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External
Since: May 18, 2008
Posts: 22
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(Msg. 1) Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 7:04 pm
Post subject: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering
Archived from groups: alt>autos>ford (more info?)
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I have a 1987 E-250 with a 302, auto trans and power steering. I bought it
used 15 years ago with 58,000 miles on it. It's at about 120,000 now. I
don't remember that the steering was all that bad back then but some time
later it was, and I replaced the steering box, tie rod ends and drag link.
It didn't help much. I had a lifetime warranty on the box and just got
another one. I put it on, as well as a new drag link. When replacing I
discovered that the flex coupler had a tear at two of the holes on the
outside. I thought that I had found the problem and replaced that too.
Anywhoo, it's still sloppy, better, but still a pain to drive. I have had
the front end aligned three or four times and the front tires still wear
badly. The outside edges of them end up sort of scalloped. After Googling
around I see that this is a common problem. I've seen advice about replacing
the wheel bearings, king pins and radius arm bushings. Sounds like a lot
of work.
What I'm wondering about is, does it matter if the gear box is in the exact
middle position when the wheels are straight? The drag link that I have is a
one piece deal. One end is connected to the Pitman arm and the other is
connected to the passenger wheel. The front end alignment is done by
adjusting the rod from the drag link to the driver's wheel. The box gives
you two full turns of the wheel, and a tad more, in either direction. With
the wheels straight, it's only about two turns ... no tad added. Therefore,
it isn't in the exact middle while driving straight. I noticed that they
sell a drag link that has a coupler and a tie rod end on it for the
passenger side. That would allow you to center the box and Pitman arm and
have the wheels straight. Is it of any importance, as far as slop in the
steering, that the box is not in the exact mid point while driving straight?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Forrest |
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External
Since: Mar 02, 2007
Posts: 148
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(Msg. 2) Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 11:08 pm
Post subject: Re: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Imported from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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External
Since: May 18, 2008
Posts: 22
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(Msg. 3) Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 11:08 pm
Post subject: Re: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"lugnut" wrote in message
> On Thu, 30 Oct 2008 19:04:46 -0800, "Forrest"
>
> wrote:
>
>>I have a 1987 E-250 with a 302, auto trans and power steering. I bought it
>>used 15 years ago with 58,000 miles on it. It's at about 120,000 now. I
>>don't remember that the steering was all that bad back then but some time
>>later it was, and I replaced the steering box, tie rod ends and drag link.
>>It didn't help much. I had a lifetime warranty on the box and just got
>>another one. I put it on, as well as a new drag link. When replacing I
>>discovered that the flex coupler had a tear at two of the holes on the
>>outside. I thought that I had found the problem and replaced that too.
>>Anywhoo, it's still sloppy, better, but still a pain to drive. I have had
>>the front end aligned three or four times and the front tires still wear
>>badly. The outside edges of them end up sort of scalloped. After Googling
>>around I see that this is a common problem. I've seen advice about
>>replacing
>>the wheel bearings, king pins and radius arm bushings. Sounds like a
>>lot
>>of work.
>>
>> What I'm wondering about is, does it matter if the gear box is in the
>> exact
>>middle position when the wheels are straight? The drag link that I have is
>>a
>>one piece deal. One end is connected to the Pitman arm and the other is
>>connected to the passenger wheel. The front end alignment is done by
>>adjusting the rod from the drag link to the driver's wheel. The box gives
>>you two full turns of the wheel, and a tad more, in either direction. With
>>the wheels straight, it's only about two turns ... no tad added.
>>Therefore,
>>it isn't in the exact middle while driving straight. I noticed that they
>>sell a drag link that has a coupler and a tie rod end on it for the
>>passenger side. That would allow you to center the box and Pitman arm and
>>have the wheels straight. Is it of any importance, as far as slop in the
>>steering, that the box is not in the exact mid point while driving
>>straight?
>>
>>Thanks in advance for any advice.
