need opinion of hyundaitech

Is that Hertz's used price? Used '06 Sonatas should be going for a
LOT less than 20-25K. Maybe $14K.

My brand new '06 was bit less than 20K.

Since you work at Hertz, go ask your maintenance people what they
think of the Sonata. And let us know what you find out. It would be
very interesting to know what a rental company thinks of this car.

On Sep 14, 11:46 am, davefromkentu....RemoveThis@webtv.net (Dave Dave) wrote:
> no real problem. but wonder what you think about the 2007 & 2008 sonata
> V6. drive a camry and thinking about selling it and getting a 2007 or
> 2008 sonata V6. retired but work for hertz part time and of all the cars
> we have in the $20000.00 to $25000.00 price range the sonata V6 is the
> most fun to drive. handles great and lots and lots of power when you
> need it with pretty good gas mileage. just wondered if you think the
> sonata is on par with the camry and hold up in the long term. any real
> problems with the sonata or complaints from owners? my camry is a 2006
> le 4cyl. great car but oh so boring. thanks DAVE
 >> Stay informed about: need opinion of hyundaitech 

thanks hyundaitech. the 20k to 25 k is the sticker price i see on the
new cars. we get a lot of check engine lights on some of the cars but
don't think i have ever saw one come on on the sonata. love the standard
trip computer that comes on the sonata. also like the standard 6 airbags
on the 2008s and the standard stability control. seems like you get a
lot of car for the money. also noticed standard satellite radio on the
2008s. in case anyone wants to know the fastest car hertz rents that
we have a lot of is the infinity g35 , seems faster than the dodge
charger with the hemmi v8.. 5.6 seconds 0 to 60 for the g35. 6.0
seconds 0 to 60 for the charger with the hemmi according to consumer
reports. guess i am just an old man of 60 who still likes to put his
foot in it from time to time.
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"Dave Dave" <davefromkentucky.DeleteThis@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:10994-46EB6EA6-106@storefull-3351.bay.webtv.net...
> thanks hyundaitech. the 20k to 25 k is the sticker price i see on the
> new cars. we get a lot of check engine lights on some of the cars but
> don't think i have ever saw one come on on the sonata. love the standard
> trip computer that comes on the sonata. also like the standard 6 airbags
> on the 2008s and the standard stability control. seems like you get a
> lot of car for the money. also noticed standard satellite radio on the
> 2008s.

Your reasoning is about the same as mine. I was looking at another Buick,
but to get the stability control, I'd have to spends $35000 for the Lucerne
and I did not want the Northstar V-8.

At the same time I was looking a Buick, nothing much else was of serious
interest except the Avalon Limited at about the same price. If you
suggested buying Hyundai, their reputation from the late 1980's was still
fresh in my mind and I'd have laughed at the idea, even though I'd not
looked closely at one for many years. A couple of weeks later, talking to a
couple of people that had them as rentals, they were impressed with the new
Sonata.

Long story short, I looked, I liked, I bought. The car has everything that
I want at a price thousands less than the others. I'm not saying the
quality of the leather is the same as the Lucerne, but it is damned close. I
don't need the reclining rear seats that the Avalon Limited had. It does
have every feature that is important to me. I figure I have at least a
$5000 advantage, maybe more.
 >> Stay informed about: need opinion of hyundaitech 

The trip computer isn't (at the very least, wasn't) standard on all trim
levels. Make a list of the features that are important to you and verify
the car has all of them.

--
Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.hyundai/
More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
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On Sep 14, 12:47 pm, "hyundaitech" <notpub....TakeThisOut@not.public.com> wrote:
> The only significant issue I know of is the timing chain tensioners.
> And only the earliest production 2007s should have that issue.
> Revised tensioners were used after 8/4/06.

