Transmission problems

"Edward Hayes" <erhayes.DeleteThis@worldnet.att.net> wrote in news:F5wYg.69332
$QZ1.6379@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:

>
>

The AT light flashes 16 times, if that helps. Thanks!
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems 

Dave: My factory manual doesn't list a #16 code. Make sure that you
have the correct flash sequence. I will type what is in the manual. "A
LONG SEGMENT (1.2 SECONDS ON) INDICATES A TEN AND A SHORT SEGMENT (.02
SECONDS ON) SIGNIFIES A ONE" So one long and 6 short will be a 16
code. Hope this makes more sense. To clear the TMC code "remove fuse #
4 for longer than one minute"
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems 

"Edward Hayes" <erhayes.RemoveThis@worldnet.att.net> wrote in news:EYIYg.285531
$QM6.76297@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:

> Dave: My factory manual doesn't list a #16 code. Make sure that you
> have the correct flash sequence. I will type what is in the manual. "A
> LONG SEGMENT (1.2 SECONDS ON) INDICATES A TEN AND A SHORT SEGMENT (.02
> SECONDS ON) SIGNIFIES A ONE" So one long and 6 short will be a 16
> code. Hope this makes more sense. To clear the TMC code "remove fuse #
> 4 for longer than one minute"
>
>
>

The light flashes 16 times. To clarify a bit, when I turn the car on, the
light comes on with all the other instrument panel lights. When all the
lights go off a few seconds later, the AT light also goes off, then it
flashes quickly 16 times (probably "short segments", as your manual
describes), then turns off and stays off. Thanks again for the replies!
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems 

Dave: I rechecked my factory manual and there is no #16 transmission
error code. My book is for a 4eat and the manual is for a MY 2000.
Maybe your vehicle being older there was a code change? Hopefully
someone else will chime in here that has a manual for you MY.
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems 

Hi Dave,

I have the same year, model, with 190K km. Late Sept I started getting
the same set of symptoms, flashing AT TEMP light, binding on turns,
etc. I took the car into Subaru and they hooked up to the computer and
the code came back with the following quote:

Replace Transfer Clutch Valve Assembly, Transfer Clutch Plate Set, and
re-seal transmission oil pan.

Estimate $850 + tax (CDN), including labour

I haven't had the work done yet, since they would have to order the
parts, I need to find the money and the service rep said I could
still drive without doing any damage to the car. Basically, he said
the valve is likely stuck or busted so the front to back AWD power
ratio is 50-50, instead of the correct ratio (not sure what it is, but
more power is usually on the front, like 60-40).

If anyone else has a second opinion, or has found a solution without
changing the value as Subaru estimated, please post.



Dave N wrote:
> I have a '96 Outback 2.5, automatic transmission, that has developed
> troubling symptoms in the last couple weeks:
>
> 1) AT Oil Temp light flashes for awhile when I turn the car on.
> 2) Difficulty shifting. The shifter is harder to move than usual, and
> there's a bit of a "clunk" sound going in and out of D or R.
> 3) Odd feel in reverse. It used to be that I could apply a little gas,
> take my foot off the pedal, and coast back out of my driveway in reverse.
> Now, as soon as I release the pedal in reverse, the car stops.
>
> I've checked all the fluid levels, and they're fine. The fluid colors are
> fine, according to my Hayes manual. The car has just over 100K miles, and
> had its full service at 90K.
>
> Clearly I need to get it into a mechanic, but I'd like to have an idea of
> what the problem/diagnosis might be before I take it in. Any guesses?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems 

Lyons Net wrote:

