"geronimo" wrote in message
>
> Another little problem I can use some advice on.....
>
> it has the 3S-FE engine......
>
> I replaced the camshaft oil seal. The timing belt slipped on the crank
> sprocket, so I lost the setting. No problem with the camshaft pulley,
> i had it lined up with the dot. So for the crankshaft setting, I
> pulled out no. 1 sparkplug and carefully set that piston to TDC. Then
> installed belt back on camshaft pulley. However, now the car is not
> leaking oil.... but the idle is slower, and it seems to have lost
> power somewhat. I have a very nice Equus timing light, so I need to
> check how the basic timing is set. But I think that you have to
> install a jumper in the diagnostic connector to check *basic* timing.
> And when I do this, is the crank pulley notch suppose to align at zero
> mark and not change with engine speed? I have heard that if the basic
> timing is off even one tooth off, it can mess up performance. When
> releasing the idler pulley to tension the belt, one pulley or the
> other could easily have jumped over to the next/wrong tooth.
>
> And if I determine that it is advanced or retarded, I am not sure
> which way to turn either the camshaft or crankshaft in order to
> correct it. Like, is one degree of error equal one notch on the belt,
> or what?
>
> Thanks, Geronimo
To make things a little less confusing, refer to crankshaft/camshaft timing
as cam timing, and refer to ignition timing that you check with a timing
light as ignition timing.
After you release tension on the idler pulley, you should re-check cam
timing before replacing the timing cover. At this point, you should
disconnect the negative terminal on the battery and turn the engine over by
hand so that cylinder #1 is at TDC compression and then re-check the timing
marks on the cam pulley to make sure they align. Check cam timing by
lining up the marks, not by moving them moving them one way or the other on
the notches. If they are off, you will have to re-adjust.
After you have verified that cam timing is correct, check base (not "basic")
ignition timing. The emissions sticker under the hood should have the
proper timing specification, i.e., X degrees BTDC at Y RPM.
Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.
Connect a tachometer to the tachometer test lead on the distributor.
Short terminals TE1 and E1 in the data link connector (DLC) under the hood
next to the brake master cylinder.
Check timing and adjust the distributor as necessary.
Keep in mind that if the engine idle speed is not correct, ignition timing
cannot be checked properly.
This page at Autozone's web site has basic instructions for checking
ignition timing:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/b8/74/0900823d8013...4/repai
Good luck!
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)