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John Corliss

External


Since: Jan 18, 2008
Posts: 27



(Msg. 1) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 5:44 am
Post subject: Polishing a t*rd
Archived from groups: alt>autos>dodge>trucks (more info?)

Yesterday, I took my 1992 Dodge Dakota's passenger side door apart to
see if I could fix it so that my key would work the lock button again.
Sure enough, I discovered that a rod coming out of the back of the key
tumbler had become disconnected from a lever which operates the lock
button and door lock. It had become disconnected because it was
originally held on with a cheap, plastic keeper that was doomed from the
start to fail at some point due to its inevitable material
decomposition. I replaced it with a suitably sized and slightly modified
metal throttle linkage keeper and now it will never come apart again.
However, while I had the door apart, I noticed that there are other such
plastic keepers used in other places, so this is probably going to be an
ongoing problem over time with other connections.

Chrysler could just have easily have used a metal part. That they didn't
shows me just how truthful that "Quality Engineered by Chrysler" label
on the floor really is. I know, I know, I can hear the standard reply
now, "It was done to save weight and contribute to improving mileage."
Bullshit. The total amount of weight saved couldn't have been more than
a couple hundred milligrams. It was done to contribute to planned
obsolescence and for no other reason.

<rant>
As the friend who traded this thing for my Husky dirtbike said when I
told him I was repairing such problems, "John, you can only polish a
turd so much."

He refuses to buy any more Dodge products and has moved over to being a
Ford man. Don't know if that's any better but he hasn't complained about
either his pickup or his new Focus.

It's doubtful that it will be possible to get the Dakota's emissions
down to a level that will pass I&M without having to spend several
hundred dollars or even over 1k to do so. That being the case, I would
then be stuck with an immovable white elephant taking up space unless I
were able to sell it to a junkyard.

I hope Dodge is building their rigs a lot better these days. If they're
not, they're going to head the way of the dodo. Word spreads and they
seemed to have totally forgotten this back in 1992. Maybe they've wised
up since. I certainly hope so.
</rant>

By the way, I read somewhere that you can reset the "Check Engine" light
on these particular models (my '92 Dakota) by disconnecting the negative
terminal on the battery, then turning on the ignition key for 20
seconds. Has anybody else heard or done that?

TIA.

--
John Corliss

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Tom Lawrence

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Since: Oct 28, 2007
Posts: 72



(Msg. 2) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:25 am
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

> He refuses to buy any more Dodge products and has moved over to being a
> Ford man.

Don't look now, but they use the same plastic clips on their door linkages,
too...

> By the way, I read somewhere that you can reset the "Check Engine" light
> on these particular models (my '92 Dakota) by disconnecting the negative
> terminal on the battery, then turning on the ignition key for 20 seconds.
> Has anybody else heard or done that?

Just disconnecting the battery for a few minutes will do it, but I suppose
turning on the ignition circuits will bleed out the capacitors in the
electronics quicker.

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John Corliss

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Since: Jan 18, 2008
Posts: 27



(Msg. 3) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:25 am
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Tom Lawrence wrote:
>> He refuses to buy any more Dodge products and has moved over to being a
>> Ford man.
>
> Don't look now, but they use the same plastic clips on their door linkages,
> too...

Yep, as I said:

>> However, while I had the door apart, I noticed that there are other such
>> plastic keepers used in other places, so this is probably going to be an
>> ongoing problem over time with other connections.

That was what I meant. Sorry I wasn't clearer.

>> By the way, I read somewhere that you can reset the "Check Engine" light
>> on these particular models (my '92 Dakota) by disconnecting the negative
>> terminal on the battery, then turning on the ignition key for 20 seconds.
>> Has anybody else heard or done that?
>
> Just disconnecting the battery for a few minutes will do it,

'Fraid not. I just cleaned and treated the battery terminals and cables
the other day. In the process, the cables were both disconnected for
about 45 minutes. When I reconnected them and started the truck, that
damned light was still there.

> but I suppose turning on the ignition circuits will bleed out the capacitors
> in the electronics quicker.

I figger the same. Then the error codes (of which there are some at this
point) should re-establish themselves once I drive the truck somewhere.

