95 Blazer 4x4 Blower motor

I appreciate the quick response! So where do you access it from, behind the
glove box?? Skill wise, I know enough to be dangerous when it comes to
this, that's about it. I will most likely just take to a shop, but I
figured with book time rates exceeding $60 bucks an hour, I might try it
myself... What did you pay for the motor you did on the 96? Just curious.

Thanks again!

Doug


"blazerman" <jerry.RemoveThis@peru-motors.com> wrote in message
news:1170365508.757037.44950@h3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
> pita-did one on a 96 last saturday. Unsure of your skills but... I'd
> recommend a Haynes or Chilton/GM book and even those are a pita but..
> (poor-incomplete info). Also don't know how many funds you have or if
> you've got an honest skilled mechanic. It is diy dooable and you will
> possibly even see links or info on the web without buying a manual(if
> you don't have one already). Plus-I, based on the degree on
> difficulty, would'nt do it until your other one goes. My customer
> with his 96 had it last almost a year after the initial noise
> started. Good luckpjerry.RemoveThis@peru-motors.com
>
>
>
> On Feb 1, 2:32 pm, "Doug" <DZappyNOS....RemoveThis@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> Hi folks!
>>
>> I have a 1995 Blazer 4x4 with the Vortec, and AC, and I think my blower
>> motor is going out. I have replaced the switch, and it is working for
>> now,
>> but I have a feeling the motor is what might be bad now. IF it is the
>> blower
>> motor, where is it located? I see an enclosure around where the AC stuff
>> goes into the firewall, is that where it is? Do you access if from
>> there,
>> or do you have to go behind the glove box? What is the easierst method
>> of
>> swapping this? Or is it better left to a shop? PITA or not?
>>
>> Thanks guys, in advance!
>>
>> Doug
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: 95 Blazer 4x4 Blower motor 

I bought an AC Delco motor because in the past I've had issues with
the volume of air the aftermarket units provide. I've also been using
AC Delco units for quite a few years-no problems. Now some bad news-
they have a list price of about $120.00 US dollars-I'm not at liberty
to discuss 'cost' here but you may get a discount off that price. I'm
sure the aftermarket is cheaper but sometimes cheaper is not better.
Here's a phrase I picked up on this site: Good parts aren't cheap and
cheap parts aren't good! Anyhow if you want a fun project go ahead.
BTY why do you feel you need a blower motor but if you do the coolant
jug comes off(you can unbolt it and swing it into the engine center
compartment-leaving the hose hooked up) as well as make sure you
unhook your negative batttery terminal. The computer will have to
come out(be cautious). There will now be a loom of various wires that
have to be unhooked and moved to the side. This will reveal the
location of the heater motor. Another word of advise-if your motor &
%*ts the bed or is quite intermittant, you, before all this, can
unplug your old one and temporarily plug in the new one in your hand
and CAREFULLY have an assistant turn it on and try all speeds. Hold
it tight-if only 2 speed work I'd bet your problem is the resistor-
which is one of the two problems we had with that 96 Saturday. Once
all those wires are moved enough,(not alot be cautious) now where
marked, you'll have to take a utility knive and cit where GM has
marked and remove the outer plastic shell(that may break all to pieces
as did the one I did Saturday) This plastic cover removal will now
reveal the heater motor. It'll be held in place with 6-7 quater
inch/ 7-32nds bolts. If memory serves me correct there may have even
been 5 of one and two of the other.(nice-and a couple are dandys to
get at-in fact when the motor is completely 'free', you'll still have
a fun job getting it out of there-use care as you put it back in.)
Replacement is reverse of removal. Simple! I can't tell you what
your time or satisfaction in doing a job is worth but...if you had an
honest mechanic and he quoted-oh well I can't make this decision. If
you do it allow atleast a couple of hours of your day for this
project(possibly more depending on many factors) Good luck-keep us
posted because we love to here about fun jobs where the manufacturer
designed something as fun as this to do! jerry@peru-motors!





On Feb 2, 12:18 am, "Doug" <DZappyNOS... DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote:
> I appreciate the quick response! So where do you access it from, behind the
> glove box?? Skill wise, I know enough to be dangerous when it comes to
> this, that's about it. I will most likely just take to a shop, but I
> figured with book time rates exceeding $60 bucks an hour, I might try it
> myself... What did you pay for the motor you did on the 96? Just curious.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Doug
>
> "blazerman" <j... DeleteThis @peru-motors.com> wrote in message
>
> news:1170365508.757037.44950@h3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
>
> > pita-did one on a 96 last saturday. Unsure of your skills but... I'd
> > recommend a Haynes or Chilton/GM book and even those are a pita but..
> > (poor-incomplete info). Also don't know how many funds you have or if
> > you've got an honest skilled mechanic. It is diy dooable and you will
> > possibly even see links or info on the web without buying a manual(if
> > you don't have one already). Plus-I, based on the degree on
> > difficulty, would'nt do it until your other one goes. My customer
> > with his 96 had it last almost a year after the initial noise
> > started. Good luckpje... DeleteThis @peru-motors.com
>
> > On Feb 1, 2:32 pm, "Doug" <DZappyNOS... DeleteThis @hotmail.com> wrote:
> >> Hi folks!
>
> >> I have a 1995 Blazer 4x4 with the Vortec, and AC, and I think my blower
> >> motor is going out. I have replaced the switch, and it is working for
> >> now,
> >> but I have a feeling the motor is what might be bad now. IF it is the
> >> blower
> >> motor, where is it located? I see an enclosure around where the AC stuff
> >> goes into the firewall, is that where it is? Do you access if from
> >> there,
> >> or do you have to go behind the glove box? What is the easierst method
> >> of
> >> swapping this? Or is it better left to a shop? PITA or not?
>
> >> Thanks guys, in advance!
>
> >> Doug
 >> Stay informed about: 95 Blazer 4x4 Blower motor 

Doug, I could be off-base here but as I recall, on the 95s specifically,
you need to **cut** the blower motor housing along a dotted line to access
the motor. You then need to **glue** or **screw** that piece back on. I
don't see the logic of designing something this way other than the fact that
it makes for a nice airtight seal. That being said, the plastic on my
blower housing is so brittle I can break into it by hand...
Good luck!
Andrew.



in article UQzwh.14612$Hb6.7403@trndny02, Doug at DZappyNOSPAM.RemoveThis@hotmail.com
wrote on 2/2/07 12:18 AM:

> I appreciate the quick response! So where do you access it from, behind the
> glove box?? Skill wise, I know enough to be dangerous when it comes to
> this, that's about it. I will most likely just take to a shop, but I
> figured with book time rates exceeding $60 bucks an hour, I might try it
> myself... What did you pay for the motor you did on the 96? Just curious.
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Doug
 >> Stay informed about: 95 Blazer 4x4 Blower motor