Charging problems

Poorman wrote:
> Thanks Al. I've done the tests in my Haynes manual. Nowhere does it mention
> anything about the ammeter. Ed

An ammeter measures the magnetic field around the wires and gives an
indication based on magnetic field strength, which is proportional to
current flow.

On my 79, I pulled the bad ammeter out when I measured battery voltage
at 12.7 Volts and the ammeter didn't show any charge. I modified the
dash insert to hold a similar sized voltmeter. I picked up my system
voltage from the connection I made when I joined the two ammeter wires
together( Don't forget to insulate this connection!!!)

Budd
 >> Stay informed about: Charging problems 

Thanks Al. I've done the tests in my Haynes manual. Nowhere does it mention
anything about the ammeter. Ed
 >> Stay informed about: Charging problems 

>>I have a 1986 Dodge 4X4 150 which will not charge. It has a new battery,
>>new cables, rebuilt alternator (tested), and a new regulator. The ammeter
>>does not work. The needle never moves. If it is burned out, will it
>>interupt the charging curcuit? I'm out of ideas.

> To answer your question, yes -- if the ammeter is open, you will get no
> charging current into the battery. .
>

Try to find a wiring diagram. Starting in 1980 the charging
current did not go through tha ammeter. The ammeter was
connected across a portion of the wire between the alternator and
the battery with a couple of about 20 gauge wires, effectively
using the feed wire as a shunt for the ammeter. An open ammeter
will make no difference. A more likely area to look at is either
of the two heavy plug type connectors in the 6 ga wire between
the alternator and the battery or the 14/12 ga fuse link in the
same wire.
 >> Stay informed about: Charging problems 

The easiest way to check this would be to measure voltage at the alternators
output terminal with the engine not running. If you get no voltage reading
then you have a failed connection or fusible link on the output side. If
you do get battery voltage, I would then put some type of load on that
connection (like a headlight) and measure it again. If you still get
battery voltage or within 1/2 a volt of it, then the connection between the
battery and the alternator output is fine and I would start looking at the
regulator and field wiring as your most likely cause of your problems.

--
If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving
<shafferf.DeleteThis@modempool.com> wrote in message
news:43bbca51@news.modempool.com...
>
> >>I have a 1986 Dodge 4X4 150 which will not charge. It has a new battery,
> >>new cables, rebuilt alternator (tested), and a new regulator. The
ammeter
> >>does not work. The needle never moves. If it is burned out, will it
> >>interupt the charging curcuit? I'm out of ideas.
>
> > To answer your question, yes -- if the ammeter is open, you will get no
> > charging current into the battery. .
> >
>
> Try to find a wiring diagram. Starting in 1980 the charging
> current did not go through tha ammeter. The ammeter was
> connected across a portion of the wire between the alternator and
> the battery with a couple of about 20 gauge wires, effectively
> using the feed wire as a shunt for the ammeter. An open ammeter
> will make no difference. A more likely area to look at is either
> of the two heavy plug type connectors in the 6 ga wire between
> the alternator and the battery or the 14/12 ga fuse link in the
> same wire.
 >> Stay informed about: Charging problems 

<shafferf RemoveThis @modempool.com> wrote in message
news:43bbca51@news.modempool.com...
>
> >>I have a 1986 Dodge 4X4 150 which will not charge. It has a new battery,
> >>new cables, rebuilt alternator (tested), and a new regulator. The
ammeter
> >>does not work. The needle never moves. If it is burned out, will it
> >>interupt the charging curcuit? I'm out of ideas.
>
> > To answer your question, yes -- if the ammeter is open, you will get no
> > charging current into the battery. .
> >
>
> Try to find a wiring diagram. Starting in 1980 the charging
> current did not go through tha ammeter. The ammeter was
> connected across a portion of the wire between the alternator and
> the battery with a couple of about 20 gauge wires, effectively
> using the feed wire as a shunt for the ammeter. An open ammeter
> will make no difference. A more likely area to look at is either
> of the two heavy plug type connectors in the 6 ga wire between
> the alternator and the battery or the 14/12 ga fuse link in the
> same wire.

I stand corrected... if the SHUNT is open, you'll get no charging current.
 >> Stay informed about: Charging problems