Morgans wrote:
> "DeserTBoB" <desertb.TakeThisOut@rglobal.net> wrote
>
>
>>That would be the 2.7 V6. Peek in the valve cover to look for signs
>>of sludging. If the engine has been well maintained, it shouldn't be
>>a problem, but it pays to run synthetic and change it like you would
>>non-synthetic.
>
>
> Have they fixed the problem with a coked timing idler handgrenading the
> engine, and if so, what year did they fix it? If frequent oil changes with
> the recommended oil, is there a mileage where it is a wise thing to replace
> the idler and timing chain? (Is it a chain, or belt- I'm guessing a belt,
> since it is where oil is running around.)
>
> I noticed that the oil filler had a marking on it recommending 5w - 20 oil,
> or something weird like that that. I thought that was strange, anyway!
They made some changes in '00 that they kind of kept quiet about -
larger oil pump capacity, improved PCV, and possibly some other changes
affecting oil return passages (like I say, they haven't been too free
with documenting the changes lest they effectrively admit that there
were problems that needed fixing). The fact that they're using the 2.7
on the new lines as their base engine, and we aren't hearing reports of
problems is a good sign (that they fixed the problems) - the problems
were real, and it would be unimaginable for them to continue the use of
the engine to this extent without them fixing the problems to their own
satisfaction.
FWIW, my daily 80 mile per day daily driver '99 Concorde has 170k miles
on it and is running great. BTW - it has a timing chain, not belt,
which is good, but, as with so many engines today, the water pump is
integrated onto the cam drive system, and the engine is interference -
that's not so good - but what are ya gonna do? I have not replaced the
chain, tensioner, water pump or anything else internal. My philosophy
right now is to watch for water leakage and keep going - if the water
pump locks up, it's a risk at this point I'm willing to take. I reserve
the right to panic and change my mind about this at any time and to go
ahead and redo the front of the engine.
About a uear ago, I retrofitted one of the later factory changes - an
improved PCV hose (steals heat from the cooling system to prevent the
hose from clogging with blowby condensates). Other than that, bone
stock with all original parts.
Since buying it used with 58k on it, I have used Castrol dino oil with 8
oz. of Marvel Mystery Oil in it at all times. Because the MMO is on the
thin side, I blend 10W-30 and 20W-50 - 2-to-3 in the summer, 3-to-2 in
the winter. That ough to be giving me the equivalent of around a 10W-30
in winter and 15W-40 in summer - just a guess. I don't go quite as thin
as some mfgr.'s recommendations on oil - much of that has more to do
with legally validating CAFE numbers than with engine longevity.
I attribute my problem free experience with the 2.7 with two things
(besides regular oil changes - 3500 ±500 mile intervals and filter gets
changed every time): (1) The lack of short-trip stop-and-go driving 80
mile daily commute, and (2) The MMO to clean it out initially when
purchased and as a preventative. Others use synthetic, but it's not the
panacia that many believe, especially if switched over to later in
engine life - IMO...
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')
>> Stay informed about: What engine needed special low coking oil? 
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