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Hachiroku_$B%O%A%m%/(B

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Since: Nov 20, 2006
Posts: 2548



(Msg. 1) Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 12:37 am
Post subject: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing ANYTHING!!!!
Archived from groups: alt>autos>toyota, others (more info?)

I was lokking thorugh the Subaru manual to find out where the thermostat
was. I'm used to it being on TOP of the engine.

While it ididn't show the location, it did say, "Remove negative battery
terminal, and remove thermostat housing..."

Huh? Remove the - terminal berfore removing the thermostat housing?! WTF?!?!

Last night I went to pick up my papers for my "paper route" and saw a
big-ass GMC pickup I hadn't seen before. Then I saw one of my firend's
fathers, who started doing the papers about 10 days after I did. He
usually drive an '01 Pathfinder.

"Where's the Pathfinder?" "I wrecked it." "WHAT?!?!?!?!"

Well, he didn't really wreck it. He had a bad bulb in the overhead light.
He removed the lens, and the bulb was in pieces, but still working
intermittantly. He removed the bulb and replaced the lens, and then tried
to start the truck. No Go. The starter spins, but the engine doesn't catch.

Looks like he fried the ECU!!!! All the other lights work, the dome light
works, but the fuel pumpo doesn't energize. He tried the reset procedure
and nothing.

I had heard of this before; I can't remember what the car was, but someone
shorted out the ECU replacing the dome light...

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Nate Nagel

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Since: Nov 03, 2007
Posts: 326



(Msg. 2) Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 12:37 am
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Hachiroku ハチロク wrote:
> I was lokking thorugh the Subaru manual to find out where the thermostat
> was. I'm used to it being on TOP of the engine.
>
> While it ididn't show the location, it did say, "Remove negative battery
> terminal, and remove thermostat housing..."
>
> Huh? Remove the - terminal berfore removing the thermostat housing?! WTF?!?!
>
> Last night I went to pick up my papers for my "paper route" and saw a
> big-ass GMC pickup I hadn't seen before. Then I saw one of my firend's
> fathers, who started doing the papers about 10 days after I did. He
> usually drive an '01 Pathfinder.
>
> "Where's the Pathfinder?" "I wrecked it." "WHAT?!?!?!?!"
>
> Well, he didn't really wreck it. He had a bad bulb in the overhead light.
> He removed the lens, and the bulb was in pieces, but still working
> intermittantly. He removed the bulb and replaced the lens, and then tried
> to start the truck. No Go. The starter spins, but the engine doesn't catch.
>
> Looks like he fried the ECU!!!! All the other lights work, the dome light
> works, but the fuel pumpo doesn't energize. He tried the reset procedure
> and nothing.
>
> I had heard of this before; I can't remember what the car was, but someone
> shorted out the ECU replacing the dome light...
>
>

Typical dome light bulb is a dual contact base, he may have caused a
momentary short circuit to ground removing the broken bulb. Sounds
far-fetched, but possible that that could have damaged something.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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Elmo P. Shagnasty

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Since: Feb 15, 2004
Posts: 1073



(Msg. 3) Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 1:49 pm
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing ANYTHING!!!! [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Imported from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

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Jim Yanik1

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Since: Sep 02, 2003
Posts: 740



(Msg. 4) Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 8:59 pm
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing ANYTHING!!!! [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: alt>autos>honda (more info?)

"Steve W." <csr684NOT DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote in news:fh80s0$kq$1@aioe.org:

jim beam <spamvortex DeleteThis @bad.example.net> wrote;

>> fact 2 - ohmic behavior dictates that battery voltage drops as
>> current increases, not the other way around.
>
> Yes BUT take a chunk of wire and toss it across the battery. Measure
> the battery voltage. It likely won't cause a voltage drop as it heats
> up and melts.

Yes,it will.That battery has internal resistance,and a short will draw a
lot of current and make for a heavy V drop.(the same happens every time you
start your car;there are specs for battery Vdrop while cranking.)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
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dizzy1

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Since: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 308



(Msg. 5) Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 11:54 pm
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing ANYTHING!!!! [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: alt>autos>toyota, others (more info?)

Tony Hwang wrote:

>Whatever you think. A car battery has lots of energy in it.
>Think current in this case.

You are utterly without a clue. Best keep quiet.
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Tony Hwang

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Since: Jul 01, 2003
Posts: 211



(Msg. 6) Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 11:54 pm
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: alt>autos>honda (more info?)

