98 intrigue "radiator light"

It is separate from the temperature gauge. It's described in the manual
as the "low coolant warning light". But it's not just a coolant
reservoir sensor, rather it seems to be driven by the "PCM". Today it
was off until reaching normal temperature, and then it was flashing for
about 1/2 second regularly every 5 seconds. But the temperature seemed
normal (about "1/2 scale")-- well, maybe a touch high, it was 103 F
today in Central Texas!

So I'm looking for very specific Olds (or GM) information, regarding
what criteria the control module uses to decide to turn on or flash the
lamp.

Thanks!
John Clonts
Temple, Texas


Silver Surfer wrote:
> Can you clarify which "radiator" light is on? Is it the high temperature
> light or the low coolant light?
>
> wrote in message
>
>> Can someone tell me what causes the instrument panel "radiator light"
>> to stay on? The car is running somewhat hotter than usual. But it has
>> plenty of fluid in the system and the reservoir.
>>
>> The "user manual" says that its just a "cooling system problem" and to
>> check the fluid level, and that the light will go out after 3 heat/cool
>> cycles after the problem is fixed. The Chelton manual does not mention
>> it at all that I can find.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> John
>> Temple, Texas
>>
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: 98 intrigue ""radiator light"" 

Your low coolant warning light is controlled strictly by the coolant level
indicator module on the right side (passenger side) of the radiator.

The coolant temperature warning light is controlled by the PCM.


"John Clonts" wrote in message

> It is separate from the temperature gauge. It's described in the manual
> as the "low coolant warning light". But it's not just a coolant reservoir
> sensor, rather it seems to be driven by the "PCM". Today it was off until
> reaching normal temperature, and then it was flashing for about 1/2
> second regularly every 5 seconds. But the temperature seemed normal
> (about "1/2 scale")-- well, maybe a touch high, it was 103 F today in
> Central Texas!
>
> So I'm looking for very specific Olds (or GM) information, regarding what
> criteria the control module uses to decide to turn on or flash the lamp.
>
> Thanks!
> John Clonts
> Temple, Texas
>
>
> Silver Surfer wrote:
>> Can you clarify which "radiator" light is on? Is it the high temperature
>> light or the low coolant light?
>>
>> wrote in message
>>
>>> Can someone tell me what causes the instrument panel "radiator light"
>>> to stay on? The car is running somewhat hotter than usual. But it has
>>> plenty of fluid in the system and the reservoir.
>>>
>>> The "user manual" says that its just a "cooling system problem" and to
>>> check the fluid level, and that the light will go out after 3 heat/cool
>>> cycles after the problem is fixed. The Chelton manual does not mention
>>> it at all that I can find.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> John
>>> Temple, Texas
>>>
>>
 >> Stay informed about: 98 intrigue ""radiator light"" 

I took it out and cleaned it. The light is not coming on any more!
Thanks!

Now, do you have any tip on resetting the tachometer? Almost every
time I remove/replace the battery, the tach ends up pegged. And then
some days, weeks or months later it finally resets itself. I tried
removing several different fuses relating to the PCM/Instrument
cluster, but that didn't help. And/or, any tip to prevent the tach
pegging? I think it has to do with the momentary, intermittent "dirty"
connection that occurs while I am reconnecting the battery before I get
the bolt tightened.

