How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D?

The engine in my 1982 300 TDT was remanufactured last summer. I had
the shop put in new cylinder sleeves and use standard pistons, so my
compression is like new. I do not see any visible exhaust except on
very cold mornings for just a few moments as the engine is warming up.

I agree with Tiger. If you see a lot of smoke the compression of the
engine may be suspect.
 >> Stay informed about: How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D? 

Very clear... How is your compression?
 >> Stay informed about: How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D? 

Tiger wrote:
> Very clear... How is your compression?

I haven't measured it yet.
 >> Stay informed about: How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D? 

weelliott DeleteThis @gmail.com wrote:
> On Jul 21, 1:14 am, RF <R... DeleteThis @NoDen.con> wrote:
>> I have an old thread called Oil Spots on an Air
>> Filter that is in the process of being deleted "
>> Error! newsgroup server responded: Bad article
>> number," so I'll take over here.
>>
>> I have used the adjustment screw on the rear of
>> the IP to reduce the exhaust smoke from the 240D.
>> The reduction was considerable but it is still
>> smoky. There is no blue color - it's now grey.
>> The question is just how clear should the smoke
>> be? Subjective question I know but efforts will be
>> appreciated.
>
> Once my 300D turbodiesel is warmed up the exhaust is perfectly clear.
> If I am following my car and the driver floors it there is a light
> hint of smoke at low speeds, but over 15 or 20 the car is moving along
> enough that you can't even detect it. And it is set pretty rich too.
> You really shouldn't be able to detect any smoke either while it is
> warm and idling or while driving.

Thanks WE.

My engine was not hot when I last checked the
exhaust. I'll take a run
soon and will then check the exhaust color.

Have a great week
 >> Stay informed about: How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D? 

heav wrote:
> The engine in my 1982 300 TDT was remanufactured last summer. I had
> the shop put in new cylinder sleeves and use standard pistons, so my
> compression is like new. I do not see any visible exhaust except on
> very cold mornings for just a few moments as the engine is warming up.
>
> I agree with Tiger. If you see a lot of smoke the compression of the
> engine may be suspect.


My car has only 90,300 miles on it and the oil has
been changed very regularly.
I think the MBZs of that era should drive fiurther
than that before getting new sleeves.
Will run it hot for a while and then check again.
 >> Stay informed about: How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D? 

RF wrote:
> weelliott.DeleteThis@gmail.com wrote:
>> On Jul 21, 1:14 am, RF <R....DeleteThis@NoDen.con> wrote:
>>> I have an old thread called Oil Spots on an Air
>>> Filter that is in the process of being deleted "
>>> Error! newsgroup server responded: Bad article
>>> number," so I'll take over here.
>>>
>>> I have used the adjustment screw on the rear of
>>> the IP to reduce the exhaust smoke from the 240D.
>>> The reduction was considerable but it is still
>>> smoky. There is no blue color - it's now grey.
>>> The question is just how clear should the smoke
>>> be? Subjective question I know but efforts will be
>>> appreciated.
>>
>> Once my 300D turbodiesel is warmed up the exhaust is perfectly clear.
>> If I am following my car and the driver floors it there is a light
>> hint of smoke at low speeds, but over 15 or 20 the car is moving along
>> enough that you can't even detect it. And it is set pretty rich too.
>> You really shouldn't be able to detect any smoke either while it is
>> warm and idling or while driving.
>
> Thanks WE.
>
> My engine was not hot when I last checked the exhaust. I'll take a run
> soon and will then check the exhaust color.
>
> Have a great week

I had my run and got the engine normal operating
temperature but there was no great change in the
smoke condition.

Now I am thinking of 3 tasks that could help it.

1 Do the purge on the IP and injectors.
DieselGiant has an article on this and it seems
like they used a soft drink plastic bottle to hold
the purging fluid, with two holes in the cap, two
short hoses, one to the IP inline filter and the
other to the top of the spin filter. The IP sucks
the fluid out, some of which burns as the engine
runs and the rest returns to the bottle.
http://dieselgiant.com/injectorcleaning.htm This
is for an OM617 but the pictures look like my 616.

