Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new

NancyK <none.RemoveThis@000.com> wrote in news:948986_3dc7f1ef53e27f183ebff4ac5af1ddf1
@autoboardz.com:

> Bought 2002 Accord coupe new. It has 40K miles.
> Just a few months after purchase the accelerator seemed to stick when
> starting up. Dealer "cleaned" something and the problem went away,
> only to return about 6 months later. I’ve had whatever it is in there
> "cleaned" a few more times since- the prob disappears- then returns.
> About a year ago the service manager told me if it happened again he’d
> replace the "throttle body" something for free.
>
> But now they say they won’t do it- it will cost $150 to replace a
> "throttle body" thingie.
>
> I’ve read that this pedal stickiness is a fairly common problem. If I
> can clean this throttle body myself as opposed to spending $150 I’d
> rather do that. How do I know this throttle body thing even needs to
> be replaced? The gas pedal was fine for several months each time it
> was cleaned.
>
> Any thoughts? Thanks.
>


A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped into the
throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual reason for the
oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil changes. This is
where you need to clean the gum out of the throttle body, after which the
gas pedal will work normally for a while.

Insufficient oil changes will plug up the PCV system, increasing the chance
of oil getting pumped into the throttle body.

You need somebody to be honest with you and tell you if you are in fact not
changing your oil often enough for your driving conditions.

There are occasional instances where the throttle body itself is defective,
in which case the issue would be covered by a TSB from Honda. I can't find
one for yours, but your dealer would know, and can print it out for you if
one exists.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
 >> Stay informed about: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new 

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 >> Stay informed about: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new 

Thanks very much Tegger for your reply.
I change the oil at the dealer every 3750 miles religiously even tho the car is not driven under severe conditions.
I think I'm going to take it to the dealership I bought it from and see if I can't get a straight answer.
Elmo, the Honda service person said that the Odyssey and the Pilot both DO have this problem but not the Accord. (I googled this and found that indeed it exists for the Accord too) But I'll be interested in knowing what you've done to get yours corrected.
 >> Stay informed about: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new 

"Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop DeleteThis @nastydesigns.com> wrote in
news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:

> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger DeleteThis @207.14.116.130>,
> Tegger <tegger DeleteThis @tegger.c0m> wrote:
>
>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>> changes.
>
> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>
> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>


Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
dealer.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
 >> Stay informed about: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new 

Tegger wrote:
> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop DeleteThis @nastydesigns.com> wrote in
> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>
>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger DeleteThis @207.14.116.130>,
>> Tegger <tegger DeleteThis @tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>
>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient oil
>>> changes.
>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my 2000
>> Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>
>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>
>
>
> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
> dealer.
>
from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the oil
vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.

this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for a
while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what i
conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:

m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
may be relevant for your integra tegger.] what i find is that within
the first 1000-odd miles of high speed driving, my civic will burn about
half a quart of m1, but after that, it'll burn maybe another quart over
the whole next 9000 miles that i run it. including initial fill, that's
a total of 5 quarts over 10k. not too shabby for a clunker. with gtx,
a fine oil btw, it'll burn a quart in about 1500 miles, and keep on
doing so, so it's a constant monitoring and refill process. over 6k, it
uses nearly 7 quarts including initial fill.

some of this burn-off is due to volatile fractions in the base oil
simply evaporating at high temperatures of operation - no surprises
there. the difference is that m1 is much more isomerised than gtx and
therefore has a much narrower spectrum of molecular weights in the base
oil. therefore, there are fewer over-light fractions that can
evaporate. now, if evaporation means this oil vapor from the crank case
being able to circulate to the throttle body via the breather and
condense into goo when the motor is turned off, then it's worth
experimenting with a different oil with a lower evaporation rate to see
if it mitigates the problem. it'll cost an extra $20-odd bucks at oil
change time, but how much does it cost to have the dealer take off the
intake and squirt cleaner every 50k?

just a thought.
 >> Stay informed about: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new 

Tegger,
I am sorry to ask but what is a TSB?
Thanks....Nancy
 >> Stay informed about: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new 

Jim,

Interesting idea and plausible- I know nothing about cars as you might gather but your explanation makes sense.

