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Next: Pedal to the metal squeaking
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Since: Apr 26, 2005 Posts: 4
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(Msg. 1) Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 5:50 am
Post subject: DIY Timing Belt Replacement Archived from groups: alt>autos>subaru (more info?)
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Hi,
I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I
had was removing crank pulley. I tried conventional methods (strap
wrench/breaker bar), but could not budge bolt. I searched NG and
learned about the bumping starter method. I was very leary of this
method to say the least. I decided to consult my local imports
mechanic, he said he used the starter method whenever conventional
methods fail. He loaned me a breaker bar, mine was not long enough to
reach frame. I carefully positioned breaker bar, one end resting on
drivers side frame, making sure to keep bar parallel to crank pulley. I
removed plug wires from plugs, bumped starter once and bolt was loose.
Rest of job was fairly easy. I used OEM belt and water pump, as many
in this NG suggest. The belt has three marks that are aligned to crank
and cam sprocket marks. I used a T handle breaker bar in conjunction
with a hammer to tighten crank bolt during assembly. Got every thing
assembled, hit starter, and was a happy camper, car started and no leak
at new water pump gasket. Very productive day, I had to take out a
front axle and replace both CV boots before I started on timimg belt
job. Thanks to folks in this NG, both jobs went better than expected! >> Stay informed about: DIY Timing Belt Replacement |
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Since: Oct 30, 2004 Posts: 1802
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(Msg. 2) Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:19 am
Post subject: Re: DIY Timing Belt Replacement [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"phatirejunky" wrote in message
> Hi,
> I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I
> had was removing crank pulley. I tried conventional methods (strap
> wrench/breaker bar), but could not budge bolt. I searched NG and
> learned about the bumping starter method. I was very leary of this
> method to say the least. I decided to consult my local imports
> mechanic, he said he used the starter method whenever conventional
> methods fail.
I only did it once, on my daughter's first car, an old Toyota. It worked
fine but was scary - the front of the car rose several inches.
It's worth mentioning even here in a Subie forum that the starter method
can't be used on Honda products - those engines turn counterclockwise.
Mike >> Stay informed about: DIY Timing Belt Replacement |
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Since: Apr 26, 2005 Posts: 4
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(Msg. 3) Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 12:57 pm
Post subject: Re: DIY Timing Belt Replacement [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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Carl 1 Lucky Texan wrote:
>
> You, Sir, are to be congratulated.
> One point - what torque value did you use to replace the crank pulley?
> Some say some of the books have a torque too low and it should be higher
> (120f/lbs IIRC - anyone?)
>
> Regardless, sounds like a very satisfying experience.
>
>
> Carl
The service manual spec. is 130.2(within 3.6 either way). I had to
SWAG, no torque wrench. I followed my mechanics advice of using breaker
bar as a slugging wrench. After about 20 miles, still tight. >> Stay informed about: DIY Timing Belt Replacement |
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Since: Jan 20, 2004 Posts: 998
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(Msg. 4) Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 6:07 pm
Post subject: Re: DIY Timing Belt Replacement [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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phatirejunky wrote:
> Hi,
> I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I
> had was removing crank pulley. I tried conventional methods (strap
> wrench/breaker bar), but could not budge bolt. I searched NG and
> learned about the bumping starter method. I was very leary of this
> method to say the least. I decided to consult my local imports
> mechanic, he said he used the starter method whenever conventional
> methods fail. He loaned me a breaker bar, mine was not long enough to
> reach frame. I carefully positioned breaker bar, one end resting on
> drivers side frame, making sure to keep bar parallel to crank pulley. I
> removed plug wires from plugs, bumped starter once and bolt was loose.
> Rest of job was fairly easy. I used OEM belt and water pump, as many
> in this NG suggest. The belt has three marks that are aligned to crank
> and cam sprocket marks. I used a T handle breaker bar in conjunction
> with a hammer to tighten crank bolt during assembly. Got every thing
> assembled, hit starter, and was a happy camper, car started and no leak
> at new water pump gasket. Very productive day, I had to take out a
> front axle and replace both CV boots before I started on timimg belt
> job. Thanks to folks in this NG, both jobs went better than expected!
