85 VW gas hydrolock symptoms.

Have you removed the injectors to review spray pattern and residual
drip test? Procedure is in your Bentley repair manual or your Bosch
Fuel Injection by Probst book. Good investment in either but the
Bentley covers the whole car.

If it sounds resistant to turn over you need to look at the starter,
battery and cables. The sputter after it starts is probably leaky
injectors. There is no way you could hydro lock unless your fuel pumps
kept running after you turned off the car and the injectors were
leaking. The amount of residual pressure and fuel is pretty nil.
Enough to cause sputter but not enough to hydro lock. If it was
leaking that bad your oil level would be rising as the crankcase filss
with fuel.

I have had starting problems fixed by cleaning the control pressure
regulator, or replacing it. The screens in the CPR on my one cars
always had crud in it. The joy of buying a used car with no hood or
gas cap. But the CPR does not get replaced until the injectors have
been confirmed to have a good spray pattern and no drips. You could
just remove the injectors after testing, toss them in an ultrasonic
cleaner for an hour to see if the pattern and drip improve. A no cost
test if you already have an ultrasonic cleaner.

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 17:20:14 -0700 (PDT), PatAL7L
wrote:

>I've posted about this 85 with starting problems before, and I'm still
>trying stuff to get it to act like it did when I first bought it (tuen
>the key and start). It's still not starting right. I'm wondering if
>there's a way for gas to continue flowing into the engine after the
>car is shut down?
>
>Reason I ask, is that every once in a while, when I go to start the
>car after it's sat overnight, it acts like it's hydrolocked. The
>starter sounds normal, but the engine seems to resist turning for a
>bit, and then cranks over. When it does start, I have to rev it up,
>like clearing it from being flooded.
>
>Like I've said before, I've put new o-rings on the injectors, replaced
>the cold-start timer, checked out both fuel pumps, replaced the fuel
>accumulator and changed out the fuel filter.
>
>Could this be a fuel distributor problem?
>
>TIA,
>
>Pat
 >> Stay informed about: 85 VW gas hydrolock symptoms. 

Start running premium. I'm not kidding. Sometimes we forget that the
owner's manual calls for 89 octane gas (plus).
 >> Stay informed about: 85 VW gas hydrolock symptoms. 

I'm curious. How do you check the spray pattern and drip test without a
bench tester????
I just bought rebuilt injectors from Rock Auto at a VERY reasonable price
and they've been fine for 40K miles. I have a 97 jetta 2.0. There is no
way to clean the FPR on it or even see a screen. Things must of really
changed from 85 to 97. Sounds like for the worst.


"Jim Behning" wrote in message

> Have you removed the injectors to review spray pattern and residual
> drip test? Procedure is in your Bentley repair manual or your Bosch
> Fuel Injection by Probst book. Good investment in either but the
> Bentley covers the whole car.
>
> If it sounds resistant to turn over you need to look at the starter,
> battery and cables. The sputter after it starts is probably leaky
> injectors. There is no way you could hydro lock unless your fuel pumps
> kept running after you turned off the car and the injectors were
> leaking. The amount of residual pressure and fuel is pretty nil.
> Enough to cause sputter but not enough to hydro lock. If it was
> leaking that bad your oil level would be rising as the crankcase filss
> with fuel.
>
> I have had starting problems fixed by cleaning the control pressure
> regulator, or replacing it. The screens in the CPR on my one cars
> always had crud in it. The joy of buying a used car with no hood or
> gas cap. But the CPR does not get replaced until the injectors have
> been confirmed to have a good spray pattern and no drips. You could
> just remove the injectors after testing, toss them in an ultrasonic
> cleaner for an hour to see if the pattern and drip improve. A no cost
> test if you already have an ultrasonic cleaner.
>
> On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 17:20:14 -0700 (PDT), PatAL7L
> wrote:
>
>>I've posted about this 85 with starting problems before, and I'm still
>>trying stuff to get it to act like it did when I first bought it (tuen
>>the key and start). It's still not starting right. I'm wondering if
>>there's a way for gas to continue flowing into the engine after the
>>car is shut down?
>>
>>Reason I ask, is that every once in a while, when I go to start the
>>car after it's sat overnight, it acts like it's hydrolocked. The
>>starter sounds normal, but the engine seems to resist turning for a
>>bit, and then cranks over. When it does start, I have to rev it up,
>>like clearing it from being flooded.
>>
>>Like I've said before, I've put new o-rings on the injectors, replaced
>>the cold-start timer, checked out both fuel pumps, replaced the fuel
>>accumulator and changed out the fuel filter.
>>
>>Could this be a fuel distributor problem?
>>
>>TIA,
>>
>>Pat
 >> Stay informed about: 85 VW gas hydrolock symptoms. 

nah your '97 2.0 FI system is good!
Definitely different than the '85 FI system though.

