Voltage regulator--'63 Lark R1

My local Chevy dealer told me I needed a new battery in my Lark during
a quickie oil change there about six weeks ago. I did think it had
been cranking slower of late.

About two weeks after the new battery, I noticed slow cranking again.
It left me stranded outside a shop about two weeks ago. Once jumped,
it started right up.

I took it back to the Chevy dealer. They replaced the battery again
and said it needs a voltage regulator which they ordered based on
removing the one that was on the car. I have an appt. for them to
install it Fri. a.m. BTW, the alternator is a rebuilt one installed
about a year and half ago by a Stude restoration shop. The Chevy
dealer says the alternator is OK.

A friend told me on the phone today that there is some kind of a
certain "polarization" procedure (?) that needs to be done when
installing a Stude voltage regulator and that I should review the shop
manual procedure and make sure the mechanics at the dealership know
about this. I'm a mechanical dummy pretty much, and my friend, while
no mechanic, is more advanced in this area than me and says he
remembers his Dad doing some kind of "polarization" procedure on his
Studes way back when, during voltage regulator replacement.

I'm out of town for a few days and not near a shop manual. Anybody
know what my friend is talking about?

Thanks,
Bill Pressler
Kent, OH

D'OH!!!!!

I think he said it was $30!! plus "about an hour" of labor!!!

I wish:
1) I was more patient
2) I didn't get tired so easily
3) I was home more often
4) My Dad hadn't talked me out of taking auto repair classes at the
local Vo-Tech school during high school!!

Bill Pressler

John Poulos wrote:
> He's talking about a generator equipped earlier car. BTW, the regulator
> is a $10.00 item at the parts store and takes 10 minutes to install. i
> bet you paid more. <g>
>
> billslark.DeleteThis@aol.com wrote:
> > My local Chevy dealer told me I needed a new battery in my Lark during
> > a quickie oil change there about six weeks ago. I did think it had
> > been cranking slower of late.
> >
> > About two weeks after the new battery, I noticed slow cranking again.
> > It left me stranded outside a shop about two weeks ago. Once jumped,
> > it started right up.
> >
> > I took it back to the Chevy dealer. They replaced the battery again
> > and said it needs a voltage regulator which they ordered based on
> > removing the one that was on the car. I have an appt. for them to
> > install it Fri. a.m. BTW, the alternator is a rebuilt one installed
> > about a year and half ago by a Stude restoration shop. The Chevy
> > dealer says the alternator is OK.
> >
> > A friend told me on the phone today that there is some kind of a
> > certain "polarization" procedure (?) that needs to be done when
> > installing a Stude voltage regulator and that I should review the shop
> > manual procedure and make sure the mechanics at the dealership know
> > about this. I'm a mechanical dummy pretty much, and my friend, while
> > no mechanic, is more advanced in this area than me and says he
> > remembers his Dad doing some kind of "polarization" procedure on his
> > Studes way back when, during voltage regulator replacement.
> >
> > I'm out of town for a few days and not near a shop manual. Anybody
> > know what my friend is talking about?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bill Pressler
> > Kent, OH
> >
>
>
> --
> JP/Maryland
> Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
> My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
> 64 Daytona HT
> 63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black)
> 63 R1 GT Hawk
> 63 Avanti R1
> 63 Avanti R2 (sold)
> 63 Daytona convert
> 62 Lark 2 door
> 60 Hawk
> 60 Lark Convert
> 57 Silver Hawk
> 51 Commander