99 Ford Escort idles low

Backyard Mechanic wrote:

> > Recently, I've noticed that my 99 ford escort is idling really low.
> > Whenever my car is stopped or parked it starts to vibrate vigorously.
>
> In the absence of any other specific symptoms, I would have to GUESS that
> the Idle Air Control Valve needs replacing.

This symptom appears to be really common on this car in this vintage
range. I've seen several people here complaining about it, and I've had
the problem myself.

I didn't clean nor replace the IAC valve on this car (yet), but what I
did do was replace the air filter, clean the MAF sensor (this seemed to
make a big difference), replaced the PCV valve and wiggled all the
vacuum connections. This set of magic runes totally fixed the problem
for a while.

I suspect I have a vacuum leak somewhere.
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On Sun, 3 Dec 2006, at 7:28pm, wrote:

> This symptom appears to be really common on this car in this vintage
> range. I've seen several people here complaining about it, and I've had
> the problem myself.
>
> I didn't clean nor replace the IAC valve on this car (yet), but what I
> did do was replace the air filter, clean the MAF sensor (this seemed to
> make a big difference), replaced the PCV valve and wiggled all the
> vacuum connections. This set of magic runes totally fixed the problem
> for a while.

I have the same problem with my 1996 Ford Escort. It rumbles VERY roughly
whenever I am idling. I recently replaced the air filter and the IAC
valve, and this helped a bit, but it hasn't entirely eliminated the
problem. Next on my to-do list (whenever I get some free time) is to
clean the MAF sensor and possibly replace the PCV valve to see if that
makes a difference.


> I suspect I have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Is there anyway one can detect this on their own? Would I need to
purchase any specialized tools or sensors to accomplish this?
 >> Stay informed about: 99 Ford Escort idles low 

Thank you all for your suggestions.

Does anyone have any idea how much a mechanic should charge to clean or replace the IAC valve in my car? I just want to get an honest estimate so I can walk into a mechanic's garage knowing whether he is going to rip me off or not.

Thanks.
 >> Stay informed about: 99 Ford Escort idles low 

On Mon, 4 Dec 2006, at 7:25pm, snagglet wrote:

> Does anyone have any idea how much a mechanic should charge to clean or
> replace the IAC valve in my car? I just want to get an honest estimate
> so I can walk into a mechanic's garage knowing whether he is going to
> rip me off or not.

I don't know how much it would cost to clean the IAC, but to replace it,
my local mechanic charged $440 (including tax) for the sensor and labor...
 >> Stay informed about: 99 Ford Escort idles low 

On Mon, 4 Dec 2006, at 10:14pm, David R wrote:

>> I don't know how much it would cost to clean the IAC, but to replace it,
>> my local mechanic charged $440 (including tax) for the sensor and labor...
>
> Lol! didn't you think of buying one yourself, and trying to fit it?
> You've been conned!!!

Well, that was before I got serious about really learning the ropes of car
repair. Trust me, when I saw that bill, I was like, NEVER again!
 >> Stay informed about: 99 Ford Escort idles low 

"Doors of Perception" wrote in message

> On Mon, 4 Dec 2006, at 7:25pm, snagglet wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have any idea how much a mechanic should charge to clean or
>> replace the IAC valve in my car? I just want to get an honest estimate
>> so I can walk into a mechanic's garage knowing whether he is going to rip
>> me off or not.
>
> I don't know how much it would cost to clean the IAC, but to replace it,
> my local mechanic charged $440 (including tax) for the sensor and labor...

Lol! didn't you think of buying one yourself, and trying to fit it? You've
been conned!!!
 >> Stay informed about: 99 Ford Escort idles low 

Doors of Perception wrote:

> On Mon, 4 Dec 2006, at 7:25pm, snagglet wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have any idea how much a mechanic should charge to clean
>> or replace the IAC valve in my car? I just want to get an honest
>> estimate so I can walk into a mechanic's garage knowing whether he is
>> going to rip me off or not.
>
> I don't know how much it would cost to clean the IAC, but to replace
> it, my local mechanic charged $440 (including tax) for the sensor and
> labor...

depending on the engine and configuration and when it was... about twice as
much as reasonable.
And aftermarket is just fine for these.. ask the NAPA counterman for the
best one.

Most guys could do it in fifteen minutes, actual; one of the easiest parts
to replace on many engines

--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
 >> Stay informed about: 99 Ford Escort idles low 

On Tue, 5 Dec 2006, at 10:47pm, Backyard Mechanic wrote:

> depending on the engine and configuration and when it was... about twice
> as much as reasonable. And aftermarket is just fine for these.. ask the
> NAPA counterman for the best one.

I forgot to mention that the price also included the non-refundable $100
"diagnostic fee" (which was basically nothing other than reading off the
OBD-II code) that the mechanic charged. They refused to even look at the
car until I agreed to pay that fee. At the time, I was in a hurry and
couldn't waste time finding another mechanic, so I agreed to pay the hefty
price, even though I knew full well that I was getting ripped off.

