Since you're already doing the work of pulling the motor and getting it on
a stand, and since you're pulling the pan and timing cover anyway to replace
gaskets, what better opportunity to put in new rod / main bearings, oil
pump, and timing set. Those parts are relatively inexpensive - should go
less than $150 - and if you do it, you'll be sure of the bottom end for
years to come.
If you decide not to go that route, and just replace the seals and gaskets,
the operative word is cleanliness. Before cracking the mains caps, be sure
everything is spotlessly clean, to avoid the chance of any particles getting
trapped between the crank and bearings.
And ditto on the balancer repair sleeve - on an engine of that vintage, its
almost certain that the soft iron snout of the balancer will have a groove
in it. The last two I built, a 77 4bolt main 350, and an 85 4.3 v6 both had
worn balancers.
--
V8Z
Chevy V6 powered '66 Datsun Roadster
http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/
Chevy V8 powered '77 Datsun 280Z
http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/
"Charlie" <cwilliamp DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:skDvg.12807$6w.7575@fed1read11...
> Thanks for the reply.
>
> The engine will be out of the car and seperated from the transmission
> and clutch assembly.
>
> If I loosen the main being journals of the crank to make space for
> replacing the rear seal does that create a large risk of future main
> bearing problems?
>
> Charlie
>
> aarcuda69062 wrote:
> > In article <O6pvg.12791$6w.7721@fed1read11>,
> > Charlie <cwilliamp DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> > <snip> >> Stay informed about: 1966 chevy engine oil leak fix plan