merc 190E non starter

Is the problem sudden? Or did it come on gradually?

Did it begin after some engine work? If so what, exactly was done.

If this engine used an electronically measured intake airflow sensor I'd
say to test the MAS with an ohm meter.

You checked for vacuum leaks and found none, go one further step by
disconnecting the vacuum brake booster and plugging its vacuum hose.
This eliminates the brake booster as a potentially large vacuum leak.

Very badly retarded ignition timing would cause the symptoms you
describe. Anyone touch the ignition timing?

IMHO the cold start system can be excluded because the engine won't idle
when it's running. The cold start system works only during cranking and
the first few seconds of running so it can be excluded.

Another poster suggested bad fuel - can't disagree. Unfortunately it's
hard to substitute good fuel without draining the whole tank etc. if
only to find that's NOT the cause. Of course if you have reason to
question the fuel's quality then I'd move this possibility higher in the
priority list.

Plug brake booster's hose, check ignition timing and then, if nothing
found, drain the fuel tank - in that order.
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter 

many thanks for your informative reply,
it turned out it was the fuel pump, but for some reason took a while to
either build up pressure or to bleed itself,
never had problems before with petrol engine fuel systems needing time to
bleed air from the system, but either way it seems to be fine now.
regards.
steve.

"T.G. Lambach" <tlambach DeleteThis @comcast.net> wrote in message
news:qc6dnaAaq_mps5nfRVn-pg@comcast.com...
 > Is the problem sudden? Or did it come on gradually?
 >
 > Did it begin after some engine work? If so what, exactly was done.
 >
 > If this engine used an electronically measured intake airflow sensor I'd
 > say to test the MAS with an ohm meter.
 >
 > You checked for vacuum leaks and found none, go one further step by
 > disconnecting the vacuum brake booster and plugging its vacuum hose.
 > This eliminates the brake booster as a potentially large vacuum leak.
 >
 > Very badly retarded ignition timing would cause the symptoms you
 > describe. Anyone touch the ignition timing?
 >
 > IMHO the cold start system can be excluded because the engine won't idle
 > when it's running. The cold start system works only during cranking and
 > the first few seconds of running so it can be excluded.
 >
 > Another poster suggested bad fuel - can't disagree. Unfortunately it's
 > hard to substitute good fuel without draining the whole tank etc. if
 > only to find that's NOT the cause. Of course if you have reason to
 > question the fuel's quality then I'd move this possibility higher in the
 > priority list.
 >
 > Plug brake booster's hose, check ignition timing and then, if nothing
 > found, drain the fuel tank - in that order.
 ><!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter 

TO TG LAMBACH
I have a similar prob with my 92 190e, 2.3 L sedan. When I turn the
ignition on, all the electrical works and the fan turns on making a
szhheeuu noise and then turns off, and the car doesn't stay on. What is
the first step my mechanic needs to check- step by step- in order to get
the car up and running again.

I really value your feedback,

April
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter 

OK, April, let's begin.

I don't understand your reference to a "similar problem." Whose problem
- give a reference so I can look at it.

Let's go through this one.

You turn the key to ON, not start, and the instruments light etc.

What fan comes on? The heater fan? Or a fan under the hood?

Then, you turn the key to START and the starter cranks the engine? RRRRRR

The engine starts but immediately quits? And won't start thereafter?

When did the problem start and who has looked at it?

I await your reply.

Tom
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter 

This problem began about a less than a week ago, after I purchased the car
from a guy that said it probably needed a new timing chain in order to
start and run the engine. My mechanic did some work on it to check the
electrical, however, when I turn the key to the on position the lights and
the fan and everything turns on, then when I turn the key all the way on,
the motor does not make a rummhhhrummmhh noise at all and the engine fan
turns a little but then stops.
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter 

You bought a used car without knowing if its engine ran???

So now, when you turn the key to START there's no RRRRR from the starter
and the engine's fan moves a bit.

Your mechanic looked at the electrical and said ________________?
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter 

April,

I suggest you take your car to a good Merc. Mechanic. It could be an
engine problem (timing) or an electrical like dead battery, bad
starter, damaged or bad wiring.

Good luck
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter 

my experience is that it is 'often' a simple problem and, typically, we look
for more esoteric causes. Check your battery and fuses etc. Case in point,
I just finished fiddling with my '93 190e that was running rough ... it was
missing on #2 cylinder. Having recently replaced my plugs (Champions) I
ignored these and kept working, reworking, and reworking again ignition parts
like distributor, rotor and wiring etc..... couldn't get it work .... finally
checked thos g.. damn Champion plugs..... of course that particular one had
an open circuit. Lesson, don't buy Champion ever.

cheers and good luck in finding your difficulty


Ii article <1128706168.396297.211780.RemoveThis@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
saeef <saif.abri.RemoveThis@pdo.co.om> wrote:
>April,
>
>I suggest you take your car to a good Merc. Mechanic. It could be an
>engine problem (timing) or an electrical like dead battery, bad
>starter, damaged or bad wiring.
>
>Good luck
>
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter 

On 2005-10-07 10:51:01 -0700, scholz.RemoveThis@sciborg.uwaterloo.ca (Guenter
Scholz) said:

> my experience is that it is 'often' a simple problem and, typically, we look
> for more esoteric causes. Check your battery and fuses etc. Case in point,
> I just finished fiddling with my '93 190e that was running rough ... it was
> missing on #2 cylinder. Having recently replaced my plugs (Champions) I
> ignored these and kept working, reworking, and reworking again ignition parts
> like distributor, rotor and wiring etc..... couldn't get it work .... finally
> checked thos g.. damn Champion plugs..... of course that particular one had
> an open circuit. Lesson, don't buy Champion ever.
>
> cheers and good luck in finding your difficulty
>

Huh, a spark plug is supposed to be an open circuit.