>
You, Sir, are to be congratulated.
One point - what torque value did you use to replace the crank pulley?
Some say some of the books have a torque too low and it should be higher
(120f/lbs IIRC - anyone?)
Regardless, sounds like a very satisfying experience.
Carl
--
to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net) >> Stay informed about: DIY Timing Belt Replacement |
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Since: May 09, 2004 Posts: 312
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(Msg. 5) Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 7:30 pm
Post subject: Re: DIY Timing Belt Replacement [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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Crank pulley torque values I've seen in writing 120 & 130 foot/pounds
so I picked 125. If you set the torque too low the pulley will slowly
loosen and probably wreck the key, keyway and crankshaft nose. Use a
torque wrench to be sure. Ed
"Carl 1 Lucky Texan" wrote in message
> phatirejunky wrote:
>> Hi,
>> I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem
>> I
>> had was removing crank pulley. I tried conventional methods
>> (strap
>> wrench/breaker bar), but could not budge bolt. I searched NG and
>> learned about the bumping starter method. I was very leary of this
>> method to say the least. I decided to consult my local imports
>> mechanic, he said he used the starter method whenever conventional
>> methods fail. He loaned me a breaker bar, mine was not long enough
>> to
>> reach frame. I carefully positioned breaker bar, one end resting
>> on
>> drivers side frame, making sure to keep bar parallel to crank
>> pulley. I
>> removed plug wires from plugs, bumped starter once and bolt was
>> loose.
>> Rest of job was fairly easy. I used OEM belt and water pump, as
>> many
>> in this NG suggest. The belt has three marks that are aligned to
>> crank
>> and cam sprocket marks. I used a T handle breaker bar in
>> conjunction
>> with a hammer to tighten crank bolt during assembly. Got every
>> thing
>> assembled, hit starter, and was a happy camper, car started and no
>> leak
>> at new water pump gasket. Very productive day, I had to take out a
>> front axle and replace both CV boots before I started on timimg
>> belt
>> job. Thanks to folks in this NG, both jobs went better than
>> expected!
>>
>
> You, Sir, are to be congratulated.
> One point - what torque value did you use to replace the crank
> pulley? Some say some of the books have a torque too low and it
> should be higher (120f/lbs IIRC - anyone?)
>
> Regardless, sounds like a very satisfying experience.
>
>
> Carl
>
>
> --
> to reply, change ( .not) to ( .net) >> Stay informed about: DIY Timing Belt Replacement |
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Since: Dec 16, 2004 Posts: 276
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(Msg. 6) Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 8:03 pm
Post subject: Re: DIY Timing Belt Replacement [Login to view extended thread Info.] Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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phatirejunky wrote:
> Hi,
> I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I
> had was removing crank pulley. I tried conventional methods (strap
> wrench/breaker bar), but could not budge bolt. I searched NG and
> learned about the bumping starter method. I was very leary of this
> method to say the least. I decided to consult my local imports
> mechanic, he said he used the starter method whenever conventional
> methods fail. He loaned me a breaker bar, mine was not long enough to
> reach frame. I carefully positioned breaker bar, one end resting on
> drivers side frame, making sure to keep bar parallel to crank pulley. I
> removed plug wires from plugs, bumped starter once and bolt was loose.
> Rest of job was fairly easy. I used OEM belt and water pump, as many
> in this NG suggest. The belt has three marks that are aligned to crank
> and cam sprocket marks. I used a T handle breaker bar in conjunction
> with a hammer to tighten crank bolt during assembly. Got every thing
> assembled, hit starter, and was a happy camper, car started and no leak
> at new water pump gasket. Very productive day, I had to take out a
> front axle and replace both CV boots before I started on timimg belt
> job. Thanks to folks in this NG, both jobs went better than expected!
On an automatic, you can lock the drive plate by jamming a breaker bar
through the inspection holes into the plate. It is still a bear to get
off, though.
Remco >> Stay informed about: DIY Timing Belt Replacement |
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