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WRX with Sudden Noise and Power Issue

 
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suburboturbo

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Since: May 31, 2007
Posts: 35



(Msg. 1) Posted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 6:34 pm
Post subject: WRX with Sudden Noise and Power Issue
Archived from groups: alt>autos>subaru (more info?)

On friday my 2004 WRX suddenly began chattering as I reached 3000 rpm
or so. My first thought was a loose heat shield on he catalytic
converter or elsewhere in the exhaust system. Decelerating in gear,
the noise got louder, almost as if an exhaust leak or turbo blow-off
valve. Noise now appears at lower speeds, power is down, and car is
difficult to start, with engine cranking very slowly. I'm limiting
driving to essential travel, and have a dealer appointment tuesday
(car still under warranty). Gets regular maintenance, required
octane, and never abused, but driven to the car's capabilities,
otherwise I wouldn't have a WRX. Any ideas? Burnt valve? Turbo
issue (first occured to me hat noise became evident just as turbo was
kicking in). Exhaust leak or is that too simple? Appreciate any
input before throwing myself on the mercy of the dealer service dept,
although they've done alright by my wife's car.

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Stewart DIBBS

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Since: May 02, 2005
Posts: 313



(Msg. 2) Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 7:34 am
Post subject: Re: WRX with Sudden Noise and Power Issue [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"suburboturbo" <vjp1.TakeThisOut@westchestergov.com> wrote in message
news:68b15df4-9a55-445b-901e-b3080fe52fb3@8g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> On friday my 2004 WRX suddenly began chattering as I reached 3000 rpm
> or so. My first thought was a loose heat shield on he catalytic
> converter or elsewhere in the exhaust system. Decelerating in gear,
> the noise got louder, almost as if an exhaust leak or turbo blow-off
> valve.

If power is down I'd say that the turbo has broken an impeller or compressor
vane or two (or five...), or perhaps its done in the spindle bearing. Could
be as simple as an exhaust leak on the manifold where the turbo is fitted.
Let the dealer handle it.

If its a compressor vane, ENSURE that the dealer takes the intercooler and
hoses off and cleans them to ensure that there's no little bits of vane
being injested.

Years ago I had a Mazda 323 GTX AWD that fragged the turbo. The engine ran
noticably rougher (thouhg still very well) ever after...

SD

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suburboturbo

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Since: May 31, 2007
Posts: 35



(Msg. 3) Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:36 am
Post subject: Re: WRX with Sudden Noise and Power Issue [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

On Mar 10, 7:34 am, "Stewart DIBBS" <s....RemoveThis@pixcl.com> wrote:
> "suburboturbo" <v....RemoveThis@westchestergov.com> wrote in message
>
> news:68b15df4-9a55-445b-901e-b3080fe52fb3@8g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
>
> > On friday my 2004 WRX suddenly began chattering as I reached 3000 rpm
> > or so.  My first thought was a loose heat shield on he catalytic
> > converter or elsewhere in the exhaust system.  Decelerating in gear,
> > the noise got louder, almost as if an exhaust leak or turbo blow-off
> > valve.
>
> If power is down I'd say that the turbo has broken an impeller or compressor
> vane or two (or five...), or perhaps its done in the spindle bearing. Could
> be as simple as an exhaust leak on the manifold where the turbo is fitted.
> Let the dealer handle it.
>
> If its a compressor vane, ENSURE that the dealer takes the intercooler and
> hoses off and cleans them to ensure that there's no little bits of vane
> being injested.
>
> Years ago I had a Mazda 323 GTX AWD that fragged the turbo. The engine ran
> noticably rougher (thouhg still very well) ever after...
>
> SD

