On Mar 10, 5:58 pm, Tegger wrote:
> ExtremeValue wrote in
> e6ed4f84c....TakeThisOut@d4g2000prg.googlegroups.com:
>
>
>
> > On Mar 6, 8:32 pm, Tegger wrote:
> >> ExtremeValue wrote in
> >> 17f0082d7....TakeThisOut@n75g2000hsh.googlegroups.com:
>
> >> > P0420: Catalytic converter efficiency low on Bank 1.
>
> >> > So, the code was reset two days ago and it re-appears today. Thanks.
> >> > Last time, as I have mentioned, the mechanic said I have to replace
> >> > the catalytic converter. Any thought on this?
>
> >> > Thanks
>
> >> May simply be poor connections at the igniter. Believe it or not.
>
> >> Check that before replacing the cat.
>
> > Ignition connectors are reconnected and tightned as per my request.
> > The code was reset and it came back again in 2-3 hours after the car
> > was driven for sometime to make the engine warm. The mechanic said he
> > checked both O2 sensors and the second one (after the Converter) shows
> > fluctuation on the readinds meaning that the cat converter is not
> > functioning efficiently. Ideally the the readings from the second O2
> > sensor should stabilized after sometime. (this is what he said).
>
> > Thanks for all the comments.
>
> Looks like your cat is in fact no longer good. Replace it. Happens all the
> time.
>
> With legislated emissions limits at incredibly low levels, cats these days
> are operating close to their limits. A cat that would have been deemed in
> fine shape in 1990 is considered junk now.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/
Original problem: Check Engine Light came on
Secondary problem: Engine was vibrating when put on drive but resting.
Problem might have been resolved!!
I think I should thank Tegger for his key comment that helped me
solving the Check Engine light problem. Tegger mentioned that it is
related to ignition and since I noticed this problem after replacing
the distributor caps and the wires, there was a high probability that
it is related to ignition.
I tried to convince my mechanic saying about the this group and also
mentioned that one experienced guy (Tegger!) suggested to check all
the ignition connections. In the mean time, I noticed another problem
which, to my mechanic, looked like a "misfire" (I dont know what it
is). He then spent about an hour on my car after connecting the engine
to his "Scope" and tested rigorously but did NOT find any proof of
misfire.
He then put a new set of distributor cap and wires and again tested
for about half an hour. By this time he reset the Check Engine Light.
Now that I am driving it without any trouble and the light did not
came on again! Seems like the problem is solved!!!!
Thanks to Tegger for his comment that lead to the solution. Thanks
are due to my mechanic (who spent about 3 hours on my car in total
without charging me a single dollar). And he is the one who I was able
to talk to regarding my thoughts (which obviously came from this
group) and he gladly considered my opinions. This is kind of unusual
for a person with 30 years of experience! Seems like learning has no
limit.
I put all this information here so that others might get benefited.
>> Stay informed about: 1996 Civic Check Engine Light 
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