Supra 1987 Blower work only medium and high

"Bruce L. Bergman" <blPYTHONbergman RemoveThis @earthlink.invalid> wrote in message news:pan3e2t95r4ohm0ljm429ufp660gko21s2@4ax.com...
> On 15 Aug 2006 04:43:09 -0700, "dario" <djdtime RemoveThis @gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>Hi to all; my supra 1987 Blower work only medium and high, auto o
>>manual the low speed will not kick on..
>>
>> I replace the claimant control, but not have change .
>
> Check the blower motor resistor pack - look for a plug in the side
> of the fan duct right after the fan, one or two screws holds it in.
> It is a simple device, just several open wirewound resistors in
> series, mounted on a plate that is an electrical connector.
>
> High speed feeds straight +12V to the motor, but the lower speeds
> drop the motor voltage through the resistor. The lower speeds usually
> fail first, because that's when the resistor gets hottest and doesn't
> get cooled because the air is also moving over it the slowest.
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
>

The glove box comes out real easy and then you can see the resistor connector
and the blower wheel both.

To check the blower wheel for debris look in the return air inlet when it is
in the "recirculate" position.

GL
Dan
 >> Stay informed about: Supra 1987 Blower work only medium and high 

"dario" <djdtime DeleteThis @gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1155642189.445895.176000@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com...
> Hi to all; my supra 1987 Blower work only medium and high, auto o
> manual the low speed will not kick on..
>
> I replace the claimant control, but not have change .
>
>
> Any Help?


Yeah, mine did the same thing!

Come to think of it, so did my Corolla GT-S...
And my Celica GT-S...

Read Bruce's reply. The easiest thing to do is go to a boneyard and get a
replacement fan assy with a good resistor pack. That works on most of the
Toyotas...but, I *THINK* this is controlled by the climate control box...and
if you changed that, you might have another bad one. Open the old box (if
you still have it) and see if the resistor pack is in there...

And then let ME know what you find, cause I guess I oughta fix MINE, too,
but it's no rush. I park the car for the winter in a heated garage. The only
time I use the heat is on mornings like yesterday, at 48 degrees with the
roof off, the windows up and the heat set to 72...
 >> Stay informed about: Supra 1987 Blower work only medium and high 

It Fix, work now...! takes about 5 minutes to fix the problem..


========================================================


Tools Required: Medium sized Philips screw driver, Fine sized needle
nosed pliers, Soldering iron and 60/40 rosin core, solder, Continuity
Checker or Volt-Ohm Multimeter (VOM), Dremel Tool with Torpedo shaped
Grinding Bit, Clear quick drying lacquer, Flashlight

Skills Required: Basic Skills

Problem: Fan ventilation switches would only work on med and hi speeds,
(Or Similar)

Procedure:
1. Under the glove box locate 3 screws holding a protective plastic
panel. Screws are located just below glove box hinge area.

2. Remove screws and take out protective panel.

3. Look for a connector with 6 wires going to it. It is located just
about in the center of the glove box area about 8-9 inches (20 cm)
above the floor board. This connect is fastened to one of the air
plenum ducts under the dash.

4. Locate a single screw to the left of the connector. Remove it.

5. Gently pull out the whole assemble from the air plenum.

6. Disconnect the cable connector from the assembly.

7. You will now be holding a small plastic block with male spade type
connectors on one side and 5 wire coils on the side of the block inside
of the air duct.

8. The coil of wire which is the smallest, nearest the hole used for
the fastening screw, is the "resistor" which controls the low fan
setting. Check carefully, somewhere this coil is broken from thermal
stress.

Also notice that each coil has a dab of some hard white compound. This
is potting compound used to keep the coils from "vibrating" around and
shorting out against each other. Try not to break this stuff off if you
can help it.

9. Now you need to make a decision....

- Use the fine pair of needle nose pliers to probe at the broken coil.
If a large chunk of it breaks off repair may not be possible and you
can buy a new resistor assembly from Toyota

or

- Try to solder (connect) the two ends back together.

10. To repair the two ends:

- Use Dremel tool and grinding bit to clean off ends of broken coil
wire. The wires I fixed were either insulated or had a black type of
"oxidation" deposit on them. Don't be afraid to stretch out about 1
coil length of wire (about .5 inches/1 cm) and grasp it with the needle
nose pliers while cleaning it up with the Dremel tool. This wire is
pretty flexible and can take the handling!

11. Now for the slightly tricky part. Line up both ends of the cleaned
ends so that they are along side each other (in parallel). Use the
needled nosed pliers to twist the ends together witrh a 1 to 1.5 turn
twist. The cleaned-up, bare ends of each wire need to be touching.

