"smantas" wrote
> I have a 93 accord with automatic trans and when I shift to D4 (which is
> like overdrive) the d4 indicator light lights up fine.....after the car
> shifts from 1st to 2nd, the light will start flashing and continue to flash
> no matter what gear I put it in after that...... now that light will not
> light up at all now but the others do (reverse, netrual, etc)....the owners
> manual says that when this light starts flashing it indicates there "may" be
> a problem with the transmission..........the trans shifts just fine and the
> fluid is full and no burnt smell to it, but this has me puzzled.
>
>
> Also, is there a way to adjust the idle speed? The car when it's in drive or
> when coming to a stop wants to almost die out. The rpm's seem way too low.
I'm no expert but here are some online manual reference for 1993 Accords as well
as a little of my own recent experience with low RPM:
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/index.html
For idle speed setting, click on fuel injected or carbureted as appropriate,
then click on "Idle Speed Setting." For troubleshooting, click on the Idle
Control System Troubleshooting guide. E.g. see page 2 of
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/400/6-192.pdf
Notice that for fuel-injected Accords, for low RPM, the guide suggests the A/T
shift position signal may be the problem and says see page 202:
http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/AccordManual/400/6-202.pdf
Seems like your car's two problems may very well be related.
Another possibility for the low RPM:
My manual transmission 1991 Civic started idling low, to the point it seemed it
might stall out, recently. I had no check engine lights or ECU codes, but, like
the Accord guide above, the guide for my Civic said the problem might very well
be with the EACV (electronic air control valve). I took out the EACV and as I
was doing so found one of the two coolant lines to it empty, like a big air
bubble was in the system. I sprayed carburetor, etc. cleaner into the EACV, let
it dry out (if you don't, the first start-up may be a little rough) and
re-assembled everything, priming the two coolant lines with coolant as best I
could before re-attaching them.
I then did a very thorough purge of the coolant system, per the coolant drain
and fill directions. I'd never left the car idling with the radiator cap off
(per the directions) for 35 minutes before so as to get the coolant fan to come
on two times. This time I did.
My two theories on how I got air into the system: I changed out the thermostat
in March; I'd never done a good purge before when changing the coolant.
Anyway, the result is the car is idling much better. I am not seeing the rapid
drop-off in RPM when I come to stops anymore.
Updates for the edification of all and the group archives are welcome.
Good luck.
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