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Next: Toyota did it!
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External
Since: Mar 01, 2007
Posts: 26
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(Msg. 1) Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 9:31 am
Post subject: 95 Geo Prizm
Archived from groups: alt>autos>toyota (more info?)
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My car started running a little bit rougher than usual about a week ago and
today my check engine light went on. I pulled the code and got codes 25 and
26. According to the manual one is for an overly rich air/fuel ratio and one
is for a overly lean air/fuel ratio. Sounds weird to me, but I checked 3
times. First it brings up 25 and then 26. Where do I go from here?
The car has 180K/mi on it and the spark plugs were changed about 45K ago. If
you guys need any more info please let me know. Thanks so much.
Jeremy |
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External
Since: Jun 02, 2006
Posts: 4627
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(Msg. 2) Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 9:52 am
Post subject: Re: 95 Geo Prizm [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Reasoned Insanity" wrote in message
> My car started running a little bit rougher than usual about a week ago
> and today my check engine light went on. I pulled the code and got codes
> 25 and 26. According to the manual one is for an overly rich air/fuel
> ratio and one is for a overly lean air/fuel ratio. Sounds weird to me, but
> I checked 3 times. First it brings up 25 and then 26. Where do I go from
> here?
>
> The car has 180K/mi on it and the spark plugs were changed about 45K ago.
> If you guys need any more info please let me know. Thanks so much.
>
>
> Jeremy
The ECU will always store diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) from lowest
numerically to highest numerically.
Since the 2 codes you listed are opposite in nature, I would start by
checking the things that have an effect and measure air/fuel ratio.
First, the stuff that will have an effect on air/fuel ratio:
Check the condition of the black plastic tubing that runs from the air
filter housing to the throttle body for cracks, holes, or gaps.
Check the air filter to make sure it is not clogged, torn, or warped.
Check for any manifold vacuum leaks or disconnected vacuum hoses, paying
attention to vacuum switching valves to make sure they are not cracked or
damaged.
Check the mass air flow sensor to make sure the connector is secure. There
is a wire inside the MAF sensor that heats up, and is cooled by air passing
through. If the wire is dirty, it won't sense properly. You can try
cleaning it by giving it a shot of carburetor cleaner and letting the liquid
drip out of the opening. Do not damage the wire, or you will need a new MAF
sensor. My guess is that a dirty or clogged MAF sensor is the cause.
If you use a lot of cheap gas, try a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel injector
cleaner and see if that helps.
If you used anything other than OEM spark plugs and related ignition parts
when you replaced them, stick to OEM the next time you replace them. Some
aftermarket ignition parts don't last as long as OEM. Check the condition
of the spark plugs to see if they have a uniform, fine-gray color.
Next, check the stuff that measures the air/fuel ratio, which is basically
the O2 sensor. Use your shop manual and a multimeter to check the O2 sensor
and while you're at it, check to make sure the connector is not damaged or
loose. If the O2 sensor does not check out according to the manual, replace
it with an OEM O2 sensor.
Good luck!
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply) |
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External
Since: Mar 01, 2007
Posts: 26
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(Msg. 3) Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:09 am
Post subject: Re: 95 Geo Prizm [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote in message
>
> "Reasoned Insanity" wrote in message
>
>> My car started running a little bit rougher than usual about a week ago
>> and today my check engine light went on. I pulled the code and got codes
>> 25 and 26. According to the manual one is for an overly rich air/fuel
>> ratio and one is for a overly lean air/fuel ratio. Sounds weird to me,
>> but I checked 3 times. First it brings up 25 and then 26. Where do I go
>> from here?
>>
>> The car has 180K/mi on it and the spark plugs were changed about 45K ago.
>> If you guys need any more info please let me know. Thanks so much.
>>
>>
>> Jeremy
>
> The ECU will always store diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) from lowest
> numerically to highest numerically.
>
> Since the 2 codes you listed are opposite in nature, I would start by
> checking the things that have an effect and measure air/fuel ratio.
>
> First, the stuff that will have an effect on air/fuel ratio:
>
> Check the condition of the black plastic tubing that runs from the air
> filter housing to the throttle body for cracks, holes, or gaps.
>
> Check the air filter to make sure it is not clogged, torn, or warped.