>>Forrest
>>
>
>
> Centering of the steering box is important. There is a prescribed way to
> center
> it which should be easy for any competent front end tech. It should be
> centered
> and the steering wheel straight when properly aligned. One of the biggest
> problems for sloppy steering on Ford light trucks are the strut bushings.
> I
> have routinely replaced the OEM bushing with the polyurathane ones for a
> noticeable improvement even at low mileage. The one on the right side ir
> subjected to the rough part of the road and the heat of the converter
> which
> leads to relatively rapid detreioration. They are not terribly hard to
> replace
> if you have a good jack, jack stands, pry bars, and a couple of heavy
> wrenches.
> Air tools are a blessing on any chassis work.
>
> Lugnut
This year van, uses shocks and coil springs in the front. No struts. But
the importance of the gear box being centered is what I'm wondering about.
Before I installed it, I turned it back and fourth and could feel the
difference in the resistance, when at center and slightly off. The one
piece, drag link, doesn't let it center. It's new and can probably be
returned and exchanged for the adjustable one. You said that it does matter
.... how? I can see that it probably would, but wondering what the
mechanical situation is with it. >> Stay informed about: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering |
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External
Since: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 69
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(Msg. 4) Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 3:25 am
Post subject: Re: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"Forrest" wrote
> >>Anywhoo, it's still sloppy, better, but still a pain to drive. I have had
> >>the front end aligned three or four times and the front tires still wear
> >>badly. The outside edges of them end up sort of scalloped.
> >> After Googling around I see that this is a common problem. I've seen
> >> advice about replacing the wheel bearings, king pins and radius arm
> >> bushings. Sounds like a lot of work.
> > One of the biggest problems for sloppy steering on Ford light trucks are
> > the strut bushings. I have routinely replaced the OEM bushing with the
> > polyurathane ones for a noticeable improvement even at low mileage.
> This year van, uses shocks and coil springs in the front. No struts.
I think he's talking about the Radius Arms...
http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/...ges//09
The poor, abused little bushings live at the pointy end of the arm. >> Stay informed about: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering |
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External
Since: Mar 04, 2004
Posts: 213
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(Msg. 5) Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 5:26 am
Post subject: Re: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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check the frame where the steering box mounts. it is a common occurance for
the frame to crack at the box mounts.
"Forrest" wrote in message
>I have a 1987 E-250 with a 302, auto trans and power steering. I bought it
>used 15 years ago with 58,000 miles on it. It's at about 120,000 now. I
>don't remember that the steering was all that bad back then but some time
>later it was, and I replaced the steering box, tie rod ends and drag link.
>It didn't help much. I had a lifetime warranty on the box and just got
>another one. I put it on, as well as a new drag link. When replacing I
>discovered that the flex coupler had a tear at two of the holes on the
>outside. I thought that I had found the problem and replaced that too.
>Anywhoo, it's still sloppy, better, but still a pain to drive. I have had
>the front end aligned three or four times and the front tires still wear
>badly. The outside edges of them end up sort of scalloped. After Googling
>around I see that this is a common problem. I've seen advice about
>replacing the wheel bearings, king pins and radius arm bushings. Sounds
>like a lot of work.
