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removing valves

 
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Mel P.

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Since: Sep 30, 2007
Posts: 36



(Msg. 1) Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:40 am
Post subject: removing valves
Archived from groups: rec>autos>makers>vw>aircooled (more info?)

I made a valve spring compressor that work just like the ones for sale.
However, when I compress the spring, the keeper stay in the spring. What's
the trick to hold the valve while compressing the spring. I tried to put a
small block of wood under with no luck. I don't want to chance cracking the
head.
Any help is appreciated.


tia,


--
Mel P.

parts for sale http://melsvws.4t.com/vwparts/index.htm
77 Bug - stock FI http://melsvws.4t.com/77bug/index.htm
70 KG Cabrio http://melsvws.4t.com/70ghia/index.htm

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Jan Andersson

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Since: Jul 28, 2008
Posts: 6



(Msg. 2) Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:40 am
Post subject: Re: removing valves [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Mel P. wrote:
> I made a valve spring compressor that work just like the ones for sale.
> However, when I compress the spring, the keeper stay in the spring. What's
> the trick to hold the valve while compressing the spring. I tried to put a
> small block of wood under with no luck. I don't want to chance cracking the
> head.
> Any help is appreciated.
>
>
> tia,
>
>


1: whack the keeper with a hammer before trying to compress it. Thst
should break it loose.

2: feed compressed air into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to
keep the valve from moving.

Works for me. Even without the air.

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One out of many Daves

External


Since: Jul 12, 2008
Posts: 2



(Msg. 3) Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:40 am
Post subject: Re: removing valves [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

I will assume that the cylinder head is off since you are removing the
valve.
The commercial units sandwich the cyl head and stop the valves from moving
as you squeeze the spring down. Nice easy to use design.
Or there is the big clamp that does the same thing as it touches the valve
on one side and the spring on the other.

You must be using a small spring compressor that allows the valve to move.
Try Jan's hammer trick but hit lightly. Wink
Or build a jig that locks the valve from moving. You can build it from 2x4s
securing it with the exhaust studs. Wink

"Jan Andersson" <bugfuel DeleteThis @spamtrap.rocketmail.com> wrote in message
news:6gl60mFgi7ksU1@mid.individual.net...
> Mel P. wrote:
>> I made a valve spring compressor that work just like the ones for sale.
>> However, when I compress the spring, the keeper stay in the spring.
>> What's the trick to hold the valve while compressing the spring. I
>> tried to put a small block of wood under with no luck. I don't want to
>> chance cracking the head.
>> Any help is appreciated.
>>
>>
>> tia,
>>
>>
>
>
> 1: whack the keeper with a hammer before trying to compress it. Thst
> should break it loose.
>
> 2: feed compressed air into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to
> keep the valve from moving.
>
> Works for me. Even without the air.
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Bob Hoover

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Since: Aug 07, 2008
Posts: 20



(Msg. 4) Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:14 pm
Post subject: Re: removing valves [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Your home-made valve tool obvious doesn't work like the real thing or
the keepers would stay put.

Try a thicker block of wood. You don't to see any movement in the
valve at all.

Once the spring is compressed the keepers will tend to stick to the
valve. Use a sharp scriber to spilt them away from the valve stem
then a sharp joggle to pop them free. Put the keepers, retainer and
spring in a MARKED box and stone the edges of the keeper-grooves. In
use, the keepers will generate a feather-edge of metal at each groove
that will ruin you valve guides unless removed.

After removal, the wiggle test will usually show the intake GUIDES are
within spec (they wear at about half the rate of the exhaust guides.

-Bob Hoover
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