Cheers,
John

Silver Surfer wrote:
> Your low coolant warning light is controlled strictly by the coolant level
> indicator module on the right side (passenger side) of the radiator.
>
> The coolant temperature warning light is controlled by the PCM.
>
>
> "John Clonts" wrote in message
>
> > It is separate from the temperature gauge. It's described in the manual
> > as the "low coolant warning light". But it's not just a coolant reservoir
> > sensor, rather it seems to be driven by the "PCM". Today it was off until
> > reaching normal temperature, and then it was flashing for about 1/2
> > second regularly every 5 seconds. But the temperature seemed normal
> > (about "1/2 scale")-- well, maybe a touch high, it was 103 F today in
> > Central Texas!
> >
> > So I'm looking for very specific Olds (or GM) information, regarding what
> > criteria the control module uses to decide to turn on or flash the lamp.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > John Clonts
> > Temple, Texas
> >
> >
> > Silver Surfer wrote:
> >> Can you clarify which "radiator" light is on? Is it the high temperature
> >> light or the low coolant light?
> >>
> >> wrote in message
> >>
> >>> Can someone tell me what causes the instrument panel "radiator light"
> >>> to stay on? The car is running somewhat hotter than usual. But it has
> >>> plenty of fluid in the system and the reservoir.
> >>>
> >>> The "user manual" says that its just a "cooling system problem" and to
> >>> check the fluid level, and that the light will go out after 3 heat/cool
> >>> cycles after the problem is fixed. The Chelton manual does not mention
> >>> it at all that I can find.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> John
> >>> Temple, Texas
> >>>
> >>
 >> Stay informed about: 98 intrigue ""radiator light"" 

I am guessing that your tachometer needle is driven by a small stepping
motor. It gets its marching orders from the PCM via the class 2 serial data
bus. When the needle pegs at the upper end could it be stuck mechanically?
If so perhaps a few strategically placed thumps might persuade it to drop
back down. If you already have given it thump therapy then my suggestion
would be to take yours out and inspect it carefully for binding, dry or
damaged gearing, or some other defect. A replacement from the junk yard
might be in order.

There isn't anything on the schematics for your machine that readily
explains why the tach pegs when you disconnect your battery. I agree with
you 100% that the disconnect/connect procedure is a dirty one electrically
speaking.

The 10 amp cluster fuse should take power away from the tach although with
the key off there should be no power to the cluster fuse anyway.

A suggestion would be to pull the PCM fuse and the cluster fuse prior to
doing anything to the battery connection just for the purpose of learning a
little more to help figure out this interesting phenomenon.

wrote in message

>I took it out and cleaned it. The light is not coming on any more!
> Thanks!
>
> Now, do you have any tip on resetting the tachometer? Almost every
> time I remove/replace the battery, the tach ends up pegged. And then
> some days, weeks or months later it finally resets itself. I tried
> removing several different fuses relating to the PCM/Instrument
> cluster, but that didn't help. And/or, any tip to prevent the tach
> pegging? I think it has to do with the momentary, intermittent "dirty"
> connection that occurs while I am reconnecting the battery before I get
> the bolt tightened.
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> Silver Surfer wrote:
>> Your low coolant warning light is controlled strictly by the coolant
>> level
>> indicator module on the right side (passenger side) of the radiator.
>>
>> The coolant temperature warning light is controlled by the PCM.
>>
>>
>> "John Clonts" wrote in message
>>
>> > It is separate from the temperature gauge. It's described in the
>> > manual
>> > as the "low coolant warning light". But it's not just a coolant
>> > reservoir
>> > sensor, rather it seems to be driven by the "PCM". Today it was off
>> > until
>> > reaching normal temperature, and then it was flashing for about 1/2
>> > second regularly every 5 seconds. But the temperature seemed normal
>> > (about "1/2 scale")-- well, maybe a touch high, it was 103 F today in
>> > Central Texas!
>> >
>> > So I'm looking for very specific Olds (or GM) information, regarding
>> > what
>> > criteria the control module uses to decide to turn on or flash the
>> > lamp.
>> >
>> > Thanks!
>> > John Clonts
>> > Temple, Texas
>> >
>> >
>> > Silver Surfer wrote:
>> >> Can you clarify which "radiator" light is on? Is it the high
>> >> temperature
>> >> light or the low coolant light?
>> >>
>> >> wrote in message
>> >>
>> >>> Can someone tell me what causes the instrument panel "radiator light"
>> >>> to stay on? The car is running somewhat hotter than usual. But it
>> >>> has
>> >>> plenty of fluid in the system and the reservoir.
>> >>>
>> >>> The "user manual" says that its just a "cooling system problem" and
>> >>> to
>> >>> check the fluid level, and that the light will go out after 3
>> >>> heat/cool
>> >>> cycles after the problem is fixed. The Chelton manual does not
>> >>> mention
>> >>> it at all that I can find.
>> >>>
>> >>> Thanks,
>> >>> John
>> >>> Temple, Texas
>> >>>
>> >>
>
 >> Stay informed about: 98 intrigue ""radiator light"" 

I'm pretty sure its not a mechanical sticking. Thanks for your
suggestions, similar to my thoughts as well!

