Hober Mallow wrote:
>Hello Everyone,
>
>I've just purchased a brand-new '08 Tacoma 4x4, 2.7 litre engine.
>
>Previously, I owned an '86 Toyota pickup 4x2, 22R engine. Purchased
>new, I maintained it regularly and finally sold it at 240,000 miles to a
>friend. I can't remember if I'd ever had it undercoated. Based on the
>history of my previous Toyata, I can see that I'm liable to be keeping
>this new one for awhile.
>
>I'm looking for opinions: Should I get my new Tacoma undercoated. It
>wasn't even offered at the dealership. The salesman said undercoating
>just isn't needed on my Tacoma. Imagine, a salesman who didn't want to
>sell an add-on.
>
>I live near Seattle and will be moving to central Oregon. I do a lot of
>driving in the mountains and lots of that is on gravel roads, kicking up
>a lot gravel.
>
>So what do you think? Undercoating, or not ??? Thanks in advance.
>
>The Rocket Man
>
>
If you are going to keep your vehicle for a long time, yes. Don't use or
apply any rustproofing that is a polymer based formula, only use a
petroleum based product. Most chain, franchise, and dealers use polymer
based. The polymers will eventually dry and crack only to attract
moisture and in turn, begin the oxidization process (rust). Petroleum
based will not.
I can suggest using one product, Texaco Compound L. This is specially
formulated for rustproofing. Do not consider undercoating as
rustproofing. There is a difference.
I have used this product for many years, rustproofing many vehicles and
implements. It is important to apply the product inside door frames, and
anywhere on the vehicle where the metal is pinched together closely
(hoods and trunk lids) during manufacturing. That is where rust will begin.
I remove the tail lights, inner fender panels, rocker plastic, trunk and
hood trim and insulation, sound deadening materials, battery, and
anything else that can be removed to apply the rustproofing directly to
the metal. Spend the time and take the car apart. It can be applied to
the underside of the vehicle as well, staying clear of exhaust
components and after a few years can be re applied easily if needed, and
if you want to start fresh, it can be steamed off.
If you do this yourself you will be drilling a few access holes. It is
most important to know where you are drilling. Use a brad point one half
inch diameter drill bit, so it won't "walk" along the metal when you
drill. Don't use a hole saw.
It is imperative that you coat the drilled hole edges with rustproofing
before you insert the 1/2" plastic plug (coat the edge of that too). Any
place you "break" the paint coat, you want to coat with rustproofing.
Use low odor mineral spirits to thin the rustproofing. If you use just
regular mineral spirits, the smell is much worse for much longer. Spend
the extra nickel. The colder it is, the more you will have to cut it for
spray ability.
When you are finished, clean up big drips using the mineral spirits, it
won't hurt the clear coat. Wash the car with hot water, sudsy detergent
(not laundry soap), and about a quart of mineral spirits mixed in a five
gallon pail. Wash it again using just hot water and detergent. Remove
all water spots and then wax the car.
I have applied this to cars that had a bit of rust beginning on the
inside bottom of the doors and fender wells and it pretty much stopped
it from advancing. As long as you coat the metal, rusted or not, so the
air can not come in contact with it, it probably won't rust.
You can usually buy this rustproofing from your local petroleum dealer
if they carry Texaco stuff. It comes in drums (55 gal. and 110 lb.) and
30 lb. / 5 gal. pails. I think a pail is about seventy five dollars.
It will probably take you the better part of the day to do the job
right, but if you take your time and care doing this, you will come out
with a fine job that will keep your vehicle on the road rust free for
many years. Sorry I went on so long.
>> Stay informed about: '08 Tacoma -- Undercoating -- Yea or Nay ?? 
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