Welcome to AutoBoardz.com!
FAQFAQ    SearchSearch      ProfileProfile    Private MessagesPrivate Messages   Log inLog in

Buying an E36 M3

 
   AutoBoardz 2 (Home) -> BMW RSS
Next:  Looking for Montgomery County Mechanic  
Author Message
SP1

External


Since: Jan 07, 2004
Posts: 1



(Msg. 1) Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2004 10:56 pm
Post subject: Buying an E36 M3
Archived from groups: alt>autos>bmw (more info?)

I am looking to buy a '97 E36 M3, it has 60k miles on it. What should
I look for? What are the things that will need attention? I have a '94
325is that has needed new shocks and VANOS work around that mileage.

I will appreciate any advice on the aftermarket
components/applications with this car Smile

Thanks!

 >> Stay informed about: Buying an E36 M3 
Back to top
Login to vote
salligator

External


Since: Jan 25, 2004
Posts: 8



(Msg. 2) Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2004 6:59 pm
Post subject: Re: Buying an E36 M3 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"SP" wrote in message

 > I am looking to buy a '97 E36 M3, it has 60k miles on it. What should
 > I look for? What are the things that will need attention? I have a '94
 > 325is that has needed new shocks and VANOS work around that mileage.
 >
 > I will appreciate any advice on the aftermarket
 > components/applications with this car Smile
 >
 > Thanks!

The most expensive problem is the metal under the runk carpet might be
damaged by the rear struts or big bumps. This is VERY expensive to fix.

Other known E36 M3 problems are:
clutch mechanism may need replacing ( lots of squeaking). Entire clutch
mechanism needs replacing if silicone sprary won't fix.
transmission may fall out of 2nd gear on hard accelleration in a left turn.
solution is a new transmission.

They are great cars, and a lot of fun, particularly if you live where it
does not snow.

 >> Stay informed about: Buying an E36 M3 
Back to top
Login to vote
daytripper

External


Since: Dec 09, 2003
Posts: 63



(Msg. 3) Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 12:24 am
Post subject: Re: Buying an E36 M3 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

On 7 Jan 2004 21:56:22 -0800, (SP) wrote:

 >I am looking to buy a '97 E36 M3, it has 60k miles on it. What should
 >I look for? What are the things that will need attention? I have a '94
 >325is that has needed new shocks and VANOS work around that mileage.
 >
 >I will appreciate any advice on the aftermarket
 >components/applications with this car Smile
 >
 >Thanks!

Failed plastic water pump impellers and torn-out rear suspension mounts seems
to be two of the more popular gotchas...
 >> Stay informed about: Buying an E36 M3 
Back to top
Login to vote
adder

External


Since: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 32



(Msg. 4) Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 12:54 am
Post subject: Re: Buying an E36 M3 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

daytripper wrote in message ...

 >
  > >I am looking to buy a '97 E36 M3, it has 60k miles on it. What should
  > >I look for? What are the things that will need attention? I have a '94
  > >325is that has needed new shocks and VANOS work around that mileage.
  > >
  > >I will appreciate any advice on the aftermarket
  > >components/applications with this car Smile
  > >
  > >Thanks!
 >
 > Failed plastic water pump impellers and torn-out rear suspension mounts seems
 > to be two of the more popular gotchas...

Just search on google - this kind of question has been asked so many
times.
At 60k miles the suspension might need some attention but on the whole
it should go another 60k without any trouble.
 >> Stay informed about: Buying an E36 M3 
Back to top
Login to vote
Phil1

External


Since: Dec 22, 2003
Posts: 28



(Msg. 5) Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2004 4:51 am
Post subject: Re: Buying an E36 M3 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

I have a '98 E36 M3, and can tell you a few things to look for.