I'm the OP and wonder if you think that the lesser grade oil put in at the dealer would still affect the throttle thing after about 5K miles. Thats about the time it takes for me to notice it, even tho I always change oil at 3750.

I'm going to call the original dealer and if I get the same run around I am really going to be upset. Will report on what their verdict is. Thanks.
 >> Stay informed about: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new 

jim beam <spamvortex DeleteThis @bad.example.net> wrote in
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.net:

> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop DeleteThis @nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger DeleteThis @207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger DeleteThis @tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
>
> this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for
> a while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
> project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
> oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
> when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what
> i conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
>
> m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
> may be relevant for your integra tegger.]



I wondered about that too, so I've been using Mobil 1 for the last four
oil changes (total mileage under Mobil 1: about 8,500).

I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to try
that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge spreads between the
numbers.

I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
formulations at one point.

The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
mattter what oil I used.

My method of checking my oil level is very precise and controlled, so I
can tell with a high degree of accuracy what my oil usage is.
1) Car is always parked in same place at same angle.
2) Car is always checked after sitting overnight, before starting
engine.
3) Level is checked twice, and noted.
4) Car is driven 1,000 miles.

5) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level again.
6) Add necessary amount to top up (1L between centers of marks).

7) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level once more. If oil is now at original
level, then amount added was correct. If level is still a bit low, you
can now more closely estimate amount still to be added.

Calculate mileage.

Measurements are always taken after the car has been driven to at least
one full-hot drive cycle, to ensure maximum drainback into pan. By that
I mean you wouldn't add oil, wait a bit, then check. You'd add, drive it
to full-hot, let sit overnight, then check.

All the above is meaningless on a car with low oil consumption, but once
it gets as high as mine, it starts to matter.

My current consumption is:
1,300-1,400 miles/US qt at the height of summer, with extensive high-rev
operation on the highway,
1,600-1,700 in the late fall,
and probably about 1,800-1,900 in the dead of winter this year
(estimated).

Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like 1,600
in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing will fix
that except a rebuild.

If one's main bearings were worn, with high oil consumption due to
excessive throwoff from the bearings, then it's possible a thicker oil
would reduce consumption by reducing throwoff. My bearings are fine
though; oil pressure is well within limits.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
 >> Stay informed about: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new 

Tegger wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex.DeleteThis@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.net:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop.DeleteThis@nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>>
>>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger.DeleteThis@207.14.116.130>,
>>>> Tegger <tegger.DeleteThis@tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>>> oil changes.
>>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>>
>>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>>> dealer.
>>>
>> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
>> cleaner in there and that's all. i agree with elmo that there is
>> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
>> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.
>>
>> this kinda-sorta brings me to something i've been meaning to post for
>> a while. for the past year, i've been running mobil 1 as a science
>> project. i've also done a lot of reading around the subject of motor
>> oils [and believe me, oil companies are slipperier than their product
>> when it comes to keeping consumers in the dark]. here's part of what
>> i conclude, and it may be relevant in this case:
>>
>> m1 /definitely/ has a lower oil burn-off rate than castrol gtx. [this
>> may be relevant for your integra tegger.]
>
>
>
> I wondered about that too, so I've been using Mobil 1 for the last four
> oil changes (total mileage under Mobil 1: about 8,500).

~2k per change on m1? ordinary oil is good for way more than that.
provided there's no fuel mixture/ignition problems messing up
combustion, m1 should double conventional mileage, especially for a
freeway driver. last time i changed mine at 10k, it came out looking
much the same as it did at 2k - same consistency too. should have left
it in there for another 5k. especially as it had finished getting burnt
and the level was constant.

>
> I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
> were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to try
> that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge spreads between the
> numbers.
>
> I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
> formulations at one point.
>
> The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
> mattter what oil I used.

i don't think you're giving it time to stabilize.