> Hi Dave,
>
> I have the same year, model, with 190K km. Late Sept I started getting
> the same set of symptoms, flashing AT TEMP light, binding on turns,
> etc. I took the car into Subaru and they hooked up to the computer and
> the code came back with the following quote:
>
> Replace Transfer Clutch Valve Assembly, Transfer Clutch Plate Set, and
> re-seal transmission oil pan.
>
> Estimate $850 + tax (CDN), including labour
>
> I haven't had the work done yet, since they would have to order the
> parts, I need to find the money and the service rep said I could
> still drive without doing any damage to the car. Basically, he said
> the valve is likely stuck or busted so the front to back AWD power
> ratio is 50-50, instead of the correct ratio (not sure what it is, but
> more power is usually on the front, like 60-40).
>
> If anyone else has a second opinion, or has found a solution without
> changing the value as Subaru estimated, please post.
>
>
>
> Dave N wrote:
>
>>I have a '96 Outback 2.5, automatic transmission, that has developed
>>troubling symptoms in the last couple weeks:
>>
>>1) AT Oil Temp light flashes for awhile when I turn the car on.
>>2) Difficulty shifting. The shifter is harder to move than usual, and
>>there's a bit of a "clunk" sound going in and out of D or R.
>>3) Odd feel in reverse. It used to be that I could apply a little gas,
>>take my foot off the pedal, and coast back out of my driveway in reverse.
>>Now, as soon as I release the pedal in reverse, the car stops.
>>
>>I've checked all the fluid levels, and they're fine. The fluid colors are
>>fine, according to my Hayes manual. The car has just over 100K miles, and
>>had its full service at 90K.
>>
>>Clearly I need to get it into a mechanic, but I'd like to have an idea of
>>what the problem/diagnosis might be before I take it in. Any guesses?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Dave
>
>

Yes, it is the opinion of quite few folks at www.ultimatesubaru.org (and
elsewhere)that repeated 'flushes' or 'drain refill' cycles of xmission
fluid are worth the effort. Seems to clean-up gumminess in many cases.
Of course, its a better money saving effort if you do the labor
yourself. And if the problem has persisted for some time, the clutch
plates themselves may need replacing anyway. it's a gamble.

Carl


--
to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net)
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems 

I am not sure this will help everbody but anyone with a 1996 or 1997 Outback with the problem of binding when hard turning to left or right we just got from Subaru a pint at $10.00 of Mopar limited slip lube to try in the transmission and within a couple miles the binding was gone fixed and the 1996 was so bad I installed a switch in the inside of care to take it out of 4 wheel drive ha and if it works thats all that matters. This lube is for Mopar limited slips that are making noise or chattering when driven on the bottle.
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems 

Here's an update on my 96 OBW... I added a bottle of the limited slip
differential and the binding stopped within 10KM, although the AT OIL
TEMP light would still flash during startup. However, after about
500KM, the binding came back, but not as bad as previous. Now I am
hoping that it is a gummyness problem.

I have not gone back to Subaru to do the recommended repairs to the
clutch assembly yet, as the additive did have a temporary affect. So
my next task is to change the transmission fluid and see how that goes.
And I've not ruled out an entire transmission flush, but will see if
just a fluid change does the trick.

Cheers,


On Nov 10, 12:25 am, burdock <n... RemoveThis @000.com> wrote:
> I am not sure this will help everbody but anyone with a 1996 or 1997
> Outback with the problem of binding when hard turning to left or
> right we just got from Subaru a pint at $10.00 of Mopar limited slip
> lube to try in the transmission and within a couple miles the binding
> was gone fixed and the 1996 was so bad I installed a switch in the
> inside of care to take it out of 4 wheel drive ha and if it works
> thats all that matters. This lube is for Mopar limited slips that are
> making noise or chattering when driven on the bottle.
>
> "Carl 1 Lucky Texan" wrote:
> > Lyons Net wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Dave,
> > >
> > > I have the same year, model, with 190K km. Late Sept I
> > started getting
> > > the same set of symptoms, flashing AT TEMP light, binding on
> > turns,
> > > etc. I took the car into Subaru and they hooked up to the
> > computer and
> > > the code came back with the following quote:
> > >
> > > Replace Transfer Clutch Valve Assembly, Transfer Clutch
> > Plate Set, and
> > > re-seal transmission oil pan.
> > >
> > > Estimate $850 + tax (CDN), including labour
> > >
> > > I haven't had the work done yet, since they would have to
> > order the
> > > parts, I need to find the money and the service rep
> > said I could
> > > still drive without doing any damage to the car. Basically,
> > he said
> > > the valve is likely stuck or busted so the front to back AWD
> > power
> > > ratio is 50-50, instead of the correct ratio (not sure what
> > it is, but
> > > more power is usually on the front, like 60-40).
> > >
> > > If anyone else has a second opinion, or has found a solution
> > without
> > > changing the value as Subaru estimated, please post.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Dave N wrote:
> > >
> > >>I have a '96 Outback 2.5, automatic transmission, that has
> > developed
> > >>troubling symptoms in the last couple weeks:
> > >>
> > >>1) AT Oil Temp light flashes for awhile when I turn the car
> > on.
> > >>2) Difficulty shifting. The shifter is harder to move than
> > usual, and
> > >>there's a bit of a "clunk" sound going in and out of D or R.
> > >>3) Odd feel in reverse. It used to be that I could apply a
> > little gas,
> > >>take my foot off the pedal, and coast back out of my
> > driveway in reverse.
> > >>Now, as soon as I release the pedal in reverse, the car
> > stops.
> > >>
> > >>I've checked all the fluid levels, and they're fine. The
> > fluid colors are
> > >>fine, according to my Hayes manual. The car has just over
> > 100K miles, and
> > >>had its full service at 90K.
> > >>
> > >>Clearly I need to get it into a mechanic, but I'd like to
> > have an idea of
> > >>what the problem/diagnosis might be before I take it in.
> > Any guesses?
> > >>
> > >>Thanks,
> > >>Dave
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Yes, it is the opinion of quite few folks at
> >www.ultimatesubaru.org(and
> > elsewhere)that repeated 'flushes' or 'drain refill' cycles of
> > xmission
> > fluid are worth the effort. Seems to clean-up gumminess in
> > many cases.
> > Of course, its a better money saving effort if you do the
> > labor
> > yourself. And if the problem has persisted for some time, the
> > clutch
> > plates themselves may need replacing anyway. it's a gamble.
> >
> > Carl
> >
> >
> > --
> > to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net)
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems 

