1991 Integra gives code 15

"TeGGeR®" wrote in


> bachisanerd wrote in
>
>
>> My 1991 Acura Integra LS (1800cc) will run for a while (usually just
>> enough to get me out of walking distance of the house), but when it
>> heats up enough, the ignition system shuts down. No spark, nothing.
>> After cooling for a little while, it will run a little longer untill
>> it heats up, then dies again. I found the ECU and it flashes a code
>> 15, which translates to "Ignition Output signal".
>>
>> I just replaced the rotor (after the problems started; it was a cheap
>> place to start.), and it didn’t solve anything. When it is running,
>> it seems to run just fine, full power, good response, until it just
>> stops without warning. Does anybody have any ideas?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>
>
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badigniter
>
>



I should also say that the usual failure mode if the igniter is total loss
of ability to start the car. It will just die then refuse to start at all.
Your symptoms do not jibe with those.

So go here too:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badcoil

There's also the condenser on the distributor body. It can go bad,
resulting in a weak spark. Just above Item 12 in this pic:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/igniter-operation/8.jpg

Do not forget to check for corroded and damaged wiring, which can cause
running problems as well.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
 >> Stay informed about: 1991 Integra gives code 15 

"TeGGeR®" wrote:
> bachisanerd wrote in
>
>
> > My 1991 Acura Integra LS (1800cc) will run for a while
> (usually just
> > enough to get me out of walking distance of the house), but
> when it
> > heats up enough, the ignition system shuts down. No spark,
> nothing.
> > After cooling for a little while, it will run a little
> longer untill
> > it heats up, then dies again. I found the ECU and it
> flashes a code
> > 15, which translates to "Ignition Output signal".
> >
> > I just replaced the rotor (after the problems started; it
> was a cheap
> > place to start.), and it didn’t solve anything. When it is
> running,
> > it seems to run just fine, full power, good response, until
> it just
> > stops without warning. Does anybody have any ideas?
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
>
>
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/startproblems.html#badigniter
>
>
> --
> TeGGeR®
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Thanks a bunch, replacing the Igniter module solved the problem.

I’ll explain some of the other details that led up to the total
breakdown of the part that make more sense now that I know what is
going on just in case it could help some other frusterated soul:

A few weeks before the car would actaully die, I would be on the
freeway and the car would cough just slightly and the Tach would fall
to 0 and then immediately recover. This would happen every week or
so, and I thought it was a computer glitch or something like that.
When the car started dying, at very first it could be revived by
clicking the key off then on again, without even stopping the car. It
got worse though, and the car would have to sit idle for a while
before it would run again. I needed the car so I kept driving it as
much as I dared, but it would go less and less far every time. I
finally had to park it in my dad’s driveway untill I could get it
fixed.

I was afraid that it was going to cost me a bunch of money to fix
because it was an electrical problem, and it appeared to be far beyond
the scope of what I was used to figuring out on my ’75 Gremlin. I was
afraid that the car’s onboard computer would have to be replaced and I
started looking in the classifieds for a replacement car.

However, thanks to this spiffy board and about $70, I’m back in
business. The links were helpfull. One thing to add: The
instructions that explain how to replace the igniter unit have the
distributor off of the car. I worked at this for a bit and couldn’t
figre how to get it off. However, with the 3 bolts that hold the
distributor body to the head of the engine removed, I found that I
could move the thing around enough to get some tools in there so I was
able to replace the Igniter. IMPORTANT NOTE: If you start twisting
the distributor around, you’ll loose your timing, like in the old
Gremlin days where you would rotate the cap. Make sure you mark the
distributor and engine so that when you tighten it all together again
the timing works right. (I do things by figuring them out. If this
procedure is not a good idea, would somebody who knows better please
point it out for the sake of somebody who might see my bad advice in
the future?)

Thanks again, and long live usenet!

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 >> Stay informed about: 1991 Integra gives code 15 

bachisanerd wrote in



>
> Thanks a bunch, replacing the Igniter module solved the problem.
>
> I’ll explain some of the other details that led up to the total
> breakdown of the part that make more sense now that I know what is
> going on just in case it could help some other frusterated soul:
>
> A few weeks before the car would actaully die, I would be on the
> freeway and the car would cough just slightly and the Tach would fall
> to 0 and then immediately recover.



I wish you'd given these details at the beginning. That is *the* classic
symptom of a failing igniter.

The tach gets its signal from the igniter. If the igniter fails, even
momentarily, the tach will also lose its signal.



> This would happen every week or
> so, and I thought it was a computer glitch or something like that.
> When the car started dying, at very first it could be revived by
> clicking the key off then on again, without even stopping the car. It
> got worse though, and the car would have to sit idle for a while
> before it would run again. I needed the car so I kept driving it as
> much as I dared, but it would go less and less far every time. I
> finally had to park it in my dad’s driveway untill I could get it
> fixed.
>
> I was afraid that it was going to cost me a bunch of money to fix
> because it was an electrical problem, and it appeared to be far beyond
> the scope of what I was used to figuring out on my ’75 Gremlin. I was
> afraid that the car’s onboard computer would have to be replaced


Honda computers do NOT go bad unless they've suffered some sort of trauma,
like a flood or impact, or have wiring damage. They are extraordinarily
durable.


> and I
> started looking in the classifieds for a replacement car.
>
> However, thanks to this spiffy board and about $70, I’m back in
> business. The links were helpfull. One thing to add: The
> instructions that explain how to replace the igniter unit have the
> distributor off of the car. I worked at this for a bit and couldn’t
> figre how to get it off.



I could add distributor removal to the FAQ. If somebody wants to submit
pics, that would be nice.



However, with the 3 bolts that hold the
> distributor body to the head of the engine removed, I found that I
> could move the thing around enough to get some tools in there so I was
> able to replace the Igniter. IMPORTANT NOTE: If you start twisting
> the distributor around, you’ll loose your timing, like in the old
> Gremlin days where you would rotate the cap. Make sure you mark the
> distributor and engine so that when you tighten it all together again
> the timing works right. (I do things by figuring them out. If this
> procedure is not a good idea, would somebody who knows better please
> point it out for the sake of somebody who might see my bad advice in
> the future?)


You should get a cheap timing light and reset the timing properly. You've
only approximated the correct timing, and it doesn't take much to put it
out of spec.


>
> Thanks again, and long live usenet!
>

For sure. Glad you fixed it.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
 >> Stay informed about: 1991 Integra gives code 15