>
> My method of checking my oil level is very precise and controlled, so I
> can tell with a high degree of accuracy what my oil usage is.
> 1) Car is always parked in same place at same angle.
> 2) Car is always checked after sitting overnight, before starting
> engine.
> 3) Level is checked twice, and noted.
> 4) Car is driven 1,000 miles.
>
> 5) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level again.
> 6) Add necessary amount to top up (1L between centers of marks).
>
> 7) Repeat #1 to #3 to check level once more. If oil is now at original
> level, then amount added was correct. If level is still a bit low, you
> can now more closely estimate amount still to be added.
>
> Calculate mileage.
>
> Measurements are always taken after the car has been driven to at least
> one full-hot drive cycle, to ensure maximum drainback into pan. By that
> I mean you wouldn't add oil, wait a bit, then check. You'd add, drive it
> to full-hot, let sit overnight, then check.
>
> All the above is meaningless on a car with low oil consumption, but once
> it gets as high as mine, it starts to matter.
>
> My current consumption is:
> 1,300-1,400 miles/US qt at the height of summer, with extensive high-rev
> operation on the highway,
> 1,600-1,700 in the late fall,
> and probably about 1,800-1,900 in the dead of winter this year
> (estimated).
>
> Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like 1,600
> in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing will fix
> that except a rebuild.

did your head gasket dude use any abrasives when prepping for the new one?

>
> If one's main bearings were worn, with high oil consumption due to
> excessive throwoff from the bearings, then it's possible a thicker oil
> would reduce consumption by reducing throwoff. My bearings are fine
> though; oil pressure is well within limits.
>
 >> Stay informed about: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new 

jim beam <spamvortex RemoveThis @bad.example.net> wrote in
news:Y8SdnXIKfrbh3eHYnZ2dnUVZ_vGinZ2d@speakeasy.net:

> Tegger wrote:
>> "Elmo P. Shagnasty" <elmop RemoveThis @nastydesigns.com> wrote in
>> news:elmop-B6E8EF.10491010122006@nntp4.usenetserver.com:
>>
>>> In article <Xns98955EB50A647tegger RemoveThis @207.14.116.130>,
>>> Tegger <tegger RemoveThis @tegger.c0m> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A sticky gas pedal is usually due to sludge and oil getting pumped
>>>> into the throttle body from the crankcase breather tube. The usual
>>>> reason for the oil is poor maintenance, specifically insufficient
>>>> oil changes.
>>> There's plainly another reason, because it happens like this on my
>>> father's 98 Odyssey (4 cylinder) and it happened like this on my
>>> 2000 Accord, both of which get very regular maintenance.
>>>
>>> There's something else going on with that particular engine.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Then there ought to be a TSB on the problem. The OP needs to ask his
>> dealer.
>>
> from what i can gather, the dealer solution is to spray throttle body
> cleaner in there and that's all.



The *correct* procedure is to spray, scrub and wipe until clean. If any
franchised Honda dealer does a spritz-only, he should be shot. I would
expect a spray-only to be done by AutoZone or Firestone. Or Canadian
Tire, for that matter. Just that was done to me this past summer when I
had Canadian Tire perform a Motorvac service (which includes a throtte
body clean).



>i agree with elmo that there is
> something going on. i agree that it's got to be something from the
> oil vapor like you say, but it shouldn't be happening nonetheless.



ONE:
There is only one reason for sludge in the throttle body: Oil.
There is only one source for oil in the intake pipe: The crankcase
breather.
There is only one way oil can get far enough through the breather to end
up in the intake: It can't drain out of the valve cove baffles fast
enough.
There is only one reason it can't drain: Sludge.
There is only one reason for sludge: Insufficient oil changes.

TWO:
As I said before, I have seen it where there was a defect in the
throttle body or the throttle cable/linkage that caused the gas pedal to
stick, and in those cases Honda eventually issues a TSB on it.

THREE:
There have also been issues with other cars where the valve cover
baffles or PCV system are somehow poorly designed or assembled, leading
to poor drainage and oil in the intake. In those cases as well, the
automaker issues fixes for that. The fix may not be a TSB, but a mention
in the automaker's internal information documents. Honda's is
ServiceNews.

The above two paragrpahs are why I told the OP to have that checked out.
In any case, those issues should be readily discerned during a quick
investigation by a competent tech.