>
> What I'm wondering about is, does it matter if the gear box is in the
> exact middle position when the wheels are straight? The drag link that I
> have is a one piece deal. One end is connected to the Pitman arm and the
> other is connected to the passenger wheel. The front end alignment is done
> by adjusting the rod from the drag link to the driver's wheel. The box
> gives you two full turns of the wheel, and a tad more, in either
> direction. With the wheels straight, it's only about two turns ... no tad
> added. Therefore, it isn't in the exact middle while driving straight. I
> noticed that they sell a drag link that has a coupler and a tie rod end on
> it for the passenger side. That would allow you to center the box and
> Pitman arm and have the wheels straight. Is it of any importance, as far
> as slop in the steering, that the box is not in the exact mid point while
> driving straight?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
> Forrest
> >> Stay informed about: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering |
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External
Since: Mar 02, 2007
Posts: 148
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(Msg. 6) Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 8:46 am
Post subject: Re: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Imported from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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External
Since: May 18, 2008
Posts: 22
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(Msg. 7) Posted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 12:35 pm
Post subject: Re: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"lugnut" wrote in message
> On Fri, 31 Oct 2008 06:44:20 GMT, "MasterBlaster"
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Forrest" wrote
>>
>>> >>Anywhoo, it's still sloppy, better, but still a pain to drive. I have
>>> >>had
>>> >>the front end aligned three or four times and the front tires still
>>> >>wear
>>> >>badly. The outside edges of them end up sort of scalloped.
>>
>>> >> After Googling around I see that this is a common problem. I've seen
>>> >> advice about replacing the wheel bearings, king pins and radius arm
>>> >> bushings. Sounds like a lot of work.
>>
>>> > One of the biggest problems for sloppy steering on Ford light trucks
>>> > are
>>> > the strut bushings. I have routinely replaced the OEM bushing with
>>> > the
>>> > polyurathane ones for a noticeable improvement even at low mileage.
>>
>>> This year van, uses shocks and coil springs in the front. No struts.
>>
>>I think he's talking about the Radius Arms...
>>
>>http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images//0900c152/80/07/c3/84//large/0900c1528007c384.gif
>>
>>The poor, abused little bushings live at the pointy end of the arm.
>>
>
>
> Thanks. Radius arm is the term I could not come up with at the time. He
> will
> have them with his twin I-beam front suspension. I have seen few at that
> mileage and age that are not weak, worn, cooked or missing.
>
> Lugnut
Sounds good, I'll change them. I took a look under there yesterday and see
that the driver's side is a piece of cake. Three bolts holding the rear
bracket. The other side is the same, except that the cat is welded next to
where the bolts will have to be extracted. Now what? Cut the cat out and
have it re-welded? I saw a discussion about changing them on an F-150, I
think it was. I guess they didn't have bolts but rivets instead. Some people
were cutting them off and replacing them with bolts. One guy said that he
removed the large nut on the arm and somehow used a comealong to pull the
axle forward enough to get it out. Anybody ever do that?
Quote from other person's post :
"You guys are nuts!!! All you have to do is unbolt the nut off the back of
the radius arm, use a comealong and attach one end to the front framerail
and the other to the hole in the radius arm and pull the whole arm out of
the bracket. after the arm is out of the mount, put on the new bushings. use
plenty of lube on the bushings. always use poly bushings. they may squeak a
little but they don't wear out. then push on the end of the arm with your
feet while a friend slowly releases the comealong. put the rear bushing on
the back of the arm and tighten the nut down with a big breaker bar." >> Stay informed about: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering |
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External
Since: Mar 02, 2007
Posts: 148
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(Msg. 8) Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 12:32 am
Post subject: Re: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Imported from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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External
Since: May 18, 2008
Posts: 22
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(Msg. 9) Posted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 12:55 pm
Post subject: Re: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"lugnut" wrote in message
> On Sat, 1 Nov 2008 12:35:32 -0800, "Forrest"
>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"lugnut" wrote in message
>>
>>> On Fri, 31 Oct 2008 06:44:20 GMT, "MasterBlaster"
>>>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>"Forrest" wrote
>>>>
>>>>> >>Anywhoo, it's still sloppy, better, but still a pain to drive. I
>>>>> >>have
>>>>> >>had
>>>>> >>the front end aligned three or four times and the front tires still
>>>>> >>wear
>>>>> >>badly. The outside edges of them end up sort of scalloped.
>>>>
>>>>> >> After Googling around I see that this is a common problem. I've
>>>>> >> seen
>>>>> >> advice about replacing the wheel bearings, king pins and radius arm
>>>>> >> bushings. Sounds like a lot of work.