Jim Yanik wrote:
> "Steve W." <csr684NOT DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote in news:fh80s0$kq$1@aioe.org:
>
> jim beam <spamvortex DeleteThis @bad.example.net> wrote;
>
>
>>>fact 2 - ohmic behavior dictates that battery voltage drops as
>>>current increases, not the other way around.
>>
>>Yes BUT take a chunk of wire and toss it across the battery. Measure
>>the battery voltage. It likely won't cause a voltage drop as it heats
>>up and melts.
>
>
> Yes,it will.That battery has internal resistance,and a short will draw a
> lot of current and make for a heavy V drop.(the same happens every time you
> start your car;there are specs for battery Vdrop while cranking.)
>
Hi,
Internal resistance is very small value. Against dead short it's not a
big factor. Cranking is not a dead short situation. Once I dropped a
pair of plier across heavy industrial battery terminals. The plier
litterally evaporated.
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Grumpy AuContraire

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Since: Dec 25, 2006
Posts: 489



(Msg. 7) Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 11:54 pm
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: alt>autos>toyota, others (more info?)

Hachiroku ハチロク wrote:

> On Mon, 12 Nov 2007 01:54:05 +0000, Refinish King wrote:
>
>
>>On about 92 and up:
>>
>>The dome light is connected to the Body Control Module.
>>
>>RK
>
>
> Hey, RK, how ya doin'?
>
> I wanted to ask you something a while ago, but I forget.
>
> At any rate, right. The DL is connected to the BCM, which MAY have a
> connection to the ECM.
>
>


Boy, am I glad that my newest vehicle is an '83...

JT
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jim beam

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Since: Aug 20, 2006
Posts: 1210



(Msg. 8) Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 11:54 pm
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: alt>autos>honda (more info?)

Tony Hwang wrote:
> Jim Yanik wrote:
>> "Steve W." <csr684NOT.DeleteThis@yahoo.com> wrote in news:fh80s0$kq$1@aioe.org:
>>
>> jim beam <spamvortex.DeleteThis@bad.example.net> wrote;
>>
>>
>>>> fact 2 - ohmic behavior dictates that battery voltage drops as
>>>> current increases, not the other way around.
>>>
>>> Yes BUT take a chunk of wire and toss it across the battery. Measure
>>> the battery voltage. It likely won't cause a voltage drop as it heats
>>> up and melts.
>>
>>
>> Yes,it will.That battery has internal resistance,and a short will draw
>> a lot of current and make for a heavy V drop.(the same happens every
>> time you start your car;there are specs for battery Vdrop while
>> cranking.)
> Hi,
> Internal resistance is very small value.

what is it then? state the number of ohms. typical honda civic battery.


> Against dead short it's not a
> big factor.

it is when it's the largest resistance in the circuit!


> Cranking is not a dead short situation.

and?

> Once I dropped a
> pair of plier across heavy industrial battery terminals. The plier
> litterally evaporated.

sure. and how much did the voltage drop?
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Andy Dingley

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Since: Oct 16, 2003
Posts: 15



(Msg. 9) Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:14 am
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing ANYTHING!!!! [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: alt>autos>toyota, others (more info?)

On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 02:17:38 GMT, Tony Hwang <dragon40 DeleteThis @shaw.ca> wrote:

>No way? If short caused a surge in the electrical system, anything is
>possible.

Maybe he reversed the polarity of the Bogon Flux ?
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Andy Dingley

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Since: Oct 16, 2003
Posts: 15



(Msg. 10) Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 1:15 am
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing ANYTHING!!!! [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

On Sun, 11 Nov 2007 21:26:28 GMT, Tony Hwang <dragon40 DeleteThis @shaw.ca> wrote:

>Tevnin Norton's theorem, etc. If you want to debate, email me directly.

Hey, I can even _spell_ Thevenin
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Dan_Thomas_nospam

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Since: Jul 11, 2007
Posts: 4



(Msg. 11) Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 7:50 pm
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing ANYTHING!!!! [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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On Nov 11, 3:48 pm, "Steve W." <csr684....RemoveThis@yahoo.com> wrote:

> VERY WRONG. ECUs are easy to kill if you are not paying attention. My
> SOP in the body shop is to pull the ECU on anything that rolls in for
> panel work. One good zap from a welder can kill the ECU without being
> near it.

A welder and a dome light are vastly different things. An arc
welder generates a HUGE reactive voltage spike when striking the arc,
and that spike can wander all over the entire vehicle and fry
sensitive electronics and not-so-sensitive things, too, like
alternator diodes. Standard procedure there is to disconnect the
battery whenever doing any welding on the thing. Shorting a dome light
will NOT generate any sort of spike. Period. You need a coil to
generate spikes, coils like those found in starters, alternator
rotors, ignition coils. You might as well try to generate a spike by
disconecting and reconnecting the battery.