Here's an update on my 96 OBW... I added a bottle of the limited slip
differential and the binding stopped within 10KM, although the AT OIL
TEMP light would still flash during startup. However, after about
500KM, the binding came back, but not as bad as previous. Now I am
hoping that it is a gummyness problem.

I have not gone back to Subaru to do the recommended repairs to the
clutch assembly yet, as the additive did have a temporary affect. So
my next task is to change the transmission fluid and see how that goes.
And I've not ruled out an entire transmission flush, but will see if
just a fluid change does the trick.

Cheers,


On Nov 10, 12:25 am, burdock <n....RemoveThis@000.com> wrote:
> I am not sure this will help everbody but anyone with a 1996 or 1997
> Outback with the problem of binding when hard turning to left or
> right we just got from Subaru a pint at $10.00 of Mopar limited slip
> lube to try in the transmission and within a couple miles the binding
> was gone fixed and the 1996 was so bad I installed a switch in the
> inside of care to take it out of 4 wheel drive ha and if it works
> thats all that matters. This lube is for Mopar limited slips that are
> making noise or chattering when driven on the bottle.
>
> "Carl 1 Lucky Texan" wrote:
> > Lyons Net wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Dave,
> > >
> > > I have the same year, model, with 190K km. Late Sept I
> > started getting
> > > the same set of symptoms, flashing AT TEMP light, binding on
> > turns,
> > > etc. I took the car into Subaru and they hooked up to the
> > computer and
> > > the code came back with the following quote:
> > >
> > > Replace Transfer Clutch Valve Assembly, Transfer Clutch
> > Plate Set, and
> > > re-seal transmission oil pan.
> > >
> > > Estimate $850 + tax (CDN), including labour
> > >
> > > I haven't had the work done yet, since they would have to
> > order the
> > > parts, I need to find the money and the service rep
> > said I could
> > > still drive without doing any damage to the car. Basically,
> > he said
> > > the valve is likely stuck or busted so the front to back AWD
> > power
> > > ratio is 50-50, instead of the correct ratio (not sure what
> > it is, but
> > > more power is usually on the front, like 60-40).
> > >
> > > If anyone else has a second opinion, or has found a solution
> > without
> > > changing the value as Subaru estimated, please post.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Dave N wrote:
> > >
> > >>I have a '96 Outback 2.5, automatic transmission, that has
> > developed
> > >>troubling symptoms in the last couple weeks:
> > >>
> > >>1) AT Oil Temp light flashes for awhile when I turn the car
> > on.
> > >>2) Difficulty shifting. The shifter is harder to move than
> > usual, and
> > >>there's a bit of a "clunk" sound going in and out of D or R.
> > >>3) Odd feel in reverse. It used to be that I could apply a
> > little gas,
> > >>take my foot off the pedal, and coast back out of my
> > driveway in reverse.
> > >>Now, as soon as I release the pedal in reverse, the car
> > stops.
> > >>
> > >>I've checked all the fluid levels, and they're fine. The
> > fluid colors are
> > >>fine, according to my Hayes manual. The car has just over
> > 100K miles, and
> > >>had its full service at 90K.
> > >>
> > >>Clearly I need to get it into a mechanic, but I'd like to
> > have an idea of
> > >>what the problem/diagnosis might be before I take it in.
> > Any guesses?
> > >>
> > >>Thanks,
> > >>Dave
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Yes, it is the opinion of quite few folks at
> >www.ultimatesubaru.org(and
> > elsewhere)that repeated 'flushes' or 'drain refill' cycles of
> > xmission
> > fluid are worth the effort. Seems to clean-up gumminess in
> > many cases.
> > Of course, its a better money saving effort if you do the
> > labor
> > yourself. And if the problem has persisted for some time, the
> > clutch
> > plates themselves may need replacing anyway. it's a gamble.
> >
> > Carl
> >
> >
> > --
> > to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net)
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems 