>>>>
>>>>> > One of the biggest problems for sloppy steering on Ford light trucks
>>>>> > are
>>>>> > the strut bushings. I have routinely replaced the OEM bushing with
>>>>> > the
>>>>> > polyurathane ones for a noticeable improvement even at low mileage.
>>>>
>>>>> This year van, uses shocks and coil springs in the front. No struts.
>>>>
>>>>I think he's talking about the Radius Arms...
>>>>
>>>>http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images//0900c152/80/07/c3/84//large/0900c1528007c384.gif
>>>>
>>>>The poor, abused little bushings live at the pointy end of the arm.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks. Radius arm is the term I could not come up with at the time.
>>> He
>>> will
>>> have them with his twin I-beam front suspension. I have seen few at
>>> that
>>> mileage and age that are not weak, worn, cooked or missing.
>>>
>>> Lugnut
>>
>>Sounds good, I'll change them. I took a look under there yesterday and see
>>that the driver's side is a piece of cake. Three bolts holding the rear
>>bracket. The other side is the same, except that the cat is welded next to
>>where the bolts will have to be extracted. Now what? Cut the cat out and
>>have it re-welded? I saw a discussion about changing them on an F-150, I
>>think it was. I guess they didn't have bolts but rivets instead. Some
>>people
>>were cutting them off and replacing them with bolts. One guy said that he
>>removed the large nut on the arm and somehow used a comealong to pull the
>>axle forward enough to get it out. Anybody ever do that?
>>
>>Quote from other person's post :
>>"You guys are nuts!!! All you have to do is unbolt the nut off the back of
>>the radius arm, use a comealong and attach one end to the front framerail
>>and the other to the hole in the radius arm and pull the whole arm out of
>>the bracket. after the arm is out of the mount, put on the new bushings.
>>use
>>plenty of lube on the bushings. always use poly bushings. they may squeak
>>a
>>little but they don't wear out. then push on the end of the arm with your
>>feet while a friend slowly releases the comealong. put the rear bushing on
>>the back of the arm and tighten the nut down with a big breaker bar."
>>
>
>
> If you have searched this group, you may have seen a couple of post from
> me.
> The comealong method will usually work. The problem is that I usually
> work
> alone. I get the truck supported on stands and then put the jack under
> the end
> of the axle. Lift enough to unload the shock absorber abd disconnect it.
> Remove the retainer clips from the springs and lower the axle. Loosen the
> bolt
> that attaches the radius arm to the axle and then remove the nut on the
> rear of
> the radiur arm. With the bolt at the front loosened, you can usually pull
> the
> axle forward out of the rear support to replace the front half of the
> bushing by
> hand. Loosening the front bolt allows it to pivot a bit to align with the
> hole
> as you replace it. Once you get to that point, you simply reverse the
> disassemble work. If the axle pivot bushings are hardened, the axle may
> not
> move forward easily. A long pry bar or a comealong will do that job
> easily. If
> you have a 1/2" impact and a good air supply, the work goes fairly
> quickly.
>
> Lugnut
I've been looking at a few diagrams and have stuck my head under there.
Those huge springs are intimidating. Just got through changing the struts on
my Accord and almost lost a finger to a spring. I guess you're saying that
the clips on the top, outside of them, are removed and the spring then
uncompresses and separates from the vehicle up top, as you lower the axle
..... and all stays connected at the base of the spring ? Where do you
usually put the jack stands up front? >> Stay informed about: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering |
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External
Since: Mar 02, 2007
Posts: 148
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(Msg. 10) Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 8:27 am
Post subject: Re: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Imported from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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External
Since: Oct 30, 2008
Posts: 35
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(Msg. 11) Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:54 pm
Post subject: Re: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 12:55:55 -0800, "Forrest"
wrote:
>
>"lugnut" wrote in message
>
>> On Sat, 1 Nov 2008 12:35:32 -0800, "Forrest"
>>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>"lugnut" wrote in message
>>>
>>>> On Fri, 31 Oct 2008 06:44:20 GMT, "MasterBlaster"
>>>>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>"Forrest" wrote
>>>>>
>>>>>> >>Anywhoo, it's still sloppy, better, but still a pain to drive. I
>>>>>> >>have
>>>>>> >>had
>>>>>> >>the front end aligned three or four times and the front tires still
>>>>>> >>wear
>>>>>> >>badly. The outside edges of them end up sort of scalloped.
