different engine, different problems

"Speedy Jim" <volks_cleve.RemoveThis@sbcglobal.net> schreef in bericht
news:6aX5j.5661$C24.2281@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net...
> bug '59 wrote:
>> Hi RAMVA,
>>
>> it has been a while since i replaced my engine, but there are still some
>> problems.
>> When i turn on the indicator, the GEN light on my dash will blink (very
>> dim) at the same time. More when rainy and when i use the brakes. Is that
>> a ground problem?
>
>
> That's caused by small voltage drops in the (+) side
> rather than bad grounds. It may be as simple as poor
> connection at a fuse holder. Another suspect on a '59 is the
> Headlight switch. It's coincidental, but all power to the
> front goes thru the Headlight switch terminals. You may be
> able to track it down merely by wiggling wire terminations
> and see what affects it.
>
>
>
>>
>> Also, the engine sputters badly when cold and wet weather, and there is
>> no power (like towing a trailer)... The CO is set with a CO-meter so i
>> might think that the carb is adjusted correctly? Any ideas what could be
>> going on in there? Valves adjusted incorrect? Bad plug cables? Or
>> distributor?
>> It's an AB engine,
>
> Cold + wet suggests carb icing.
> Make sure that the heated air inlet to the
> air cleaner is *actually* working. '59 didn't
> have it originally, but your AB should.
>
> BTW, heated air inlet is different from
> manifold heat ("heat riser"). Manifold heat
> has far less effect on icing.
>
> The other possible is poor spark. That
> could be from almost any part of the ignition system.
>
> Speedy Jim
> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

James,
thank you for your quick reply, as always.

i noticed that i haven't been accurate as to the type of beetle, sorry for
that.
It's a '73 1300. Changed from AR to AB.

The icing...
I installed a refurbished headriser so there was no doubt for a clogged
headriser.
I have to check for the heated air inlet.
I'm using the oilbad aircleaner which came with the AB but am thinking on
using the paper one again which was on the AR.

Ignition...
The reason i changed engine was due to a clonk in the AR engine when driving
at steady speeds (cold Engine)
Many people told me the clonk came from the drive shaft(?)
Although it was a 1300cc engine it was pretty fast ie. could get along in
traffic very well!
However the possibility of getting stranded made me change the engine, now
THIS engine is very sluggish.
If it has anything to do with ignition would transplanting the whole
ignition be a solution?
How hard is it to change the distributor? I'm told it is not that easy....

Thanks again for your help,
Roger
 >> Stay informed about: different engine, different problems 

bug '59 wrote:

> "Speedy Jim" <volks_cleve DeleteThis @sbcglobal.net> schreef in bericht
> news:6aX5j.5661$C24.2281@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net...
>
>>bug '59 wrote:
>>
>>>Hi RAMVA,
>>>
>>>it has been a while since i replaced my engine, but there are still some
>>>problems.
>>>When i turn on the indicator, the GEN light on my dash will blink (very
>>>dim) at the same time. More when rainy and when i use the brakes. Is that
>>>a ground problem?
>>
>>
>> That's caused by small voltage drops in the (+) side
>>rather than bad grounds. It may be as simple as poor
>>connection at a fuse holder. Another suspect on a '59 is the
>>Headlight switch. It's coincidental, but all power to the
>>front goes thru the Headlight switch terminals. You may be
>>able to track it down merely by wiggling wire terminations
>>and see what affects it.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Also, the engine sputters badly when cold and wet weather, and there is
>>>no power (like towing a trailer)... The CO is set with a CO-meter so i
>>>might think that the carb is adjusted correctly? Any ideas what could be
>>>going on in there? Valves adjusted incorrect? Bad plug cables? Or
>>>distributor?
>>>It's an AB engine,
>>
>> Cold + wet suggests carb icing.
>>Make sure that the heated air inlet to the
>>air cleaner is *actually* working. '59 didn't
>>have it originally, but your AB should.
>>
>> BTW, heated air inlet is different from
>>manifold heat ("heat riser"). Manifold heat
>>has far less effect on icing.
>>
>> The other possible is poor spark. That
>>could be from almost any part of the ignition system.
>>
>>Speedy Jim
>>http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>
>
> James,
> thank you for your quick reply, as always.
>
> i noticed that i haven't been accurate as to the type of beetle, sorry for
> that.
> It's a '73 1300. Changed from AR to AB.
>
> The icing...
> I installed a refurbished headriser so there was no doubt for a clogged
> headriser.
> I have to check for the heated air inlet.
> I'm using the oilbad aircleaner which came with the AB but am thinking on
> using the paper one again which was on the AR.
>
> Ignition...
> The reason i changed engine was due to a clonk in the AR engine when driving
> at steady speeds (cold Engine)
> Many people told me the clonk came from the drive shaft(?)
> Although it was a 1300cc engine it was pretty fast ie. could get along in
> traffic very well!
> However the possibility of getting stranded made me change the engine, now
> THIS engine is very sluggish.
> If it has anything to do with ignition would transplanting the whole
> ignition be a solution?
> How hard is it to change the distributor? I'm told it is not that easy....
>
> Thanks again for your help,
> Roger
>
>

You can use either the oil bath or the paper type.
Both have the heated air inlet. What you must be
certain of is that the inlet is *actually* working.
The paper type has a vacuum diaphragm to operate
a "flap" valve. When the valve is open, hot air is
sucked up from below over the cylinder fins thru a
large paper hose.