--
John Corliss
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mac davis

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Since: Apr 08, 2008
Posts: 3



(Msg. 4) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:21 am
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

On Mon, 03 Mar 2008 05:44:44 -0800, John Corliss <jcorliss.RemoveThis@fake.invalid> wrote:

>Yesterday, I took my 1992 Dodge Dakota's passenger side door apart to
>see if I could fix it so that my key would work the lock button again.
>Sure enough, I discovered that a rod coming out of the back of the key
>tumbler had become disconnected from a lever which operates the lock
>button and door lock. It had become disconnected because it was
>originally held on with a cheap, plastic keeper that was doomed from the
>start to fail at some point due to its inevitable material decomposition.

Only lasted 16 years?
I'd be pissed..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing
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Tom Lawrence

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Since: Oct 28, 2007
Posts: 72



(Msg. 5) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:40 am
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

> 'Fraid not. I just cleaned and treated the battery terminals and cables
> the other day. In the process, the cables were both disconnected for about
> 45 minutes. When I reconnected them and started the truck, that damned
> light was still there.

Well, if the condition still exists that caused it to trip in the first
place, then it's going to come back on. Pull the codes, and see what it's
complaining about.
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PeterD

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Since: Aug 21, 2005
Posts: 371



(Msg. 6) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 3:23 pm
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

On Mon, 03 Mar 2008 07:00:28 -0800, John Corliss
<jcorliss DeleteThis @fake.invalid> wrote:


>'Fraid not. I just cleaned and treated the battery terminals and cables
>the other day. In the process, the cables were both disconnected for
>about 45 minutes. When I reconnected them and started the truck, that
>damned light was still there.
>

Because the problem was detected again on the restart?
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nunya

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Since: Mar 12, 2007
Posts: 81



(Msg. 7) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 4:36 pm
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"mac davis" <macsplinters.DeleteThis@davisbaja.com> wrote in message
<snip>
> Only lasted 16 years?
> I'd be pissed..
>
>
> mac
>

the dash in my 91 dakota is starting to crack.

recently i had to replace one of the plastic retainers on a windshield wiper
mechanism. i think i may just call mopar and give them a piece of my mind.
if they had built these parts out of metal they would have been all rusty
and i could be having to grind them off or drill them out before i replaced
them.

maybe i'll just go buy a six ohh powerstroke ford instead. my dodge trucks
are not breaking often enough to keep me busy. i did have to change the oil
on the 97 ram today and decided to grease the front end while i was at it.
the only plastic part i encountered in this adventure was the washer on the
oil drain plug and it hasn't broken yet but i am waiting for it to so i can
gripe about it. Wink
michael
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John Corliss

External


Since: Jan 18, 2008
Posts: 27



(Msg. 8) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 5:22 pm
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Tom Lawrence wrote:
>> 'Fraid not. I just cleaned and treated the battery terminals and cables
>> the other day. In the process, the cables were both disconnected for about
>> 45 minutes. When I reconnected them and started the truck, that damned
>> light was still there.
>
> Well, if the condition still exists that caused it to trip in the first
> place, then it's going to come back on. Pull the codes, and see what it's
> complaining about.

I messed up. It's not the Engine light on the left, it's the light that
tells you to replace the Oxygen sensor, "Maintenance Needed" on the right.

There is only one Fault Code present at this time, and it's 12 (that the
battery has been disconnected recently). I'll check the fault codes
again after I drive the truck some more.

--
John Corliss
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John Corliss

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Since: Jan 18, 2008
Posts: 27



(Msg. 9) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 5:25 pm
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

PeterD wrote:
> On Mon, 03 Mar 2008 07:00:28 -0800, John Corliss
> <jcorliss.TakeThisOut@fake.invalid> wrote:
>
>
>> 'Fraid not. I just cleaned and treated the battery terminals and cables
>> the other day. In the process, the cables were both disconnected for
>> about 45 minutes. When I reconnected them and started the truck, that
>> damned light was still there.
>>
>
> Because the problem was detected again on the restart?

Sorry, I was referring to the wrong light. It's the "Main Reqd" light,
not the "Check Engine" one.

