"Tim" <timcall RemoveThis @sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1178471212.341176.248990@p77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
> On May 6, 7:55 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn... RemoveThis @cybertrails.com>
> wrote:
>>
>> Backing up a bit, what led you to check the injector resistance? Is the
>> engine running badly?
>>
>> Mike
>
> My Accord just hasn't been running with the same zip it once did so I
> thought I would check the injectors. Would there be anything to be
> gained in taking them out and soaking them in carburetor cleaner?
>
>
>
A bottle of Techron in the tank will do as well, and without the headaches
that go with removing and reinstalling injectors. Dirty injectors usually
show up more as stumbling, especially taking off from a stop. That is really
obvious with manual transmissions, where the symptoms are very similar to a
grabby clutch.
If the ignition parts (plugs, wires, rotor and cap) are getting old, this is
a good time to replace those. You can use NGK plugs, but for everything else
genuine Honda parts are a better bet than aftermarket parts. I was made a
believer when my son used NAPA parts in his Acura and the rotor actually
broke a few months later!
The Haynes manual for my daughter's '93 Accord has a slick test for exhaust
restrictions, too. Paraphrasing:
*Connect a manifold pressure guage to the intake manifold and start the
engine. Note the idle reading.
*Open the throttle to stabilize the engine around 2000 rpm and watch the
guage when you release the throttle.
*If the guage returns to within a couple PSI of the original idle reading
within two seconds, the exhaust is normal. If the reading hangs at the
higher pressure for a few seconds or slowly drifts down there is restriction
in the exhaust - maybe the catalytic converter, maybe the muffler.
Mike
>> Stay informed about: Fuel Injectors Showing 2.7 ohms