oil question. .forester

glasceus wrote:
>
> is there a way to tell what kind of oil is in the engine? my first oil
> change is coming up and i would like to add the exact same oil in

Hi,

What's in there from the factory is probably an unknown, and most likely
always will be!

As Mulder noted, just pick the right weight for your conditions, in a
brand you like and can get readily (NO, I'm not trying to start "oil
wars" all over again!), and go from there. While lots of us have our own
favorites, most of the "experts" I've read over the last 15-20 yrs
indicate you can even switch between brands for top ups and such as long
as you maintain the proper viscosity. While I try to avoid doing that,
I've had to on occasion and nothing bad happened.

Rick
 >> Stay informed about: oil question. .forester 

<mulder.TakeThisOut@x.files> wrote in message


> Not unless you have access to the previous service records. But, it
> doesn't really matter since you will be draining that oil out anyway,
> and all you need to do is use the correct viscosity for the expected
> ambient temperatures as called for in the manual. What was used before
> isn't important.

Or you just use synthetic that holds a more constant viscosity regardless of
temperature.
 >> Stay informed about: oil question. .forester 

On Sat, 21 Jan 2006 10:13:36 -0800, Rick Courtright
<rcourtright.RemoveThis@iname.com> wrote:

>glasceus wrote:
>>
>> is there a way to tell what kind of oil is in the engine? my first oil
>> change is coming up and i would like to add the exact same oil in
>
>Hi,
>
>What's in there from the factory is probably an unknown, and most likely
>always will be!
>
More than likely, considering big business, correct viscosity and
additives, but lowest bidder.
 >> Stay informed about: oil question. .forester 

QX wrote:

> On Sat, 21 Jan 2006 10:13:36 -0800, Rick Courtright
> <rcourtright.RemoveThis@iname.com> wrote:
>
>
>>glasceus wrote:
>>
>>>is there a way to tell what kind of oil is in the engine? my first oil
>>>change is coming up and i would like to add the exact same oil in
>>
>>Hi,
>>
>>What's in there from the factory is probably an unknown, and most likely
>>always will be!
>>
>
> More than likely, considering big business, correct viscosity and
> additives, but lowest bidder.

I got an oil analysis on the factory fill in my 2004 WRX (made
in Japan). It was supposedly a 5W-30 oil and still maintained
a 30 wt viscosity after I drained it at 3000 miles.
 >> Stay informed about: oil question. .forester 

R Sweeney wrote:

> <mulder RemoveThis @x.files> wrote in message
>
>
>
>>Not unless you have access to the previous service records. But, it
>>doesn't really matter since you will be draining that oil out anyway,
>>and all you need to do is use the correct viscosity for the expected
>>ambient temperatures as called for in the manual. What was used before
>>isn't important.

Anywhere from 80-90% of the oil is being drained out anyways.
There's very little that can go wrong simply because the type
or weight of oil is changed. Most cars are very tolerant of
different oils. What's available 7 years from now isn't going
to be like what's available today.

> Or you just use synthetic that holds a more constant viscosity
> regardless of temperature.

I don't know if that's a good way of describing it. Nothing
holds a "constant" viscosity. Virtually all fluids thin out
with an increase in temperature and thicken when colder. I've
heard swimmers describe freezing water as "viscous".

A high-quality **true** synthetic oil (count out most Castrol
Syntec or Valvoline SynPower) will still lubricate reasonably
well at an operating temp where an equivalent weight conventional
oil won't. The viscosity curve is definitely less pronounced.

Most of todays "conventional motor oil" is at least partly
"group II/III" oils that some companies (like Castrol USA or
Valvoline) market as "synthetic". These are generally better
at maintaining viscosity at higher temperatures than their
predecessors.
 >> Stay informed about: oil question. .forester 

"y_p_w" <y_p_w.RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:w5QAf.933$1n4.582@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>
>
> R Sweeney wrote:
>
>> <mulder.RemoveThis@x.files> wrote in message
>>
>>
>>
>>>Not unless you have access to the previous service records. But, it
>>>doesn't really matter since you will be draining that oil out anyway,
>>>and all you need to do is use the correct viscosity for the expected
>>>ambient temperatures as called for in the manual. What was used before
>>>isn't important.
>
> Anywhere from 80-90% of the oil is being drained out anyways.
> There's very little that can go wrong simply because the type
> or weight of oil is changed. Most cars are very tolerant of
> different oils. What's available 7 years from now isn't going
> to be like what's available today.
>
>> Or you just use synthetic that holds a more constant viscosity
>> regardless of temperature.
>
> I don't know if that's a good way of describing it. Nothing
> holds a "constant" viscosity. Virtually all fluids thin out
> with an increase in temperature and thicken when colder. I've
> heard swimmers describe freezing water as "viscous".

