Sounds pretty good Lugnut. Going to Autozone to get the IAC Valve and the
O2 Sensors. I'll also inquire about the PCV Valve since I still have the
original in place.
I was wondering about your comment concerning the B12 I pour into the tank
monthly...primarily for water removal and cleaning of the fuel system. Do
you really think it's a waste of money, and that fuel quality is that good?
Anyway, I'll post the results of the fixes this afternoon.
Thanx to all respondents.
Vito
"lugnut" <lugnut.DeleteThis@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:4ku4h2t1kesthaaru4cov18vh5sv66o2oa@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 16:25:48 -0500, "Vito"
> <vitointn.DeleteThis@spamkill_charter.net> wrote:
>
>>At first was hard to start, but will now start but idle poorly (almost
>>stalling, then smoothing out repeatedly). Also lack of power on
>>acceleration.
>>
>>I poured my monthly can of B-12 Chemtool into the gas tank a couple of
>>days
>>ago - I've never had problems before doing this in over 230K miles.
>>
>>Pulled the IAC and cleaned it...no change.
>>
>>Pulled all plugs and cleaned them...no change.
>>
>>Pulled codes P1504 (Idle Air Circuit) and P0153 (O2 Sensor circuit slow
>>response; Bank 2 Sensor 1)
>>
>>Any ideas of where to look next?
>>
>>Vito
>>
>
>
> Your problems are classic for a bad/dirty IAC. They usually
> do not give a code for being dirty other than lack of
> throttle response during diagnostic scanning. Since you
> have an IAC circuit fault and the symptoms are there, I
> suggest your next step is a new IAC - forget cleaning.
> Also, clean your MAF sensor. There are numerous sites with
> pics on the net on how to do this. If you have not already,
> replace your PCV valve and make sure you replace the filter
> under the PCV valve. It is located in the top of the block
> behind the right rear of the intake manifold. You will need
> long needle nosed pliers to extract the filter. Damn sure
> not easy to get at but highly recommended to help prevent
> blown seals and oil pan gaskets which are even more of a
> bitch to replace on your Explorer. A new O2 sensor is the
> only cure for the O2 sensor code. IIRC, that would be the
> one in the left bank. You should replace both as a matched
> pair. These are also recommended maintenace interval items
> even if most folks don't bother - many don't bother with
> maintenance at all since it is only one more way the dealers
> have to screw their customers (TIC).
>
> AS far as checking plugs, you are pretty much wasting your
> time unless you are getting a misfire code or you have
> arrived at the recommended change interval. When you
> replace the plugs, stay away from the Bosch plugs - the Ford
> and GM vehicles I have had did not like them. For about the
> same money, you can use the recommended OEM Motorcraft
> replacement or the Autolite plugs with good results. A
> spark plug can only ignite the mix one time no matter how
> expensive or how many fancy electrodes it may have.
> Anything it does beyond that is of no use. Use only the
> recommended type plug at the proper gap specified on the
> decal in the engine compartment unless you have modified the
> engine.
>
> Lastly, why a can a B12 every month? Can't you buy decent
> gas in your area?!! It is not often that injectors need
> attention because of clogging unless you are using poor
> quality fuel. The major brands in the US blent higher than
> required levels of these additives to maintain the fuel
> system in clean operating condition. I am not a fan of
> constant additive use unless a good quality fuel or
> lubricant to do the job is not available.
>
> Regards
>
> Lugnut >> Stay informed about: 98 Explorer 5.0 poor idle 
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