Need Rotors on Chev, Bearings too?

Thanks, Steve
I will look at that thing again. I sure thought it was one piece. Thought
the parts guy said so too....
Anyway-----if I did have to put new hubs on, should new bearings/races/seals
go in also?
I remember seeing a guy doing one and he was using the old bearings. I kinda
figured he was messing up.
Thanks again.
Pete

"Steve W." <csr684NOT RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:fvre0v$5mh$1@aioe.org...
> Pete wrote:
>> Hi To all:
>> Got a 2002 Chev S-10 -2 WD-that needs new front rotors. When I change the
>> rotors and hubs, Will install new seals but what about bearings...should
>> I get new ones or are the old ones reusable?
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Pete / MS
>>
> Why are you changing the hubs? The 02 has separate rotors no need to
> touch the hubs unless it's due for repacking the bearings. If it's due
> then I would change out the races and bearings, mainly because they are
> not that expensive anyway. However if they are OK and look good you could
> just clean them VERY well and repack with good grease. Your choice.
>
> OH and FYI if you need them the numbers are
>
> Timken set#6 (LM67048, LM67010) - Inner also BCA/National #A6
> Timken set#34 (LM12748F, LM12710) - Outer also BCA/National #A34
>
> Seals are
> Timken or BCA/National part #4739
>
> --
> Steve W.
> Near Cooperstown, New York
>
> Life is not like a box of chocolates
> it's more like a jar of jalapenos-
> what you do today could burn your ass tomorrow!
 >> Stay informed about: Need Rotors on Chev, Bearings too? 

Pete wrote:
> Thanks, Steve
> I will look at that thing again. I sure thought it was one piece. Thought
> the parts guy said so too....
> Anyway-----if I did have to put new hubs on, should new bearings/races/seals
> go in also?
> I remember seeing a guy doing one and he was using the old bearings. I kinda
> figured he was messing up.
> Thanks again.
> Pete

Yep, Skipped the 2WD... Oh well that will teach me to reply to posts
without reading closer. Sorry.

Anyway, Yes you will need the bearings and seals. New units don't
usually come with the races pressed in, and removing the old ones,
cleaning and re-lubing the bearings is a PIA.
Also make sure that you get the wheel studs as well. Some include them
and some don't.

Why are you replacing the rotors? Worn below limits?

--
Steve W.
 >> Stay informed about: Need Rotors on Chev, Bearings too? 

"Pete" <kc5gxc.TakeThisOut@isp.com> wrote in message
news:a3329$4822544b$45126bba$11804@DIALUPUSA.NET...
> Thanks, Steve
> I will look at that thing again. I sure thought it was one piece. Thought
> the parts guy said so too....
> Anyway-----if I did have to put new hubs on, should new
> bearings/races/seals go in also?
> I remember seeing a guy doing one and he was using the old bearings. I
> kinda figured he was messing up.
> Thanks again.
> Pete
>
Its a one piece hub and rotor and will have new races already installed. If
the old bearings
look ok, ie no mars, or burnishing then clean and repack the bearings and
use them over.
Always use a new seal. Make sure you use a good high quality bearing grease
rated
for disk brakes. I like Kendall L-427 Super Blue. If I cant find that I go
with Valvoline
SynPower. both are ultra high temp grease.

Whitelightning
 >> Stay informed about: Need Rotors on Chev, Bearings too? 

Thanks for all the info on this , guys.
Yep, I had steering wobble on braking. Left rotor was warped somewhat. Had
'em turned , but the guy said probably no more could be taken off. Braking
was ok, but now it's starting to wobble the steering wheel a bit when I
brake.
It' the front left one that's doing it, but will change both when I do it.
Pete
"Steve W." <csr684NOT RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:fvtqkl$lqv$1@aioe.org...
> Pete wrote:
>> Thanks, Steve
>> I will look at that thing again. I sure thought it was one piece. Thought
>> the parts guy said so too....
>> Anyway-----if I did have to put new hubs on, should new
>> bearings/races/seals go in also?
>> I remember seeing a guy doing one and he was using the old bearings. I
>> kinda figured he was messing up.
>> Thanks again.
>> Pete
>
> Yep, Skipped the 2WD... Oh well that will teach me to reply to posts
> without reading closer. Sorry.
>
> Anyway, Yes you will need the bearings and seals. New units don't usually
> come with the races pressed in, and removing the old ones, cleaning and
> re-lubing the bearings is a PIA.
> Also make sure that you get the wheel studs as well. Some include them
> and some don't.
>
> Why are you replacing the rotors? Worn below limits?
>
> --
> Steve W.
 >> Stay informed about: Need Rotors on Chev, Bearings too? 

"Pete" <kc5gxc.TakeThisOut@isp.com> wrote in message
news:84af8$482340a3$45126b88$18835@DIALUPUSA.NET...
> Thanks for all the info on this , guys.
> Yep, I had steering wobble on braking. Left rotor was warped somewhat. Had
> 'em turned , but the guy said probably no more could be taken off. Braking
> was ok, but now it's starting to wobble the steering wheel a bit when I
> brake.
> It' the front left one that's doing it, but will change both when I do it.
> Pete

The warped rotor is a symptom, not the desease. and if its the same rotor
warped again, then you have a caliper hanging up, or a bad flex line.
If your replace the hoses ie flex lines replace both of them, and dont mix
brands
of hoses..
If the caliper is the culprit, again I would replace both, in fact I would
look for
"loaded" calipers. They come with all new mounting hardware and pads.

Whitelightning
 >> Stay informed about: Need Rotors on Chev, Bearings too? 