John


Silver Surfer wrote:
> I am guessing that your tachometer needle is driven by a small stepping
> motor. It gets its marching orders from the PCM via the class 2 serial data
> bus. When the needle pegs at the upper end could it be stuck mechanically?
> If so perhaps a few strategically placed thumps might persuade it to drop
> back down. If you already have given it thump therapy then my suggestion
> would be to take yours out and inspect it carefully for binding, dry or
> damaged gearing, or some other defect. A replacement from the junk yard
> might be in order.
>
> There isn't anything on the schematics for your machine that readily
> explains why the tach pegs when you disconnect your battery. I agree with
> you 100% that the disconnect/connect procedure is a dirty one electrically
> speaking.
>
> The 10 amp cluster fuse should take power away from the tach although with
> the key off there should be no power to the cluster fuse anyway.
>
> A suggestion would be to pull the PCM fuse and the cluster fuse prior to
> doing anything to the battery connection just for the purpose of learning a
> little more to help figure out this interesting phenomenon.
 >> Stay informed about: 98 intrigue ""radiator light"" 

For the record, I drilled a tiny hole at the base of clear "face panel"
and stuck a wire in there. I could move the needle freely. After I
started the car, I used the wire to lift the needle up into the
on-scale region of the tach (i.e. < 8000rpm IIRC). Once it was in that
region it flipped on over to the proper reading and is working now.

Pretty drastic I know, but I was frustrated

Good news is that the small hole is covered by the black trim piece.
Bad news is there were a few flecks of plastic--from the drilling--that
remained inside the unit, which will probably impossible to clean out.

Cheers,
John

wrote:
> I'm pretty sure its not a mechanical sticking. Thanks for your
> suggestions, similar to my thoughts as well!
>
> John
>
>
> Silver Surfer wrote:
> > I am guessing that your tachometer needle is driven by a small stepping
> > motor. It gets its marching orders from the PCM via the class 2 serial data
> > bus. When the needle pegs at the upper end could it be stuck mechanically?
> > If so perhaps a few strategically placed thumps might persuade it to drop
> > back down. If you already have given it thump therapy then my suggestion
> > would be to take yours out and inspect it carefully for binding, dry or
> > damaged gearing, or some other defect. A replacement from the junk yard
> > might be in order.
> >
> > There isn't anything on the schematics for your machine that readily
> > explains why the tach pegs when you disconnect your battery. I agree with
> > you 100% that the disconnect/connect procedure is a dirty one electrically
> > speaking.
> >
> > The 10 amp cluster fuse should take power away from the tach although with
> > the key off there should be no power to the cluster fuse anyway.
> >
> > A suggestion would be to pull the PCM fuse and the cluster fuse prior to
> > doing anything to the battery connection just for the purpose of learning a
> > little more to help figure out this interesting phenomenon.
 >> Stay informed about: 98 intrigue ""radiator light"" 

Very interesting. I understand your frustration perfectly. One thing now
is that you will have a quick way to "fix" it should the same thing happen
in the future. Wish I knew more about the workings of the tach gauge to
better understand what is happening when the needle goes full scale.

My suspicions are that there is a magnet involved between the drive and the
needle. Perhaps when the needle slams hard full scale it goes beyond the
pull of the magnet and gravity holds it there until you move it back into
magnetic range with your wire.