How necessary is it for 2006 and early 2007 Sonata V6 cars to have the
tensioner updated? Is Hyundai policy to replace the tensioner only if
there is a clattering noise on startup? Or are all of them supposed to
be replaced? (We have a fairly early 2006 Sonata V6. No bad noises on
startup.)
 >> Stay informed about: need opinion of hyundaitech 

pdp11tech <pdp11 RemoveThis @techie.com> scribbled:

> How necessary is it for 2006 and early 2007 Sonata V6 cars to have the
> tensioner updated? Is Hyundai policy to replace the tensioner only if
> there is a clattering noise on startup? Or are all of them supposed to
> be replaced? (We have a fairly early 2006 Sonata V6. No bad noises on
> startup.)
>
>

I would say if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Mine had to be done, and IIRC, it involved about 12 hours labor.
 >> Stay informed about: need opinion of hyundaitech 

> GUEST wrote:
> no real problem. but wonder what you think about the 2007 &
2008 sonata
> V6. drive a camry and thinking about selling it and getting a 2007
or
> 2008 sonata V6. retired but work for hertz part time and of all the
cars
> we have in the $20000.00 to $25000.00 price range the sonata V6 is
the
> most fun to drive. handles great and lots and lots of power when
you
> need it with pretty good gas mileage. just wondered if you think
the
> sonata is on par with the camry and hold up in the long term. any
real
> problems with the sonata or complaints from owners? my camry is a
2006
> le 4cyl. great car but oh so boring. thanks DAVE

Don,

I recently rented an almost new Camry and thought it was not only
boring but dangerous. This 4 cylinder had a hard time getting going
if starting out on a small hill and the suspension is very soft and
wavy. So I can understand why you are not happy with the Camry.

I have a 2002 Sonata V6 and it has been a pretty good car and I am
hoping for 150K miles before the end. It now has 74,000 miles on it.
There is nothing major wrong with the car that I know of but little
things are starting to malfunction like the gas door doesn't open
when the switch is depressed.

One big issue: the brake rotors keep warping and Hyundai refuses to
fix them under warranty even though it was still covered under the
bumper-to-bumper. That was a bad decision by Hyundai America. I
have now replaced the rotors and pads with high performance models
and hope that solves the problem.

Next time I will buy a Honda which has yielded better performance and
reliability for me in the past. Good luck.
 >> Stay informed about: need opinion of hyundaitech 

southluke wrote:
> > GUEST wrote:
> > no real problem. but wonder what you think about the 2007 &
> 2008 sonata
> > V6. drive a camry and thinking about selling it and getting a 2007
> or
> > 2008 sonata V6. retired but work for hertz part time and of all the
> cars
> > we have in the $20000.00 to $25000.00 price range the sonata V6 is
> the
> > most fun to drive. handles great and lots and lots of power when
> you
> > need it with pretty good gas mileage. just wondered if you think
> the
> > sonata is on par with the camry and hold up in the long term. any
> real
> > problems with the sonata or complaints from owners? my camry is a
> 2006
> > le 4cyl. great car but oh so boring. thanks DAVE
>
> Don,
>
> I recently rented an almost new Camry and thought it was not only
> boring but dangerous. This 4 cylinder had a hard time getting going
> if starting out on a small hill and the suspension is very soft and
> wavy. So I can understand why you are not happy with the Camry.
>
> I have a 2002 Sonata V6 and it has been a pretty good car and I am
> hoping for 150K miles before the end. It now has 74,000 miles on it.
> There is nothing major wrong with the car that I know of but little
> things are starting to malfunction like the gas door doesn't open
> when the switch is depressed.
>
> One big issue: the brake rotors keep warping and Hyundai refuses to
> fix them under warranty even though it was still covered under the
> bumper-to-bumper. That was a bad decision by Hyundai America. I
> have now replaced the rotors and pads with high performance models
> and hope that solves the problem.
>
> Next time I will buy a Honda which has yielded better performance and
> reliability for me in the past. Good luck.
>

You may also want to check your driving habits and pad break-in
procedure as rotors rarely actually warp. The pulsing is often a result
of uneven deposition of brake pad material onto the rotor. This can
often be corrected with a few 5-10 really hard stops to heat up the
rotor and redistribute the material. Also, try not to stop hard and
then hold the brakes for any period of time as that will cause pad
imprinting. Try to let the car roll slowly ahead after a hard stop
rather than standing on the brakes afterward.