If it ain't broke.....don't fix it! lol
Use some FI cleaner like SeaFoam once in awhile and buy good gas from a good
gas station.
Enjoy!

"631grant" wrote in message

> I'm curious. How do you check the spray pattern and drip test without a
> bench tester????
> I just bought rebuilt injectors from Rock Auto at a VERY reasonable price
> and they've been fine for 40K miles. I have a 97 jetta 2.0. There is no
> way to clean the FPR on it or even see a screen. Things must of really
> changed from 85 to 97. Sounds like for the worst.
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: 85 VW gas hydrolock symptoms. 

85 is CIS. You turn on the fuel pump after you inserted each injector
in it's own bottle. Lift up the air flow sensor plate. Injectors start
to sing. Lift it up some more and look at pattern. Measure flow
injector to injector by spraying about 4 oz in relatively small
bottles. Release air flow sensor. Turn off fuel pump. dry injectors
and look for drips. Much easier to do basic testing on CIS.

My Toyota is 21 years old. I have tossed the injectors in a ultrasonic
cleaner. Other than that I have done nothing to the injection system
but adjust the throttle plate sensor, replace the air flow sensor and
change the fuel filter about 7 times less than I should. CIS required
a bit more love but that could be because the second Rabbit was
grossly neglected before I bought it.

There are a few injector cleaning and bench testing places on the web.
My friend sent some from his Toyota after the dealer replaced all of
his. $800 wasted. The injectors tested fine and he won his dispute
with the credit card company/dealer.

On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 08:50:24 -0400, "631grant"
wrote:

>I'm curious. How do you check the spray pattern and drip test without a
>bench tester????
>I just bought rebuilt injectors from Rock Auto at a VERY reasonable price
>and they've been fine for 40K miles. I have a 97 jetta 2.0. There is no
>way to clean the FPR on it or even see a screen. Things must of really
>changed from 85 to 97. Sounds like for the worst.
>
>
>"Jim Behning" wrote in message
>
>> Have you removed the injectors to review spray pattern and residual
>> drip test? Procedure is in your Bentley repair manual or your Bosch
>> Fuel Injection by Probst book. Good investment in either but the
>> Bentley covers the whole car.
>>
>> If it sounds resistant to turn over you need to look at the starter,
>> battery and cables. The sputter after it starts is probably leaky
>> injectors. There is no way you could hydro lock unless your fuel pumps
>> kept running after you turned off the car and the injectors were
>> leaking. The amount of residual pressure and fuel is pretty nil.
>> Enough to cause sputter but not enough to hydro lock. If it was
>> leaking that bad your oil level would be rising as the crankcase filss
>> with fuel.
>>
>> I have had starting problems fixed by cleaning the control pressure
>> regulator, or replacing it. The screens in the CPR on my one cars
>> always had crud in it. The joy of buying a used car with no hood or
>> gas cap. But the CPR does not get replaced until the injectors have
>> been confirmed to have a good spray pattern and no drips. You could
>> just remove the injectors after testing, toss them in an ultrasonic
>> cleaner for an hour to see if the pattern and drip improve. A no cost
>> test if you already have an ultrasonic cleaner.
>>
>> On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 17:20:14 -0700 (PDT), PatAL7L
>> wrote:
>>
>>>I've posted about this 85 with starting problems before, and I'm still
>>>trying stuff to get it to act like it did when I first bought it (tuen
>>>the key and start). It's still not starting right. I'm wondering if
>>>there's a way for gas to continue flowing into the engine after the
>>>car is shut down?
>>>
>>>Reason I ask, is that every once in a while, when I go to start the
>>>car after it's sat overnight, it acts like it's hydrolocked. The
>>>starter sounds normal, but the engine seems to resist turning for a
>>>bit, and then cranks over. When it does start, I have to rev it up,
>>>like clearing it from being flooded.
>>>
>>>Like I've said before, I've put new o-rings on the injectors, replaced
>>>the cold-start timer, checked out both fuel pumps, replaced the fuel
>>>accumulator and changed out the fuel filter.
>>>
>>>Could this be a fuel distributor problem?
>>>
>>>TIA,
>>>
>>>Pat
>
 >> Stay informed about: 85 VW gas hydrolock symptoms.