try changing oil outside in January
try cranking on a sub-zero degree day

the synthetics flow just as they do in summer
but the naturals "flow" like cold maple syrup

Nothing holds a constant viscosity vs temperature, but synthetics come
pretty darned close over normal North American temps.
 >> Stay informed about: oil question. .forester 

R Sweeney wrote:

> "y_p_w" <y_p_w DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:w5QAf.933$1n4.582@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net...
>
>>
>>R Sweeney wrote:
>>
>>
>>><mulder DeleteThis @x.files> wrote in message
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Not unless you have access to the previous service records. But, it
>>>>doesn't really matter since you will be draining that oil out anyway,
>>>>and all you need to do is use the correct viscosity for the expected
>>>>ambient temperatures as called for in the manual. What was used before
>>>>isn't important.
>>
>>Anywhere from 80-90% of the oil is being drained out anyways.
>>There's very little that can go wrong simply because the type
>>or weight of oil is changed. Most cars are very tolerant of
>>different oils. What's available 7 years from now isn't going
>>to be like what's available today.
>>
>>
>>>Or you just use synthetic that holds a more constant viscosity
>>>regardless of temperature.
>>
>>I don't know if that's a good way of describing it. Nothing
>>holds a "constant" viscosity. Virtually all fluids thin out
>>with an increase in temperature and thicken when colder. I've
>>heard swimmers describe freezing water as "viscous".
>
>
> try changing oil outside in January
> try cranking on a sub-zero degree day
>
> the synthetics flow just as they do in summer
> but the naturals "flow" like cold maple syrup

There's nothing "natural" about any modern motor oil. They
all use polymeric VI improvers, pour point depressants,
detergents, dispersants, and any number of man-made chemicals.
In many ways, the terms "synthetic" and "conventional" are
marketing terms. Mobil checmists originally wanted to call
their product a "synthesized hydrocarbon", and sold their
first Mobil 1 offering as "Mobil SHC".

Even in cold temperatures, a 20W-50 "synthetic" oil will
flow out of the bottle slower than a "conventional" 5W-20.
The advantage of many synthetic oils is that they don't
contain waxes that tend to thicken in cold temps. Oil
processing has removed a lot of conventional oils and
pour point depressants help resist wax crystallization.

> Nothing holds a constant viscosity vs temperature, but
> synthetics come pretty darned close over normal North
> American temps.

Depends on the "synthetic" oil. Many "synthetic" oils
these days are primarily group III base oil. Some companies
market products based on group III as "conventional". They
certain do outperform oils made even a few years ago.
Many conventional oils have quite acceptable cold weather
performance.

Now - I'm not knocking synthetic oil. I live in a temperate
climate but use Mobil 1 5W-30. It certainly is a good choice
to withstand the stresses from a turbocharged engine.
 >> Stay informed about: oil question. .forester 

changed my oil in my used 98 forester today for the first time. i put
conventional 10w-30 in there. i live in so cali, i was gonna go
synthetic but i read a lot of stories about how it will expose leaks on
problematic older engines. and lets face it. the forester has a very
fragile engine. no use in taking the risk. i'll just continue using
that oil and change every 3000 miles. the car isnt burning oil at
133kmiles so thats good.

do u think conventional 5w-30 will be ok for New york winter weather?
or will i have to switch to synthetic before i move? what do u guys put
in your old subarus? thanks
 >> Stay informed about: oil question. .forester 

On 23 Jan 2006 22:15:04 -0800, "glasceus" <glasceus.DeleteThis@hotmail.com>
wrote:

>changed my oil in my used 98 forester today for the first time.
[deletia]

>do u think conventional 5w-30 will be ok for New york winter weather?

Works perfectly fine here in western New York; it's the only weight
our dealers put in.
 >> Stay informed about: oil question. .forester