--
John Corliss BS206. I use nFilter to block all crossposts, everything
from troublemakers like Andy Mabbett, Bear Bottoms, gavin, hummingbird,
Kayman and proteanthread, and all Google Groups posts because of
Googlespam. No ad, cd, commercial, cripple, demo, dotnet, nag, share,
spy, time-limited, trial or web wares OR warez for me, please.
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John Corliss

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Since: Jan 18, 2008
Posts: 27



(Msg. 10) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 5:30 pm
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

mac davis wrote:
> On Mon, 03 Mar 2008 05:44:44 -0800, John Corliss <jcorliss.RemoveThis@fake.invalid> wrote:
>
>> Yesterday, I took my 1992 Dodge Dakota's passenger side door apart to
>> see if I could fix it so that my key would work the lock button again.
>> Sure enough, I discovered that a rod coming out of the back of the key
>> tumbler had become disconnected from a lever which operates the lock
>> button and door lock. It had become disconnected because it was
>> originally held on with a cheap, plastic keeper that was doomed from the
>> start to fail at some point due to its inevitable material decomposition.
>
> Only lasted 16 years?
> I'd be pissed..
>
>
> mac
>
> Please remove splinters before emailing

Ahs disbusted.

At any rate, I don't expect that metal clip I used to give up the ghost
any time soon.


--
John Corliss
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John Corliss

External


Since: Jan 18, 2008
Posts: 27



(Msg. 11) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 5:36 pm
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

John Corliss wrote:
> Yesterday, I took my 1992 Dodge Dakota's passenger side door apart to
> see if I could fix it so that my key would work the lock button again.
> Sure enough, I discovered that a rod coming out of the back of the key
> tumbler had become disconnected from a lever which operates the lock
> button and door lock. It had become disconnected because it was
> originally held on with a cheap, plastic keeper that was doomed from the
> start to fail at some point due to its inevitable material
> decomposition. I replaced it with a suitably sized and slightly modified
> metal throttle linkage keeper and now it will never come apart again.
> However, while I had the door apart, I noticed that there are other such
> plastic keepers used in other places, so this is probably going to be an
> ongoing problem over time with other connections.
>
> Chrysler could just have easily have used a metal part. That they didn't
> shows me just how truthful that "Quality Engineered by Chrysler" label
> on the floor really is. I know, I know, I can hear the standard reply
> now, "It was done to save weight and contribute to improving mileage."
> Bullshit. The total amount of weight saved couldn't have been more than
> a couple hundred milligrams. It was done to contribute to planned
> obsolescence and for no other reason.
>
> <rant>
> As the friend who traded this thing for my Husky dirtbike said when I
> told him I was repairing such problems, "John, you can only polish a
> turd so much."
>
> He refuses to buy any more Dodge products and has moved over to being a
> Ford man. Don't know if that's any better but he hasn't complained about
> either his pickup or his new Focus.
>
> It's doubtful that it will be possible to get the Dakota's emissions
> down to a level that will pass I&M without having to spend several
> hundred dollars or even over 1k to do so. That being the case, I would
> then be stuck with an immovable white elephant taking up space unless I
> were able to sell it to a junkyard.
>
> I hope Dodge is building their rigs a lot better these days. If they're
> not, they're going to head the way of the dodo. Word spreads and they
> seemed to have totally forgotten this back in 1992. Maybe they've wised
> up since. I certainly hope so.
> </rant>
>
> By the way, I read somewhere that you can reset the "Check Engine" light
> on these particular models (my '92 Dakota) by disconnecting the negative
> terminal on the battery, then turning on the ignition key for 20
> seconds. Has anybody else heard or done that?
>
> TIA.
>

1. I was cranky and it was too early.
2. The truck IS 16 years old.
3. I was able to get the door apart very easily and do the repair.
4. When my friend said, "John, you can only polish a turd so much" he
was mainly referring to me beating out a dent on a vehicle with a very
bad looking paint job.
5. The paint is bad because my friend never EVER washed the truck in the
whole time he owned it, TTBOMK. When you do that, and the truck sits out
in the Oregon rain all the time, the paint is bound to go bad.

The truck starts and the motor runs well. Only real problem is that the
motor races a little for some reason when I coast down the hill with my
foot off the gas, or roll backwards, again in neutral and with my foot
off the gas. I talked on the phone to a Lithia Dodge service tech today
and he said that he's never heard of such a problem in over 20 years of
working on Dodges. Said that I should clean my throttle body, but I see
it as some kind of sensor related issue.


