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99 k1500 silverado

 
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Leif Magne Berg

External


Since: Dec 20, 2005
Posts: 6



(Msg. 1) Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 7:45 pm
Post subject: 99 k1500 silverado
Archived from groups: alt>autos>4x4>chevy-trucks (more info?)

hi iv'e got a 99 k1500 silverado new body style with the 5,3lit vortec
engine.
my problem is i turn the ignition key on, and everything is fine. lights
come on every gauge reacts and iv'e
got plenty power.When i turn the key to start the engine nothing
happens.somtimes i have to flick the key
about ten times before it cranks over. it starts at once. and then
everything works fine for a week.
i can hear the fuel pump running, and the clicing of some relays.it's just
the last step that fails.
anyone got any ideas?? faulty ignition switch maybe??? in advance thanks

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hh

External


Since: Jun 15, 2006
Posts: 3



(Msg. 2) Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 7:45 pm
Post subject: Re: 99 k1500 silverado [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Yes,
It takes about (usually 700 cold cranking amps of battery to spin over a
motor.)
if you battery is weak it will light all the lamps, run the fuel pump and
turn on everything, but when you hit it with the starter motor there just
isn't enough cold cranking amps left to spin the engine over.

Sometimes this can be indicative of a corroded set of BOLTS which on the
Chevy battery posts.

So if you undo the battery terminals (bolts) and examine them carefully with
the rubber pulled back, if you see any GREEN then this MAY be your problem.
that includes any and especially any Green/White corrosion in the BOLT
THREADS.
This problem may be fixed by a new battery, but not for long, Sometimes the
battery bolts may be warm if you try to crank it as the resistance of the
corrosion heats up like a big resistor.

I had my 87 Chevy do this and strand my wife, I replaced the battery and got
it home, next morning same thing, it was corroded terminals on the battery.

The other one I have seen is an alternator which is shorted on one side of
it internal diode bridge, This makes the alternator put out a half wave
rectified signal instead of a fully rectified waveform, So it charges the
battery but only at half the available alternator output. So the battery
stays sort of charged, but not enough and the battery doesn't seem to last
as long either.
so if you put a meter across the terminals of the battery when the truck is
running, the meter must read at least 13.5 volts, and if its not then you
may have a shorted diode in your alternator (there are 4 in a bridge)

See if any of this helps.

--
JAMES HAYES
"Leif Magne Berg" <lemagber.RemoveThis@frisurf.no> wrote in message
news:WoOdnX45nu1bAQzZ4p2dnA@telenor.com...
> hi iv'e got a 99 k1500 silverado new body style with the 5,3lit vortec
> engine.
> my problem is i turn the ignition key on, and everything is fine. lights
> come on every gauge reacts and iv'e
> got plenty power.When i turn the key to start the engine nothing
> happens.somtimes i have to flick the key
> about ten times before it cranks over. it starts at once. and then
> everything works fine for a week.
> i can hear the fuel pump running, and the clicing of some relays.it's just
> the last step that fails.
> anyone got any ideas?? faulty ignition switch maybe??? in advance thanks
>