One, rear shock mounts do fail on a regular basis. Mine last about 25,000
miles, and that is mostly freeway driving, but on very poor California
roads. Ignore the failing mounts, and the supporting sheet metal can be
beat up, which would be costly to fix. The water pump impeller was plastic
in 1995, and would fail in time, but metal impellers were used in later
years. The clutch squeak is in the mechanism under the dash. Aftermarket
bushings are available to fix this, but it is a real pain to change the
bushings. The bushings are around $20, but the labor would be much more.
Mine squeaks in hot weather. I have not heard of the transmission jumping
out of gear, but people do shift into a lower gear than anticipated under
very hard driving sometimes, because the entire transmission will twist on
its mount, altering the position of the gear gates. People sometimes will
grab second, when they meant fourth, and this overspeeds the engine, which
by the way is intolerant of that. Valve train damage and/or bottom end
failure results. The engine can not be over revved on acceleration as it
has a rev limiter. More troubling with '98 and '99 cars is a tendency for
the gear lever to stay over to the far right when the transmission is cold.
Apparently a change was made to the ZF gearbox in late '97 or so, that
results in this. The result is that the 3rd and 4th gear gates seem to
disappear. Annoying, and my car does this, but so far, not a big problem.
The fix is replacing the transmission. In California, at my shop, the
transmission, rebuilt, from BMW is $1,705. With labor and tax, the cost
nears $2,500.

My M3 has been quite reliable, more so than either of the two Hondas I have.
The M3 does eat rear tires, even with easy driving. With a light foot,
figure 35k at the most. My neighbor had an M3 and he burned through a set
of Michelin Pilots in 10,000 miles. The Goodyear F1 GS-D3 tires on my M3
are very good, seem to last, and have incredible wet weather performance.
AND, they are quiet! The clutch last well enough, but if it begins to slip,
STOP driving. Burning the clutch can require a very expensive flywheel.

This car is geared short, which means you should be prepared for some engine
hum at high cruising speeds. The car uses a 3.23 axle and 5th is 1 to 1, 60
mph is about 2700 rpm. 80 mph has the engine buzzing along at 3600 revs,
which if the radio is off, can get a bit tiring. On the other hand, top
gear passing power is strong.

Never leave the gas cap loose or off. The "check engine" light will come
on. The car uses synthetic 5W-30 oil, and BMW synthetic is actually priced
very competitively. Surprisingly, my M3 uses virtually no oil at all with
the BMW oil, but will use oil when I go to Mobil 1. Mobil 1 consumption is
quite low however.

If draining the oil, get a big container. The 7 quarts fills to the brim
most oil catch pans. Brake dust is a major annoyance. The dust buildup is
rapid and heavy. Make sure you have the radio code card! Most vehicles
require you enter this code to make the radio work again if power (battery)
is disconnected. Spare tire should be a full size front wheel. Squeaks
sometimes come from the leather. I use a product from <a rel="nofollow" style='text-decoration: none;' href="http://www.leatherique.com" target="_blank">www.leatherique.com</a>
to maintain the leather. However, the gray leather in my car is not very
durable, cracking easily and the dye wearing off on the outside seat
bolster. I have heard of this problem before.

Seats in the sedan, like mine, are not comfy on long trips. Heard this
before as well. Lower back hurts. No adjustment helps. Coupe seats are
different, but not sure about '97 models.

My car has 68,000 miles with no unusual repairs or problems. Tons of
aftermarket stuff for the car, but I like my car just fine the way it is, so
no experience with this equipment.

Hope this helps.

- Phil

"SP" wrote in message

 > I am looking to buy a '97 E36 M3, it has 60k miles on it. What should
 > I look for? What are the things that will need attention? I have a '94
 > 325is that has needed new shocks and VANOS work around that mileage.
 >
 > I will appreciate any advice on the aftermarket
 > components/applications with this car Smile
 >
 > Thanks!
 >> Stay informed about: Buying an E36 M3 
Back to top
Login to vote
dizzy1

External


Since: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 80



(Msg. 6) Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2004 1:00 am
Post subject: Re: Buying an E36 M3 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

On Fri, 09 Jan 2004 03:51:13 GMT, "Phil" wrote:

 >
 >Hope this helps.