- I tried to do this by butting both ends together, but this
arrangement was nearly impossible to solder.

12. Heat up your soldering iron and place it under the twisted bare
ends.
Feed some rosin core solder into the twist until a large enough blob of
wet solder is
between the two twists, move the soldering iron away and let the joint
cool. Note, this wire doesn't seem to take solder real well, so you
might need to try a couple of times!

13. If you have either a continuity checker or a Volt-Ohm Multimeter
(VOM)
now is a good time to test the two connections that the resistor coil
makes contact with. On the VOM, set the Ohms range switch to its lowest
setting (x1) and read the meter. You
should getting a resistance reading of 1.5 - 2 ohms. If you can't get a
reading, check
your connections and/or run a test probe over to the solder joint to
see if everything is
alright at that point.

With the continuity checker, all you will be able to verify is if the
connection is complete.

14. If all connections are OK, I'd recommend that you use a clear
enamel lacquer to seal/insulate the solder joint and any other "bare"
spots on the resistance coil that the Dremel tool might have nicked.
This will make sure that nothing shorts out after the resistor assembly
is placed back in the car.

15. After the lacquer dries, use the needle nose pliers to reform the
repaired ends into the shape of the original coil. The whole thing
needs to fit back into the air duct plenum!

16. Repeat steps 1-6 in Reverse to put everything back together.

17. FIGHT ANY URGES TO TRY OUT THE FIX BEFORE YOU HAVE THE COIL
ASSEMBLY BACK IN THE AIR DUCT PLENUM. AIR BLOWING OVER THE COILS FROM
THE FAN MOTOR ACTUALLY KEEPS THEM FROM OVERHEATING AND POSSIBLY BURNING
UP.
 >> Stay informed about: Supra 1987 Blower work only medium and high 

Bruce L. Bergman Wrote:
> On 15 Aug 2006 04:43:09 -0700, "dario" <djdtime.RemoveThis@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >Hi to all; my supra 1987 Blower work only medium and high, auto o
> >manual the low speed will not kick on..
> >
> > I replace the claimant control, but not have change .
>
> Check the blower motor resistor pack - look for a plug in the side
> of the fan duct right after the fan, one or two screws holds it in.
> It is a simple device, just several open wirewound resistors in
> series, mounted on a plate that is an electrical connector.
>
> High speed feeds straight +12V to the motor, but the lower speeds
> drop the motor voltage through the resistor. The lower speeds usually
> fail first, because that's when the resistor gets hottest and doesn't
> get cooled because the air is also moving over it the slowest.
>
> --<< Bruce >>--


--
CiRiS91GT

--
91 Celica GT
89 Suzuki GSX 750
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CiRiS91GT's Profile: http://www.celispeed.com/forums/member.php?userid=1614
View this thread: http://www.celispeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10038
 >> Stay informed about: Supra 1987 Blower work only medium and high 

On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 17:44:15 -0700, dario wrote:

> It Fix, work now...! takes about 5 minutes to fix the problem..
>
>
> ========================================================
>
>
> Tools Required: Medium sized Philips screw driver, Fine sized needle
> nosed pliers, Soldering iron and 60/40 rosin core, solder, Continuity
> Checker or Volt-Ohm Multimeter (VOM), Dremel Tool with Torpedo shaped
> Grinding Bit, Clear quick drying lacquer, Flashlight
>
> Skills Required: Basic Skills
>
> Problem: Fan ventilation switches would only work on med and hi speeds,
> (Or Similar)
>
> Procedure:
> 1. Under the glove box locate 3 screws holding a protective plastic
> panel. Screws are located just below glove box hinge area.
>
> 2. Remove screws and take out protective panel.
>
> 3. Look for a connector with 6 wires going to it. It is located just
> about in the center of the glove box area about 8-9 inches (20 cm)
> above the floor board. This connect is fastened to one of the air
> plenum ducts under the dash.
>
> 4. Locate a single screw to the left of the connector. Remove it.
>
> 5. Gently pull out the whole assemble from the air plenum.
>
> 6. Disconnect the cable connector from the assembly.
>
> 7. You will now be holding a small plastic block with male spade type
> connectors on one side and 5 wire coils on the side of the block inside
> of the air duct.
>
> 8. The coil of wire which is the smallest, nearest the hole used for
> the fastening screw, is the "resistor" which controls the low fan
> setting. Check carefully, somewhere this coil is broken from thermal
> stress.
>
> Also notice that each coil has a dab of some hard white compound. This
> is potting compound used to keep the coils from "vibrating" around and
> shorting out against each other. Try not to break this stuff off if you
> can help it.
>
> 9. Now you need to make a decision....
>
> - Use the fine pair of needle nose pliers to probe at the broken coil.
> If a large chunk of it breaks off repair may not be possible and you
> can buy a new resistor assembly from Toyota
>
> or
>
> - Try to solder (connect) the two ends back together.
>
> 10. To repair the two ends:
>
> - Use Dremel tool and grinding bit to clean off ends of broken coil
> wire. The wires I fixed were either insulated or had a black type of
> "oxidation" deposit on them. Don't be afraid to stretch out about 1
> coil length of wire (about .5 inches/1 cm) and grasp it with the needle
> nose pliers while cleaning it up with the Dremel tool. This wire is
> pretty flexible and can take the handling!
>
> 11. Now for the slightly tricky part. Line up both ends of the cleaned
> ends so that they are along side each other (in parallel). Use the
> needled nosed pliers to twist the ends together witrh a 1 to 1.5 turn
> twist. The cleaned-up, bare ends of each wire need to be touching.
>
> - I tried to do this by butting both ends together, but this
> arrangement was nearly impossible to solder.
>
> 12. Heat up your soldering iron and place it under the twisted bare
> ends.
> Feed some rosin core solder into the twist until a large enough blob of
> wet solder is
> between the two twists, move the soldering iron away and let the joint
> cool. Note, this wire doesn't seem to take solder real well, so you
> might need to try a couple of times!
>
> 13. If you have either a continuity checker or a Volt-Ohm Multimeter
> (VOM)
> now is a good time to test the two connections that the resistor coil
> makes contact with. On the VOM, set the Ohms range switch to its lowest
> setting (x1) and read the meter. You
> should getting a resistance reading of 1.5 - 2 ohms. If you can't get a
> reading, check
> your connections and/or run a test probe over to the solder joint to
> see if everything is
> alright at that point.
>
> With the continuity checker, all you will be able to verify is if the
> connection is complete.
>
> 14. If all connections are OK, I'd recommend that you use a clear
> enamel lacquer to seal/insulate the solder joint and any other "bare"
> spots on the resistance coil that the Dremel tool might have nicked.
> This will make sure that nothing shorts out after the resistor assembly
> is placed back in the car.
>
> 15. After the lacquer dries, use the needle nose pliers to reform the
> repaired ends into the shape of the original coil. The whole thing
> needs to fit back into the air duct plenum!
>
> 16. Repeat steps 1-6 in Reverse to put everything back together.
>
> 17. FIGHT ANY URGES TO TRY OUT THE FIX BEFORE YOU HAVE THE COIL
> ASSEMBLY BACK IN THE AIR DUCT PLENUM. AIR BLOWING OVER THE COILS FROM
> THE FAN MOTOR ACTUALLY KEEPS THEM FROM OVERHEATING AND POSSIBLY BURNING
> UP.


Thanks...I guess I know what I'm doing this weekend!
 >> Stay informed about: Supra 1987 Blower work only medium and high 

On 15 Aug 2006 17:44:15 -0700, "dario" <djdtime.DeleteThis@gmail.com> wrote:

>It Fix, work now...! takes about 5 minutes to fix the problem..

(Snip the repair procedure - which is ALMOST right.)

Okay, now that you've confirmed it's the resistor. But you jumped
two steps in front of where I was leading you, now when it breaks
again go buy a fresh resistor. New ones are cheap enough, and any
decent dealer parts dept. is going to keep a few in stock.

Reason being the resistor pack gets too hot for a repair done with
normal lead/tin solder (melting 400F - 450F range) to last very long,
and it's borderline too hot for silver solder (500 - 600F). In other
words, don't hold your breath that the repair will be permanent...

If the resistor was still clean and untouched and you had an
Oxygen-Acetylene torch handy to get it hot enough (roughly 1200F -
1500F) you could silver-braze the repaired spots - that compound will
easily take that much heat. But now that you have it tinned with
regular solder, if you try silver-brazing over it you are going to
have a witches' brew of copper, tin, silver, lead... And I haven't a
clue whether it will work for long, but I'm guessing not.

TIG welding would work too, but I have no idea what type of
tungsten, shielding gas or filler rod you would use. But if you have
access to a TIG welder (and they are fairly rare) and an experienced
welder (not for the casual user), I know where to ask that question.

--<< Bruce >>--
 >> Stay informed about: Supra 1987 Blower work only medium and high