Replacing lower intake manifold

SPC,

I just did the same work on my '97 Tahoe and it is a nasty work.
If you know a good GM mechanic I wouldn't hesitate to bring it to a
shop.

If you decide to do it yourself make sure to use the "better" gasket from
Fel-Pro (MS98000T). The cheaper ones from Fel-Pro and other companies are
made from plastic as SnowMan already posted.

Regarding the A/C bracket this is a little bit tricky and with the repair
books you will never find out what bolts and nuts to loose. Their are 3
bolts and 2 nuts in the front and one nut behind the steering pump to lose.
You don't have to remove the pump as you need to move the bracket just a
inch to access one of the manifold bolts.

There are some very helpfull posts in the newsgroup to get this work done.



Hope this helps,



Oliver




On Sat, 16 Sep 2006 15:45:35 -0700, SPC wrote:

> I have to replace the lower intake manifold on my 97 suburban 5.7L
> engine.
>
> While changing the water pump I was trying to replace the quick
> disconnect fitting for the heater hose and it broke off in the manifold.
> While trying to extract the remainder of this fitting with an easy out,
> I managed to crack the manifold right where the fitting screws in. So
> now I must replace the whole thing and am not thrilled with paying a
> shop to do the work.
>
> I've done other engine work before water pumps, radiators, brakes,
> etc... I've got the time to invest in fixing it, is this something that
> can be handled in the home garage, or better off by the shop?
 >> Stay informed about: Replacing lower intake manifold 

"SPC" wrote in message

>I have to replace the lower intake manifold on my 97 suburban 5.7L
> engine.
>
> While changing the water pump I was trying to replace the quick
> disconnect fitting for the heater hose and it broke off in the
> manifold. While trying to extract the remainder of this fitting with an
> easy out, I managed to crack the manifold right where the fitting
> screws in. So now I must replace the whole thing and am not thrilled
> with paying a shop to do the work.
>
> I've done other engine work before water pumps, radiators, brakes,
> etc... I've got the time to invest in fixing it, is this something that
> can be handled in the home garage, or better off by the shop?
>
The only part that will require a little ability is putting the distributor
back in. You can mark it to the manifold, and the rotor to it's position in
the dist. and put it right back to that and then check the timing. Or you
can just get the engine up on TDC of compression stroke and put it in with
rotor facing to #1 then check timing. Make sure you get it to drop into the
oil drive rod. (dist goes all the way down to manifold).
The manifold itself is a very easy job, just make sure you torque it in
sequence.
 >> Stay informed about: Replacing lower intake manifold 

Dennis wrote:
> All great responses... be aware the torque spec's on the manifold are in
> INCH pounds and not foot pounds... the Fel Pro gasket set is great (costs
> about $56), it was made specifically made for this change out... and comes
> with a nice little explanation of the torque procedure. It's done in 3
> steps.. Good luck.
>
> "SPC" wrote in message
>
> >I have to replace the lower intake manifold on my 97 suburban 5.7L
> > engine.
> >
> > While changing the water pump I was trying to replace the quick
> > disconnect fitting for the heater hose and it broke off in the
> > manifold. While trying to extract the remainder of this fitting with an
> > easy out, I managed to crack the manifold right where the fitting
> > screws in. So now I must replace the whole thing and am not thrilled
> > with paying a shop to do the work.
> >
> > I've done other engine work before water pumps, radiators, brakes,
> > etc... I've got the time to invest in fixing it, is this something that
> > can be handled in the home garage, or better off by the shop?
> >

Is there a difference in the replacement manifold that I get. I went to
Auto Zone and they have different types and prices. So my question is,
much like the type of gasket to get, are there different manifolds to
get or stay away from?

thanks again, SPC
 >> Stay informed about: Replacing lower intake manifold 

All great responses... be aware the torque spec's on the manifold are in
INCH pounds and not foot pounds... the Fel Pro gasket set is great (costs
about $56), it was made specifically made for this change out... and comes
with a nice little explanation of the torque procedure. It's done in 3
steps.. Good luck.

"SPC" wrote in message

>I have to replace the lower intake manifold on my 97 suburban 5.7L
> engine.
>
> While changing the water pump I was trying to replace the quick
> disconnect fitting for the heater hose and it broke off in the
> manifold. While trying to extract the remainder of this fitting with an
> easy out, I managed to crack the manifold right where the fitting
> screws in. So now I must replace the whole thing and am not thrilled
> with paying a shop to do the work.
>
> I've done other engine work before water pumps, radiators, brakes,
> etc... I've got the time to invest in fixing it, is this something that
> can be handled in the home garage, or better off by the shop?
>
 >> Stay informed about: Replacing lower intake manifold 

On Sun, 17 Sep 2006 15:46:25 -0700, SPC wrote:


>
> Is there a difference in the replacement manifold that I get. I went to
> Auto Zone and they have different types and prices. So my question is,
> much like the type of gasket to get, are there different manifolds to
> get or stay away from?
>
> thanks again, SPC


This sounds strange. In www.rockauto.com is just one lower intake manifold
from Dorman available. I would assume they mixed up upper and lower intake
manifold. Did you check the online catalog of Autozone ?
 >> Stay informed about: Replacing lower intake manifold