My Name Is Nobody wrote:
> "
" <porshapower.DeleteThis@webtv.net> wrote in message
> news:9147-4758A239-211@storefull-3333.bay.webtv.net...
>> really? Wow if it is that easy I will be excited! Should I chance
>> pulling the shock without the tires off? Will the truck drop any??
>> Thanks
>>
>
> Shocks are not springs. Unless you are using an "air" shock, the shock
> simply "dampens" the spring movement, it does not hold or lift the vehicle.
>
> Most truck shocks can be changed while the truck sits on the ground with no
> jack at all...
I replaced the shocks on my 96 F150 about a year ago. I did remove the
front tires (one at a time), and welcomed the room that resulted.
Perhaps the worst part was removing the old rubber bushings. Either:
(1) they fused over time; (2) were installed by machine; (3) King Kong
pushed them into place. It was necessary to pull the lower portion with
pliers and stab at the "neck" with a utility knife to get them out.
Use PB Blaster on the nuts. Give it a few days to work just in case.
Be sure to have a breaker bar. They cost $20 or so IIRC, and are worth
every penny. Many report trouble getting the bolts loose; I had no
trouble at all, perhaps in large part due to giving the blaster about
five days to work its magic. Maybe I was just lucky.
You mentioned supporting the vehicle with a jack. Please NEVER do that
and then get under it. Use jack stands to support the vehicle.
Depending on how you jack it, you might want to use a jack to control
the position of the I-beam. Just make sure the frame or radius arm
(read the manual to get it right for your truck) is sitting firmly on a
jack stand (they are cheap too, and can save your life).
Despite books suggesting that I should jack the rear, I found no reason
to do so. Tires can blow though, so I recommend taking the rear up just
enough to get a jack stand under the axle. I ended up with the wheel on
the ground but the axle bearing on the stand. There was still plenty
of room.
Shocks are not springs, but mind did want to expand. It was nothing
that one could not overcome standing and pushing down, but it might have
been troublesome when reaching around axles and break lines. I took
time to get the shock in place, aim at the other end, and then cut the
restraining "wire". The expansion was slow but deliberate. It was
obvious what to do in front: attach the bottom and then aim at the hole
above. In the rear, I recall guessing well, though the details are a
little fuzzy. I might have described it here (enter search engines),
but it was something along the lines of using a screwdriver to act as a
lever allowing me to easily align the shock with the holes in the bracket.
Good luck!
Bill
>> Stay informed about: Installing front shocks on 1987 f150? 
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