The fact that the OP's problem was fixed after the dealer cleaned the
throttle body is strongly suggestive of oil in the throttle body. The OP
also covers only 9K miles per year. We don't know what kind of driving
he does, or how often the oil gets changed. No one has any information
on the state of the engine's top end, or on the PCV system. Those things
matter a great deal.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
 >> Stay informed about: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new 

jim beam <spamvortex.RemoveThis@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:FMidnRcX4r4oWeHYnZ2dnUVZ_uuqnZ2d@speakeasy.net:

> Tegger wrote:

>
> ~2k per change on m1? ordinary oil is good for way more than that.
> provided there's no fuel mixture/ignition problems messing up
> combustion, m1 should double conventional mileage, especially for a
> freeway driver. last time i changed mine at 10k, it came out looking
> much the same as it did at 2k - same consistency too. should have
> left it in there for another 5k. especially as it had finished
> getting burnt and the level was constant.



I'm changing it every 3K now. It was 2.5K with Castrol GTX. I know I
could leave it lots longer, but I'm paranoid here; I want to milk this
motor for all it's worth. And when a rebuild is finally imperative, I
want that crankshaft to be as perfect as possible.

My oil gets jet-black after 3K, as does our Tercel's. And the Tercel has
only 75K on it.


>
>>
>> I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
>> were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to
>> try that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge spreads
>> between the numbers.
>>
>> I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
>> formulations at one point.
>>
>> The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
>> mattter what oil I used.
>
> i don't think you're giving it time to stabilize.



There is no stabilization period. Either a car uses oil or it does not.
Mine does, and no brand or viscosity is having any effect.


>>
>> Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like
>> 1,600 in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing
>> will fix that except a rebuild.
>
> did your head gasket dude use any abrasives when prepping for the new
> one?



Absolutely not. In fact, he was most emphatically against using any sort
of abrasives when we discussed the job afterwards.

My oil consumption is due to high piston speeds and worn rings. Nothing
else.

At 239K miles, consumption was an average of 2,000mi/qt.
At 279K miles, it's an average of about 1,600mi/qt.

It's declined 400mi/qt in 40,000 miles. If abrasives had been the
culprit, It would have gone from 2,000 to 200 in a few thousand miles.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
 >> Stay informed about: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new 

Tegger wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex.TakeThisOut@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:FMidnRcX4r4oWeHYnZ2dnUVZ_uuqnZ2d@speakeasy.net:
>
>> Tegger wrote:
>
>> ~2k per change on m1? ordinary oil is good for way more than that.
>> provided there's no fuel mixture/ignition problems messing up
>> combustion, m1 should double conventional mileage, especially for a
>> freeway driver. last time i changed mine at 10k, it came out looking
>> much the same as it did at 2k - same consistency too. should have
>> left it in there for another 5k. especially as it had finished
>> getting burnt and the level was constant.
>
>
>
> I'm changing it every 3K now. It was 2.5K with Castrol GTX. I know I
> could leave it lots longer, but I'm paranoid here; I want to milk this
> motor for all it's worth. And when a rebuild is finally imperative, I
> want that crankshaft to be as perfect as possible.
>
> My oil gets jet-black after 3K, as does our Tercel's. And the Tercel has
> only 75K on it.

wow, that's not good. what plugs do you use? i know you live in colder
climes which can keep the motor running rich, but excessive soot in the
oil is a symptom of incomplete combustion. weak spark from the plugs
can cause that. that's not say the plugs don't fire, but if they're
weak, combustion is not complete - hence it's always recommended to have
new plugs when going for a smog test. cheapo gasoline can give poor
combustion too.

[i'm running ngk iridium plugs, ngk coiled core plug leads and have been
running chevron gas since about march. mine's still brown after 10k.]

>
>
>>> I tried 5W-30 first. Then I tried the ultra-fancy 0W-40. The last two
>>> were back to 5W-30. Mobil has a new 5W-50 mix, but I'm reluctant to
>>> try that one. I've heard bad things about oils with huge spreads
>>> between the numbers.
>>>
>>> I also tried the Castrol GTX 10W-30 regular and "High-Mileage"
>>> formulations at one point.
>>>
>>> The upshot of all this? NO change of any kind in oil consumption no
>>> mattter what oil I used.
>> i don't think you're giving it time to stabilize.
>
>
>
> There is no stabilization period. Either a car uses oil or it does not.

that's not true. if a base loses 15% of the lighter fractions, the
[heavier] remainder will not evaporate and losses will be stabilized.
then all you have to do is bring it back up to original level and it'll
remain pretty constant. and that theory is backed by my experience, as
reported above. mine's stable after about 2k, just when you're getting
ready to change yours!