Here's an update on my 96 OBW... I added a bottle of the limited slip
differential and the binding stopped within 10KM, although the AT OIL
TEMP light would still flash during startup. However, after about
500KM, the binding came back, but not as bad as previous. Now I am
hoping that it is a gummyness problem.

I have not gone back to Subaru to do the recommended repairs to the
clutch assembly yet, as the additive did have a temporary affect. So
my next task is to change the transmission fluid and see how that goes.
And I've not ruled out an entire transmission flush, but will see if
just a fluid change does the trick.

Cheers,


On Nov 10, 12:25 am, burdock <n... RemoveThis @000.com> wrote:
> I am not sure this will help everbody but anyone with a 1996 or 1997
> Outback with the problem of binding when hard turning to left or
> right we just got from Subaru a pint at $10.00 of Mopar limited slip
> lube to try in the transmission and within a couple miles the binding
> was gone fixed and the 1996 was so bad I installed a switch in the
> inside of care to take it out of 4 wheel drive ha and if it works
> thats all that matters. This lube is for Mopar limited slips that are
> making noise or chattering when driven on the bottle.
>
> "Carl 1 Lucky Texan" wrote:
> > Lyons Net wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Dave,
> > >
> > > I have the same year, model, with 190K km. Late Sept I
> > started getting
> > > the same set of symptoms, flashing AT TEMP light, binding on
> > turns,
> > > etc. I took the car into Subaru and they hooked up to the
> > computer and
> > > the code came back with the following quote:
> > >
> > > Replace Transfer Clutch Valve Assembly, Transfer Clutch
> > Plate Set, and
> > > re-seal transmission oil pan.
> > >
> > > Estimate $850 + tax (CDN), including labour
> > >
> > > I haven't had the work done yet, since they would have to
> > order the
> > > parts, I need to find the money and the service rep
> > said I could
> > > still drive without doing any damage to the car. Basically,
> > he said
> > > the valve is likely stuck or busted so the front to back AWD
> > power
> > > ratio is 50-50, instead of the correct ratio (not sure what
> > it is, but
> > > more power is usually on the front, like 60-40).
> > >
> > > If anyone else has a second opinion, or has found a solution
> > without
> > > changing the value as Subaru estimated, please post.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Dave N wrote:
> > >
> > >>I have a '96 Outback 2.5, automatic transmission, that has
> > developed
> > >>troubling symptoms in the last couple weeks:
> > >>
> > >>1) AT Oil Temp light flashes for awhile when I turn the car
> > on.
> > >>2) Difficulty shifting. The shifter is harder to move than
> > usual, and
> > >>there's a bit of a "clunk" sound going in and out of D or R.
> > >>3) Odd feel in reverse. It used to be that I could apply a
> > little gas,
> > >>take my foot off the pedal, and coast back out of my
> > driveway in reverse.
> > >>Now, as soon as I release the pedal in reverse, the car
> > stops.
> > >>
> > >>I've checked all the fluid levels, and they're fine. The
> > fluid colors are
> > >>fine, according to my Hayes manual. The car has just over
> > 100K miles, and
> > >>had its full service at 90K.
> > >>
> > >>Clearly I need to get it into a mechanic, but I'd like to
> > have an idea of
> > >>what the problem/diagnosis might be before I take it in.
> > Any guesses?
> > >>
> > >>Thanks,
> > >>Dave
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Yes, it is the opinion of quite few folks at
> >www.ultimatesubaru.org(and
> > elsewhere)that repeated 'flushes' or 'drain refill' cycles of
> > xmission
> > fluid are worth the effort. Seems to clean-up gumminess in
> > many cases.
> > Of course, its a better money saving effort if you do the
> > labor
> > yourself. And if the problem has persisted for some time, the
> > clutch
> > plates themselves may need replacing anyway. it's a gamble.
> >
> > Carl
> >
> >
> > --
> > to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net)
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems 