Worse than I thought. Seemed drivable, so I headed to the dealer
(about 3 miles away). Within 1/2 mile the minor chatter became a full
blown racket, power dropped to near zero, stalled, wouldn't restart,
and I coasted to a stop. Was able to push to a side street with the
assistance of a couple of helpful strangers, but had to be towed
(flatbed) to dealer. Waiting to hear the diagnosis. If it was the
turbo, I hope it didn't send any fragments downstream. Can't figure
what else unless the valvetrain came apart. No odd sounds from
alternator or fans, no electrical problem; couldn't find any vacuum or
exhaust leaks. Fortunately, and this was the only time I ever did
this, I purchased a 6y/60k extended warranty from Subaru of America to
ensure the turbo was covered. I've had the car for 4 years and 40k.
Have good maintenance records, although I didn't have the dealer do
30k service (have a trusted local shop that went through the
checklist, replaced the serpentine belt and radiator hoses-probably
could have covered under warranty, but wasn't expensive and these guys
treat me well). Let's see what happens.
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suburboturbo

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Since: May 31, 2007
Posts: 35



(Msg. 4) Posted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 12:49 pm
Post subject: Re: WRX with Sudden Noise and Power Issue [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

On Mar 11, 11:36 am, suburboturbo <v....DeleteThis@westchestergov.com> wrote:
> On Mar 10, 7:34 am, "Stewart DIBBS" <s....DeleteThis@pixcl.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "suburboturbo" <v....DeleteThis@westchestergov.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:68b15df4-9a55-445b-901e-b3080fe52fb3@8g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
>
> > > On friday my 2004 WRX suddenly began chattering as I reached 3000 rpm
> > > or so.  My first thought was a loose heat shield on he catalytic
> > > converter or elsewhere in the exhaust system.  Decelerating in gear,
> > > the noise got louder, almost as if an exhaust leak or turbo blow-off
> > > valve.
>
> > If power is down I'd say that the turbo has broken an impeller or compressor
> > vane or two (or five...), or perhaps its done in the spindle bearing. Could
> > be as simple as an exhaust leak on the manifold where the turbo is fitted.
> > Let the dealer handle it.
>
> > If its a compressor vane, ENSURE that the dealer takes the intercooler and
> > hoses off and cleans them to ensure that there's no little bits of vane
> > being injested.
>
> > Years ago I had a Mazda 323 GTX AWD that fragged the turbo. The engine ran
> > noticably rougher (thouhg still very well) ever after...
>
> > SD
>
> Worse than I thought.  Seemed drivable, so I headed to the dealer
> (about 3 miles away).  Within 1/2 mile the minor chatter became a full
> blown racket, power dropped to near zero, stalled, wouldn't restart,
> and I coasted to a stop.  Was able to push to a side street with the
> assistance of a couple of helpful strangers, but had to be towed
> (flatbed) to dealer.  Waiting to hear the diagnosis.  If it was the
> turbo, I hope it didn't send any fragments downstream. Can't figure
> what else unless the valvetrain came apart.  No odd sounds from
> alternator or fans, no electrical problem; couldn't find any vacuum or
> exhaust leaks.  Fortunately, and this was the only time I ever did
> this, I purchased a 6y/60k extended warranty from Subaru of America to
> ensure the turbo was covered.  I've had the car for 4 years and 40k.
> Have good maintenance records, although I didn't have the dealer do
> 30k service (have a trusted local shop that went through the
> checklist, replaced the serpentine belt and radiator hoses-probably
> could have covered under warranty, but wasn't expensive and these guys
> treat me well).  Let's see what happens.- Hide quoted text -
>

Well, Subaru wouldn't even put the car on a lift until I would provide
service records. Luckily I kept receipts and oil filter boxes for my
own oil changes, and invoices for any other work that was done
(usually had 2 changes a year done at tire shops that swapped my
summer/winter tires). After I faxed them 11 pages of documentation,
they agreed to open it up. Service manager says it threw at least a
rod bearing, maybe chewed up the mains as well and is recommending a
full short block replacement under warranty, but is waiting for the
district rep to look at it and make a final determination. Car has
never been driven that hard. Anyone else know of bearing problems in
the turbo 2.0? Been using Castrol 5w-30, as per spec, changed every
3000 miles or so.
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