Finished installing the new inner CV boot on the 1998 Inte..

"Tegger" wrote in message

>" Frank" wrote in
>
>
>> On the left half shaft, between the inner boot and the transaxle,
>> there is a cast iron support bracket with three bolts attached to the
>> body frame. How do you slide the shaft out from this support? I ended
>> up removing the support and shaft as one unit.
>
>
>
> That's the center bearing. You just use a pry bar to
> carefully pop the inner CV joint out from the center bearing.
> <http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/alt_replacement/7-inner-cv-joint-loose.jpg>
>
>
>>
>> There is a solid rubber doughnut thingy on the shaft between the inner
>> and outer CV boots. It is on both right and left sides of the half
>> shafts. What is this for? Dampening vibrations?
>
>
>
> Supposedly, yes.
>
>
>>
>> I broke my cheap 1/2" torque wrench jumping on that hub nut.
>
>
>
> To tighten it or get it loose? Either way you did a dumb thing.
> A torque wrench is a precision instrument, not a diving board.
>
>

Set for 134 ft lb, but it didn't click like usual so I put a little more
weight on it and the spring shot out at the end of the wrench. Anyway its
over 30 years old, time for a better one.


>
>> So who
>> makes a reliable and accurate 1/2" torque wrench that goes beyond 200
>> ft.-lbs. I have the click type, but would a dial or digital type be
>> more convenient and accurate?
>>
>
>
> WHY are you tightening it to 200 ft lbs? Are you reading one of
> those stupid Haynes or Chiltons that tell you to tighten the nut
> to 200 ft lbs?
>
> Proper torque is 134 ft lbs, NOT 200.
>

Yes, I have other cars and some torque specifications are over 230 lbs.

>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
 >> Stay informed about: Finished installing the new inner CV boot on the 1998 Inte.. 

>
> That's the center bearing. You just use a pry bar to
> carefully pop the inner CV joint out from the center bearing.
> <http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/alt_replacement/7-inner-cv-joint-loose.jpg>
>
>

Ok, thanks. No retaining clips to remove first?
 >> Stay informed about: Finished installing the new inner CV boot on the 1998 Inte.. 

Tegger wrote in


> " Frank" wrote in
>
>
>> On the left half shaft, between the inner boot and the transaxle,
>> there is a cast iron support bracket with three bolts attached to the
>> body frame. How do you slide the shaft out from this support? I ended
>> up removing the support and shaft as one unit.
>
>
>
> That's the center bearing. You just use a pry bar to
> carefully pop the inner CV joint out from the center bearing.
><http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/alt_replacement/7-inner-cv-joint-lo
>ose.jpg>
>
>
>>
>> There is a solid rubber doughnut thingy on the shaft between the
>> inner and outer CV boots. It is on both right and left sides of the
>> half shafts. What is this for? Dampening vibrations?
>
>
>
> Supposedly, yes.
>
>
>>
>> I broke my cheap 1/2" torque wrench jumping on that hub nut.
>
>
>
> To tighten it or get it loose? Either way you did a dumb thing.
> A torque wrench is a precision instrument, not a diving board.
>
>
>
>> So who
>> makes a reliable and accurate 1/2" torque wrench that goes beyond 200
>> ft.-lbs. I have the click type, but would a dial or digital type be
>> more convenient and accurate?
>>
>
>
> WHY are you tightening it to 200 ft lbs? Are you reading one of
> those stupid Haynes or Chiltons that tell you to tighten the nut
> to 200 ft lbs?
>
> Proper torque is 134 ft lbs, NOT 200.
>
>

my Haynes manual says 134 ft-lbs.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
 >> Stay informed about: Finished installing the new inner CV boot on the 1998 Inte.. 

>> Proper torque is 134 ft lbs, NOT 200.
>>
>>
>
> my Haynes manual says 134 ft-lbs.
>

My Chilton says 134 ft-lbs for the Integra but its so confusing as it also
cover other non Integra and had the torque specification over 200 ft-lbs but
it didn't state for which model on the exploded diagram I was looking at. My
fault for not reading every line and every page.

Had another manual, forgot if its Haynes or Chilton, for the Volvo. It
covers various years and for this year you go to that page and for that year
you go to another page except for another year that only chapters so and so
applies -- so confusing.
 >> Stay informed about: Finished installing the new inner CV boot on the 1998 Inte.. 

" Frank" wrote in


>
>>
>> That's the center bearing. You just use a pry bar to
>> carefully pop the inner CV joint out from the center bearing.
>> <http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/alt_replacement/7-inner-cv-joint-
>> loose.jpg>
>>
>>
>
> Ok, thanks. No retaining clips to remove first?
>
>



No. You drive the outer joint nose out of the hub, then pop the inner out
of the center bearing with the pry bar. Take care so as not to damage the
rubber sealing lip and surface, so watch how far the pry bar is inserted
into the gap. The Honda manual actually gives diagrams for modifying a
flat-blade scredriver to make a tool that won't damage the inner joint as
you pop it loose.

There is a clip on the splines of the inner shaft. It can help on
re-installation to smear a touch of CV joint grease on the clip to
hold it centered as you push the splines together again. If the clip drops
down (off-center), the joint splines may not go together as the clip hangs
up on the center bearing splines.

Slide the inner joint spline back into the center bearing slowly and
carefully, making sure you don't fold the rubber sealing lip over. A bit of
grease on that will help too.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
 >> Stay informed about: Finished installing the new inner CV boot on the 1998 Inte.. 

" Frank" wrote in


>>> Proper torque is 134 ft lbs, NOT 200.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> my Haynes manual says 134 ft-lbs.
>>
>
> My Chilton says 134 ft-lbs for the Integra but its so confusing as it
> also cover other non Integra and had the torque specification over 200
> ft-lbs but it didn't state for which model on the exploded diagram I
> was looking at. My fault for not reading every line and every page.
>
> Had another manual, forgot if its Haynes or Chilton, for the Volvo. It
> covers various years and for this year you go to that page and for
> that year you go to another page except for another year that only
> chapters so and so applies -- so confusing.
>
>



Buy a true Helms manual. Expensive but worth every penny. Explains all this
in copious detail, also including tool modification tips and some
explanations of technique.

eBay or www.helminc.com

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
 >> Stay informed about: Finished installing the new inner CV boot on the 1998 Inte..