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benick

External


Since: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 23



(Msg. 3) Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 11:15 pm
Post subject: Re: 99 k1500 silverado [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Sounds like your starter is going. Auto Zone tests for FREE.
"hh" <howyhaze.TakeThisOut@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:_Dikg.14606$7G2.1861@tornado.tampabay.rr.com...
> Yes,
> It takes about (usually 700 cold cranking amps of battery to spin over a
> motor.)
> if you battery is weak it will light all the lamps, run the fuel pump and
> turn on everything, but when you hit it with the starter motor there just
> isn't enough cold cranking amps left to spin the engine over.
>
> Sometimes this can be indicative of a corroded set of BOLTS which on the
> Chevy battery posts.
>
> So if you undo the battery terminals (bolts) and examine them carefully
> with the rubber pulled back, if you see any GREEN then this MAY be your
> problem. that includes any and especially any Green/White corrosion in the
> BOLT THREADS.
> This problem may be fixed by a new battery, but not for long, Sometimes
> the battery bolts may be warm if you try to crank it as the resistance of
> the corrosion heats up like a big resistor.
>
> I had my 87 Chevy do this and strand my wife, I replaced the battery and
> got it home, next morning same thing, it was corroded terminals on the
> battery.
>
> The other one I have seen is an alternator which is shorted on one side of
> it internal diode bridge, This makes the alternator put out a half wave
> rectified signal instead of a fully rectified waveform, So it charges the
> battery but only at half the available alternator output. So the battery
> stays sort of charged, but not enough and the battery doesn't seem to last
> as long either.
> so if you put a meter across the terminals of the battery when the truck
> is running, the meter must read at least 13.5 volts, and if its not then
> you may have a shorted diode in your alternator (there are 4 in a bridge)
>
> See if any of this helps.
>
> --
> JAMES HAYES
> "Leif Magne Berg" <lemagber.TakeThisOut@frisurf.no> wrote in message
> news:WoOdnX45nu1bAQzZ4p2dnA@telenor.com...
>> hi iv'e got a 99 k1500 silverado new body style with the 5,3lit vortec
>> engine.
>> my problem is i turn the ignition key on, and everything is fine. lights
>> come on every gauge reacts and iv'e
>> got plenty power.When i turn the key to start the engine nothing
>> happens.somtimes i have to flick the key
>> about ten times before it cranks over. it starts at once. and then
>> everything works fine for a week.
>> i can hear the fuel pump running, and the clicing of some relays.it's
>> just the last step that fails.
>> anyone got any ideas?? faulty ignition switch maybe??? in advance thanks
>>
>
>
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pegreenb

External


Since: Jun 16, 2006
Posts: 3



(Msg. 4) Posted: Fri Jun 16, 2006 6:26 am
Post subject: Re: 99 k1500 silverado [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Leif Magne Berg wrote:
> hi iv'e got a 99 k1500 silverado new body style with the 5,3lit vortec
> engine.
> my problem is i turn the ignition key on, and everything is fine. lights
> come on every gauge reacts and iv'e
> got plenty power.When i turn the key to start the engine nothing
> happens.somtimes i have to flick the key
> about ten times before it cranks over. it starts at once. and then
> everything works fine for a week.
> i can hear the fuel pump running, and the clicing of some relays.it's just
> the last step that fails.
> anyone got any ideas?? faulty ignition switch maybe??? in advance thanks


Goto Autozone, have them do a battery/alternator check. Check the
connection at the battery and the starter (I had this on my 93 jimmy
somehow the bolt for the hot cable had come loose and I had a bad
connection at the starter) Then check the fuel pressure, for the all
annoying chevy fuel pump.
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Leif Magne Berg

External


Since: Dec 20, 2005
Posts: 6



(Msg. 5) Posted: Fri Jun 16, 2006 9:22 pm
Post subject: Re: 99 k1500 silverado [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

ive replaced the battery in february. and the battery posts look fine.
maybee i'll take a look at the starter.
THANKYOU GUYS


"hh" <howyhaze RemoveThis @cfl.rr.com> skrev i melding
news:_Dikg.14606$7G2.1861@tornado.tampabay.rr.com...
> Yes,
> It takes about (usually 700 cold cranking amps of battery to spin over a
> motor.)
> if you battery is weak it will light all the lamps, run the fuel pump and
> turn on everything, but when you hit it with the starter motor there just
> isn't enough cold cranking amps left to spin the engine over.
>
> Sometimes this can be indicative of a corroded set of BOLTS which on the
> Chevy battery posts.
>
> So if you undo the battery terminals (bolts) and examine them carefully
> with the rubber pulled back, if you see any GREEN then this MAY be your
> problem. that includes any and especially any Green/White corrosion in the
> BOLT THREADS.
> This problem may be fixed by a new battery, but not for long, Sometimes
> the battery bolts may be warm if you try to crank it as the resistance of
> the corrosion heats up like a big resistor.
>
> I had my 87 Chevy do this and strand my wife, I replaced the battery and
> got it home, next morning same thing, it was corroded terminals on the
> battery.
>
> The other one I have seen is an alternator which is shorted on one side of
> it internal diode bridge, This makes the alternator put out a half wave
> rectified signal instead of a fully rectified waveform, So it charges the
> battery but only at half the available alternator output. So the battery
> stays sort of charged, but not enough and the battery doesn't seem to last
> as long either.
> so if you put a meter across the terminals of the battery when the truck
> is running, the meter must read at least 13.5 volts, and if its not then
> you may have a shorted diode in your alternator (there are 4 in a bridge)
>
> See if any of this helps.
>
> --
> JAMES HAYES
> "Leif Magne Berg" <lemagber RemoveThis @frisurf.no> wrote in message
> news:WoOdnX45nu1bAQzZ4p2dnA@telenor.com...
>> hi iv'e got a 99 k1500 silverado new body style with the 5,3lit vortec
>> engine.
>> my problem is i turn the ignition key on, and everything is fine. lights
>> come on every gauge reacts and iv'e
>> got plenty power.When i turn the key to start the engine nothing
>> happens.somtimes i have to flick the key
>> about ten times before it cranks over. it starts at once. and then
>> everything works fine for a week.
>> i can hear the fuel pump running, and the clicing of some relays.it's
>> just the last step that fails.
>> anyone got any ideas?? faulty ignition switch maybe??? in advance thanks
>>
>
>
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Leif Magne Berg