Marty
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter 

In article <2005100722555916807%mercedes@barknaturalpetcom>,
Martin Joseph <mercedes.RemoveThis@barknaturalpet.com> wrote:
>On 2005-10-07 10:51:01 -0700, scholz.RemoveThis@sciborg.uwaterloo.ca (Guenter
>Scholz) said:
>
>> checked thos g.. damn Champion plugs..... of course that particular one had
>> an open circuit. Lesson, don't buy Champion ever.
>>
>
>Huh, a spark plug is supposed to be an open circuit.
>
sure, to the outside 'pin' ... but short circuit to the inside pinn.
Having said all that, however, after a couple of days I'm back to rough
running and cylinder #2 is still missing. I notice though that if I simply
open the distributor and wipe the cap on the inside, that helps a lot to
make it run smoother .... I don't get it. The distributor cap looks OK, a
bit scratched up maybe but no noticeable cracks or anything .... I'm starting
to guess that there is maye a few problem causing items interacting. But, still
, simply wiping the cap's inside helping a lot to make the car run smoother
should be telling me something..... but what

cheers
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter 

On Sat, 8 Oct 2005 13:33:21 +0000 (UTC), scholz DeleteThis @sciborg.uwaterloo.ca
(Guenter Scholz) wrote:

>In article <2005100722555916807%mercedes@barknaturalpetcom>,
>Martin Joseph <mercedes DeleteThis @barknaturalpet.com> wrote:
>>On 2005-10-07 10:51:01 -0700, scholz DeleteThis @sciborg.uwaterloo.ca (Guenter
>>Scholz) said:
>>
>>> checked thos g.. damn Champion plugs..... of course that particular one had
>>> an open circuit. Lesson, don't buy Champion ever.
>>>
>>
>>Huh, a spark plug is supposed to be an open circuit.
>>
> sure, to the outside 'pin' ... but short circuit to the inside pinn.
>Having said all that, however, after a couple of days I'm back to rough
>running and cylinder #2 is still missing. I notice though that if I simply
>open the distributor and wipe the cap on the inside, that helps a lot to
>make it run smoother .... I don't get it. The distributor cap looks OK, a
>bit scratched up maybe but no noticeable cracks or anything .... I'm starting
>to guess that there is maye a few problem causing items interacting. But, still
>, simply wiping the cap's inside helping a lot to make the car run smoother
>should be telling me something..... but what
>
>cheers
>

Just for grins, try removing the distributor cap and replacing it
without wiping it out, and see if that temporarily makes a difference.

On small-diameter distributor caps, the air inside can get ionized and
cause spark jumping and misfiring. I don't know how long the air
stays ionized after the engine stops running, but if you put the cap
back on without wiping it out and the car still runs smoother for a
while, that might have something to do with it.

MSD, the ignition company, recommends drilling small holes in the
distributor cap to help exchange the air if you have a small
distributor cap. I've gotten two suggestions from them. One was to
drill 1/8" holes around the cap, at rotor-height and evenly-spaced
between the terminals. The other was to drill two 1/8" holes near the
base of the cap, on opposite sides of each other, and preferably away
from the cap hold-down points.

If you have a spare cap lying around, or if you're willing to
experiment with your current one, it's worth a try.

--
Scott Gardner

"Discordianism: Where reality is a figment of your imagination."
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter 

On 2005-10-08 06:33:21 -0700, scholz.TakeThisOut@sciborg.uwaterloo.ca (Guenter
Scholz) said:

> In article <2005100722555916807%mercedes@barknaturalpetcom>,
> Martin Joseph <mercedes.TakeThisOut@barknaturalpet.com> wrote:
>> On 2005-10-07 10:51:01 -0700, scholz.TakeThisOut@sciborg.uwaterloo.ca (Guenter
>> Scholz) said:
>>
>>> checked thos g.. damn Champion plugs..... of course that particular one had
>>> an open circuit. Lesson, don't buy Champion ever.
>>>
>>
>> Huh, a spark plug is supposed to be an open circuit.
>>
> sure, to the outside 'pin' ... but short circuit to the inside pinn.
> Having said all that, however, after a couple of days I'm back to rough
> running and cylinder #2 is still missing. I notice though that if I simply
> open the distributor and wipe the cap on the inside, that helps a lot to
> make it run smoother ....
Maybe there is a gasket missing and moisture is building up in there?
Or perhaps there is a vent that is plugged? I personally would replace
the cap and rotor.


Marty

PS Are you going to apologize to the Champion people :~)
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter 

He said it was the alarm on the ignition switch, however he was very wrong
because then when my mechanic looked at the car the second time he came
over , he took it apart-the engine and the camshaft had defects: the
camshaft was broken on the end and the cylinder head or gasket set????
needs new valves -should I have them soddered at a machine shop or buy
used ones? I do not have much money to play with as I payed the guy 750
for the mercedes, then he says the cylinder head and valves need
replacing. This was done on Tuesday and Wednesday of last week.

I hope you can tell me what the best way to go about it is, you seem like
you know a lot about Mercedes and it is nice to know someone can help.
 >> Stay informed about: merc 190E non starter