Don't replace the distributor unless there is
some suspicion that the advance mechanism isn't working.
The distributor itself would not cause weak spark when
cold/wet.

Since you specifically mention poor running when
cold/wet, I must assume that it runs well when warm/dry.
Yes?

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
 >> Stay informed about: different engine, different problems 

"Speedy Jim" <volks_cleve.TakeThisOut@sbcglobal.net> schreef in bericht
news:5bZ5j.76030$YL5.61301@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...
> bug '59 wrote:
>
>> "Speedy Jim" <volks_cleve.TakeThisOut@sbcglobal.net> schreef in bericht
>> news:6aX5j.5661$C24.2281@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net...
>>
>>>bug '59 wrote:
>>>
>>>>Hi RAMVA,
>>>>
>>>>it has been a while since i replaced my engine, but there are still some
>>>>problems.
>>>>When i turn on the indicator, the GEN light on my dash will blink (very
>>>>dim) at the same time. More when rainy and when i use the brakes. Is
>>>>that a ground problem?
>>>
>>>
>>> That's caused by small voltage drops in the (+) side
>>>rather than bad grounds. It may be as simple as poor
>>>connection at a fuse holder. Another suspect on a '59 is the
>>>Headlight switch. It's coincidental, but all power to the
>>>front goes thru the Headlight switch terminals. You may be
>>>able to track it down merely by wiggling wire terminations
>>>and see what affects it.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Also, the engine sputters badly when cold and wet weather, and there is
>>>>no power (like towing a trailer)... The CO is set with a CO-meter so i
>>>>might think that the carb is adjusted correctly? Any ideas what could be
>>>>going on in there? Valves adjusted incorrect? Bad plug cables? Or
>>>>distributor?
>>>>It's an AB engine,
>>>
>>> Cold + wet suggests carb icing.
>>>Make sure that the heated air inlet to the
>>>air cleaner is *actually* working. '59 didn't
>>>have it originally, but your AB should.
>>>
>>> BTW, heated air inlet is different from
>>>manifold heat ("heat riser"). Manifold heat
>>>has far less effect on icing.
>>>
>>> The other possible is poor spark. That
>>>could be from almost any part of the ignition system.
>>>
>>>Speedy Jim
>>>http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>>
>>
>> James,
>> thank you for your quick reply, as always.
>>
>> i noticed that i haven't been accurate as to the type of beetle, sorry
>> for that.
>> It's a '73 1300. Changed from AR to AB.
>>
>> The icing...
>> I installed a refurbished headriser so there was no doubt for a clogged
>> headriser.
>> I have to check for the heated air inlet.
>> I'm using the oilbad aircleaner which came with the AB but am thinking on
>> using the paper one again which was on the AR.
>>
>> Ignition...
>> The reason i changed engine was due to a clonk in the AR engine when
>> driving at steady speeds (cold Engine)
>> Many people told me the clonk came from the drive shaft(?)
>> Although it was a 1300cc engine it was pretty fast ie. could get along in
>> traffic very well!
>> However the possibility of getting stranded made me change the engine,
>> now THIS engine is very sluggish.
>> If it has anything to do with ignition would transplanting the whole
>> ignition be a solution?
>> How hard is it to change the distributor? I'm told it is not that
>> easy....
>>
>> Thanks again for your help,
>> Roger
>
> You can use either the oil bath or the paper type.
> Both have the heated air inlet. What you must be
> certain of is that the inlet is *actually* working.
> The paper type has a vacuum diaphragm to operate
> a "flap" valve. When the valve is open, hot air is
> sucked up from below over the cylinder fins thru a
> large paper hose.
>
> Don't replace the distributor unless there is
> some suspicion that the advance mechanism isn't working.
> The distributor itself would not cause weak spark when
> cold/wet.
>
> Since you specifically mention poor running when
> cold/wet, I must assume that it runs well when warm/dry.
> Yes?
>
> Speedy Jim
> http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
>


Not well but better. (poor in comparance to the AR engine)
When cornering there are some major hessitations (sometimes) Fuel?

When i first started to drive with this engine, i thought i check the fuel
consumption.
Maybe i missed some digits but it looks like it is running very bad...
210 km with 35 litres!!
I'm re-checking the consumtion since i first thought the milage was very
good
(needle dropping very slowly)
I doo suspect the advance is not working properly either.
Is it that hard to change the distributor?
Oh, and sometimes it is hard to start the engine.. (ignition?)

thanks for your help,
Roger
 >> Stay informed about: different engine, different problems