External


Since: Dec 20, 2005
Posts: 6



(Msg. 6) Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 5:55 pm
Post subject: Re: 99 k1500 silverado [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

it was the points in the starter relay that sits in the under hood relay
boks on the left side. opened the relay
carefully and grinded the points whith som very fine paper.

"Leif Magne Berg" <lemagber.RemoveThis@frisurf.no> skrev i melding
news:WoOdnX45nu1bAQzZ4p2dnA@telenor.com...
> hi iv'e got a 99 k1500 silverado new body style with the 5,3lit vortec
> engine.
> my problem is i turn the ignition key on, and everything is fine. lights
> come on every gauge reacts and iv'e
> got plenty power.When i turn the key to start the engine nothing
> happens.somtimes i have to flick the key
> about ten times before it cranks over. it starts at once. and then
> everything works fine for a week.
> i can hear the fuel pump running, and the clicing of some relays.it's just
> the last step that fails.
> anyone got any ideas?? faulty ignition switch maybe??? in advance thanks
>
 >> Stay informed about: 99 k1500 silverado 
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SnoMan

External


Since: Sep 20, 2005
Posts: 1695



(Msg. 7) Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 6:55 pm
Post subject: Re: 99 k1500 silverado [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

It could be starter soleniod conections too. I just had that problem
this week on my 2000 K3500 (old body style). After only 38k miles the
lead that powers the solenoid to engage starter (smaller wire) was
badly corroded at terminal and the nut was so wasted that I had to
break lug off stud and put a new one on (never had this happen before
in over 35 years). They sure are using cheap materials these days. I
am replacing the whole starter assembly with a new lifetime warranty
one so if this happens again it will be replaced. (the old starter is
starting to corrode bad in general too) Normally I just rebuild them
but this one looks bad. Mine was doing same thing sometimes it would
start and then not start. There was just enough resistance in the lug
connection to drop the voltage just below the soleniods threshold and
prevent it from starting at times. (the soleniod needs about a minimum
of about 9.5 volts to fire reliably and I was getting 11 volt on wire
there but only 8.5 to 9 volts made it to terminal stud itself thru
corrosion. If you jumpered the car it would start because it raise
system voltage enough from other car running to overcome resistance in
connection and start.

On Sun, 23 Jul 2006 22:35:58 +0200, "Leif Magne Berg"
<lemagber DeleteThis @frisurf.no> wrote:

>it was the points in the starter relay that sits in the under hood relay
>boks on the left side. opened the relay
>carefully and grinded the points whith som very fine paper.
>
>"Leif Magne Berg" <lemagber DeleteThis @frisurf.no> skrev i melding
>news:WoOdnX45nu1bAQzZ4p2dnA@telenor.com...
>> hi iv'e got a 99 k1500 silverado new body style with the 5,3lit vortec
>> engine.
>> my problem is i turn the ignition key on, and everything is fine. lights
>> come on every gauge reacts and iv'e
>> got plenty power.When i turn the key to start the engine nothing
>> happens.somtimes i have to flick the key
>> about ten times before it cranks over. it starts at once. and then
>> everything works fine for a week.
>> i can hear the fuel pump running, and the clicing of some relays.it's just
>> the last step that fails.
>> anyone got any ideas?? faulty ignition switch maybe??? in advance thanks
>>
>
-----------------
The SnoMan
www.thesnoman.com
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