Matt
 >> Stay informed about: need opinion of hyundaitech 

"Matt Whiting" <whiting.DeleteThis@epix.net> wrote in message
news:PssIi.45$2n4.2417@news1.epix.net...

>
> You may also want to check your driving habits and pad break-in procedure
> as rotors rarely actually warp. The pulsing is often a result of uneven
> deposition of brake pad material onto the rotor. This can often be
> corrected with a few 5-10 really hard stops to heat up the rotor and
> redistribute the material. Also, try not to stop hard and then hold the
> brakes for any period of time as that will cause pad imprinting. Try to
> let the car roll slowly ahead after a hard stop rather than standing on
> the brakes afterward.
>

Actually, a lot of aftermarket, and even some OEM rotors will warp from the
heat from semi-metallic pads. The break-in stuff is more hyperbole than
reality, as is the theory of hard braking. What really addresses this
problem best is a quality set of rotors and ceramic pads.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE.DeleteThis@alltel.net
 >> Stay informed about: need opinion of hyundaitech 

Mike Marlow wrote:
> "Matt Whiting" <whiting.RemoveThis@epix.net> wrote in message
> news:PssIi.45$2n4.2417@news1.epix.net...
>
>> You may also want to check your driving habits and pad break-in procedure
>> as rotors rarely actually warp. The pulsing is often a result of uneven
>> deposition of brake pad material onto the rotor. This can often be
>> corrected with a few 5-10 really hard stops to heat up the rotor and
>> redistribute the material. Also, try not to stop hard and then hold the
>> brakes for any period of time as that will cause pad imprinting. Try to
>> let the car roll slowly ahead after a hard stop rather than standing on
>> the brakes afterward.
>>
>
> Actually, a lot of aftermarket, and even some OEM rotors will warp from the
> heat from semi-metallic pads. The break-in stuff is more hyperbole than
> reality, as is the theory of hard braking. What really addresses this
> problem best is a quality set of rotors and ceramic pads.
>

If you have some data, I'm all ears. However, until then, I believe
this gentleman...

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

It also matches my experience.

Matt
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"Matt Whiting" <whiting RemoveThis @epix.net> wrote in message
news:AQEIi.52$2n4.2304@news1.epix.net...
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> "Matt Whiting" <whiting RemoveThis @epix.net> wrote in message
>> news:PssIi.45$2n4.2417@news1.epix.net...
>>
>>> You may also want to check your driving habits and pad break-in
>>> procedure as rotors rarely actually warp. The pulsing is often a result
>>> of uneven deposition of brake pad material onto the rotor. This can
>>> often be corrected with a few 5-10 really hard stops to heat up the
>>> rotor and redistribute the material. Also, try not to stop hard and
>>> then hold the brakes for any period of time as that will cause pad
>>> imprinting. Try to let the car roll slowly ahead after a hard stop
>>> rather than standing on the brakes afterward.
>>>
>>
>> Actually, a lot of aftermarket, and even some OEM rotors will warp from
>> the heat from semi-metallic pads. The break-in stuff is more hyperbole
>> than reality, as is the theory of hard braking. What really addresses
>> this problem best is a quality set of rotors and ceramic pads.
>>
>
> If you have some data, I'm all ears. However, until then, I believe this
> gentleman...
>
> http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
>
> It also matches my experience.
>

I read that as well Matt. Completely contradicts my experience.