2 Adjust the valves. This looks straightforward.

3 Adjust the timing chain. Info on this one seems
to be lacking. The MBZ manual, and DieselGiant
describe the replacement of the chain but I can't
find any instructions for adjusting the tension.
Is it simply a matter of adjusting the tension
bolt until the noise is a minimum or is there
another criterion?

TIA
 >> Stay informed about: How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D? 

On Jul 21, 7:49 pm, RF <R... RemoveThis @NoDen.con> wrote:
> RF wrote:
> > weelli... RemoveThis @gmail.com wrote:
> >> On Jul 21, 1:14 am, RF <R... RemoveThis @NoDen.con> wrote:
> >>> I have an old thread called  Oil Spots on an Air
> >>> Filter  that is in the process of being deleted "
> >>> Error! newsgroup server responded: Bad article
> >>> number," so I'll take over here.
>
> >>> I have used the adjustment screw on the rear of
> >>> the IP to reduce the exhaust smoke from the 240D.
> >>> The reduction was considerable but it is still
> >>> smoky. There is no blue color - it's now grey.
> >>> The question is just how clear should the smoke
> >>> be? Subjective question I know but efforts will be
> >>> appreciated.
>
> >> Once my 300D turbodiesel is warmed up the exhaust is perfectly clear.
> >> If I am following my car and the driver floors it there is a light
> >> hint of smoke at low speeds, but over 15 or 20 the car is moving along
> >> enough that you can't even detect it. And it is set pretty rich too.
> >> You really shouldn't be able to detect any smoke either while it is
> >> warm and idling or while driving.
>
> > Thanks WE.
>
> > My engine was not hot when I last checked the exhaust. I'll take a run
> > soon and will then check the exhaust color.
>
> > Have a great week
>
> I had my run and got the engine normal operating
> temperature but there was no great change in the
> smoke condition.
>
> Now I am thinking of 3 tasks that could help it.
>
> 1       Do the purge on the IP and injectors.
> DieselGiant has an article on this and it seems
> like they used a soft drink plastic bottle to hold
> the purging fluid, with two holes in the cap, two
> short hoses, one to the IP inline filter and the
> other to the top of the spin filter. The IP sucks
> the fluid out, some of which burns as the engine
> runs and the rest returns to the bottle.http://dieselgiant.com/injectorcleaning.htm This
> is for an OM617 but the pictures look like my 616.
>
> 2       Adjust the valves. This looks straightforward.
>
> 3       Adjust the timing chain.  Info on this one seems
> to be lacking. The MBZ manual, and DieselGiant
> describe the replacement of the chain but I can't
> find any instructions for adjusting the tension.
> Is it simply a matter of adjusting the tension
> bolt until the noise is a minimum or is there
> another criterion?
>
> TIA- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I would definitely suggest #1. The purge gave my car a lot of power.
If it is dirty in there all sorts of bad stuff can go on. Use two cans
of the lubromoly when you do it. I heard a few months ago that the
lubromoly was available at advane so I checked, btu they didn't have
any at my local advance. They did swear by seafoam though. The manager
there has an old diesel tuck and he said it really improves the
performance when he puts it in. I bought two cans but haven't done it
yet. It doesn't say on teh can that you can run it through the engine
straight like the lubromoly, but then again I don't think it says that
on the lubromoly either. Just food for thought.
 >> Stay informed about: How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D? 

