96 Accord timing belt parts list

Just bought a used 96 Accord w/110,000 miles on it. There is no indication
the timing belt was done. I need a parts list (water pump?)on a complete
timing belt job for me to do it myself. I have never done it on an Accord
but lots of experience on 300ZX's timing belt changes .Is it better to go
Honda on these parts? Anything else I should change out while I'm in there?
Any good Honda online ordering houses?How long does the job take? Any
special tools req'd? Tips and tricks appreciated!
Thanks
Greyhound

"Grey-hound" <grey-hound@"removethis"verizon.net> wrote in message
news:Cyiwd.4519$Zn6.3247@trnddc08...
 > Just bought a used 96 Accord w/110,000 miles on it. There is no indication
 > the timing belt was done. I need a parts list (water pump?)on a complete
 > timing belt job for me to do it myself. I have never done it on an Accord
 > but lots of experience on 300ZX's timing belt changes .Is it better to go
 > Honda on these parts? Anything else I should change out while I'm in
 > there? Any good Honda online ordering houses?How long does the job take?
 > Any special tools req'd? Tips and tricks appreciated!
 > Thanks
 > Greyhound
 >
Where to start....

You can be sure the timing belt wasn't done, being sold at that mileage.

Allow all day, but there is one important preliminary you can - and probably
should - do ahead of time. The crank bolt can be anywhere between tight and
^#$%%! tight. The job flows much more smoothly if you can get that bolt
loose and retightened to the correct torque before you actually begin. To
facilitate that, if you aren't going to take it to a shop that has air tools
to break it loose, you will want to see whether the pulley (harmonic damper)
has a 50mm hex inset in it (in most '96 model engines it does). If so, a
holder is available for about $25 plus shipping from
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm" target="_blank">http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A812.htm</a> There are options,
but I found it best to take the plunge for the right tool. That and a 500
ft-lb impact driver barely got the last one loose, but with the holder you
have the option of using giant breaker bars. 3 foot breaker bars, 200 lbs
force, that should do it. Hit the bolt with penetrant before trying the
first time, and after each attempt. Can't hurt!

Once that hurdle is passed, things are more straightforward. I recommend
replacing the tensioner(s) - they are shockingly expensive, nearly $100, but
their lifespans are about the same as the belt. I'd replace the water pump.
There is a lot of controversy about that, since the Honda water pumps are
very good quality and reliable. But the thought of going through all that
again to replace a $40 part, and with the risk the water pump will seize,
kill the belt and destroy the engine - well, it keeps me doing it. I'd also
replace the front crank seal and the cam seals while everything is apart -
same rationale, but without the risk of catastrophic damage. Don't lose
sleep if you ignore the seals - they are probably fine. But you do need a
new valve cover gasket.

I go to the dealer and get genuine Honda parts for this - a modest price
premium to ensure I get the same parts that got it this far. (Ditto for
alternators and starters, but for a different reason - aftermarket units are
truly bad.)

Finally, before removing the belt, make match-marks with acrylic paint or
similar on the side of the belt at each pulley (matching the belt to the
pulley). Transfer the marks to the new belt, and use them to verify the belt
timing is exactly as you found it. I got that advice from a guru in the
Acura group (IIRC) and it saved my bacon. Those cam pulleys just don't want
to line up.

Mike<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->