Lexus Lover wrote in
> Thanks Tegger & Curly for your help.
>
> I successfully replaced the pulley and put new belts on --
Excellent!
>
> Darren
> Ps. I am swapping-out the CV joints next - any schematics for that ???
That's about as simple as it gets, so no schematics needed.
You need to drain the tranny if you're removing the shaft that goes
directly into the tranny (passenger side only if you've got a center
shaft).
Before you buzz the damper fork bolts loose, measure the diameter of the
inner joints. They may be small enough to withdraw from the damper fork
without unbolting the lower control arm.
Also make sure you gave a GOOD balljoint tool. You'll NEED it.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html
You'll also need a DeWalt electric impact wrench to get the axle nut
loose, and you really should have a new axle nut to replace the old
staked one.
The DeWalt can be rented for about $25 per day from an industrial supply
place.
When you install the new driveshafts, put a bit of oil on the part of
the joint that meets the oil seal in the tranny, and make certain you
don't fold or tear the seal in the tranny.
The inner joints can be accidentally pulled apart, so make sure you
don't allow that to happen.
Oh, and one final thing: If the inner joint boots are buckled slightly
and not smoothly corrugated, this buckling will cause very quick failure
of the boots. Release the outer band and let some air inside to relieve
the vacuum that's causing the buckling. You'll need a new pair of bands
and a band-tightening tool.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> Stay informed about: 1993 Legend A/C Pulley question