<mike.TakeThisOut@nosam.org> wrote in message
news:t6gcq3p37sccnnpu8s3eubuqvhuggq3e3v@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 3 Feb 2008 15:42:02 -0600, "Ray O"
> <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
>
>>
>><mike.TakeThisOut@nosam.org> wrote in message
>>news:af7cq3l8m9qiidliscp4vha7dapuogm27i@4ax.com...
>><snsipped>
>>> PS.
>>> Does it take special tools/skills to check for parasitic current
>>> drain? I do have a clamp-on voltmeter that will measure current. Not
>>> sure about sensitivity.
>>> I know the load test takes a special gadget.
>>
>>You will need an ammeter with the capacity to read at least 1 amp to
>>measure
>>parasitic current drain. Make sure all lights and accessories are off,
>>hook
>>up the ammeter in series between the positive battery clamp and positive
>>battery post and see how many milliamps are being drawn. You should see
>>current draw drop after it has been sitting for around 5 minutes.
>>
>>You can use your bolt meter to measure battery voltage. When fully
>>charged,
>>a good battery will read something like 13.7 volts.
>
> Two different digital volt meters same brand (el cheepo HF brand) read
> 12.92 v and 12.90 v
> A scale reading volt meter reads about 14 volts.
For home automotive use, the cheapo brand is good enough. I paid around $20
for a cheapo Radio Shack digital meter around 30 years ago and the stupid
thing keeps plugging along. I would like a fancy Fluke meter, but it is a
little hard to justify since the Radio Shack meter has met my needs all this
time.
The analog meter can get out of calibration more easily than a digital one
because it has moving parts. My guess is that the digital ones are correct.
>
> My amp meter works great on AC circuits but has no DCA setting in
> spite of the instructions (again).
>
> Busted my old specific gravity tester - to get a new one - they used
> to be cheap.
>
> Not sure if anything can be concluded from the above?
12.9 volts is a tad low for a fully charged battery. The battery is
probably good enough to work if the car is started every day, but if it sits
for a few days, the voltage drops low enough to cause problems.
I think it is worth taking to the dealer for a check.
>
> I would love to have a 'charge - discharge' gage on my instrument
> panel. My GM did not even have a temp gage - only a flag that would
> pop out of the hood if the engine was blown.
That wasn't a flag - that was a pushrod poking up through the hood
>
> What are the chance that the alternator is not charging?
The chance that the alternator is not charging is low, becuase you would
have a charge warning light if the alternator is not charging. Just for
grins, start the engine and measure voltage across the battery terminals.
At around 1,500 ~ 2,000 RPM, you should get over 14 volts. If you are not,
then the alternator is bad. If you are getting over 14 volts, the
alternator is charging.
> Would there ever be an indication - such as slow starting - that the
> battery is low?
You will get slow cranking if the battery is low.
>
> The green eye on the battery - is that just a constant color float
> rather that some sort of electrical light?
The green eye in the battery is just a specific gravity meter, and the top
ball that floats is green. It is not an electrical device so it will not be
bright or illuminated.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
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