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98 Legacy outback - CV Joint roll pin removal HELP!

 
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moophus




Joined: Sep 12, 2008
Posts: 2



(Msg. 1) Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 9:15 pm
Post subject: 98 Legacy outback - CV Joint roll pin removal HELP!

Any help/tips/tricks from seasoned subaru wrenchers on getting the passenger front roll pin out of the inner CV Axle hub?

My punch is too short to get to from the bottom (that little hole between the exhaust, o2 sensor and frame) and the space up top is very hard to reach to wack at it.

any help is appreciated.
thx!

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gflong

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Since: Dec 11, 2004
Posts: 202



(Msg. 2) Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 9:15 pm
Post subject: Re: 98 Legacy outback - CV Joint roll pin removal HELP! [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

First, make sure your punch is the correct size. Thinking 3/16 but not
sure. I extend/increase the length of the pin punch by using a 12" 3/8th
drive extension. (Wish I could draw a picture.) The "hammer" end of the
punch slips inside the "rachet" end of the extension and you hammer on the
"socket" end of the extension.

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moophus




Joined: Sep 12, 2008
Posts: 2



(Msg. 3) Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 4:11 pm
Post subject: Re: 98 Legacy outback - CV Joint roll pin removal HELP! [Login to view extended thread Info.]

any good forum should have not only questions but also the answers....cuz that's what people come here for right?

well, I finally popped that pin out.

for reference sake: the pin is precisely 7/32" in diameter
I found a threaded rod that was 3/16" - the closest thing that I could find at my local hardware store.

punched that bad boy out from underneath. it was such a pain.

If I had the proper punch it would have gone a lot faster.

after putting the new axle in, I thought I had the holes lined up and started pounding the pin back in. it was off by a smidgen so I wasted about 40 minutes trying to force the pin through before I figured it was unaligned.

backpedal a few steps, turned the axle 180 degrees and it lined up perfectly.
Pin goes back with some effort but not nearly as much frustration.
the rest all comes back together pretty quick.

One thing I did different than every other post/article/howto I found was I unbolted the two 19mm bolts that connect the strut to the hub. These two bolts are SO much easier to remove than the ball joint. the only problem is that these bolts also adjust the camber. Well, fortunately the car is old and grimy, I just just adjusted the camber until the grime outline matched the old (by turning the top bolt).

voila, without the pin removal, this job was quite easy. I believe the left side (which I didn't do) would be a lot easier because of access to that stinking pin.

hope this will help someone one day.

over and out.
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