weelliott DeleteThis @gmail.com wrote:
> On Jul 21, 7:49 pm, RF <R... DeleteThis @NoDen.con> wrote:
>> RF wrote:
>>> weelli... DeleteThis @gmail.com wrote:
>>>> On Jul 21, 1:14 am, RF <R... DeleteThis @NoDen.con> wrote:
>>>>> I have an old thread called Oil Spots on an Air
>>>>> Filter that is in the process of being deleted "
>>>>> Error! newsgroup server responded: Bad article
>>>>> number," so I'll take over here.
>>>>> I have used the adjustment screw on the rear of
>>>>> the IP to reduce the exhaust smoke from the 240D.
>>>>> The reduction was considerable but it is still
>>>>> smoky. There is no blue color - it's now grey.
>>>>> The question is just how clear should the smoke
>>>>> be? Subjective question I know but efforts will be
>>>>> appreciated.
>>>> Once my 300D turbodiesel is warmed up the exhaust is perfectly clear.
>>>> If I am following my car and the driver floors it there is a light
>>>> hint of smoke at low speeds, but over 15 or 20 the car is moving along
>>>> enough that you can't even detect it. And it is set pretty rich too.
>>>> You really shouldn't be able to detect any smoke either while it is
>>>> warm and idling or while driving.
>>> Thanks WE.
>>> My engine was not hot when I last checked the exhaust. I'll take a run
>>> soon and will then check the exhaust color.
>>> Have a great week
>> I had my run and got the engine normal operating
>> temperature but there was no great change in the
>> smoke condition.
>>
>> Now I am thinking of 3 tasks that could help it.
>>
>> 1 Do the purge on the IP and injectors.
>> DieselGiant has an article on this and it seems
>> like they used a soft drink plastic bottle to hold
>> the purging fluid, with two holes in the cap, two
>> short hoses, one to the IP inline filter and the
>> other to the top of the spin filter. The IP sucks
>> the fluid out, some of which burns as the engine
>> runs and the rest returns to the bottle.http://dieselgiant.com/injectorcleaning.htm This
>> is for an OM617 but the pictures look like my 616.
>>
>> 2 Adjust the valves. This looks straightforward.
>>
>> 3 Adjust the timing chain. Info on this one seems
>> to be lacking. The MBZ manual, and DieselGiant
>> describe the replacement of the chain but I can't
>> find any instructions for adjusting the tension.
>> Is it simply a matter of adjusting the tension
>> bolt until the noise is a minimum or is there
>> another criterion?
>>
>> TIA- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> I would definitely suggest #1. The purge gave my car a lot of power.
> If it is dirty in there all sorts of bad stuff can go on. Use two cans
> of the lubromoly when you do it. I heard a few months ago that the
> lubromoly was available at advane so I checked, btu they didn't have
> any at my local advance. They did swear by seafoam though. The manager
> there has an old diesel tuck and he said it really improves the
> performance when he puts it in. I bought two cans but haven't done it
> yet. It doesn't say on teh can that you can run it through the engine
> straight like the lubromoly, but then again I don't think it says that
> on the lubromoly either. Just food for thought.

Thanks WEE.

Nobody in northern CA seems to know anything about
the purge so I had to order it
from San Diego.

Meantime, I got on with #2 and adjusted the
valves. Interestingly, 3 of the 4
exhaust valves were right on target - 0.3mm. The
4th was 0.2 mm. One of the
inlet valves was 0.1mm. The other 3 inlets had no
clearance at all. - Phew! However,
they had not been adjusted for about 10 years -
yeah, I know

Now I have the IP problem again - the peeing
manual pump (MP).
I had to remove the complete fuel pump (FP) to
replace the MP*. About a pint of oil drained out
and getting the connection on the IP cleaned up
and the gasket scraped off was an unpleasant 2
hours of work. I disconnected the output fuel line
just at the fuel pump and the inlet fuel line
right after the inline filter, and then removed
the FP.
Removing the old MP and replacing it was then very
easy.

I then had a look into the fuel-out line of the
pump. It has a dinky little delivery valve
under a collar - the manual calls it a holder.
This holder is a tube of about 1/2" diameter and
1/2" tall. A gap of about 1/4" wide is cut along
the length of this collar. I'm curious to know the
reason for this construction. When the pipe
connection from the outlet line is threaded down
into place it goes down outside this collar. The
gap in the collar could be facing any direction -
for example, it could be facing the inlet port of
the incoming fuel or facing in the opposite
direction. There seems to be no way to hold it
facing the inlet port, which seems to be the most
logical direction for it to face.
Enlightenment here would be appreciated.



*This was a typical example of manufacturers
minimizing the materials and crowding
the componments so close together that, for
maintenance or repair, the time and cost are far
higher. One small change at the base of that FP
would allow a wrench to reach the MP, so it could
be replaced in a matter of a few minutes. Does any
manufacturer pay attention to maintenance and
repair tasks?

TIA
 >> Stay informed about: How clear should the exhaust be from a 240D?