Clutch master cylinder

Its a Zen thing really.

Whilst lying there on your back, with the cross member digging in to your
spine, after an hour or so, you develop a trance like state and you just
'think' the clevis pin out...

I have pondered a better replacement, or a panel in the bulkhead to allow
easier access, but I haven't come up with anything yet.

I used an R clip when I replaced mine. Or simply bend one leg of the split
pin so you don't have a mild steel knot to 'untie' next time.

Its a rite of passage I think.

Good luck

P

"GrahamL" <grahamlyons.RemoveThis@internode.ton.net> wrote in message
news:134g63rm0ueoj19@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "GrahamL" <grahamlyons.RemoveThis@internode.ton.net> wrote in message
> news:134e1fu41t1ds66@corp.supernews.com...
>>> On a '78 mini, the pedal is connected to the push-rod fork of the master
>>> cylinder by a clevis pin, with a split-pin through the clevis pin to
>>> stop it falling out. It's a hell of a job to get the split-pin out.
>>> You'll need to take the air-intake hose off the heater to give you
>>> enough space. Try to get your hand in to straighten the split pin (which
>>> will probably cut the ends of your fingers), and then use a pair of
>>> long-nosed pliers to pull it out. Once the split-pin is out you can
>>> usually wiggle the pedal and push out the clevis pin.
>>> Putting it all back is, as Haynes used to say, the inverse process.
>>> Except that if anything, it's even more fiddly!
>>> --
>>> Chris Morriss
>>
>> The seats are out, the heater duct is out, and I will get the steering
>> column out as well. I've managed to get a loop of wire throught the eye
>> of the split pin which should make them easy to get out once I've
>> straightened the pin. I might even fix a wire handle onto the boss end
>> of the clevis pins to get them back in. Looks like I better get the
>> Vallium in for tomorrow then.
>>
>> Thanks Chris
>
> Well, so much for the plans of mice and men. After battling for several
> more hours today, I finally found removing the heater box was the clue.
> One clevis pin was held by a split pin, the other by a spring clip.
> Spring clip's a better idea.
> Wrapping wire loop around the end of the clevis pin before withdrawing
> them completely saved me from losing the pins, by the way.
> G.
>>
>>
>
>

"Peter" <someone.DeleteThis@microsoft.com> wrote in message
news:3rCdnaYXnLITsNPbnZ2dnUVZ8t-nnZ2d@pipex.net...
> Its a Zen thing really.
>
> Whilst lying there on your back, with the cross member digging in to your
> spine, after an hour or so, you develop a trance like state and you just
> 'think' the clevis pin out...
>
> I have pondered a better replacement, or a panel in the bulkhead to allow
> easier access, but I haven't come up with anything yet.
>
> I used an R clip when I replaced mine. Or simply bend one leg of the split
> pin so you don't have a mild steel knot to 'untie' next time.
>
> Its a rite of passage I think.
>
> Good luck
>
> P
>
Peter,

Actually, the brake clevis pin was the real challenge. Getting the split
pin out was a breeze but fluid has been leaking down the push rod for a long
time and the clevis pin was rusted in. After soaking the clevis pin with
some super-duper penetrating, oil I managed to sneek a drift in over the
clutch pedal and then, after giving it a tickle with the blowtorch, hit it
with a big hammer and out popped the clevis pin. So, not bad for a week's
work really!

Another rite of passage ticked off.

G.