>
> Check for any manifold vacuum leaks or disconnected vacuum hoses, paying
> attention to vacuum switching valves to make sure they are not cracked or
> damaged.
>
> Check the mass air flow sensor to make sure the connector is secure.
> There is a wire inside the MAF sensor that heats up, and is cooled by air
> passing through. If the wire is dirty, it won't sense properly. You can
> try cleaning it by giving it a shot of carburetor cleaner and letting the
> liquid drip out of the opening. Do not damage the wire, or you will need
> a new MAF sensor. My guess is that a dirty or clogged MAF sensor is the
> cause.
>
> If you use a lot of cheap gas, try a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel
> injector cleaner and see if that helps.
>
> If you used anything other than OEM spark plugs and related ignition parts
> when you replaced them, stick to OEM the next time you replace them. Some
> aftermarket ignition parts don't last as long as OEM. Check the condition
> of the spark plugs to see if they have a uniform, fine-gray color.
>
> Next, check the stuff that measures the air/fuel ratio, which is basically
> the O2 sensor. Use your shop manual and a multimeter to check the O2
> sensor and while you're at it, check to make sure the connector is not
> damaged or loose. If the O2 sensor does not check out according to the
> manual, replace it with an OEM O2 sensor.
>
> Good luck!
> --
>
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)
>
Thank Ray...I also have a little more information.
I just changed the air filter today after getting the trouble codes hoping
that would be a simple fix. I also pulled the plugs and they look good like
I'm burning clean. As I recall, the codes should clear themselves when I
restart the car if the problem/s were fixed. Sadly they are still there.
Also, I'm not positive, but I think I have been using more gas than usual. >> Stay informed about: 95 Geo Prizm |
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External
Since: Jun 02, 2006
Posts: 4627
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(Msg. 4) Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 12:13 pm
Post subject: Re: 95 Geo Prizm [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Reasoned Insanity" wrote in message
>
> "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote in message
>
>>
>> "Reasoned Insanity" wrote in message
>>
>>> My car started running a little bit rougher than usual about a week ago
>>> and today my check engine light went on. I pulled the code and got codes
>>> 25 and 26. According to the manual one is for an overly rich air/fuel
>>> ratio and one is for a overly lean air/fuel ratio. Sounds weird to me,
>>> but I checked 3 times. First it brings up 25 and then 26. Where do I go
>>> from here?
>>>
>>> The car has 180K/mi on it and the spark plugs were changed about 45K
>>> ago. If you guys need any more info please let me know. Thanks so much.
>>>
>>>
>>> Jeremy
>>
>> The ECU will always store diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) from lowest
>> numerically to highest numerically.
>>
>> Since the 2 codes you listed are opposite in nature, I would start by
>> checking the things that have an effect and measure air/fuel ratio.
>>
>> First, the stuff that will have an effect on air/fuel ratio:
>>
>> Check the condition of the black plastic tubing that runs from the air
>> filter housing to the throttle body for cracks, holes, or gaps.
>>
>> Check the air filter to make sure it is not clogged, torn, or warped.
>>
>> Check for any manifold vacuum leaks or disconnected vacuum hoses, paying
>> attention to vacuum switching valves to make sure they are not cracked or
>> damaged.
>>
>> Check the mass air flow sensor to make sure the connector is secure.
>> There is a wire inside the MAF sensor that heats up, and is cooled by air
>> passing through. If the wire is dirty, it won't sense properly. You can
>> try cleaning it by giving it a shot of carburetor cleaner and letting the
>> liquid drip out of the opening. Do not damage the wire, or you will need
>> a new MAF sensor. My guess is that a dirty or clogged MAF sensor is the
>> cause.
>>
>> If you use a lot of cheap gas, try a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel
>> injector cleaner and see if that helps.
>>
>> If you used anything other than OEM spark plugs and related ignition
>> parts when you replaced them, stick to OEM the next time you replace
>> them. Some aftermarket ignition parts don't last as long as OEM. Check
>> the condition of the spark plugs to see if they have a uniform, fine-gray
>> color.
>>
>> Next, check the stuff that measures the air/fuel ratio, which is
>> basically the O2 sensor. Use your shop manual and a multimeter to check
>> the O2 sensor and while you're at it, check to make sure the connector is
>> not damaged or loose. If the O2 sensor does not check out according to
>> the manual, replace it with an OEM O2 sensor.