>>>>>
>>>>>> >> After Googling around I see that this is a common problem. I've
>>>>>> >> seen
>>>>>> >> advice about replacing the wheel bearings, king pins and radius arm
>>>>>> >> bushings. Sounds like a lot of work.
>>>>>
>>>>>> > One of the biggest problems for sloppy steering on Ford light trucks
>>>>>> > are
>>>>>> > the strut bushings. I have routinely replaced the OEM bushing with
>>>>>> > the
>>>>>> > polyurathane ones for a noticeable improvement even at low mileage.
>>>>>
>>>>>> This year van, uses shocks and coil springs in the front. No struts.
>>>>>
>>>>>I think he's talking about the Radius Arms...
>>>>>
>>>>>http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images//0900c152/80/07/c3/84//large/0900c1528007c384.gif
>>>>>
>>>>>The poor, abused little bushings live at the pointy end of the arm.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks. Radius arm is the term I could not come up with at the time.
>>>> He
>>>> will
>>>> have them with his twin I-beam front suspension. I have seen few at
>>>> that
>>>> mileage and age that are not weak, worn, cooked or missing.
>>>>
>>>> Lugnut
>>>
>>>Sounds good, I'll change them. I took a look under there yesterday and see
>>>that the driver's side is a piece of cake. Three bolts holding the rear
>>>bracket. The other side is the same, except that the cat is welded next to
>>>where the bolts will have to be extracted. Now what? Cut the cat out and
>>>have it re-welded? I saw a discussion about changing them on an F-150, I
>>>think it was. I guess they didn't have bolts but rivets instead. Some
>>>people
>>>were cutting them off and replacing them with bolts. One guy said that he
>>>removed the large nut on the arm and somehow used a comealong to pull the
>>>axle forward enough to get it out. Anybody ever do that?
>>>
>>>Quote from other person's post :
>>>"You guys are nuts!!! All you have to do is unbolt the nut off the back of
>>>the radius arm, use a comealong and attach one end to the front framerail
>>>and the other to the hole in the radius arm and pull the whole arm out of
>>>the bracket. after the arm is out of the mount, put on the new bushings.
>>>use
>>>plenty of lube on the bushings. always use poly bushings. they may squeak
>>>a
>>>little but they don't wear out. then push on the end of the arm with your
>>>feet while a friend slowly releases the comealong. put the rear bushing on
>>>the back of the arm and tighten the nut down with a big breaker bar."
>>>
>>
>>
>> If you have searched this group, you may have seen a couple of post from
>> me.
>> The comealong method will usually work. The problem is that I usually
>> work
>> alone. I get the truck supported on stands and then put the jack under
>> the end
>> of the axle. Lift enough to unload the shock absorber abd disconnect it.
>> Remove the retainer clips from the springs and lower the axle. Loosen the
>> bolt
>> that attaches the radius arm to the axle and then remove the nut on the
>> rear of
>> the radiur arm. With the bolt at the front loosened, you can usually pull
>> the
>> axle forward out of the rear support to replace the front half of the
>> bushing by
>> hand. Loosening the front bolt allows it to pivot a bit to align with the
>> hole
>> as you replace it. Once you get to that point, you simply reverse the
>> disassemble work. If the axle pivot bushings are hardened, the axle may
>> not
>> move forward easily. A long pry bar or a comealong will do that job
>> easily. If
>> you have a 1/2" impact and a good air supply, the work goes fairly
>> quickly.