Dan
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Hachiroku_$B%O%A%m%/(B

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Since: Nov 20, 2006
Posts: 2548



(Msg. 12) Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:54 pm
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing ANYTHING!!!! [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 04:33:54 +0000, fury45iii wrote:

> Guys, guys... go get a schematic and find out if the dome light is in the
> same circut as the ECU. Even if it is, I don't think the changing of the
> bulb is what caused the problem. I do think that whatever caused the light
> to function intermittantly MIGHT have cused the ECU problem. Either way,
> if the light was working sometimes, that would tell me that there was
> nothing wrong with the bulb. Funny thing about light bulbs... they either
> work, or they don't. The filament is either complete, or it's not. It
> doesn't go back once it's blown. Okay, so if there's a short, it would be
> either in the fixture, or in the wires going to it. Furthermore, That's
> what fuses are for! I've done it many many times. Shorting things out and
> blowing fuses and replacing them again.


Yeah, but we're talking a Nissan here! I've seenthings in Nissans I've
never seen in other cars.

And, he said the glass was broken. How it even lit without burning out is
a mystery!
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Tony Hwang

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Since: Jul 01, 2003
Posts: 211



(Msg. 13) Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 12:54 am
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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Dan_Thomas_nospam.TakeThisOut@yahoo.com wrote:

> On Nov 11, 3:48 pm, "Steve W." <csr684....TakeThisOut@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>>VERY WRONG. ECUs are easy to kill if you are not paying attention. My
>>SOP in the body shop is to pull the ECU on anything that rolls in for
>>panel work. One good zap from a welder can kill the ECU without being
>>near it.
>
>
> A welder and a dome light are vastly different things. An arc
> welder generates a HUGE reactive voltage spike when striking the arc,
> and that spike can wander all over the entire vehicle and fry
> sensitive electronics and not-so-sensitive things, too, like
> alternator diodes. Standard procedure there is to disconnect the
> battery whenever doing any welding on the thing. Shorting a dome light
> will NOT generate any sort of spike. Period. You need a coil to
> generate spikes, coils like those found in starters, alternator
> rotors, ignition coils. You might as well try to generate a spike by
> disconecting and reconnecting the battery.
>
> Dan
>
Hmmm,
Lamp filament is a tiny coil, LOL!
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jim beam

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Since: Aug 20, 2006
Posts: 1210



(Msg. 14) Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 12:54 am
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Tony Hwang wrote:
> Dan_Thomas_nospam.RemoveThis@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>> On Nov 11, 3:48 pm, "Steve W." <csr684....RemoveThis@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> VERY WRONG. ECUs are easy to kill if you are not paying attention. My
>>> SOP in the body shop is to pull the ECU on anything that rolls in for
>>> panel work. One good zap from a welder can kill the ECU without being
>>> near it.
>>
>>
>> A welder and a dome light are vastly different things. An arc
>> welder generates a HUGE reactive voltage spike when striking the arc,
>> and that spike can wander all over the entire vehicle and fry
>> sensitive electronics and not-so-sensitive things, too, like
>> alternator diodes. Standard procedure there is to disconnect the
>> battery whenever doing any welding on the thing. Shorting a dome light
>> will NOT generate any sort of spike. Period. You need a coil to
>> generate spikes, coils like those found in starters, alternator
>> rotors, ignition coils. You might as well try to generate a spike by
>> disconecting and reconnecting the battery.
>>
>> Dan
>>
> Hmmm,
> Lamp filament is a tiny coil, LOL!

with an air core and virtually no inductance. if you have instruments
that can measure any voltage spike you get from a coiled bulb filament,
i'd love to see your readings.
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Tony Hwang

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Since: Jul 01, 2003
Posts: 211



(Msg. 15) Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 12:54 am
Post subject: Re: Why you should remove the negative battery terminal before doing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

jim beam wrote:

> Tony Hwang wrote:
>
>> Dan_Thomas_nospam.RemoveThis@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>>> On Nov 11, 3:48 pm, "Steve W." <csr684....RemoveThis@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> VERY WRONG. ECUs are easy to kill if you are not paying attention. My
>>>> SOP in the body shop is to pull the ECU on anything that rolls in for
>>>> panel work. One good zap from a welder can kill the ECU without being
>>>> near it.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> A welder and a dome light are vastly different things. An arc
>>> welder generates a HUGE reactive voltage spike when striking the arc,
>>> and that spike can wander all over the entire vehicle and fry
>>> sensitive electronics and not-so-sensitive things, too, like
>>> alternator diodes. Standard procedure there is to disconnect the
>>> battery whenever doing any welding on the thing. Shorting a dome light
>>> will NOT generate any sort of spike. Period. You need a coil to
>>> generate spikes, coils like those found in starters, alternator
>>> rotors, ignition coils. You might as well try to generate a spike by
>>> disconecting and reconnecting the battery.
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>> Hmmm,
>> Lamp filament is a tiny coil, LOL!
>
>
> with an air core and virtually no inductance. if you have instruments
> that can measure any voltage spike you get from a coiled bulb filament,
> i'd love to see your readings.
Hmmm,
You are so bone headed, can't even take a joke.
The more you babble, the more you reveal your lack of knowledge:
pratical or thory. My job used to deal with fraction of nano amps. VLSI,
ASIC, etc. on mil-spec.
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