>>
>> Good luck!
>> --
>>
>> Ray O
>> (correct punctuation to reply)
>>
>
> Thank Ray...I also have a little more information.
>
> I just changed the air filter today after getting the trouble codes hoping
> that would be a simple fix. I also pulled the plugs and they look good
> like I'm burning clean. As I recall, the codes should clear themselves
> when I restart the car if the problem/s were fixed. Sadly they are still
> there. Also, I'm not positive, but I think I have been using more gas than
> usual.
OK, you can rule out the air filter and ignition system.
The codes on the first generation on board diagnostics (OBD I) will not
clear themselves. Pull the ECU main fuse or disconnect the negative battery
terminal for about 5 ~ 10 seconds to clear the codes.
If you are using more gas, try the Chevron Techron and check the MAF sensor.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply) >> Stay informed about: 95 Geo Prizm |
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External
Since: Feb 14, 2005
Posts: 107
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(Msg. 5) Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:10 am
Post subject: Re: 95 Geo Prizm [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On Dec 28, 11:09 am, "Reasoned Insanity"
wrote:
>
> I just changed the air filter today after getting the trouble codes hoping
> that would be a simple fix. I also pulled the plugs and they look good like
> I'm burning clean. As I recall, the codes should clear themselves when I
> restart the car if the problem/s were fixed. Sadly they are still there.
> Also, I'm not positive, but I think I have been using more gas than usual.
As Ray mentioned, yours does not self clear.. But even if it was
OBD-2,
it often will take a while for this to happen, the amount of time
depending
on the circuit in question. It will almost never be instantly off the
next
time you start the car. It will have to run it's various tests, and
when they quit
failing, then it will eventually kill the light. This can take a few
run cycles in
some cases.
MK >> Stay informed about: 95 Geo Prizm |
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External
Since: Jun 02, 2006
Posts: 4627
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(Msg. 6) Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 11:01 am
Post subject: Re: 95 Geo Prizm [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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wrote in message
> On Dec 28, 11:09 am, "Reasoned Insanity"
> wrote:
>
>>
>> I just changed the air filter today after getting the trouble codes
>> hoping
>> that would be a simple fix. I also pulled the plugs and they look good
>> like
>> I'm burning clean. As I recall, the codes should clear themselves when I
>> restart the car if the problem/s were fixed. Sadly they are still there.
>> Also, I'm not positive, but I think I have been using more gas than
>> usual.
>
> As Ray mentioned, yours does not self clear.. But even if it was
> OBD-2,
> it often will take a while for this to happen, the amount of time
> depending
> on the circuit in question. It will almost never be instantly off the
> next
> time you start the car. It will have to run it's various tests, and
> when they quit
> failing, then it will eventually kill the light. This can take a few
> run cycles in
> some cases.
> MK
In a vehicle with OBD II, the system needs to see 2 drive cycles without
detecting the fault to extinguish the check engine light. A "drive cycle"
is a cold start, driving at X MPH for a certain distance, then driving at Y
MPH for a certain distance, with engine coolant temp reaching normal, the
ECU reaching closed loop operation, and the transmission running through all
of the gears and lockup.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply) >> Stay informed about: 95 Geo Prizm |
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External
Since: Mar 01, 2007
Posts: 26
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(Msg. 7) Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:27 am
Post subject: Re: 95 Geo Prizm [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Reasoned Insanity" wrote in message
> My car started running a little bit rougher than usual about a week ago
> and today my check engine light went on. I pulled the code and got codes
> 25 and 26. According to the manual one is for an overly rich air/fuel
> ratio and one is for a overly lean air/fuel ratio. Sounds weird to me, but
> I checked 3 times. First it brings up 25 and then 26. Where do I go from
> here?
>
> The car has 180K/mi on it and the spark plugs were changed about 45K ago.
> If you guys need any more info please let me know. Thanks so much.
>
>
> Jeremy
>
It turned out to be a burnt spark plug wire. I found it a week ago, but for
some reason my regular computer isnt configured to post to newsgroups. >> Stay informed about: 95 Geo Prizm |
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