Christ, it helped me, and I'm not even in the market!

Cool
 >> Stay informed about: Buying an E36 M3 
Back to top
Login to vote
salligator

External


Since: Jan 25, 2004
Posts: 8



(Msg. 7) Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2004 6:24 am
Post subject: Re: Buying an E36 M3 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"adder" wrote in message


...

  > >
   > > >I am looking to buy a '97 E36 M3, it has 60k miles on it. What should
   > > >I look for? What are the things that will need attention? I have a '94
   > > >325is that has needed new shocks and VANOS work around that mileage.
   > > >
   > > >I will appreciate any advice on the aftermarket
   > > >components/applications with this car Smile
   > > >

another place to look is in the tech section of the Roundel BMW Club
magazine. For example the transmission problem I mentioned was described in
the Roundel magazine tech section.

There seemd to be an option called "comfort seats". My 99 M3 convertible
came with them and offer almost total ride comfort. You can literally drive
10-12 hours straight with only stops for gas, and your back feels fine.

Something else to watch for is non BMW electronics added in. This may get
some people mad, but check who installed non BMW electronics. There are
lots of computers involved in all E36 BMSw and the way electrical problems
are fixed is by replacing FRUs at a few hundred dollars each.

As fir tires, the Michlin Pilot sports that are OEM equipment seem to have a
13000-15000 lifetime. I replaced them with Toyo T1S Proxies and have had
much better luck, although the rears are shot at 15000 miles.
 >> Stay informed about: Buying an E36 M3 
Back to top
Login to vote
Greg Gentry

External


Since: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 4



(Msg. 8) Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 2:39 am
Post subject: Re: Buying an E36 M3 [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"SP" wrote in message

 > I am looking to buy a '97 E36 M3, it has 60k miles on it. What should
 > I look for? What are the things that will need attention? I have a '94
 > 325is that has needed new shocks and VANOS work around that mileage.
 >
 > I will appreciate any advice on the aftermarket
 > components/applications with this car Smile
 >
 > Thanks!
 >> Stay informed about: Buying an E36 M3 
Back to top
Login to vote
Display posts from previous:   
Related Topics:
Buying a Z3 - I recently bought a new 318i Sport for the missus but love it so much I get jealous whenever she takes it out. Not really being a fan of BMW's previously, I'm now so impressed that I'm thinking of replacing my car with a Z3. Can anyone give me some..

Buying a 7 series - Hi, I'm looking at possibley buying a second hand 7 series (around 5-10 years old). Are there any comments on the various models that I should know/be aware of? (pros, cons, what to look-out for etc..) Any help would be appreciated. --- Outgoing..

Buying or Leasing a new our used automobile soon? - I have been in the automobile industry for some years. I have been providing a service to help customers not get taken by dealerships for some time. I know every angle of the business and offer to customers right over the Internet. I have put together...

Buying a used BMW...UK - I am looking to buy a car,and BMW is on my want list ,budget is only £3000 max. I have seen a few on the net for sale,most seem to be 93-94 (year).Are BMWs of this sort of age OK?Reliability wise?Are there certain models that I should avoid?What about..

Buying 1992 535i - Expected Failures? - I'm about to purchase a 1992 535i 5-spd manual with 82k miles. It has only had one owner and is in great condition (apparently). What items are most likely to fail in the next 30k miles (2 years)? Timing chain? Head gasket? Are either of these jobs ones ...
   AutoBoardz 2 (Home) -> BMW All times are: Pacific Time (US & Canada)
Page 1 of 1

 
You can post new topics in this forum
You can reply to topics in this forum
You can edit your posts in this forum
You can delete your posts in this forum
You can vote in polls in this forum



[ Contact us | Terms of Service/Privacy Policy ]