--
John Corliss
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Steve Lusardi

External


Since: Sep 09, 2004
Posts: 106



(Msg. 12) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 6:57 pm
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

John,
We benefit greatly in the price we pay for inovations like these most
wonderful plastic clips. They can't be that bad. The vehicle is a '92 and
this is the first one to fail? I can remember rusty set screws in my Fords
and Oldmobiles in the 50's. Don't look now, but everybody is using these
things, not just Chrysler. Even the exotic and really expensive cars use
plastics extensively today and today's cars ARE better than yesteryear's and
guess what... ...the number one reason is improvements in material
technology.
Steve

"John Corliss" <jcorliss.RemoveThis@fake.invalid> wrote in message
news:13so06fb4kh5se3@corp.supernews.com...
> Yesterday, I took my 1992 Dodge Dakota's passenger side door apart to see
> if I could fix it so that my key would work the lock button again. Sure
> enough, I discovered that a rod coming out of the back of the key tumbler
> had become disconnected from a lever which operates the lock button and
> door lock. It had become disconnected because it was originally held on
> with a cheap, plastic keeper that was doomed from the start to fail at
> some point due to its inevitable material decomposition. I replaced it
> with a suitably sized and slightly modified metal throttle linkage keeper
> and now it will never come apart again. However, while I had the door
> apart, I noticed that there are other such plastic keepers used in other
> places, so this is probably going to be an ongoing problem over time with
> other connections.
>
> Chrysler could just have easily have used a metal part. That they didn't
> shows me just how truthful that "Quality Engineered by Chrysler" label on
> the floor really is. I know, I know, I can hear the standard reply now,
> "It was done to save weight and contribute to improving mileage."
> Bullshit. The total amount of weight saved couldn't have been more than a
> couple hundred milligrams. It was done to contribute to planned
> obsolescence and for no other reason.
>
> <rant>
> As the friend who traded this thing for my Husky dirtbike said when I told
> him I was repairing such problems, "John, you can only polish a turd so
> much."
>
> He refuses to buy any more Dodge products and has moved over to being a
> Ford man. Don't know if that's any better but he hasn't complained about
> either his pickup or his new Focus.
>
> It's doubtful that it will be possible to get the Dakota's emissions down
> to a level that will pass I&M without having to spend several hundred
> dollars or even over 1k to do so. That being the case, I would then be
> stuck with an immovable white elephant taking up space unless I were able
> to sell it to a junkyard.
>
> I hope Dodge is building their rigs a lot better these days. If they're
> not, they're going to head the way of the dodo. Word spreads and they
> seemed to have totally forgotten this back in 1992. Maybe they've wised up
> since. I certainly hope so.
> </rant>
>
> By the way, I read somewhere that you can reset the "Check Engine" light
> on these particular models (my '92 Dakota) by disconnecting the negative
> terminal on the battery, then turning on the ignition key for 20 seconds.
> Has anybody else heard or done that?
>
> TIA.
>
> --
> John Corliss
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John Corliss

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Since: Jan 18, 2008
Posts: 27



(Msg. 13) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 6:57 pm
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Steve Lusardi wrote:
> John,
> We benefit greatly in the price we pay for inovations like these most
> wonderful plastic clips. They can't be that bad. The vehicle is a '92 and
> this is the first one to fail? I can remember rusty set screws in my Fords
> and Oldmobiles in the 50's. Don't look now, but everybody is using these
> things, not just Chrysler. Even the exotic and really expensive cars use
> plastics extensively today and today's cars ARE better than yesteryear's and
> guess what... ...the number one reason is improvements in material
> technology.
> Steve

Steve, you're right. The rig IS 18 years old! Guess I should be more
tolerant. After all, Merle Haggard sang, "I wish a Ford and a Chevy,
would still last 10 years... like they should."

That metal throttle linkage clip I used IS a better idea though. I don't
expect it to fail any time soon.