--

-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE RemoveThis @alltel.net
 >> Stay informed about: need opinion of hyundaitech 

Mike Marlow wrote:
> "Matt Whiting" <whiting.TakeThisOut@epix.net> wrote in message
> news:AQEIi.52$2n4.2304@news1.epix.net...
>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>> "Matt Whiting" <whiting.TakeThisOut@epix.net> wrote in message
>>> news:PssIi.45$2n4.2417@news1.epix.net...
>>>
>>>> You may also want to check your driving habits and pad break-in
>>>> procedure as rotors rarely actually warp. The pulsing is often a result
>>>> of uneven deposition of brake pad material onto the rotor. This can
>>>> often be corrected with a few 5-10 really hard stops to heat up the
>>>> rotor and redistribute the material. Also, try not to stop hard and
>>>> then hold the brakes for any period of time as that will cause pad
>>>> imprinting. Try to let the car roll slowly ahead after a hard stop
>>>> rather than standing on the brakes afterward.
>>>>
>>> Actually, a lot of aftermarket, and even some OEM rotors will warp from
>>> the heat from semi-metallic pads. The break-in stuff is more hyperbole
>>> than reality, as is the theory of hard braking. What really addresses
>>> this problem best is a quality set of rotors and ceramic pads.
>>>
>> If you have some data, I'm all ears. However, until then, I believe this
>> gentleman...
>>
>> http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
>>
>> It also matches my experience.
>>
>
> I read that as well Matt. Completely contradicts my experience.
>

I haven't measured many with a dial indicator, but I've never yet found
one warped significantly. And I've had a couple of "warped" rotors that
were "fixed" with 5-10 hard stops to redistribute the pad material. A
mechanically warped disk would not get better with additional heating
cycles.

We'll have to agree to disagree. However, I suggest that anyone who
thinks their disks are warped should take the time to check them with a
dial indicator. I'll bet most times they will find no warpage.

Matt
 >> Stay informed about: need opinion of hyundaitech 

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> "Matt Whiting" <whiting.TakeThisOut@epix.net> wrote in message
>> news:AQEIi.52$2n4.2304@news1.epix.net...
>>> Mike Marlow wrote:
>>>> "Matt Whiting" <whiting.TakeThisOut@epix.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:PssIi.45$2n4.2417@news1.epix.net...
>>>>
>>>>> You may also want to check your driving habits and pad break-in
>>>>> procedure as rotors rarely actually warp. The pulsing is often a
>>>>> result of uneven deposition of brake pad material onto the rotor.
>>>>> This can often be corrected with a few 5-10 really hard stops to
>>>>> heat up the rotor and redistribute the material. Also, try not to
>>>>> stop hard and then hold the brakes for any period of time as that
>>>>> will cause pad imprinting. Try to let the car roll slowly ahead
>>>>> after a hard stop rather than standing on the brakes afterward.
>>>>>
>>>> Actually, a lot of aftermarket, and even some OEM rotors will warp
>>>> from the heat from semi-metallic pads. The break-in stuff is more
>>>> hyperbole than reality, as is the theory of hard braking. What
>>>> really addresses this problem best is a quality set of rotors and
>>>> ceramic pads.
>>>>
>>> If you have some data, I'm all ears. However, until then, I believe
>>> this gentleman...
>>>
>>> http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
>>>
>>> It also matches my experience.
>>>
>>
>> I read that as well Matt. Completely contradicts my experience.
>>
>
> I haven't measured many with a dial indicator, but I've never yet found
> one warped significantly. And I've had a couple of "warped" rotors that
> were "fixed" with 5-10 hard stops to redistribute the pad material. A
> mechanically warped disk would not get better with additional heating
> cycles.
>
> We'll have to agree to disagree. However, I suggest that anyone who
> thinks their disks are warped should take the time to check them with a
> dial indicator. I'll bet most times they will find no warpage.
>
> Matt

I'll add that they should also try 5-10 hard stops in quick succession
with no cooling between stops. If you are going to replace the rotors
and pads anyway, you have nothing to lose, but don't be surprised if
your "warped" rotors get a lot better all of the sudden. They will
unlikely get completely smooth for the reasons mentioned in the article
above, but I've tried this twice now and it made a huge improvement.

Matt
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