>>
>> Lugnut
>
>I've been looking at a few diagrams and have stuck my head under there.
>Those huge springs are intimidating. Just got through changing the struts on
>my Accord and almost lost a finger to a spring. I guess you're saying that
>the clips on the top, outside of them, are removed and the spring then
>uncompresses and separates from the vehicle up top, as you lower the axle
>.... and all stays connected at the base of the spring ? Where do you
>usually put the jack stands up front?
>
Another problem with Ford trucks is the "rubber" tie rod ends and
lonkage ends. Replace with TRW or other aftermarket parts instead of
OEM Ford and the problem is significantly reduced. >> Stay informed about: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering |
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External
Since: May 18, 2008
Posts: 22
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(Msg. 12) Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 9:33 pm
Post subject: Re: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)
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"lugnut" wrote in message
> On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 12:55:55 -0800, "Forrest"
>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"lugnut" wrote in message
>>
>>> On Sat, 1 Nov 2008 12:35:32 -0800, "Forrest"
>>>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>"lugnut" wrote in message
>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, 31 Oct 2008 06:44:20 GMT, "MasterBlaster"
>>>>>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>"Forrest" wrote
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> >>Anywhoo, it's still sloppy, better, but still a pain to drive. I
>>>>>>> >>have
>>>>>>> >>had
>>>>>>> >>the front end aligned three or four times and the front tires
>>>>>>> >>still
>>>>>>> >>wear
>>>>>>> >>badly. The outside edges of them end up sort of scalloped.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> >> After Googling around I see that this is a common problem. I've
>>>>>>> >> seen
>>>>>>> >> advice about replacing the wheel bearings, king pins and radius
>>>>>>> >> arm
>>>>>>> >> bushings. Sounds like a lot of work.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> > One of the biggest problems for sloppy steering on Ford light
>>>>>>> > trucks
>>>>>>> > are
>>>>>>> > the strut bushings. I have routinely replaced the OEM bushing
>>>>>>> > with
>>>>>>> > the
>>>>>>> > polyurathane ones for a noticeable improvement even at low
>>>>>>> > mileage.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> This year van, uses shocks and coil springs in the front. No
>>>>>>> struts.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>I think he's talking about the Radius Arms...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images//0900c152/80/07/c3/84//large/0900c1528007c384.gif
>>>>>>
>>>>>>The poor, abused little bushings live at the pointy end of the arm.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks. Radius arm is the term I could not come up with at the time.
>>>>> He
>>>>> will
>>>>> have them with his twin I-beam front suspension. I have seen few at
>>>>> that
>>>>> mileage and age that are not weak, worn, cooked or missing.
>>>>>
>>>>> Lugnut
>>>>
>>>>Sounds good, I'll change them. I took a look under there yesterday and
>>>>see
>>>>that the driver's side is a piece of cake. Three bolts holding the rear
>>>>bracket. The other side is the same, except that the cat is welded next
>>>>to
>>>>where the bolts will have to be extracted. Now what? Cut the cat out and
>>>>have it re-welded? I saw a discussion about changing them on an F-150, I
>>>>think it was. I guess they didn't have bolts but rivets instead. Some
>>>>people
>>>>were cutting them off and replacing them with bolts. One guy said that
>>>>he
>>>>removed the large nut on the arm and somehow used a comealong to pull
>>>>the
>>>>axle forward enough to get it out. Anybody ever do that?
>>>>
>>>>Quote from other person's post :
>>>>"You guys are nuts!!! All you have to do is unbolt the nut off the back
>>>>of
>>>>the radius arm, use a comealong and attach one end to the front
>>>>framerail
>>>>and the other to the hole in the radius arm and pull the whole arm out
>>>>of
>>>>the bracket. after the arm is out of the mount, put on the new bushings.
