Welcome to AutoBoardz.com!
FAQFAQ   SearchSearch      ProfileProfile    Private MessagesPrivate Messages   Log in/Register/PasswordLog in/Register/Password

Spring bushing bolt question

  
   AutoBoardz (Home) -> Studebaker RSS
Related Topics:
spring rate question on front springs - which has a higher rate?: 63 GT Hawk V8 or 65 McKinnen 6 will they

Midwest Spring????? - I am in the middle of a quick biz trip to WTH??? 38 degree's and raining? Cool thing is that I the trip a little and went up to my mothers' house for her 80th birthday party open house. Totally and a

Salt2Salt Spring Update - I started updating our website again with all the stuff we done so far this spring -- including the trip to South Bend for the swap meet. There's lots of pictures. We had a great time out there and ran into a lot of old friends and, as always, had a..

Valve Spring Rates - Can anyone tell me the different rates for the standard V8 and the R-Series valve springs? Nick

U-joint bolt torque - The October mentions checking the u-joint nuts for being as it could lead to trouble. Geez, I never thought about this and was hoping someone might remember how much torque to give them. Thanks!
Next:  Studebaker: R3 Engine Mounts  
Author Message
Paul Johnson

External


Since: Feb 09, 2004
Posts: 196



(Msg. 1) Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 10:55 am
Post subject: Spring bushing bolt question Get Alert
Archived from groups: alt>autos>studebaker (more info?)
I am attempting to install new rear spring bushings in my '64 Daytona
convertible. I couldn't get even the first bolt out of the lower shackle to
spring mount. In reviewing the subject on the SDC Forum it was consensus
that you have to cut off the bolts- they are hopelessly stuck to the inner
sleeve of the bushing. So, I started cutting the first one last night, but
by about 1/3 through the teeth on my Sawz-All blade were completely worn
off. Are they case-hardened bolts? Should I use Grade 8 bolts for
replacements? What about using stainless steel bolts to maybe keep the
sleeves from rusting to the bolts?
Paul Johnson

 >> Stay informed about: Spring bushing bolt question 
Back to top
Login to vote
njnagel1

External


Since: Dec 07, 2004
Posts: 325



(Msg. 2) Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 10:55 am
Post subject: Re: Spring bushing bolt question Get Alert [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
Paul Johnson wrote:
> I am attempting to install new rear spring bushings in my '64 Daytona
> convertible. I couldn't get even the first bolt out of the lower shackle to
> spring mount. In reviewing the subject on the SDC Forum it was consensus
> that you have to cut off the bolts- they are hopelessly stuck to the inner
> sleeve of the bushing. So, I started cutting the first one last night, but
> by about 1/3 through the teeth on my Sawz-All blade were completely worn
> off. Are they case-hardened bolts? Should I use Grade 8 bolts for
> replacements? What about using stainless steel bolts to maybe keep the
> sleeves from rusting to the bolts?
> Paul Johnson

Paul,

I have been in the exact same situation you describe and have found
that an abrasive cutoff wheel is the only way to get those bolts out.
A hacksaw or sawzall will get the job done but as you've discovered it
will require many blades. I tried a Sawzall on my '55 when replacing
the rear springs and the blade dulled halfway through the first bolt;
but a cutoff tool got the job done. Now you're going to ask me how the
heck to replace the ones in the frame, all I can say is "improvise" Sad
I believe the stock bolts are Grade 5 but they appear to be a hard
alloy. I wouldn't use stainless bolts for any suspension fasteners,
I'd use Grade 5 or Grade 8. If you see yourself R&Ring the springs
again in the future you might want to coat the bolts in grease or
anti-seize to prevent future corrosion.

nate

 >> Stay informed about: Spring bushing bolt question 
Back to top
Login to vote
Gordon Richmond

External


Since: May 07, 2004
Posts: 191



(Msg. 3) Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 12:55 pm
Post subject: Re: Spring bushing bolt question Get Alert [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
>I am attempting to install new rear spring bushings in my '64 Daytona
>convertible. I couldn't get even the first bolt out of the lower shackle to
>spring mount. In reviewing the subject on the SDC Forum it was consensus
>that you have to cut off the bolts- they are hopelessly stuck to the inner
>sleeve of the bushing. So, I started cutting the first one last night, but
>by about 1/3 through the teeth on my Sawz-All blade were completely worn
>off. Are they case-hardened bolts? Should I use Grade 8 bolts for
>replacements? What about using stainless steel bolts to maybe keep the
>sleeves from rusting to the bolts?
>Paul Johnson
>

Paul, you actually WANT the inner sleeve to seize on the bolt, once installed. Those
bushings work by torsional forces in the rubber. If the inner sleeve isn't well
restrained, it will turn instead. The compression of the nut squeezing the two shackles
against the ends of the innner sleeve provides the initial restraint, but a little rust
helps in the long run.

When removing these bushings, it helps to first tighten the nut by half a turn or, or
whatever is possible. Tighten until it breaks? Maybe. But stretching the bolt will help
break the rust bond, and makes withdrawing the bolt easier.

Check the markings on the head of the bolt; you should be able to find a table, maybe with
your torque wrench, that will enable to decode it.

I'd recommend a cutoff disc in a die grinder for cutting these bolts.

Gord Richmond
 >> Stay informed about: Spring bushing bolt question 
Back to top
Login to vote
Jim Turner

External


Since: May 13, 2004
Posts: 67



(Msg. 4) Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 10:59 pm
Post subject: Re: Spring bushing bolt question Get Alert [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
Did that on my 62 ragtop a few months ago, used the sawz all, and had both
NOS springs back in just short of 2 hours.
I used the grade 8 bolts I use for my dual M/C bracket, and lock nuts.
Just remember, use jack stands to support the car AND rear axle assy.

Jim Turner
 >> Stay informed about: Spring bushing bolt question 
Back to top
Login to vote
Display posts from previous:   
   AutoBoardz (Home) -> Studebaker All times are: Pacific Time (US & Canada) (change)
Page 1 of 1

 
 You can post new topics in this forum
You can reply to topics in this forum
You can edit your posts in this forum
You can delete your posts in this forum
You can vote in polls in this forum



[ Contact us | Terms of Service/Privacy Policy ]