Michael, test for fault codes first. Key on, off, on and read out the
blinks. Tell us your code readout in a post and we will feedback your
trouble area where you should look.
Sometimes, though, intermittents don't register a fault code in the RAM
chip, so you need to resort to low technology:
You might have an intermittent with the primary power relay in the power
module. Bypass all the electronics with a jumper from Batt + to Coil +.
This will power your fuel pump and ignition independently of the power
module protection system. If the car still is intermittent, run a second
jumper from Coil + to Pump + right at the fuel tank. Also it helps if you
can hook up a fuel pump gauge to the shraeder valve on the fuel manifold.
You should get about 55psi at all times. If it dips, its your fuel pump.
If that checks out, it helps to dynamically look at the ignition system
with a scope, just like we did back in '62 with a Sun Motor Tester on
wheels. I once saw an intermittent in the Hall Effect tripe wire lead and
that fault never even showed up as a computer detected fault.
Intermittents are a real bitch, aren't they?
Don't forget mechanical problems can cause intermittents. Mechanicals like
sticky valves, low compression, etc. But mechanical problems are not
likely to flash the engine check light. Your problem is probably
electrical and blame it on the two hundred wires and 100 pin connectors
that go every which way. Especially problematic are connectors in close
proximity to the battery. Battery electrolyte is a killer of anything
electrical; Chrysler knows this so they recommend grease impaction in the
connectors. What a joke. Can you imagine what would happen to all those
electrics if ever you steam-cleaned your engine? Your car would be
immobilized FOREVER!.
Next time buy Russian if Ladas or Moskoviches are sold in your Country.
They don't have all those wires to go wrong. In fact, over there in Mother
Russia, steam-cleaning their motors is a national pastime.
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