Have you thought about removing the cluster to get at those plastic
shavings? Getting the trim off might be the most difficult part of that
task.





wrote in message

> For the record, I drilled a tiny hole at the base of clear "face panel"
> and stuck a wire in there. I could move the needle freely. After I
> started the car, I used the wire to lift the needle up into the
> on-scale region of the tach (i.e. < 8000rpm IIRC). Once it was in that
> region it flipped on over to the proper reading and is working now.
>
> Pretty drastic I know, but I was frustrated
>
> Good news is that the small hole is covered by the black trim piece.
> Bad news is there were a few flecks of plastic--from the drilling--that
> remained inside the unit, which will probably impossible to clean out.
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> wrote:
>> I'm pretty sure its not a mechanical sticking. Thanks for your
>> suggestions, similar to my thoughts as well!
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>> Silver Surfer wrote:
>> > I am guessing that your tachometer needle is driven by a small stepping
>> > motor. It gets its marching orders from the PCM via the class 2 serial
>> > data
>> > bus. When the needle pegs at the upper end could it be stuck
>> > mechanically?
>> > If so perhaps a few strategically placed thumps might persuade it to
>> > drop
>> > back down. If you already have given it thump therapy then my
>> > suggestion
>> > would be to take yours out and inspect it carefully for binding, dry or
>> > damaged gearing, or some other defect. A replacement from the junk
>> > yard
>> > might be in order.
>> >
>> > There isn't anything on the schematics for your machine that readily
>> > explains why the tach pegs when you disconnect your battery. I agree
>> > with
>> > you 100% that the disconnect/connect procedure is a dirty one
>> > electrically
>> > speaking.
>> >
>> > The 10 amp cluster fuse should take power away from the tach although
>> > with
>> > the key off there should be no power to the cluster fuse anyway.
>> >
>> > A suggestion would be to pull the PCM fuse and the cluster fuse prior
>> > to
>> > doing anything to the battery connection just for the purpose of
>> > learning a
>> > little more to help figure out this interesting phenomenon.
>
 >> Stay informed about: 98 intrigue ""radiator light"" 

I have a 1988 olds ciera and my tach has "pegged" twice about 4 years
apart. I never connected the problem to disconnecting the battery,
but it very well could be that.
What I did in both cases was take the dash apart (not a very fun job)
to the point where I could spin the tach dial by hand. It completely
rotates 360 degrees freely. There is no physical stop or
springs connected to the dial.
Since I could find no problem there I put the dash back together and
Voila the tach worked, both times. I did not disconnect any
electrical connections in the process.



On 16 Jun 2006 09:15:51 -0700, wrote:

>For the record, I drilled a tiny hole at the base of clear "face panel"
>and stuck a wire in there. I could move the needle freely. After I
>started the car, I used the wire to lift the needle up into the
>on-scale region of the tach (i.e. < 8000rpm IIRC). Once it was in that
>region it flipped on over to the proper reading and is working now.
>
>Pretty drastic I know, but I was frustrated
>
>Good news is that the small hole is covered by the black trim piece.
>Bad news is there were a few flecks of plastic--from the drilling--that
>remained inside the unit, which will probably impossible to clean out.
>
>Cheers,
>John
>
> wrote:
>> I'm pretty sure its not a mechanical sticking. Thanks for your
>> suggestions, similar to my thoughts as well!
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>> Silver Surfer wrote:
>> > I am guessing that your tachometer needle is driven by a small stepping
>> > motor. It gets its marching orders from the PCM via the class 2 serial data
>> > bus. When the needle pegs at the upper end could it be stuck mechanically?
>> > If so perhaps a few strategically placed thumps might persuade it to drop
>> > back down. If you already have given it thump therapy then my suggestion
>> > would be to take yours out and inspect it carefully for binding, dry or
>> > damaged gearing, or some other defect. A replacement from the junk yard
>> > might be in order.
>> >
>> > There isn't anything on the schematics for your machine that readily
>> > explains why the tach pegs when you disconnect your battery. I agree with
>> > you 100% that the disconnect/connect procedure is a dirty one electrically
>> > speaking.
>> >
>> > The 10 amp cluster fuse should take power away from the tach although with
>> > the key off there should be no power to the cluster fuse anyway.
>> >
>> > A suggestion would be to pull the PCM fuse and the cluster fuse prior to
>> > doing anything to the battery connection just for the purpose of learning a
>> > little more to help figure out this interesting phenomenon.
 >> Stay informed about: 98 intrigue ""radiator light""