:
>On Apr 23, 10:25?pm, Matt <under4pi... DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Hello proud DIYs. I have a couple of questions. Take a stab at any or
>> all.
>>
>> 1) My a/c compressor (FS-10) just froze up on my '95 Bronco. I bought
>> a "new" one from Pep Boys for $210, with clutch. I also got a quote
>> from Carquest for a new one for $315. I don't remember if that one
>> included a clutch, but I think it did. I asked both places if these
>> were new or reman; both said definitely new, I asked but neither store
>> offered remanufactured items, nor offered core return. Today, I'm
>> talking with an a/c repair shop. He refused to believe I got a new
>> compressor with clutch for $210. So now I'm wondering; can large
>> places like Carquest and Pep Boys get away with callling reman'd parts
>> "new"? Is there a difference between "remanufactured" and "rebuilt"?
>> Can I actually expect to buy a truly new a/c compressor, with clutch,
>> for $210? The part comes with a 1 year warranty and does not contain
>> oil, but appears to be sealed.
>>
>> 2) For the real a/c geeks: I have plans to replace the clutch fan in
>> the Bronco with a 2-speed electric fan from a '90ish Ford Taurus. I
>> understand from what I'm reading that too few cfm through the
>> condenser will cause problems (which is probably part of what happened
>> to the current compressor), so I want to be sure I'm putting enough
>> fan on it, and may want to use the low speed if possible. Is there any
>> way to come by that minimum cfm number? I'm assuming there's a
>> relationship between physical volume of refrigerant in the system,
>> high side pressure, and condenser air throughput, such that any two
>> could be used to derive the third, but that's me just trying to sound
>> smart.
>>
>> 3) Does anyone know cfm specs for the radiator fan from late '80s-
>> early '90s 3.8 liter Ford Taurus?
>>
>> Thanks for the help.
>>
>> Matt
>
>The air conditioning on my 2000 park avenue blows cool air on the
>passengers side but uncooled air on the drivers side. What is the
>problem and how can it be fixed?
>Ed
>
Are the controls set so it does just what you are getting? >> Stay informed about: a/c repair babble |
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