Hey Lightning
How would that work? If I had bad hoses or caliper....I reckon the brake
would be riding on that rotor?????
This truck is easy to roll....no brakes riding. No heat after running on
those rotors either???? If the brake ain't dragging, would that rule out a
bad caliper or hose? It ain't pulling to the left either....
What else would cause the rotor to warp if not heat from the brake
riding...anything?
Let me also say that when I first pulled the rotors off and had 'em turned.
The machinist at parts place told me they were mighty thin and he might not
be able to keep 'em in spec.
When I went back to get them , he said they were just barely in spec and no
more turns were left in them.
I got this thing used and it's in good shape, generally.
Also, I am assuming the wobble is caused by the rotor as it is exactly the
same as the time before. Gradually slowing down and lightly applying brakes
causes the steering wheel to pulsate/wobble a bit and it seems to pull to
the left a little. Just as before.
Thanks for your help. You have saved me a bunch of bucks before, but you
probably don't remember it....A cable was broke on the carb linkage to the
transmission on a full size Chev Impala. It was shifting crazy and you told
me to check the cable...shure enough...it was broke...ha ha.
Thanks again.
Pete/MS

"Whitelightning" <white.lightning2 DeleteThis @verizon.net> wrote in message
news:i_MUj.15686$sp.6275@trnddc02...
>
> "Pete" <kc5gxc DeleteThis @isp.com> wrote in message
> news:84af8$482340a3$45126b88$18835@DIALUPUSA.NET...
>> Thanks for all the info on this , guys.
>> Yep, I had steering wobble on braking. Left rotor was warped somewhat.
>> Had 'em turned , but the guy said probably no more could be taken off.
>> Braking was ok, but now it's starting to wobble the steering wheel a bit
>> when I brake.
>> It' the front left one that's doing it, but will change both when I do
>> it.
>> Pete
>
> The warped rotor is a symptom, not the desease. and if its the same rotor
> warped again, then you have a caliper hanging up, or a bad flex line.
> If your replace the hoses ie flex lines replace both of them, and dont mix
> brands
> of hoses..
> If the caliper is the culprit, again I would replace both, in fact I would
> look for
> "loaded" calipers. They come with all new mounting hardware and pads.
>
> Whitelightning
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Need Rotors on Chev, Bearings too? 

Pete wrote:
> Hey Lightning
> How would that work? If I had bad hoses or caliper....I reckon the brake
> would be riding on that rotor?????
> This truck is easy to roll....no brakes riding. No heat after running on
> those rotors either???? If the brake ain't dragging, would that rule out a
> bad caliper or hose? It ain't pulling to the left either....
> What else would cause the rotor to warp if not heat from the brake
> riding...anything?
> Let me also say that when I first pulled the rotors off and had 'em turned.
> The machinist at parts place told me they were mighty thin and he might not
> be able to keep 'em in spec.
> When I went back to get them , he said they were just barely in spec and no
> more turns were left in them.
> I got this thing used and it's in good shape, generally.
> Also, I am assuming the wobble is caused by the rotor as it is exactly the
> same as the time before. Gradually slowing down and lightly applying brakes
> causes the steering wheel to pulsate/wobble a bit and it seems to pull to
> the left a little. Just as before.
> Thanks for your help. You have saved me a bunch of bucks before, but you
> probably don't remember it....A cable was broke on the carb linkage to the
> transmission on a full size Chev Impala. It was shifting crazy and you told
> me to check the cable...shure enough...it was broke...ha ha.
> Thanks again.
> Pete/MS
>

A caliper that isn't sliding evenly could cause that problem just by
physical bending of the rotor. Take a close look at the pads and measure
them on both ends. If they are evenly worn then the caliper is likely
free and sliding OK. If either end is worn more the caliper is not
sliding evenly. OR if yours has the 2 piston calipers one piston may be
binding.

--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
 >> Stay informed about: Need Rotors on Chev, Bearings too? 

Thanks Steve
I am saving all this and when I decide to jack it up and go to work , I
will reread all this good info and know what I'm looking for.
Thanks for the great info.
Pete

"Steve W." <csr684NOT RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:g00n8h$neu$1@aioe.org...
> Pete wrote:
>> Hey Lightning
>> How would that work? If I had bad hoses or caliper....I reckon the brake
>> would be riding on that rotor?????
>> This truck is easy to roll....no brakes riding. No heat after running on
>> those rotors either???? If the brake ain't dragging, would that rule out
>> a bad caliper or hose? It ain't pulling to the left either....
>> What else would cause the rotor to warp if not heat from the brake
>> riding...anything?
>> Let me also say that when I first pulled the rotors off and had 'em
>> turned. The machinist at parts place told me they were mighty thin and he
>> might not be able to keep 'em in spec.
>> When I went back to get them , he said they were just barely in spec and
>> no more turns were left in them.
>> I got this thing used and it's in good shape, generally.
>> Also, I am assuming the wobble is caused by the rotor as it is exactly
>> the same as the time before. Gradually slowing down and lightly applying
>> brakes causes the steering wheel to pulsate/wobble a bit and it seems to
>> pull to the left a little. Just as before.
>> Thanks for your help. You have saved me a bunch of bucks before, but you
>> probably don't remember it....A cable was broke on the carb linkage to
>> the transmission on a full size Chev Impala. It was shifting crazy and
>> you told me to check the cable...shure enough...it was broke...ha ha.
>> Thanks again.
>> Pete/MS
>>
>
> A caliper that isn't sliding evenly could cause that problem just by
> physical bending of the rotor. Take a close look at the pads and measure
> them on both ends. If they are evenly worn then the caliper is likely free
> and sliding OK. If either end is worn more the caliper is not sliding
> evenly. OR if yours has the 2 piston calipers one piston may be binding.
>
> --
> Steve W.
> Near Cooperstown, New York
 >> Stay informed about: Need Rotors on Chev, Bearings too?