> "John Corliss" <jcorliss RemoveThis @fake.invalid> wrote in message
> news:13so06fb4kh5se3@corp.supernews.com...
>> Yesterday, I took my 1992 Dodge Dakota's passenger side door apart to see
>> if I could fix it so that my key would work the lock button again. Sure
>> enough, I discovered that a rod coming out of the back of the key tumbler
>> had become disconnected from a lever which operates the lock button and
>> door lock. It had become disconnected because it was originally held on
>> with a cheap, plastic keeper that was doomed from the start to fail at
>> some point due to its inevitable material decomposition. I replaced it
>> with a suitably sized and slightly modified metal throttle linkage keeper
>> and now it will never come apart again. However, while I had the door
>> apart, I noticed that there are other such plastic keepers used in other
>> places, so this is probably going to be an ongoing problem over time with
>> other connections.
>>
>> Chrysler could just have easily have used a metal part. That they didn't
>> shows me just how truthful that "Quality Engineered by Chrysler" label on
>> the floor really is. I know, I know, I can hear the standard reply now,
>> "It was done to save weight and contribute to improving mileage."
>> Bullshit. The total amount of weight saved couldn't have been more than a
>> couple hundred milligrams. It was done to contribute to planned
>> obsolescence and for no other reason.
>>
>> <rant>
>> As the friend who traded this thing for my Husky dirtbike said when I told
>> him I was repairing such problems, "John, you can only polish a turd so
>> much."
>>
>> He refuses to buy any more Dodge products and has moved over to being a
>> Ford man. Don't know if that's any better but he hasn't complained about
>> either his pickup or his new Focus.
>>
>> It's doubtful that it will be possible to get the Dakota's emissions down
>> to a level that will pass I&M without having to spend several hundred
>> dollars or even over 1k to do so. That being the case, I would then be
>> stuck with an immovable white elephant taking up space unless I were able
>> to sell it to a junkyard.
>>
>> I hope Dodge is building their rigs a lot better these days. If they're
>> not, they're going to head the way of the dodo. Word spreads and they
>> seemed to have totally forgotten this back in 1992. Maybe they've wised up
>> since. I certainly hope so.
>> </rant>
>>
>> By the way, I read somewhere that you can reset the "Check Engine" light
>> on these particular models (my '92 Dakota) by disconnecting the negative
>> terminal on the battery, then turning on the ignition key for 20 seconds.
>> Has anybody else heard or done that?
>>
>> TIA.
>>
>> --
>> John Corliss
>
>


--
John Corliss BS206
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curmudgeon5

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Since: Sep 22, 2004
Posts: 15



(Msg. 14) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 7:44 pm
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Move to NC....nothing older than 95 has to get an emissions inspection.


"John Corliss" <jcorliss.RemoveThis@fake.invalid> wrote in message
news:13so4kememsq1e2@corp.supernews.com...
> Tom Lawrence wrote:
>>> He refuses to buy any more Dodge products and has moved over to being a
>>> Ford man.
>>
>> Don't look now, but they use the same plastic clips on their door
>> linkages, too...
>
> Yep, as I said:
>
>>> However, while I had the door apart, I noticed that there are other such
>>> plastic keepers used in other places, so this is probably going to be an
>>> ongoing problem over time with other connections.
>
> That was what I meant. Sorry I wasn't clearer.
>
>>> By the way, I read somewhere that you can reset the "Check Engine" light
>>> on these particular models (my '92 Dakota) by disconnecting the negative
>>> terminal on the battery, then turning on the ignition key for 20
>>> seconds. Has anybody else heard or done that?
>>
>> Just disconnecting the battery for a few minutes will do it,
>
> 'Fraid not. I just cleaned and treated the battery terminals and cables
> the other day. In the process, the cables were both disconnected for about
> 45 minutes. When I reconnected them and started the truck, that damned
> light was still there.
>
>> but I suppose turning on the ignition circuits will bleed out the
>> capacitors in the electronics quicker.
>
> I figger the same. Then the error codes (of which there are some at this
> point) should re-establish themselves once I drive the truck somewhere.
>
> --
> John Corliss
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nonelson

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Since: Nov 12, 2004
Posts: 805



(Msg. 15) Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 7:45 pm
Post subject: Re: Polishing a t*rd [Login to view extended thread Info.]
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In article <13sp930a5noi5b6.TakeThisOut@corp.supernews.com>,
John Corliss <jcorliss.TakeThisOut@fake.invalid> wrote:

> Tom Lawrence wrote:
> >> 'Fraid not. I just cleaned and treated the battery terminals and cables
> >> the other day. In the process, the cables were both disconnected for about
> >> 45 minutes. When I reconnected them and started the truck, that damned
> >> light was still there.
> >
> > Well, if the condition still exists that caused it to trip in the first
> > place, then it's going to come back on. Pull the codes, and see what it's
> > complaining about.
>
> I messed up. It's not the Engine light on the left, it's the light that
> tells you to replace the Oxygen sensor, "Maintenance Needed" on the right.

You'll need a scan tool to turn that light off.

> There is only one Fault Code present at this time, and it's 12 (that the
> battery has been disconnected recently). I'll check the fault codes
> again after I drive the truck some more.

If the check engine light wasn't on before, why would you expect
new fault codes?
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