But still, yes, it was quite expensive. That particular episode directly
led me to get a serious interest in car repair so that I wouldn't have to
ever pay such an outrageous price again!


> Most guys could do it in fifteen minutes, actual; one of the easiest
> parts to replace on many engines

I couldn't agree more. Unfortunately, at the time, however, I did not
know how relatively simple of a repair this was, so I paid the price for
my ignorance. But never again!
 >> Stay informed about: 99 Ford Escort idles low 

On Tue, 5 Dec 2006 18:59:14 -0500, Doors of Perception
wrote:

>On Tue, 5 Dec 2006, at 10:47pm, Backyard Mechanic wrote:
>
>> depending on the engine and configuration and when it was... about twice
>> as much as reasonable. And aftermarket is just fine for these.. ask the
>> NAPA counterman for the best one.
>
>I forgot to mention that the price also included the non-refundable $100
>"diagnostic fee" (which was basically nothing other than reading off the
>OBD-II code) that the mechanic charged. They refused to even look at the
>car until I agreed to pay that fee. At the time, I was in a hurry and
>couldn't waste time finding another mechanic, so I agreed to pay the hefty
>price, even though I knew full well that I was getting ripped off.
>
>But still, yes, it was quite expensive. That particular episode directly
>led me to get a serious interest in car repair so that I wouldn't have to
>ever pay such an outrageous price again!

Next time, unless you have an overriding need to get the vehicle
back on the road in a big hurry, take that $100 and invest it. Go get
a decent code scanner of your own and a shop manual.

I'll spend a bit more on a laptop-based OBD-II reader solution (sans
laptop, I have that covered already) to get the advanced code reading
for Transmissions and ABS and Airbags and Body ECU's, and the other
fancy stuff they have waiting in the wings.

But the same rule as always applies: If you can solve the problem
simply and be done, great. If you get stumped, STOP before you do any
further damage and take it in to a Mechanic. Tell him the codes it
threw and what you have already tried - so he doesn't have to try the
same things unless he has a suspicion you missed something. And DO
NOT try to tell him what is wrong, only the signs and symptoms - you
may send him off in the wrong direction.

(I'm an Electrician, and you can always tell the people who didn't
follow that rule - They take all the wires in the box apart (three or
four circuits) and try to find the short. But they can't, so they
just put the cover back on and call for help. And now I not only have
to go find the short circuit that started the mess, I also have to
figure out how to hook all the wires back together again so the rest
of the lights work, and on the right switches. Aargh!)

--<< Bruce >>--
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Bruce L. Bergman wrote:

> And DO
> NOT try to tell him what is wrong, only the signs and symptoms - you
> may send him off in the wrong direction.
>

That point cannot be emphasized enough. Anyone who has spent any time in
technical support will tell you the WORST problems are the ones where the
client tells you what is wrong and wants you to fix it..

And you will also see that on here.. often the poster asks "where the O2
sensor is"

Of course that isnt as bad as the office worker who calls IT support and
tells them his "Hard Drive needs reformatting"
-LOL-

> .. And now I not only have
> to go find the short circuit that started the mess, I also have to
> figure out how to hook all the wires back together again so the rest
> of the lights work, and on the right switches. Aargh!)

How about when a tenant calls about a slow drain and you get there and
both sinks are full and he says he put 2 bottles of drain opener in it...

Hmmm.... do I deal with 5 gals of diluted acid, myself, or call a pro for
200 bucks?

--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
 >> Stay informed about: 99 Ford Escort idles low 

Backyard Mechanic wrote:

> both sinks are full and he says he put 2 bottles of drain opener in it...
>
> Hmmm.... do I deal with 5 gals of diluted acid, myself, or call a pro for

Ahem. NaOH - alkaline, not acid.
 >> Stay informed about: 99 Ford Escort idles low 

snagglet wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I'm new here and i have very little knowledge about vehicles.
> Recently, I've noticed that my 99 ford escort is idling really low.
> Whenever my car is stopped or parked it starts to vibrate vigorously.
>
>
> So far, I have about 95000 miles on it and I would like to know if
> there are any suggestions or tips on resolving this issue.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank you.
>

Before you go replacing expensive parts (IAC usually o$50 to $75),
here's something really simple to check, the large air tube between the
air intake and the throttle body, check that for cracks and holes.
When they dry-rot and crack they let too much umetered air into the
throttle body, lowering the idle to the point where the car wants to
stall. If you find one put your hand over it with the engine running
and and watch as the engine begins to idle towards normal.

If you find a crack or hole, put some duct tape on it until you can get
to a parts store. I've had to do this before, works as a temporary
solution. Two hose clamps usually hold the hose on, use a regular
screwdriver to undo the hose clamps and replace the hose.

Should take you five to ten minutes to inspect the hose, five to ten
more to replace it.
 >> Stay informed about: 99 Ford Escort idles low 

Thanks for the descriptive tip. I will go ahead and check on this before seeing a mechanic.

Also, does anyone know any trustworthy mechanics within the San Francisco or Sacramento area?
 >> Stay informed about: 99 Ford Escort idles low