burdock <none.TakeThisOut@000.com> wrote in news:909774_
892826118d705ca484970099c48cc71d.TakeThisOut@0000.com:

> I am not sure this will help everbody but anyone with a 1996 or 1997
> Outback with the problem of binding when hard turning to left or
> right we just got from Subaru a pint at $10.00 of Mopar limited slip
> lube to try in the transmission and within a couple miles the binding
> was gone fixed and the 1996 was so bad I installed a switch in the
> inside of care to take it out of 4 wheel drive ha and if it works
> thats all that matters. This lube is for Mopar limited slips that are
> making noise or chattering when driven on the bottle.
>

I just did this on a legacy wagon for my niece. If you can put the 2WD
fuse in and the problem goes away the flush and additive has a good chance
of working for you.

If installing the 2WD fuse has no effect it's either a bad C selenoid, a
stuck valve body, or a bad clutch.

The good news is that all the affected parts are in the last segment at the
rear of the transmission. If you're good with tools you can drop the
driveshaft and crack the case open without removing the transmission from
the car. The job is more difficult than an oil change but much easier than
fixing a blown head gasket. Personally I'd get a used trans from a salvage
yard and then swap the end instead of the whole unit.

Later,
Joe
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems 

burdock <none RemoveThis @000.com> wrote in news:909774_
892826118d705ca484970099c48cc71d RemoveThis @0000.com:

> I am not sure this will help everbody but anyone with a 1996 or 1997
> Outback with the problem of binding when hard turning to left or
> right we just got from Subaru a pint at $10.00 of Mopar limited slip
> lube to try in the transmission and within a couple miles the binding
> was gone fixed and the 1996 was so bad I installed a switch in the
> inside of care to take it out of 4 wheel drive ha and if it works
> thats all that matters. This lube is for Mopar limited slips that are
> making noise or chattering when driven on the bottle.
>

I just did this on a legacy wagon for my niece. If you can put the 2WD
fuse in and the problem goes away the flush and additive has a good chance
of working for you.

If installing the 2WD fuse has no effect it's either a bad C selenoid, a
stuck valve body, or a bad clutch.

The good news is that all the affected parts are in the last segment at the
rear of the transmission. If you're good with tools you can drop the
driveshaft and crack the case open without removing the transmission from
the car. The job is more difficult than an oil change but much easier than
fixing a blown head gasket. Personally I'd get a used trans from a salvage
yard and then swap the end instead of the whole unit.

Later,
Joe
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems 

burdock <none.RemoveThis@000.com> wrote in news:909774_
892826118d705ca484970099c48cc71d.RemoveThis@0000.com:

> I am not sure this will help everbody but anyone with a 1996 or 1997
> Outback with the problem of binding when hard turning to left or
> right we just got from Subaru a pint at $10.00 of Mopar limited slip
> lube to try in the transmission and within a couple miles the binding
> was gone fixed and the 1996 was so bad I installed a switch in the
> inside of care to take it out of 4 wheel drive ha and if it works
> thats all that matters. This lube is for Mopar limited slips that are
> making noise or chattering when driven on the bottle.
>

I just did this on a legacy wagon for my niece. If you can put the 2WD
fuse in and the problem goes away the flush and additive has a good chance
of working for you.

If installing the 2WD fuse has no effect it's either a bad C selenoid, a
stuck valve body, or a bad clutch.

The good news is that all the affected parts are in the last segment at the
rear of the transmission. If you're good with tools you can drop the
driveshaft and crack the case open without removing the transmission from
the car. The job is more difficult than an oil change but much easier than
fixing a blown head gasket. Personally I'd get a used trans from a salvage
yard and then swap the end instead of the whole unit.

Later,
Joe
 >> Stay informed about: Transmission problems