> Mine does, and no brand or viscosity is having any effect.
>
>
>>> Two years ago, it was 2,200 in the dead of winter, and more like
>>> 1,600 in the summer. My rings are just plain worn out, and nothing
>>> will fix that except a rebuild.
>> did your head gasket dude use any abrasives when prepping for the new
>> one?
>
>
>
> Absolutely not. In fact, he was most emphatically against using any sort
> of abrasives when we discussed the job afterwards.

how did he clean the block mating surface? was there any difference
between consumption before and after the head gasket change?

>
> My oil consumption is due to high piston speeds

speed has nothing to do with it - it's temperature [pressure] and
distribution in the combustion chamber. high speed generally goes hand
in hand with temperature, but the speed alone is not the cause.

> and worn rings. Nothing
> else.

worn rings will do it for sure. what's compression like? have you done
a leakdown test?

>
> At 239K miles, consumption was an average of 2,000mi/qt.
> At 279K miles, it's an average of about 1,600mi/qt.
>
> It's declined 400mi/qt in 40,000 miles. If abrasives had been the
> culprit, It would have gone from 2,000 to 200 in a few thousand miles.

not so. it depends on the abrasive. something like scotchbrite is the
worst of the worst - it has needle shaped alumina spicules that embed in
surfaces causing abrasion for ever more. they will indeed cause ongoing
degradation. but something like silicon carbide, with a relatively even
grainy shape, will generally not embed and will sometimes, depending on
circumstances, work its way out and get carried away by the oil. excess
abrasion of any kind is a problem, but the /type/ of abrasion makes a
big difference.
 >> Stay informed about: Sticky gas pedal since 2002 Accord was new 

I had this problem with my 99 Accord 4 cyl at about 40k miles too. It was
definitely a safety hazard the way the pedal was sticking. I perform all
the maintenance myself and I do it within the recommend intervals listed in
the owners manual. I also had the extended warranty at that time.

Like your case, the dealer solved my problem by cleaning the throttle body.
Then he refused to cover the cost with the extended warranty because no
"parts" were replaced. To my way of thinking that was BS and I told them
so. If something goes wrong and it is not a regular maintenance action
listed in the manual, nor is it a consumable item like tires, wiper blades,
or light bulbs, then it is an engineering defect and should be covered by
the warranty. Anyway, I ended up paying the dealer for the cleaning and
then writing Honda headquarters and letting them know what I thought of
their scuzzy business practices. Honda Corp agreed to reimburse me for the
cost, but I still came away with a bad taste in my mouth because they still
got away with not covering it via the extended warranty. So guess who is
not buying anymore extended warranties.

By the way, the service rep at Honda Hdqrts recommended that I use Chevron
gas with Techroline and also periodically add a bottle of Techroline
additive to the gas tank in order to keep the problem from recurring. I
think he said I should add it at least every oil change. Well, Chevron is
the only gas I have ever bought since the car was new. I do add a bottle of
Techroline ever now and then and it hasn't recurred yet.

Sid


"NancyK" <none RemoveThis @000.com> wrote in message
news:948986_3dc7f1ef53e27f183ebff4ac5af1ddf1@autoboardz.com...
> Bought 2002 Accord coupe new. It has 40K miles.
> Just a few months after purchase the accelerator seemed to stick when
> starting up. Dealer "cleaned" something and the problem went away,
> only to return about 6 months later. I've had whatever it is in there
> "cleaned" a few more times since- the prob disappears- then returns.
> About a year ago the service manager told me if it happened again he'd
> replace the "throttle body" something for free.
>
> But now they say they won't do it- it will cost $150 to replace a
> "throttle body" thingie.
>
> I've read that this pedal stickiness is a fairly common problem. If I
> can clean this throttle body myself as opposed to spending $150 I'd
> rather do that. How do I know this throttle body thing even needs to
> be replaced? The gas pedal was fine for several months each time it
> was cleaned.
>
> Any thoughts? Thanks.
>
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