>>>>use
>>>>plenty of lube on the bushings. always use poly bushings. they may
>>>>squeak
>>>>a
>>>>little but they don't wear out. then push on the end of the arm with
>>>>your
>>>>feet while a friend slowly releases the comealong. put the rear bushing
>>>>on
>>>>the back of the arm and tighten the nut down with a big breaker bar."
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> If you have searched this group, you may have seen a couple of post from
>>> me.
>>> The comealong method will usually work. The problem is that I usually
>>> work
>>> alone. I get the truck supported on stands and then put the jack under
>>> the end
>>> of the axle. Lift enough to unload the shock absorber abd disconnect
>>> it.
>>> Remove the retainer clips from the springs and lower the axle. Loosen
>>> the
>>> bolt
>>> that attaches the radius arm to the axle and then remove the nut on the
>>> rear of
>>> the radiur arm. With the bolt at the front loosened, you can usually
>>> pull
>>> the
>>> axle forward out of the rear support to replace the front half of the
>>> bushing by
>>> hand. Loosening the front bolt allows it to pivot a bit to align with
>>> the
>>> hole
>>> as you replace it. Once you get to that point, you simply reverse the
>>> disassemble work. If the axle pivot bushings are hardened, the axle may
>>> not
>>> move forward easily. A long pry bar or a comealong will do that job
>>> easily. If
>>> you have a 1/2" impact and a good air supply, the work goes fairly
>>> quickly.
>>>
>>> Lugnut
>>
>>I've been looking at a few diagrams and have stuck my head under there.
>>Those huge springs are intimidating. Just got through changing the struts
>>on
>>my Accord and almost lost a finger to a spring. I guess you're saying that
>>the clips on the top, outside of them, are removed and the spring then
>>uncompresses and separates from the vehicle up top, as you lower the axle
>>.... and all stays connected at the base of the spring ? Where do you
>>usually put the jack stands up front?
>>
>
>
> You need to support the truck with stands under the frame and out of your
> way to
> work on the axles. I usually use the area under the front of the frame or
> behind the radius arm support far enough to allow you to get to the nuts
> from
> the rear. Once that is done, I use a floor jack under the outer end of
> the axle
> to compress the spring enough to unload the shock and disconnect it. If
> you
> need shocks, this is an opportunity to do that. Once the shock is
> disconnected,
> lower the jack allowing the spring to unload. Some people do not remove
> the
> clips to allow the spring to move freely - they use the comealong to pull
> the
> axle forward. I find it just as easy to allow the spring to drop out of
> the
> seat. Reseating is no problem. With the spring free and the large bolt
> that
> attaches the raduis arm to the axle loosened, the axle can usually be
> wrestled
> around to pull it out of the frame brackets by hand without too much
> stress. If
> you decide you need a comalong, don't tie the other end to a tree or post;
> you
> may pull the truck off the stands which could ruin your day. Rig it with
> a
> sheave so that it is only attached to the truck frame. BTW, the springs
> are not
> caged and loaded on your truck they way they are on car struts. As I said
> before, a 1'2" impact, a couple of large sockets and a box wrench to hold
> the
> axle-to-raduis-arm bolt will make this job more time consuming than
> difficult.
> I don't know where you are but, my brother had his replaced at a local
> shop for
> $100 labor at a local shop using his parts as a time filler. You may find
> a
> similar deal making it not worth the time unless you just like doing this
> kind
> of thing. Some shops around here will not install polyurathane bushings
> because
> some of these citified truck owners do not like the occasional squeak and
> road
> feel of the polyurathene. I find the better road feel and stability of
> the
> steering to outweigh any of the complaints I have heard.
>
> Lugnut
Thank you all, very much. I have a few bigger fish to fry right now, and
probably won't be able to get around to doing the job for a few weeks. I
guess it's always a good thing to do your homework and get your ducks in a
row, before starting something. I'm sure I'll have some more questions
before I'm done. Really great suggestions and advice ..... Thanks >> Stay informed about: 1987 E-250 sloppy steering |
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